Hey bros, sorry for taking a long time. 1989 Escort guy with starting issues back

Hey bros, sorry for taking a long time. 1989 Escort guy with starting issues back.

I removed the air filter, exposing the Weber carb underneath. As you can see in the photo the choke isn't fully open when idling and it also doesn't move much when I press the gas (sorry, don't have much knowledge about carbs)

Anyway, the choke has about a half inch of freedom of movement and I cannot push it all the way closed. When I start it and get the low idle, the valve doesn't stand up straight, but does so after a little while at which point it idles normal (1000rpm)

thoughts?

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Bumping w. a new angle.
I have only ever seen those "Mark II" stickers on Ford Orions of the era, I also have a spoiler so maybe that sticker was part of the "sporty" deal someone must have had going on...

feoa.net
These guys prob have a better idea than any of us

True and thanks for the tip, I just thought to post here since there's a few guys with similar tastes and who are a bit more friendly... Just a follow up cause if the problem IS the choke like another user says, it will be very easy to fix

It most likely is but ya know these guys will prob know for sure

You've got tons of oil in your intake. Mad blow by.
Chokes aren't supposed to move based on throttle, chokes are for cold starting, if your car is warm it should be fully open. And it might not ever close, if your car is starting fine cold just leave it the fuck alone. If your car isn't starting fine cold, wait until the engine is cold and close it more then see how it cold starts.

Blow by? and understood, is about 30-40 celcius right now and my car is parked outside still having starting issues.

The choke also doesn't close more than in the picture I posted, even if I apply a bit of pressure to it, it stays open like that and opens fully after running the engine for a bit.

So from what I understand, since it is hot, the choke should be fully open when starting?

sorry for being so dumb right now... but at least im learning!

Combustion gases either blowing past your pistons or/and your valves are leaking

I don't speak metric.
But I think 40 is hot as fuck.
Your choke plate might not be designed to close, I don't know your particular carb, but on my carb there is a bimetallic spring that moves a stepped lever arm to act as a choke stop, so you need to open the throttle to move the arm out of the way to let the choke close before trying to start.
So if I went out to my car and it was dead cold, the choke wouldn't be closed, and I couldn't force it by hand to close. I would need to open the throttle and then it would close all the way by itself.
But if your choke plate has no holes in it, it probably won't close all the way, it needs to let air flow in still, but restrict it.

Have you done a complete tune up?

I don't think so, I have only bought the car a month ago... All I've done is change all the fluids.

Change fuel filter and intake filter new cap and rotor new spark plugs and wires

Don't change the plugs until you get the car running right, you'll just foul them.

They're cheap and his engine has problems that I'm sure he doesn't want to dive into

Cheap to you, that $20 in plugs might be the difference between an oil change.

More info, the blow-by isn't very severe as far as I know, no smoke from the exhaust and not a lot of pressure on the oil filler cap. Right now the starting issue is my main concern as I need the car to drive me 30 minutes to the airport on weekdays for two months.

After these two months I have a job lined up and will have disposable income to fix the little things one by one, just need the car to survive.

Please a set of 4 copper ngks is like 10 bucks man and in that time his car runs even shittier while he gets around to that carb rebuild that he'll totally do one day

Do you know how to start a carbed car?
You do know that you get in, push the pedal to the floor once, then crank and use the throttle as needed to get it to catch, right?
You can't just hop in, turn the key, and jet to the mcdonalds for a mcmealdeal

Do the full tune up and after your done with your airport dealio learn how to rebuild a carb

Where the fuck do you live?
Sparkies are like $6/ea for fucking trash coppers. You can easily spend $15/ea

Rock Auto has ngk v powers for 1.39 each a set of 4 plus shipping would be under 10 bucks I recently bought a set of iridium ngks for my sister's Honda and it was a grand total of 14 bucks I live in Missouri btw in a high tax area

Also
>Not running copper in anything that doesn't specify otherwise

I actually did not know that, I spent the last 4 years driving my dad's 300c and this is my first car. Thank you.

That being said, I did always use the accelerator to make it catch, but even so it dies if I don't stay on the throttle till it "warms up"

You need a carb rebuild man

Your choke is too far open.
You need to close your choke some.

Change your PCV valve, and then use some Gumout and spray the ever living fuck out of the carb, inside and out. There may be some carbon or other fouling that's preventing free movement of the choke itself or the linkage.

I think you should take your carb off and clean it. Looks dirty as fuck. Almost certainly why it runs so poor. While you're at it you can check the choke valve and see if it's supposed to close more and is stuck, or if it's meant to remain partially open.
I would also, even before that, try:
>spray a little carb cleaner through and rev it up
>try running without air cleaner- does it run better?
>also with air cleaner off, start the car and try manually opening the choke. Does it run better or worse?
>then try blocking the gap left by the partially closed choke valve with a finger to restrict air flow more. Runs better or worse?
>take a spark plug out. If it's nasty that could be part of the problem. You are getting a lot of oil in the combustion chamber, plugs are probably fouled.
I would also probably just go ahead and do a full tune up too. Plug wires, fuel filter, change oil (maybe a thicker oil like 10w 40), check distibutor cap and air filter. That and a carb cleaning and new spark plugs I bet it will run like it should.

And luke the other guy said, change pcv valve. Good call on that. They're only a few bucks and it could be why your intake is full of oil.