Did I do good Veeky Forums?

I was looking a just a stock replacement something like ebay.com/itm/1992-1993-1994-1995-HONDA-CIVIC-LX-DX-ENGINE-JDM-D15B-REPLACEMENT-D15B7-D15B2-/192251851531?hash=item2cc31a730b:g:RNIAAOSwrDBZbntB&vxp=mtr

They're pretty cheap, and I like the idea of keeping it as close to stock as possible.

It has an a/c system but i have no idea if it works.

Well, your pictures are fuckhuge but still garbage quality. So no, I'd say you did pretty bad. Good luck with the car though.

Have you tried giving it gas while you turn it over?

>one new spark plug wire
Someone was trying to half ass it. Give it a full tune up first.

Seeing this post made me think. It's completely possible that the retard who sold it to you did not put the cables on correctly.

Yeah tried that. Also tried flooring it to put it into clear flood mode while I cranked it over. Not firing, not even trying.

Yep, previous owner's mechanic did not seem to know much at all when I talked to him about it.

I thought the same thing. Checked, they are on in the right order.

I would seriously take a look at the timing belt. If that has snapped your engine is gone.

This is starting to sound more and more like the culprit. I'm going to go get the valve cover off and have a look. Wish me luck.

I wouldn't own a pre-transponder chip Honda unless I had a garage to keep it in.

That's not an interference engine.

That's surprising. Most compacts I've seen, especially from that era, are interference.

How rusty is it?

>Yes, but only if you live in an area where cars don't get eaten by rust

Look at the pics.

>snow tires

The Miata engine isn't.

>stock as possible
Why? It's so frickin easy to swap a D16 or B18 in that bitch. They're just as reliable and faster. Still easy as shit to work on too

bretty gud

SO COMFY

Timing belt is there and on right. it has fuel pressure, it has spark. I took out the injectors and had a look, and they look ok, though that doesn't mean they're working. I should probably do a compression test and get a noid light on the lead to the injector. Gonna have to wait till this evening though.

checked

It's a little rusty, but idgaf it was $500.

That wheel well rust...you could probably part it out and get more back than what you paid.

... what's wrong with it?

my neighbor has a nice looking crx but it literally rattles my window and wakes me up every morning, its loud as fuck for like 5 minutes before the engine warms up.

>$500 bucks
>no crowbar marks on top of door sill
>no screwdriver marks on back door sill
All in all not bad user. Good luck keeping it on the road and not stolen.

If you're planning on pulling it all apart, and fixing up all that rust to keep it as a long-term project car then buy an alarm and immobilizer, and if you really want install a fuel pump switch in a really inconspicuous place, like in a rear cup holder/cigarette tray if it has one.

Seriously good luck with it all, it's a pretty rad little car. Hope the wheels don't fall off 100ft down the road.

Hard to gauge for sure from the picture and I haven't been in the Honda game for awhile but it does appear to be dpfi (dual port fuel injection, carb setup with 2 injectors) so depending on if its the standard model or DX it will either be a d15b1 or a d15b2 engine.

You seem to be on the right track for fixing it though. Fuel, spark, and timing. One of those ain't right. Start with easy things to check and work your way up.

I was gonna say the main fuel relay is common to fail but if you see the dash light cycle and hear the pump click on and off I don't think that's your issue. You also mentioned spark seems ok. My guess would be it either jumped time, or one or more pistons have shit compression.

I had a 91 civic si hatch myself and dropped an obd1 b18b1 in it for around $600 total I think. That thing was so damn torquey and made that little gocart lots of fun to fart around in.

If you don't want to go B I would say at the very least do a mpfi conversion and drop a d16a6 si engine and trans in it (though I imagine they may be super hard to find now) or a d16z6 or d16y8 with the si trans. 35-40hp upgrade with shorter gears will make a hell of a difference

Pic related. My old hatch. Virtually rust free also. Still kinda miss her

With the engine reference I forgot to conclude with yes they are in fact non-interference.

Okay user, I'm invested in this, it's bretty gud from the pics I can see for $500.

Things you need to do though if you want this to be long-term, and generally something you hopefully can turn into a car you could be proud of. If I were you these are the things I'd do if I wanted to completely do this car up.

Also, do all this and make a list with a clipboard and paper, or a big sheet of cardboard and marker. List it all simply and as straightforward as possible. It'll make life easier.

1. Rust. Check EVERYWHERE. I'm talking everywhere you can get your head and a keychain torch. You need to check every door sill and seal, jack it up and take off the wheels to check the wheel wells, calipers, shocks and springs, brake discs, any and all support stuff you can get to. Check the subframe best you can, as well as all the main piping. Check the engine bay from above and below, including engine and trans mount points, etc. etc. Generally check any place you can think of that you think people wouldn't normally check. Also check brake pads while you have the wheels off, make sure they aren't eaten away and dangerous.

2. Check all the electrics. I'm talking lights, signals, emergency stuff, interior lighting, dash lighting. Check solenoid, starter motor, and as much wiring as you can get to. Check all the little things you can get to, like the brake lights wiring, headlights wiring, etc. Make sure it's all well wired and if not make a note.

3. Check the engine runs smoothly. Take it around your street at home or a parking lot and check brakes response and smoothness. feel out the clutch and see how smooth it feels. Also very important, you can park it and get a friend to rev the engine and check the smoke that comes out the back. In particular be looking for black or white smoke. Black is more common and is usually a fuel burn related issue, white is uncommon but could be more serious. Also check if fuel leaks out the exhaust.

Cont. . .

. . .inued.

Anyway user, these are the three big sections I can think of to check out. Obviously if you need any help with any point there is always info online through google, no matter now obscure.

Overall I'd say if you want a project car you could have a pretty good platform on your hands. For $500 bucks, plus an extended couple grand you could end up having a car that you put 3k into that's better feeling, driving, and quality than anything you could have bought for that same amount second hand. Once all the big stuff is sorted you can start looking at other things like reupholstering the seats. I've found that stripping the seats down the the bare bones and refitting them with new foam rubber cushioning and lining is way cheaper than buying aftermarket seats, and will end up feeling nicer overall, especially if you want a daily driver out of this thing. Also, as far as interior goes if you're unhappy with the feel of it you can always try resealing the vinyl and plastic dash, center console, etc, or reupholstering the flooring with some nice spacer between. Pulling out the seats and fitting the floor with a good layer of thing foam rubber could work, but obviously make sure you're not making a wiring nightmare for yourself, or any fire or fume danger from excess heat in any spots, not that that's likely. On top of the rubber you can then eventually have a carpet over the top fora brand new look. Don't just take my advice though, there's definitely better ways to do it I'm just running things off thew top of my head.

Anyway, good luck user. If you end up going for it whole hog then I want to see an update on Veeky Forums someday.

Also pic related, its probably me.

Semi related - is a sub 1k '96 Suzuki cultus (3 door hatch) worth it

It has an automatic and 200k miles. Two owners, one drove it to work for over a decade

nitrous blue rs?

Not familiar with the Cultus but from Google search it looks like a slightly less cool Suzuki Swift. Same body?

It's basically a geo metro

In fact it sort of is a geo

Aah. In that case pic related.

>rust
>fucked paint
>not an si
literal trash. should've just burned the money.

Ha. Yea I mean maybe he coulda done better but what's done is done. Try and fix it cheaply at this point.

> No start
Is there a resistor pack? If the engine was swapped over, it's possible there needs to be one and there isn't.

Stock motor with stock obd0 injectors so no resistors necessary. I only had an mpfi setup but I don't believe there were obd1 dpfi injectors variants that required resistors.

keep us updated op, did you make it run?

no resistors for dpfi

hell there's only two injectors

my hatch is also dpfi ama

OP, give us some high-quality shots of the engine compartment please. From the front and the sides. Close-ups too. You can see a lot from photos.

Wouldn't hurt to photo the wiring under the steering wheel also.

> Orange spark
Can you use a voltmeter? You can check the wires for resistance and do the procedure in your manual to check the coil. Orange spark is no good. BTW nice car, related, is mom

"mine"

How old is the gasoline?

You fucking. Son. Of. A. Bitch.

Here's another pic of mine for inspiration. Is a 1989HF with swap. Shown with my old school ninja because last century styling is best century styling.

Fuck yeah you did man

Enjoy your street legal go-kart and revel in the angry glares of cops when you rev the piss out of it at stoplights

Ok, I pulled some things apart and put them back together and now it starts, runs, and drives. It's blowing some white smoke and I heard it would overheat before it was parked six years ago. so I'll do a headgasket and tune up and clean everything and it should be good to drive. Score!

Alright I'm going to work on it some more later today I'll take pictures when I can.

I don't have any parts yet so there's not too much that can be done yet. I was thinking of making a run to autozone but I don't think they are going to have everything I need (like the headgasket kit).

I can take it apart but then I won't be able to move it as easily and I was thinking of moving it into my garage.

question from someone in the shitbox market

let's say I buy a car with some rust, but not a huge amount. What is the best thing to do afterward to prevent more rust? Is there a magic washing routine to do in the winter / some coating to apply?

I just hate rust so much - I go super overkill with oiling my guns and having desiccants

wire wheel that shit off and hit it up with spray paint.

if your state salts the roads in the winter, wash the underbody every time you drive it.

Congrats
>sitting for six years
You changed the oil before turning it over, right?

Wire wheel, ospho, prime, then why not just buy a quart tinted to match and brush it on?

As much as we like seeing you post here.... there are dedicated forums an user groups for that series of civic and also for crx's.

fugue off, this is a quality thread in a sea of shit

you
>not yer pesonal blog
people are the worst

Oil is a little milky...

Plugs are pretty black

That and the white smoke? Headgasket.

Reading plugs is a black art but to my untrained eye, the only good one is the leftmost one, all the others look like something going wrong.

Mmmmmm chocolate milk...

I think you are right. Well, I guess it's time to order a headgasket kit. I'll dump some more photos I took today and then I'm out.

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How annoying are the seatbelts user?

Now just equip a few simple mods and you'll be g2g.

take that timing cover off faggot

yes

This is an hour away from me, should I buy it Veeky Forums?

corvallis.craigslist.org/cto/d/91-crx-si-stock/6273553901.html

Get pics of that RS in the background

>tfw stuck with a 97 prelude shitbox instead of a nice little CRX
This thread's got me mad jealous, OP. You're one lucky bastard, even though I know I could probably pick up an old CRX for around that much where I live.

Rear quarter is already rusty. If you cut that panel out, you will almost certainly find the unibody rusting away since Honda never could design hvac or drain holes right for the longest time.

Since you're in Colorado, it's only going to get worse. Contrary to salt state maps, Colorado does use salt - usually with mixtures that keep shit melted for wider temperature ranges (mag). This especially true for bigger roads like i70 and i25.

The saving grace is that it is dry, so rusting is tame when roads aren't wet. Keep it garaged during snows, and do body work when you get the chance. Hondas have a ton of body work documentation because they rust so badly.

ok