Do I really have to warm up my 2017 STI for 3 minutes before I drive away? And keep it out of boost under 3...

Do I really have to warm up my 2017 STI for 3 minutes before I drive away? And keep it out of boost under 3,000 rpm for 10 minutes?

And when I get home, do I really have to let it cool down for a full minute?

Or- have I been meme'd?

take a few hits of the vape to pass the time

probably not. you can start it and drive immediately, just don't go WOT until you reach ideal operating temps.

Considering it's a 20 year old engine design, Probably. I doubt Subaru has into liquid cooled turbo's yet.

Sounds like a rotary engine.

I have to smoke regular cigarettes because for some reason I can't vape without coughing like an idiot

lmao

>I can't vape without coughing like an idiot
Wow, what levels of nicotine are you running with your juice?

>buying an sti
kys.

Are you racing it? If not, then no.

Let the engine warm up for one minute, until it reaches normal temp keep rpm under 4k

yes it doesn't hurt.
You can drive off immediately tho, it helps engine warm up faster.
And unless you ran the engine hard, you can propably skip the cooldown.
If you ran it hard, bonnet open, engine running let it idle for 5 or so mins

Compared to the Focus RS, according to Car and Driver:

>STI is faster to 100mph by 1.3 seconds
>STI is faster to 130mph by 2.3 seconds
>STI is .1 seconds faster through the 1/4 mile

What else is there to buy if you want a "rally car" for the road?

Reminder that he STI hate meme on Veeky Forums is probably one of the most unfounded tropes ever to exist here.

I also can't seem to smoke weed without coughing and embarrassing myself. Cigarettes are for some reason, the only thing that doesn't make me a cringe generation unit in front of others.

consensus seems to do it anyways just to be safe.

Crazy when the RS has 50 more hp too

stop vaping Faggotron Dick Diabetes Ultra Sweet Juice 9000 blends

Subaru's stopped being "rally cars" a long time ago. They're basically pavement only cars now. They'd last 2 minutes on a rally stage. They're also 800lbs heavier than a rally car.

because your coils are too hot or not enough juice.

You're better off waiting for the 2020 model that hopefully gets a new engine. The new sti offers pretty much the same old shit and hasn't evolved to keep up with the competition. It does still have some great features, but it still isn't amazing anymore. Hell, I'm trading my 2016 in for something else next month.

IIRC 2015+ STIs dyno 290 or so at the wheel. Rule of thumb for AWD drivetrain HP loss says they're probably significantly underrated and pushing 350 at the crank.

>what else is there if you want a rally car for the road
nothing. grow the fuck up. these are shitty awd econoboxes with mediocre interiors and no redeeming features. 35k could've gotten you a used cayman s. and if you need 4 doors you should just buy a v6 accord.

>rally car
Please stop this. If you took a modern day STI to a rally track, it would be totalled within an 10 minutes or less.

Is the gearing of an STI really short? I drove a friend's 2017 and it was bizarre. You'd hit the gas, nothing would happen until the boost kicked in, and then you'd WHOOSH right up the redline faster than I could take my foot of the gas. I feel like I rowed through three gears just getting to about 50mph.

It sounds like to me you just shouldn't smoke at all. If you need a nicotine fix, you might as well chew nic gum. Chew will give you a nice buzz, but chewing is about 2x as worst as smoking cigarettes.

>V6 accord
Kill you are self

The throttle map is weird, gets you something like 90% throttle with the pedal 40% depressed.

Why would you? I have a beat to shit, fucked up 92 Bronco that stalls if you give it too little gas in reverse and I only have to let it warm up for about 1min

Look guys I just wanted to feel as close as I could to Colin McRae while still having a bumper to bumper warranty and a big wing.

Absurdly short. 3,000rpm is only like 40km/h in second. It makes driving in traffic absolutely awful.

This is only really true in Sport # mode. Pic related, it's the throttle mappings you can select using SI drive selector in the STI. The one selected in the picture is the default, and as you can see (it's pretty linear, the next one up is Sport and the most aggressive one is Sport #. It basically gives you 100% power if you just look at the gas pedal.

I drive in regular mode because I'm not talented enough not to rev to 5000 before letting off the clutch in the aggressive modes.

Oops, forgot the picture.

what?
3k rpm for me in second is like 30kph and I daily my car fine????

Oh its another one of those "manuals are bad for traffic because I have to use a my other foot and that confuses my poor american brain" memes

I taught myself to drive stick in this car, even on Intelligent the throttle maps were a harsh mistress

Americans don't use the metricuck system, only freedom units

The big numbers are for us

Fucking hell if you're at 30km/h in 2nd I shudder to think what rpm's you're turning and mpg's you're getting on the highway.

I'm Canadian desu

Ha, me too. I couldn't reverse consistently without stalling for a few weeks for some reason. I'm actually still trying to figure out how to shift from first to second smoothly.

The biggest thing was trying to figure out why the car felt like an entirely different car when the AC was on

Oh shit, yeah we had it Sport mode. First time I drove that car I hit the rev limiter in the first three gears. Made me really uncomfortable for some reason.

The gearing seemed even shorter than my Miata, and that thing would rev out to 5K in top gear on the highway. Maybe it was because the Miata wouldn't hit 300HP of boost if you sneezed on the gas.

Of course now I have a Mustang and I don't have the leave 1st until I'm doing 40.

At 125km/h I'm at around 3100 rpm in 6th.

I get about 12l/100km with 80% highway. Probably about 500km per tank which really slaps your nuts when you have to put 94.

Ughhh. That's why I don't buy into the "short gearing to get to 60 quick" memes.

I drive a 04 and I treat it like a princess. Always wait 2 min before and after a drive and never hit boost before 10 min of driving. There's no way you need to do this for a 2017 but I would recommend it.

tips for owning a turbo charged car, and keeping it in one piece.

1. turn the key to on for one second to let the fuel pump prime, then crank. this allows the fuel lines to come to pressure
2. allow the car to sit for 10-20 seconds before setting off. this allows oil to get to all the nooks and crannies of your engine, plus to the turbo. it doesn't have to be at operating temperature, but when the car is turned off, the oil settles into the oil pan.
3. after setting off, stay out of boost until the engine comes to temperature. this keeps all unnecessary load off the rotating assembly and the turbocharger
4. when you get to where you're going, and it's time to turn the car off. let the car sit for about 10-20 seconds before turning off the car. this allows fresh(ish) oil to bathe the turbo.
5. depending on your driving style, you'll want to change the oil anywhere from 3000 miles (very spirited) to 7000 miles (sunday driver). stick with manufacturers OEM suggestion

if you follow these tips, you won't have any problems

Fucking hell and you wonder why America prefers 300hp out of a "big" V8.

>warm it up for 3 minutes
My retard flat mate does this in his r33 because he saw our other mate with an FD doing it
>most wear on the engine is on startup and cold running
>no load on idle so warms up slower
>car runs rich to stay alive
>combined with high oil viscosity and no oil in top of engine
>excess fuel washes lubrication off of the cylinder walls
>further increased wear
>carbon build up in engine and exhaust

Just start the car, put your belt on, and drive off sedately. The load on the car won't cause any more wear than idle, but will warm it up faster and minimise the fuel washing issue.

These same problems occur in rotaries, simply the fact that the engine cannot safely operate at low temps mitigates this

>What else is there to buy if you want a "rally car" for the road?
an evo 3-8

you don't need to do any of those except staying off the boost until the engine is warm and taking care of the oil. that is, if your engine isn't a fragile heap of shit with a crap turbo on it.

OP just let the cold start do its thing and then drive off. Cold start only takes a minute and a half tops.
How do you know when the cold start is finished you might ask?
>When your revs drop to idle RPM
IE: My car cold starts at 1100 rpm and drops to 600, but other cars idle at 800rpm and cold start at an even higher rpm.
If the weather is warm ignore it.
If you live in texas or florida consider getting a cold start delete.
>Pro tip: You think car companies are being honest with you when they say drive it immediately? They want ur shit to break in 5 years so you buy another 1 Hence the BMW 2 year oil changes.

that's blatantly false dear

Where did OP say he rawdogged a hooker?

This is the most Subaru thing I have read in a while

My 21 year old STI has a liquid cooled turbo.

They've always had liquid cooled turbos, in fact the 05ish LGTs are known for shitting out turbos because the oil feed line for the turbo has a filter in it and it likes to clog.

Dont be a melt. Just drive your shitty boxer engine untill it blows and buy an evo

And the answer your looking for is ........ No just dont go ham on the throttle . its a engine just like every other so treat it as such

Broken engine or broken transmission, both are bad

Just a quick reminder that you are not a real enthusiast unless you at one point have owned an STI.