/hg/ 本田

for accord. i only have front discs and the fact i have shitty, screeching, dusty, fading and rotor eating economy pads and rotor makes me want to upgrade. That and i'll have the braking power like a 4 disc

oh yeah and stoptech pad+rotor isnt bad if you're a sub 150hp box riight?

That badge is god damn beautiful

Most likely. You could get away with that on a higher power car depending on how big the stock rotors are.

>wont work edition

My 2008 Accord has a pulsing brake problem that feels like it's coming from the rear passenger side. Slight grinding noise can be heard if braking for longer than a few seconds.

No ABS lights or anything. Pads and rotors look fine; almost new even. Took it to someone more knowledgeable than me that specializes in wheels and tires and they saw no obvious defects.

Not a big deal. Just really annoying to pulse to a stop all the time.

I'm also having a brake situation. I tried tightening my parking brake because it felt a little loose and now my rear driver brake is screeching even if I tighten or loosen it any more. Pretty annoying.

if youre the guy from before who had stoptech, assuming both rotor and pads, how is the dust and screeching levels?

I'd assume you have rear discs? Internal drum?

I'm Disks

I'm probably not the guy you're thinking of. My stock rotors were fine so I'm only running pads. As far as squeaking/screeching they've been as quiet as the stock pads save for when it's particularly cold out. Dust, however, is more of an issue. Not the dustiest pads by far, but your wheels are going to get dirty faster.

I just wanted to take off my bumper to make it easier, to buff out some minor paint transfer, and realign it after an accident.

I swear one day iron oxide will drive me to drink again.

The Big Brother toppers will be ready for use, Wednesday.

I'm already working on becoming manager.

I heard about those. How do the other drivers feel about them?

>tfw I never have a topper because other drivers hoard them or stole them when they quit

Everybody in the store hates the idea that you can't do this or you can't do that and if you do do it, you'll get points taken away or you'll get terminated for going 20 mph or over.

The toppers have internal batteries and will be cordless, so you won't have to plug it to your car.

Anybody who steals one will be a dumbass because it will have a tracker.

Geez guess I'll go to Domino's if I end up leaving Pizza Hut. Not that I'm a habitual speeder, but it would be annoying to be criticized on my driving. My car being pretty stiff would probably make those sensors go crazy.

Picked up the $35 media blaster from Hazard Fraught tools the other day and have started refinishing my brake calipers. So far I've blasted everything and powder coated the brackets but not the actual calipers yet (using the Hazard Fraught powder coat kit). This is so much easier than I thought it would be but also tedious as hell since I'm baking the pieces one by one in a toaster oven.

Brembo is fine for street use. Willwood is good for street and race track

my stoptechs were quiet/low dust. the hawks are pretty loud and make a lot of dust

besides the engine, are there any differences between EK3 and EK4?
i was thinking about getting either one (alternativly i was also considering EJ6) and just using it as a daily for some time and later change it into my project car
so if i was to swap/rebuild the engine in the future, im not sure if there would be any benefits that ek4 would have over ek3

should've also mentioned that for some reason em2 is suprisingly cheap in my shithole but im not sure whats the general opinion about it

yo /hg/
bought an ebay turbo for my b20

what else do i need
do i need to replace my intake mani if its stock

>what else do i need
A new engine for when the turbo blows up.

The EM2 often gets a bad rep for some reason, still don't know why.

Out of the box, an EK or EJ will out-turn an EM2, but the EM2 can be made to handle much better than the EK/EJ due to its independent rear suspension. The D17 isn't very good, 115 when new, and goes to 7500 ish. The V-TEC D17 makes 130 when new, and is a much better option. Notice I said 'when new', chances are the engine has been beat up by previous owners, the D17s would be making less than advertised, and I think mine has been beat below the 100hp mark. The best engine would be to swap a K in it, it's a well documented swap with lots of aftermarket available to help you.

The 5SP transmission is God-tier like all Hondas, but the automatics all have a flaw where they die after 100,000km.

A very neglected Honda, the EM2 has some sporting potential behind it that nobody seems to notice. A set of Tiens should make it very nimble.

Almost forgot, CHECK THE FUCKING ALTERNATOR BEFORE YOU BUY

Some dipshit in the factory thought that the alternator bolts should be the ground, and if it isn't tightened enough, it will short, frying both your alternator and your ECM.

You need bigger fuel injectors

okey, thanks for the info
europoor here so problem with automatics isnt relevant to me
for the swap i was thinking about either h22 or k20, i know that the first one is less popular, but i know someone who did it and he's really satisfied with it
my main problem is deciding between EK3-4//EJ6/EM2 tho
all of them seem to fit my requirement of being a daily shitbox for some time and being a good project car later
although EK is getting harder and harder to find stock or atleast close to it

I'd tell you to get the EK hatch, but that's only because I want one as well.

My EM2 is at 301515km now, and the only reason it has to be fixed is because someone left it in a field for 6 years. They're champs, you really gotta try to kill them.

i'll probably try to get the EK, but other options are really tempting too

also 1 thing i should correct from , is that EK4 is almost impossible to find stock, but EK3 as econobox is often just as it came out of factory, thats why I came here to ask about its diffrence from EK4 and how good would it be as a base for project.

I see no difference between the EK3 and EK4, maybe engine, but chassis's the same.

I can not get over how much tail this car is pulling. I drove a Chevy 1500 for the past 4 years and had a 2 year drought but I get this Civic a month and a half ago for workand I've already gotten
>Girl while on a business trip
>Girl I met at a Captain D's
It's like they see the car and just want to jump my bones. I went to see my friends baby yesterday, and even his girlfriend and her sister were rubbing the fenders and talking about how nice it looked. I should have bought one of these years ago

Great, now rice it (tastefully).

Nice gas prices, i'm paying like 2.69 for 87 octane.

PussyMeme.jpg

anybody have this problem i was changing my stereo and replacing fuses shit job from the guy i bought it from and now my windows stopped working the motors work if i give them power straight from the battery its a 94 del sol

which one of these should I buy?

dallas.craigslist.org/search/cto?query=accord&min_price=4500&max_price=6200&auto_title_status=1

Id go with the white '08 Accord if you have that much cash.

Always amazes me how cheap cars are in america.
In the Caribbean we pa at least 3 times these prices (although to be fair they're imported all the way from Japan since RHD is preferred).

PFFFFFFT

Does my idle sound okay?

fuck the link
webmshare.com/GGv5A

giving it some gas
webmshare.com/Oy3BP

Doesn't sound too bad to me. Maybe some belt squeal in the second video? Probably just needs more tension.

Both Idle and rev it with the camera in the engine bay.

Yeah the belt deflection was a little loose when i got it, it was garaged. Is that also the clicky sound in the rev?
will do tomorrow

>Is that also the clicky sound in the rev?
Maybe. Or your exhaust has a hole in it somewhere between the manifold and the muffler.

Check your window motor fuse?

dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/d/2007-honda-accord-se/6247738244.html

I'm still considering selling both my '91 Miata and '08 civic lx to buy pic related as a full time daily for summer and winter in New England.

How bad of an idea is this? Also yes I do plan on driving it all the back to Connecticut from California.

Should be good. Those VX's were the kings of MPG in its time and are still a top choice for Ecomodders.

welrp, brought the fa5 home today. Spent a pretty good chunk of my evening breaking in the new clutch. Very first thing I noticed was how little resistance there is in the clutch pedal now - at first I thought they drained the line for some reason and forgot to refill it. Even though it's the exact same clutch kit that I was running before, the way it's set up now is so flawless it makes me think that ever since I bought the car the adjustment was completely fucked up and there wasn't enough grease in the places it needed to be. That and the crappy oem cmc.

sucks seeing all that money disappear, but I feel like the clutch has been this reoccurring problem I never fully addressed.Whenever I had a problem with it I would just go out, buy another crap cmc and some brake fluid. Then after two hours of smashing up my hands, I'd fiddle with the pedal adjustment and wait for everything to fail again. Upgrading the cmc, clutch line, slave cylinder, replacing the clutch kit with a new one, and having everything done by professionals feels like the perfect storm for success.If it all holds up this whole thing will have been totally worth it. Unfortunately had to cover the costs with the funds i set aside for completing the engine build. I have about $400 left to spend on engine shit, which is probably enough considering I've already bought all the parts. Just need to be extra careful when I do the wrenching and not make any expensive mistakes.

If you dont mind sharing, roughly how much did everything end up costing in the end?

Also you should just be glad that your car is actually running and driving nice now. Vtak and no clutch issues

blog: Think i might just pay nissan to do timing belt and figure out the lack of boost on the 300zx. Don't really have the time. Especially since I need to fix the white CRX's engine harness, make the new supra harness, finish the engine for the red CRX, and whatever else needs to be done.

Has anyone ever paid someone to do a timing belt? I never use a mechanic so I have no idea

Figured it why my gauges were freaking out. My ignition switch contacts were bad. Was going to the store about an hour ago and the car just cut out on me while going WOT. Had to start the car then very quickly move the key to a very specific spot to keep it running. Grabbed some fine grit sandpaper and went to town on all the contacts until it worked properly. Took a ton of sanding but now I don't need to find a replacement switch.

yeah i was thinking that too. my heat shield has gotten floppy and i was wondering how i could fix that up, it's rusted to shit

good to hear the clutch is silk
hows the bite feel?

>How bad of an idea is this? Also yes I do plan on driving it all the back to Connecticut from California.
For any particular reason?

Sell the gay ass miata and buy the EG, keep the LX.

word. I plan on keeping to stock if I do get it.

because the car is located in California and I live Connecticut.

Also I can't find a clean eg hatch for a reasonable price.

I'm not having 2 honda's lol and the point of getting that car is to scale down as i dont really have space for 2 cars at the moment. My Miata is a sweet and fun fucking car.

>Also I can't find a clean eg hatch for a reasonable price.

Can't find one near me I should add.

Great news, the gauge in my Civ' was busted! I threw parts at it, and the problem was solved.

New problem though, I lost 20,000km between the gauges, is there any way to bump it back up?

>drop Zed off for roof/hatch to be painted
>shop expressed concern about hatch and windshield
>deep grooves between body and glass may be hard to buff after respray
>tell them I'd be happy to color match the original color if it's too difficult

Color is now anybody's guess.

Very bad. At least keep one off your current cars if you're gonna buy that.

colour will now be a bright orange, as per british high visibility regulations

You have to open it up and manually roll it forward

It's digital

Miata is not DD'able esp in the winter and I don't want 2 honda's.

>Miata
>Not DD-able in the winter
There's some guy around here who DDs an NB, all year 'round.

Call your Honda dealer to do it for you or a shop that can do it for you.

I'm not saying Miatas are not DD'able in the winter

But I have an NA miata, second the amount of salt that is used on the roads here deters me from even thinking about DD'ing a 25 year old car that easily rusts.

I live in Connecticut. My Miata has is mildly built for autox/track day. No ac/heat, no powersteering and its got absolutely no rust on it. No chance I would drive this thing in the winter. I probably would if I had a bone stock NB, NC, or ND Miata.

Might just try to do it myself, don't wanna go to Honda again so soon
>salt
Understandable. Get the Civ' and a good pressure washer while you're at it.

ahh, someone else who suffers from salted roads
do you wash the underside or nah?

anyway back 2 Hondas. i found this on CL a while back but the seller never left any contact information. no email no phone number, nothing! I totally would've scooped it up

Yeah I'll think about it

well I mean I guess even though I don't drive it when there is salt on the roads. it just stays in my garage for the winter.

fucking amazing find
better go full cia and grab that shit

Hello /hg/

I've come across a stock low mileage (66k) 89 CRX auto for a good ass price. Is there any reason not to buy it? Are parts easy enough to come by, etc?

forgot the picture

>4grand
>auto
The old age will be apparent when you're looking for parts

So b/o/ys what color should I paint my creamy almond wagon's wheels?

>If you dont mind sharing, roughly how much did everything end up costing in the end?

a lot

it's pretty grabby, but very driveable

I keep leaning toward white.

tfw every time it rains I shit the bed wondering if I rolled the windows all the way up properly.
I need wind deflectors/visors

Same.

Same.

Is this worth checking out? I've always loved these Preludes, and this seems like a really clean example which is rare around here. It'll be my daily year round so it will see snow. The only downside to me about it is that it's a Honda which might attract attention from the police, and possibly thieves, and it doesn't have the digital dash which I love.

Is that bad for low miles? Also I don't really care about manual, I live in a crowded city of the side of a mountain

Gold

It's ricey but if that's fine with you, you should be fine.

Do you even know what rice really looks like?

Only thing I see is that it looks too low.

oh my god

PS i caught the mouse

>PS i caught the mouse
Kill or release?
KILL OR RELEASE??

Ricey as in not 100% stock

That's pretty expensive for a 28 year old honda