I bought a used car recently and I am not sure if the timing belt has been changed. So I am planning to change it myself. There are no "timing belt kits" for the engine that I can find so I will have to buy everything individually. Besides the timing belt, what other parts like gaskets and seals should I replace?
>it is a older Diesel engine with mechanical injectors if that matters
Don't worry about it until it breaks. Older engines can have the timing belt break and it's not a big deal.
The best way to go about this is to just check the timing belt for signs of wear. If it has cracks, missing teeth, then yes replace it. Otherwise just keep running the one it came with. If you tell me exactly what engine you have I can tell you if it's interference or non-interference. Most motors don't have a gasket around the timing belt cover, but while you're down there I recommend you replace cam shaft and crank shaft seals.
It's a 2LT, it's non-interference. I've heard about looking at the timing belt, but I don't quite understand how to manage that without getting to the point where it's just easy enough to replace it.
Worst advice ive ever read on this board.
>doesnt know the parts required to change a timing belt
>plans on doing it
user, take it to a mechanic.
why does interference and non-interference matter?
If its an interference engine and the timing belt breaks, a piston could smash into an open valve.
As far as parts to replace, belt tensioner, roller guides and possibly the water pump, if applicable to your engine as some are timing belt driven.
B8
>it is a older Diesel engine
>it's non-interference
How common is this? I would have thought they needed to be interference to get enough compression.
I'd still change it. Beats having to get it towed when you least expect it.
I mean, good advice.
Having said that, I changed out a crankshaft with no prior knowledge and a manual.
>And $800 in parts, tools and boxes of beer for borrowing engine crane
>How common is this?
Very common.
You could not be more wrong. All L series Toyota diesels are interference. Miss a tooth on the belt and you'll drop a valve. You need :
Belt (your pick but gates or Bosch or something)
Idler bearing and bolt (koyo)
Tensioner bearing and assembly (koyo)
Would recommend water pump (aisin)
Dust cover seal depending on the condition of yours.
Easy job, a little fiddly with lining up the belt, especially if the motor is in the bay, use a breaker bar on the crank bolt if you need to hold it steady. The harmonic balancer will be a cunt to get off if it hasn't been done in a while, get some heavy duty penetrant to soak overnight and a rubber mallet, or a puller of some sort.
Definitely a job worth doing if you want to keep the engine.
Also, hot tip: if you're after an upgrade look for a Toyota 5l 3.0litre diesel and put an aftermarket turbo kit on it. You could transplant your turbo setup form the 2lt but would probably be too small for the displacement. Also keep the boost compensator from the 2lt fuel pump and get someone to put it on the 5l pump. All l-series diesels are basically identical externally so it will be a straight bolt up with your engine mounts and bellhousing.
What car is it in? 4runner, surf, hilux and hiace are the only trucks that had the 2lt I think.
Any q's let me know, I rebuilt my 3l about 5 months ago so pretty fresh in the mind.
Buy the penetrant though!!!
3k civic
It's a Surf. The problem I keep running into is it's a first generation 2LT that is different than the 2LTs made past 1989 and the majority of parts places don't differentiate between the first generation and the second generation.
>just keep running the one it came with.
This. Timing belt failures are incredibly rare. More damage is done by retards trying to replace it.
What car is good to take your own car?
What age is good to take your own car?
El Camino
Worst car ever made.
Best truck ever made you mean.