Is the oil that dealers use good or should I provide them with "quality" name brand shit?

Is the oil that dealers use good or should I provide them with "quality" name brand shit?

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they use their own shit conventional or synthetic

So even Mobil one or penzoil whatever the fuck is better?

You can ask to see what they have you social autist.

Just use whatever the manual tells you, OP.

I did a bit of looking, most dealers don't seem to use name brand oils
I'm not asking about types or viscosity, I'm wondering if "non brand" dealer oil is shit or if I should provide "quality" oil

you should change your own oil using only the best oil available at your local advance auto parts retailer friend... german oil made in germany called pentosin. i put 5w40 in my civic and get 35.4mpg avg

The only way to know is to ask to get a fresh sample of it and send it in to Blackstone Labs to have it analysed. That's a lot of autism and $28+shipping to find out.

Dealer oil is made thick on purpose so that it doesn't leak in used cars

When getting car serviced at dealer would you provide better oil or just let them use their shit?

Either do your own oil or accept whatever they put in it because you're a cuck. If you bring your own oil the techs will laugh at you, and one will keep the jug and give you the dealer stuff.

They use the cheapest oil they can get in those 50 gallon drums.
If you take full synthetic for your own car, watch the tech do the oil change. They like to put in cheap stuff and keep the synthetic
>t. Dealerfag

I don't have tools or time to do my own oil, you ask for empty bottles back to make sure they use your shit
I'd ask for empty bottles back, what do you mean watch the tech do the oil change am I even allowed to?

Both mobil1 and pennzoil are shit but I perfer mobil1 because I've been using it in shit forever. If you cared about your engine you would buy redline and change it every interval.

i used to work at small shop, we got bulk 5w30 in our 1000L tank from a tanker truck and a bulk 80L barrel of 5w-20. synthetics and basic 15w-40 for muscle cars we ordered the regular 4.5L jugs you get at Wal-Mart. or people could bring their own oil and we would use it we didnt care

youre a cuck if you worked at a place or do work at a place that does that shit

one of the reasons i quit being a mechanic was i couldnt fucking stand waiters, we would have waiters for a transmission swap even for hours on end. our boss would bitch us out to hurry when there was a waiter. when waiters wandered in the back was worse because as soon as they saw a sledgehammer come out to knock off a seized wheel you could see their bloodpressure fucking double

How about motul? Shits expensive

>oil filter wrench
>14 mm or US equivalent wrench
>pan
You don't even need a funnel if you don't want one. I did it for the first time a couple of weeks ago and it was dummy easy, and my car still runs.

It takes like 30 minutes if your slow, just make sure you get the right wrenches.

just get pentosin

all oil is pretty much the same except Mobil 1 has been using less zinc recently so i wouldnt exactly run it in a old muscle car. but otherwise its the same shit. i buy the 20L buckets of regular 5w-30 for my old vehicles from walmart for $45 and its apparently rebadged Mobil 1 oil

out of nearly 10 years in the trade i saw nothing bad come out of whatever brand of oil people used, only people that used the Fram filters with the cardboard anti drainback that made a mess

You can't really blame those waiters though fucking dealers take too many appointments it shouldn't take 2 hours for a basic oil change tire rotation and shit

I only know about what Honda dealers use, but their oil is synthetic blend. I personally prefer full synthetic, so I use Castrol Edge, which I have had Blackstone Labs test and it worked well, metal content was well within acceptable levels, and they said I can go 5k on it.

i have 5 vehicles from trucks to slammed cars and change literally most of my families and friends oil, i can do all of them in max 20 minutes even in -30c weather. just get a shitty beginners ratchet and socket set from Walmart, a sealable drain pan and a funnel. $30 tops.

pentosin is the only oil i've never seen a motor burn or lose oil except a toyota with a leaky oil pan gasket. i put it in a nissan vq, motor loves it, put in ej25 never burned a drop, now in a civic 2.0 kc or whatever

dealers i cant speak for, i worked at a small shop and i could do a oil change and tire rotation in 30 minutes if that. dealers dogfuck so much stuff i declined every offer i got to work for any of them.

pentosin 5w40 is the only one i use too

Is rotella t6 a meme?

What sort of dealer are we talking about??

Used to work at mercedes and they had massive wall mounted drums of the latest MB 137.xx whatever is approved for all MB cars. All cars that came in got that oil. The oil they used had to meet some pretty stringent requirements so definitely wasn't bad oil but I don't know whether it was the correct oil for every car.

I know that any mercedes, BMW, audi or VW does this. there would be exceptions, AMG, M, S or R models likely would have specific oils. Can't imagine BMW techs pouring 0w30 into an e46 M3 when it calls for 10w60 developed specificlly for that engine.

That's part of the reason I've been using redline because it has over double the zinc in most cases. Shits too fucking exprensive though.

Subaru dealer

Zinc is a Boomer myth it has no gains after a certain point

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Forgot link

zinc is hardly useful in modern vehicles though. i have owned/own multiple old Toyota and Nissans and have had no issues with regular oil even. zinc was more needed for 50s/60s muscle cars

it was actually needed for boomer cars, Amsoil has a oil that specifically still has high zinc content for old American muscle or you can get zinc additive. i used to work on some 40s-70s American muscle and we just used basic shitty Napa oil no issues albeit those cars saw like 2000km a year if that

Check my link yo

Old engines needed it for their bearings. Some high performance parts recommends it too. But I agree for the most part. It's not going to blow up without zinc. Might wear faster.

Check my link friendo

Name a better group 5 5w40 then. I'm not trying to be a dick but I want to know.

BMW oil is rebranded Castrol.

The quality of the oil that comes in bulk they use isn't bad. What is bad though is the storage tanks that have been used for the last 30 years without getting cleaned out. So when the tanker comes to fill the ranks he's pumping oil out if a 2" diameter hose and it's stirring up all the crap in the tanks. Also I reused the same jug and funnel with just a quick wood if each between uses so, lint from the rag, and any other contaminants are being poured in along with the oil. On expensive cars and my own I clean my funnel with brake clean, water and clean oil before using it to put my own oil in so... do your own oil changes

That was a great read. Guess it's time to get a new motor oil that actually protects my car lol

I work for an Exxon Mobile distributor although we sell multiple brands.
We have quite a monopoly on the ford, toyota, and nissan dealerships. We also have a lot of honda and GM dealerships in the state.

GM dealerships for example will sell it as ACDelco Oil. In our system it comes up as Mobil ACDelco 5w20/5w30/etc. It is kept in different tanks and all from the regular mobil oils but I doubt it is much different. Though it carries GM's Dexos approved designation.

A few dealerships use our Petro Canada 5w20 and 15w-40s and just sell it as their conventional grade without a real brand name to it.

We're now even supplying Toyota dealerships with Toyota 0w-16 which is really Mobil 1. Shits like water, for the 2017's.
We also sell Mobil Super5000 and Mobil 1 oils to volvo dealerships that sell it as volvo oil.

I'm not deep enough in all the knowledge to know all the details or how every place works but regardless working here for 2 months now has reaffirmed my belief that "oil is oil".

I buy mobil now just because I get it ridiculously cheap through work.

I wouldn't worry too much what you're running unless you're running some fancy tight tolerance built motor. ie: Brad Penn / Amsoil / Rotella / etc are all probably still better oils than your general off the shelf oils. I wouldnt' worry too much between your normal conventional/synthetic brands ie Castrol vs Valvoline vs Mobil.

You the Rally guy?

Oil is oil. Only a few companies make oil and you end up with the same oil in different bottles. Quaker state and pennzoil are the same thing made by Shell, and Canadian tire here has their own motomaster brand that's also the same shit as pennzoil. Some people pay more for the brand, but an oil inspection can often find out it's the same oil.

It's best to stick with the same brand though so you get the designed formulation instead of mixing different brands and getting incomplete amounts of additives.

Not sure what that is - so no

Bringing your own parts or oil to shops for them to use on your car is like if you were going to have an organ transplant or a blood transfusion but you insist on using organs/blood that you acquired yourself so you know you're getting the good stuff

Think it was snibbity or something like that that was involved in Rally events with his DSM

Oh I know who you're talking about but no not me.
I'm the other dsm guy though currently I'm out of DSM's as I sold mine in October.

How much you sell for, Wasn't yours fully built or something?

No indie mechanic is going to give a shit if you bring your own oil and filter. It works out perfectly for me because they give me the remaining oil in the jug and I use it to top my engine off later. I bring all the parts to the mechanic and he complements me on my choices, usually there's only low end parts available locally and they always cost more even with the mechanics discount at their cost vs rockauto. I know exactly what's going into my car and everything gets upgraded as I go along instead of replacing it with something possibly worse.

Honda for example uses FRAM filters with the fiber end caps. Fuck that I'm bringing in something with metal end caps.

I sold it for $4350. Exterior was nice. Interior was shitty. Wasn't really built but had a decent setup. I sold it reverted back it its old 16g setup which it ran mid 11's on. At the time of the picture I had a HX40 on it, was around 500whp. Stock block, head had 272 cams, bc springs, and revised lifters.
Was a pretty simple setup on E85. Ran really good.

Kid bought it drove it for a month blew the headgasket and let it sit at his house where it got stolen in December and I ended up going with his mom to get it out of impound cause they never took it out of my name.

Still sitting at his house, steering column is destroyed. trash bag covering window. All 4 tires are flat. Just waiting til he literally abandons it or tells me he'll take $1000 or less for the shell since he lives 2-3 hours away now.

I expect some day it'll be back in my garage where I'll completely gut it. Interior and all. New wiring harness, new interior, and refresh the motor. Trans was just rebuilt and I had just put the clutch in so those would still be good.

meant for you obviously

Would you say it's a finicky car to avoid in most cases?

I mean yes and no. Depends how willing you are to fix a bunch of mistakes at the start.

Hard to find them not ghettofied/hacked together these days. Mine I went through a bunch of fixing wiring, poorly done mods, replacing a new headgasket that wasnt installed correct, restudding fuel tank - etc right when I got it. After that I started to beat on it all the time after I got a good tune on it and had caught all the maintenance up. After 3 years of beating on it, it was still running strong.

Actually are reliable cars if you get everything squared away before you start putting power to it and beating on it. Keep up maintenance. Regular oil changes. I regularly changed trans fluid too since I beat on it so much. I never tried to push it past its limits.

I had a good time with it. Same story on my past DSMs too. Ultimately what drove me away though is I wanted to go faster than 10s for cheap. DSM's can go that fast for cheap but become much more costly and a pain in the ass to keep together. The motors aren't so much the issue but stuff like the transmissions - it's around $3000-4000 for a good non-dogbox transmission. If you race it consistently you can plan to refresh it almost every year.

The aftermarket stuff is still very available but OEM parts are almost entirely discontinued now.

Still great cars and I'd own another before I messed with many other 4cyl platforms.