Are cheap eBay cold air intakes worth it? Most people say as long as you get a good filter it will be fine

Are cheap eBay cold air intakes worth it? Most people say as long as you get a good filter it will be fine.

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act like a wasteman das not me

What about K&N ones?

I did a snorkus delete on my WRX so now the ram air intake isn't on. Is it still not worth it? I have no problem wasting 45 bucks for my engine bay to look cooler either.

The real issue is shielding the filter from the engine bay heat. Do this properly and CAI will work. Name brand intakes have shields but are still kinda generic. You can build one yourself.

that's a hot air intake. all of these intakes are a meme.

Honestly all I want to know is will it be better for looks/sound/performance than having just a hole right now?

what do you mean just having a hole? you don't have a filter or ducting connected to your intake...?

Ya its just for looks. Go for it. But god help you if you start throwing hp gain numbers.

Since the snorkus which went from the ram air intake to the filter there is just a hole there.

>Are cheap eBay cold air intakes worth it?

Yes. It's a piece of bent metal pipe with a filter on the end. There is no need to spend $400 for a piece of bent metal pipe when you can spend $20 on a piece of bent metal pipe. It's just a piece of bent metal pipe. Functionally, they are all exactly alike.

Oiled cotton air filters cost almost nothing to make. There is no need to spend $70 on an oiled cotton air filter when you can spend $10 on an oiled cotton air filter. Functionally, they are all exactly alike.

They are a meme and usually cause a loss in hp, stock air intakes are often much better, especially on a german car

K&N Filter: +20HP
Cold air intake: +10HP
Aluminum Valve Covers: +35HP
Magnaflow exhaust tip: +20HP

>looks cool sounds cool
Good enough for me :^)

>Aluminum Valve Covers: +35HP
you forgot the -15lbs for weight savings

>Are cheap eBay cold air intakes worth it?
only 4 inch venturis on the d16 series engines.

Ehhh even then it depends.

Is there an opening under there that feeds cool air to the sealed box? If not, then you are basically just making the engines job harder by having a sealed section that hot air can't get to.
The best intake setups include a filter box (flat or cone) with piping routed towards the front of the car to an opening, for example just in front of the radiator or to a grille on the front bar so that actual cold air from outside the engine bay is sucked in. Going further from that you can easily make it ram air style intake where at highway speeds you might get slight pressure

what type of foam should I use to insulate the metal tubing on my SRI? I know what it looks like but I don't know what it's called.

Should I even go ahead with doing this?

>removed radio dials
-100lbs

Randomly slapping on bolt-on modifications to a car is retarded and if it nets you any kind of improvement it's pure dumb luck. Engines aren't horsepower dispensers. You really have to sit down and do the engineering and if you want a real performance gain that often means pulling your engine and rebuilding it from the ground up with all of the desired specifications already worked out.

More air=more fuel that can be burned=more power

This isn't rocket science.

Most cars have intake openings from the fender or front. Some make their own openings from removed headlights and such. Interesting enough my car has an opening from the fender and grill, but the K&N CAI only takes from the fender. Going to a Dyno this Saturday to test if it's a meme or not.

cold air vs short ram

Hot air or short Rams are just to make your engine more noisy.

really? Bought the car with that already on it. Is it bad in anyway?

Yeah it's not good in any real way. You need some tubing to smooth and straighten out the air. Or else it enters the cylinders all turbulent.

youtube.com/watch?v=odq6_5oCP9c

>cold air intake
>made of metal
>installed inside of an engine bay, inches from the exhaust manifold and behind the radiator

More like hot air intakes, you mean.

You people who think these things work failed 12th grade Physics. PV=nRT. As Temperature goes up, Volume goes down.

Intakes should be made of plastic or some other non-thermally conducting material. Plus, most factory intakes actually draw their air from directly behind the bumper, not under the hood of the car after the air passes through the condenser and radiator, and then right by the exhaust manifold(s).

>As Temperature goes up, Volume goes down.
Uh, that's not what the formula in your post says.

Retard alert.

no u

You're wrong. Volume and pressure both increase with temperature.

It's not even the ideal gas law at this point. Gay-Lussac's law.

>tfw I'm 26 and I still remember 10th grade chemistry, but I can't remember what I ate for lunch yesterday

When temperature goes up, you're not changing the volume, so to match you need to increase the pressure.

Um, no sweetie, that would be you.

Everything in the formula you posted is multiplicative. If the value for T increases, as in the temperature going up, then one of the values on the left half of the equation must also increase in order for the math to remain accurate, as shown by the equal sign in the middle. So, either pressure or volume would increase when temperature increases.

My car was dealer modified to take air from right below the hood opening. They're ordered that way because my 3rd world country floods a lot and hydro-locking was common.

man I fucking HATE low end rpm grunt! If only there was SOMETHING for me to absolutely DESTROY my low end in a crap trade for more high end power!

>Um, no sweetie, that would be you.

Virgin detected

>Are cheap eBay cold air intakes worth it?

The intake is in the engine compartment. Since you can see the filter when the hood is raised, there is going to be an air gap between the filter and the hood. All that hot air will go in. Another thing is that the metal pipe is exposed to the hot engine compartment. SInce it is close to other hot metal parts, it picks up the heat especially once the car starts moving and the hot air swirls around.

The OEM airbox is always cold air. And if you notice, they use plastic, composite, and rubber air tubes for better insulation against heat raising the temperature of the intake air. The OEM tube cross section is also larger than the ebay metal tube.

These ebay things are warm or hot air intakes. They are not cold air intakes.

...

>metal inlet hose
>ever

if trips faggot confirmed

By using metal, they turned the cool air intake into a hot air intake. Those sellers must know they are just selling hope and hype. The only reason there is more air is because their filters let through larger micron particles than the OEM HEPA or 3rd party HEPA filters from Fram.

if you take care of it like most people take care of their cars, no

Oil type filters require frequent cleaning and re-oiling. Even K&N is too optimistic about intervals, but they are selling meme filters and air flow volume. They are not selling filtration efficiency or filtration quality.

My standard air filter is mounted on top of the valve cover. By the end of a drive it is almost too hot to touch, is this better than having the air intake relocated to a cooler part of the engine bay?

That's assuming that the car isn't getting enough air to begin with. The ECU will prioritize maintaining the 14.7:1 stoichiometric ratio over everything else. But at the same time the wrong air intake flowing into the wrong intake manifold can cause irregular airflow. It's more complicated than just bolting on shit you bought on ebay. There's a lot of fluid dynamics to consider. Air encountering a wider path will also move slower. So you need to also have the right amount of vacuum to move the air charge. If you honestly believe changing the air intake hose alone is going to lead to a quantifiable increase in horsepower you need to go back to school.

not really
at least get a plastic one that doesn't transfer heat like a motherfucker

tldr thread replies, but just in case it hasn't been said - cold air intakes usually increase inlet air temp and NVH. Unless you have direct numerical proof (dyno charts) that said part increases HP/lowers IAT vs stock don't waste your money

Also if you have a NA engine an are expecting significant HP gains from a CAI or bolt ons in general you are mistaken. Usually a CAI is worthless without an accompanist tune, even more often they decrease power from higher IAT

>cold air intakes
That's the WRONG NAME for them. They do not have cold air intake. That is an engine compartment hot air intake as shown in the picture.

No, expect some small negative results when testing ifbyou did not bother to tune the ECU.
Spend your money elsewhere, get rich

if stock intake is taking too much space and is a pain to work around, yes.