QTDDTOT

whats the best way to clean my oil dipstick?
this shit is impossible to read

Try some wd40. Worked for me to degrease my bike around the front sprocket.

Are all BHPH lots scams? Planning on buying a new car in the nearish future, but I'll be paying in cash and not getting a loan. My only experience with them was from Longpost's stories

It kinda worked.
After spending about 5 minutes jacking off my dip stick it's slightly cleaner, but not a whole lot cleaner
I'm thinking I might need an acid of some kinda to do this effectively.
So if anyone knows of any acids that dissolve oil I'd love to know.

a paper towel

Im buying a 2017 kia forte s tomorrow.
Im getting it for 17,800 usd (based incentives). 0% APR and kia damn good warranty.
Ive driven every other small car under 20k, and i liked it the most.
>am i going to regret buying a kia?

If youre paying cash, and have a mechanic do an inspection its fine.

Acetone, make sure you let it dry before you put it back in.

Sounds like incomplete detonation, could be caused by lots of things. Check timing, spark plugs, cap and rotor if you have them. Also check out the throttle position sensor, had one on a Nissan that got a bunch of corrosion at the pigtail and messed up the timing.

In 5-7 years you will

If you want to get a small Korean car, get an Elantra GT or a Veloster Turbo.

nah its a 7AF, only has throttle angle sensor
i asked my dad for advice and he suggested blowing a can of intake cleaner through the engine to remove carbon on the piston crown

For a commuter for work/winter car, would I have more fun driving a 3rd gen prelude, or a 5th gen celica? Which would have better steering/handling for fudd wheel in michigan?

That should help
BG also sells a good FI service kit

Use acetone

i dont know what bg nor fi is

Is it necessary to switch to a higher weight oil when a car goes over 100k miles? My cousin told me to start using 10w40, he's a mechanic otherwise I wouldn't even ask. Been using 5w30 for every oil change but thinking of switching to 5w40

Where is my transmission fluid leading from? It's about an inch above the pan + gasket, so I don't think it's there

To be fair it didn't work as well on that because the oil is baked on the stick pretty much. My grease/oil around sprocket was just flung there.

How do you make the renesis engine reliable. Is it possible? Is it really so bad, budget irrelevant?

If you're burning oil it will help a little. Don't expect a miracle though.

You'll probably need to wash all that off and let it dry and then see where its trickling down from.

buy a 13b and do a swap or just learn how to do rebuilds on them.

well i don't really know if the amount of power it has stock is "enough" for the car. is the 13b any more reliable than a rensis? or would a piston engine be more reliable still? i;m not averse to going that way

This is after washing it off

Looks sexy to me man, just take good care of it

Then you didn't wash it that well.

It looks like that gasket has taken a shit. Just order a gasket & seal and drop the transmission and redo all the seals.

BG is the company
FI is fuel injection kit.

I won't!

You can help me big time.

I have the VW rims "Avus 2" and need new center caps. The genuine ones cost a jewish fortune. Can you recommend me cheap chink-shit that will fit?

broke german-guy here

Is it dead, or is this fixable?

Could I just order a front passenger fender online, and an aftermarket set of side skirts and call it fixed?

hey Veeky Forums. I was driving my aw11 mr2 after finally getting it it's own battery instead of borrowing from my dd and after 15 minutes or so I got 3 lights on the dash (cooling fan, charge, brake). This is supposed to mean that the alternator is not charging. Now as I immediately went home I noticed that these lights would come on momentarily before disappearing and then appearing again. Also as I looked at the battery voltage gauge it actually seemed close to as high as it would go (18V) which was odd. Today I turned it on again and the warning lights are gone but I notice that the place where a connector bolts onto the alternator gets quite hot pretty quickly as soon as I turn the car on. I don't think it's normal so I cleaned off the connecting surfaces but the heat there persists. Any idea what the issue could have been?

Voltage regulator in the alternator has gone out.
Heat is caused by the massive voltage.
Get it replaced or you can blow up a battery.

Not burning oil yet fortunately, I get a few seconds of lifter tick now and then though. Would that necessitate 10w40 or can I go ahead and use 5w40? Planning to use pennzoil ultra in the next change which is pretty much the best you can get this side of the atlantic.

Hard to say, where was the impact and does your door close fine, or are there any problems in the door frame?

Thanks for the help. I'll look into that ASAP.

What driving game has realistic handling?

is that the stuff you run through the fuel tank or is it a proper job where you gotta take the injectors out

Are there any small, cheap offroaders available in Murica? I want one.

can i check obd2 codes even with no check engine light?

brand new or used newer models? since everything is old as fuck in the recommendation list i still dont know what do in current year.

Dont
Look up swirl flaps
I was looking for a 320d too but then I drove my brothers w203 and I gave up on e46 entirely
Look for a c220 cdi
Has way more reliable engine and burns less but is a bit weaker depending on the year
The auto is indestructible manual is a 6 speed as standard so is the multi functioning steering wheel and you get lovely attention to detail I mean look at the key fob or how you dont have to hold the ignition to start the car just flip it once and car starts automatically cant burn the starter

Go for the bmw if you want to be a racer if you want an amazing car get an w203

Yes you can check them any time

Assetto corsa is the best atm
What are you looking for and for what platform

>Are there any small, cheap offroaders available in Murica? I want one.
suzuki x90

Im so tired of mercs dude I see them on every fucking corner I cant really stand older mercs at this point

There is a reason you see so many of them

Has anyone ever made a FWD rotary?

Either from a manufacturer or as a conversion done to a normal FWD car, I'm just curious if it's something people really consider.

If I got a CAI for my car should I get the long version(pic related) that gets air fed from the fender or the shorter one that terminates right in front of the coolant reservoir? Seems to me the long version would have colder air coming in.

Get something like this instead.

Why don't you simply check confused.com etc?

b-but muh mopar genuine parts

and I don't think such a setup would be possible in my car, the bonnet latch is closer to the engine than the radiator

Do you still have your OEM air intake setup?

Use that until you've first done something with the rest of the engine, like a better exhaust, an ECU reflash, cam, that sort of work.

Stock intakes are, on 99% of cars made after the 90s, cold air intakes. Most flow well enough to supply the engine with all the air they need, and putting an aftermarket intake on an otherwise stock engine is a waste of money.

i just fixed my low beams not working by swapping with the horn relay, but my horn still works, so i swapped them back and now both are working fine?

do i have the magic touch???

Thatsa new FiST money.

twingo is for fug?

ok guys here's an update;

the low beams stopped working again, previously neither the low or fogs worked which is how i figured out it was the relay, swapping with the horn relay returned the lights to normal and still let the horn work. i swapped them back, it's now stopped letting me use the low beams again, but the fogs still work. i swapped them once again and now have lights back to normal plus a working horn

so i'm leaving it like this for now, but should i worry about that relay fucking something up, or maybe making my horn sound randomly or permanently until removing it?

tl;dr light & horn relays are retarded, but functional, should i worry about retardation getting more severe?

Can octane booster be used in a carbureted car? What about other fuel additives?

So I found me a Lexus IS300. Love the way it drives but the previous owner has it straight-piped (cat-back). While I love the #nofilter 2JZ sound, this is a daily driver and I want to be able to listen to music and hear myself thinking (it has a loud as shit droning at all RPMs). I also don't want to get noise complaints from the neighbors or tickets.

Recommend me a muffler for a '01 Lexus IS300 that gives a subtle growl but isn't obnoxious. I can always install an exhaust valve if I want to switch it to go loud.

Thrush welded. Deep but not obnoxious

Should I buy an 07 Ford fusion with 150,000 miles on it?

Price?

I have the option to buy a 2017 Ecoboost, 2017 BRZ, and an ND MX-5 each for 23k all Manual.

Which one?

Is this car actually decent? or is it just a meme?

This. Been seeing em cheap, I need to be redpilled on them

How do I get a job as a pit mechanic?

Preferably in Le Mans. But anything will do.
Where do I start?

Being a mechanic is a good start

Are you?

Umm why is there a bigass gap between my axle and my rim? It's like 5mm all the way around

$3800

Google "hub centric rings"

I don't have any formal mechanic training.
But I've been wrenching on cars with my dad since I was a kid, and I still do all the work on my own cars

My spark plugs are covered in gas and black and my car is misfiring and stalling. It's carbureted. What's causing this bullshit?

Is this a gud deal or knot boiz
washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/d/2001-civic-ex-sedan/6258395468.html

Can be a mix of things.

Wrong timing setting on the distributor, and/or fuel mixture issues in the carburettor.
Get a timing light and check timing first, then adjust mixture

From what I can tell, i don't think it was impact. I had one of these before, and the door will catch the fender and tug it inwards. I'd assume I just need to replace the fender and make sure it has clearance for the door to shut, right?

Haven't bought it yet, but 1k for a vr4 with an engine tick doesnt seem too bad.

Why do American car brands change the name of their cheap economy cars every couple of years, but most jap car names like the civic, corola, etc. Have been around for decades?

Are opel astras any good?
What are some good cars I could get in eastern europe? What about seat ibiza?

Those jap cars have been pretty quality since they were introduced, while the american companies want you to forget about their older economy cars because they were mediocre.

Is it normal for cars to sit in a dealer lot for 1 and a half years? I looked up a vin for a 95 sc400 with 200k miles and it was there for that long. I could probably get it for under 2 grand, but how big of a red flag is that?

Does anyone have the full 3k civic pasta? I never got around to copying it and the ones I see are shorter

e46's are tanks in my experience have 148k on mine with no expenses but oil changes and a fuel gauge sensor going out

Does a WRX make a decent DD?

If you like paying out the ass for insurance and premium gas, sure

Speaking of Subarus, is $5500 too much for this '02 Impreza? It's automatic and has 129k miles.

Just looking for a decent daily driver.

I just want something fun and not ridiculously expensive to DD. With a manual transmission.

Have you looked at the sticky?

Sure, but it's horribly out of date and I have more than $5k to spend. $20-$25k is what I'd be comfortable with.

I drove a 2003 SER Spec V sentra. Mine was dyno'd out around 300 when I had it, and I loved the hell out of that car.

Very fun and comfy, a lot of pep, and I liked the interior if you get the red and black themed one.

Mazda 3, Mazda 6, last gen MazdaSpeed 6, Golf Gti, A used Focus St, or Civic Si and if you can afford the maintenence: 135i, 335i

I don't know anything about Mazda besides Miata memes. How do they hold up? I drive about 25k/yr, so I need something sturdy.