QTDDTOT - Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread

I have listened to a few videos, from what I've heard. The sound is nice but what I'm also curious about durability and quality.

flowmaster sounds nuts. i'd recommend getting a really quiet SUV or truck muffler to put under the middle

my brother has a 300c with true dual from the headers that join in an X-pipe where the suitcase muffler should be and has two Super 44 at the ends. sounds amazing but the interior noise is unbearable when the MDS(4 cylinder mode) kicks in.

don't ditch the resonators (end mufflers). they're specifically designed to make the 4 cyl mode sound like a v8. besides, i tried cutting them off only to find out that they barely dampen exhaust sound.

Its like he's trying to talk to me I just know it.

Also trips confirmed.

So is flow master good or bad when its not even in the same language

>Money isn't an issue
Well then do what you want.

I plan on it. I'm just asking for help since I'm out of my knowledge zone

Which of these as a first car:

2002 e39 530d 180k km for 4k euro
2005 audi a3 2.0 tfsi 170k km with bi-fuel implant for 6k euro
2010 golf mk6 2.0 tdi (the one with the cheap interior) 170k km for 6.3k euro

"b-but user those are all german!!!"
Yeah I know but Im Albanian, German cars are our thing no good civic or corollas here.

Is neutral the same as holding the clutch all the way down

There's gas leaking out of my carburator and on my spark plugs, what could be the cause of this?

too much protein

But my car needs the gainz

What is the ideal way to come to a stop in a manual trans car?

>Suppose you are in 4th gear, you straightaway put into netral and brake.

>Downshift until 1st gear and then into neutral.

Or is there any other way?

Downshifting and rev-matching is for the winter and on wet/icy roads.
There's no point not using the brakes when you've got the grip.

I learned manual 2 years ago never drove anything since so i may be wrong but from what I remember
>brake a little
>clutch all the way in
>brake all the way in
>put it in neutral and hold it with brake no need to hold clutch or just hold it like that put it in first and go when u need to move again

As far as freewheeling yes, but mechanically in neutral the gearbox input shaft is spinning but no gears are selected.
Clutch pedal down no longer spins the gearbox input shaft, but also applies pressure onto the clutch release bearing.
It's bad to keep the clutch pedal pressed for extended periods of time.

when i learned driving there was this up hill i swear it was like 60 degree upward any more and it would be a wall
so even in first gear gas all the way down it wouldnt climb since my car was also slow (w123)
it would just spin in place
the instructer told me to press the clutch or something and in his traditional old guy saying this was "giving it air" the fuck is that? the fuck do u do in this situation?

Just make sure there is good contact all the way around each valve when you grind them back into the valve seats.

If one isn't getting good contact easily then swap it for another until you get them all sealing.

not him but doesn't rev matching increase the rpm like if you from 5th to first wouldn't it go to the red line?

Anyone else get depressed when they keep having to repair their car? I've spent nearly every weekend for the last two months under this thing fixing something major. I just want to be driving.

Probably put $1500 in parts into it this year and I know I need to redo the timing chains next.

>Handbrake pulled
>Clutch engaged
>1st gear
>with the clutch still engaged, floor it
>Release clutch just a little bit
>Handbrake up
>uphill you go

This is in a 60° hill, you're not supposed to floor it when the hill isn't that serious

Flowmaster isn't on the same level in a bad sense, if I was you I would see if Basani makes an exhaust for it

The most important thing, is relasing the clutch just a little bit while maintinig power with the accelerator. That's what "giving it air" means

it wasnt exactly 60 i just made up a random number but thanks

wait isnt giving it gas when clutch is down bad?

It will yeah if you're trying to go from 5th to 1st, I was assuming he's asking for the best way to do a gradual stop, otherwise you'll just be pressing the clutch and brake at the same time and not have time for shifting.

Maybe you let the engine RPM get too low, pressing the clutch and letting it slip a bit and getting the engine to higher RPM and into whatever revs it has the most torque in should help.
I took my driving exam on a 72hp diesel W201 with a 4 speed manual, it was a woefully underpowered car, but with enough clutch play you could go up any hill.

>it would just spin in place

What does this mean? If the tires are spinning you need better tires or you're dumping the clutch to fast. If the clutch is slipping you need a new clutch.

Sort of, it depends on your speed. If you're going too fast and just throw it into first you will probably cause some damage to your engine since it will rev way too high. As a general rule you shouldn't need to put your car into first unless you're starting from a stop (or almost stop).

Man you don't even know... I've worked on my car for hours every day since buying it a month ago and have only driven it around the block a couple times. Granted I knew what I was getting into, a barely running project, but still...

at the time I didnt even know what RPM is
i learned manual by never looking at the other circle only the km/h one
I just "listened" to the car in order to change gears
when i read on Veeky Forums what it was ... so much easier i guess my teacher was an old school guy

it was a stony road and some stones were slippery

no I meant going down one at a time wouldnt that still make u go to the red line? unless you brake a little each time you downshift revmatch

>60 degree gravel road
your driving instructor wasn't messing around

not at all, but you shouldn't do it on purpose for nothing, it has two purposes : going up hill, and burnout on manual

I bought this knowing it needed some minor work, because my last car was going to be a major project. Then after a month or so everything started falling apart.

What're you working on?

I drive a japanese econobox so no I don't know that feel.

It won't if you wait for engine braking to slow the car down to a reasonable speed before downshifting again. That said, you don't ever really need to use that much engine braking unless your brakes are out. When I want to use engine braking I'll normally get it down to 3rd, then when my rpms get too low I put it in neutral and brake the rest of the way.

yeah hes pretty old school as i said somewhere else he didnt even teach me what RPM was and i never used the rpm odometer
still funny guy had a blast learning with him
pic related was the stoney road not gravel but big ass stones
the white and red are slippery af even without driving

Turd gen. Replacing the radiator tomorrow. Then I gotta figure out why there's fucking gas everywhere

b-bump

When I try to start my jeep the gear shift shakes violently and won't start. Any ideas ? I had a check engine light about the cat but it went away
2007 Jeep liberty 5 speed

There's gas everywhere because it wants to you set it on fire and get a good car.

So I looked at flow master and it seems without going entirely custom, corsa and bola have the same system. I guess there is only one kit for the Durango.

is this just some decal someone stuck on, or did this come like this?

2014 mazda6 GT

You could always get a muffler shop to quote you on a custom job, will probably end up cheaper than a pre-made
Must be an ausfag thing

goddamnt Veeky Forums why u flip that fuuuuuk

Is there a proper etiquette to test driving a manual car if you've never driven manual before, but get the idea?

dont sweat it my man they want to sell u a car so you are in control.

What cars other than the trailblazer used the same cluster as the Envoy?

The Saab 9-7
Oldsmobile Bravada?

Even if it's a private sale and not a dealership or whatever?

I get frustrated, but for me its more of an issue that becuase of my job my time is limited.

I wouldn't be so frustrated If I had all the time in the world to fix the shit. But Working 6 days a week I'm doing good to keep up with chores and car projects.

What can i remove from my car to reduce weight that wont have negative effects on the cars functionality?

What can i change/swap out?

What amount of lbs is significant enough to be noticable? I want to accelerate faster. I drive a shitbox v6 coupe.

>You could always get a muffler shop to quote you on a custom job, will probably end up cheaper than a pre-made

This, piecing together a universal cat and a universal muffler from any of those makers will probably come out cheaper than the premade kits they sell, even with someone else doing the work.

Why the fuck is open differential even real? Who the fuck came up with that? Just why..?

When im driving... Even the slightest turn of the wheel to the right... It sounds like the wheel is rubbing somthing as it rotates... But i really dont think its rubbing against anything.

What are the possibilities?

Be up front abd tell the guy you're interested but lack the driving skills, at best he'll be happy to teach you on the spot, or you can slip him a few dollars and get him to teach you or at worst the guy will take the car for a spin with you as a passenger.

Have you checked the inner fender for wear? If you have FWD it maybe CV joint related, or something else is wrong with suspension on that side.

Right, so I just watched the Cresta episode if MCM, and I have to ask why do they play such shitty music? When they were listening to these tracks, exactly how much meth were they sucking through the glass dick?

I'm looking at a car with massive wrinkle dents and no frame damage. Can I smooth that shit out with bondo and just paint over it? It's old so the quarter panels are impossible to find, but it CAN be made to "look" good, right?

are Version 5 1999 subaru wrx sti able to legally imported into the us yet?

so I got a 2004 outback and everyone keeps talking about the headgasket issue and I think im fine as of now, but want to know if I should worry about anything more. Also I love this car.

Anyone have a sticky or guide on how I can start learning how to drive manual? I've always driven automatic but want to learn manual as to lessen the chance of getting my next car stolen.

1. Push in clutch
2. Put in gear
3. Slowly let out clutch while pushing down on accelerator
4. ???
5. PROFIT!

(Note, if car stalls or judders, you went too ham on clutch without enough accelerator)

That's the thing I have zero knowledge on manual transmissions at all, like a complete beginner and want to learn.

Does putting the gear higher mean it can go faster? Why do I have to slowly let the clutch out? When should I be switching gears?

A higher gear makes you go faster. If you let out the clutch too quickly you'll stall the car. It depends on the car, Fiero like 2k and shift at 5, WRX like 3-4k and shift at 6.

The rule is cars that are 25 years or older can be imported.

If the car stalls, how can I start it up again? I'm just watching youtube videos and getting an idea of how manuals work

Same way you start it, push in clutch, turn key.

Change timing belt, water pump, and thermostat every 100k miles and you'll be ok. If you're paranoid, get MLS headgaskets of the appropriate thickness for your application with arp headbolts and you'll be golden for years to come. The headgasket issue was only a thing for dohc 2.5 na engines. Yours is an Sohc, so you don't have to worry. Use OEM thermostats since aftermarket ones don't fit properly and you'll leak, and if you don't get MLS gaskets, don't get felpro head gaskets, get OEM. The headgasket issue that the 2.5 dohc had was that the design on the headgaskets caused them to fail. Subaru later updated the design, but felpro used the old flawed design and never changed it.

thanks for the info my man, I will replace them soon since they havent since 04 and its 30k away from 100k anyways.

No problem. Since you're going that far, also remember to replace the coolant crossover pipe o rings and possibly knock sensors if the rubber is cracking. You're gonna be under the manifold anyways so get as much shit as you can taken care off while everything is off. I put dohc heads on my EJ22 and I took the opportunity to pull the engine and replace every oil and coolant seal there is. I'm not sure if you're willing to go as far as to pull the engine, but if you do, remember to replace the oil separator plate (OEM part) and the rear main just to get it out of the way. When the oil separator plate starts leaking it's a nightmare. Rockauto has the cheapest Timken seals, and eBay knock sensors are also ok.

The pinch welds on both sides of my cars are a bit bent in two spots where jackstands were put. Should i just scrap it desu?

Different user but does going too hard on the accelerator when shifting gears do anything bad aside from what I'd guess is wearing the clutch out faster?

Simple shit i can do to get a bit more out of my 2.3l mazda L engine?

Are there any double din android headunits that anyone would recommend?

Eonon seems pretty okay for its price but its chink so yeah

Does anyone have the mcm fourm screenshot where moog ranted about Veeky Forums?

Game changer or a meme?
I'm considering buying these, but I don't want bulbs that cost 3x as much as regular ones and burn in 6 months.
Or even worse do damage the plastic connectors or the headlight reflector due to the higher filament temperature.

e39 530d or e46 320d?

They're noticeably better, but won't blow you away like added driving lights would. Same wattage so don't get any hotter, and you're not "that guy with mismatched HIDs". Stick with Osram, Phillips or Narva.
I bought Narva Plus 120s and they're great. Narva also do a Plus 130, but it's a whiter light. I like the comfy more effective warmer light of the 120.

With enough money anything can be made to look Good

If you buy those I will smash both your headlights out

In normK driving You shouldn't be on the accelerator when shifting up, and should only be blipping the throttle momentarily and off the accelerator for revmatching to down shift.

Looking for a new DD. Budget is $25k or under. Looking for something fun to drive, reliable, and with good emm-pee-gees in that order.

e87 or audi a3 8p?
what engines do you recommend?

Hey ch/o/des, I am going to get a Turd hatch, can't decide between FiST or FoST. Both can be had for cheap with low miles. Which one should I go for?

Want to buy a used 2009 forester xt with 150k.
How not to get fucked with big repairs immediately after buying? Should I look for something without turbo instead?

>feel backlash going through the car when I lift off the gas completely, sometimes 2-3 small lashes in a row (e.g. when coasting towards a traffic light)
>feel a lash when stepping onto the accelerator really gentle
>gets worse when A/C is on
>kinda gone when driving in heavy rain

This is driving me crazy, looked up what could be causing it for some hours, could be engine mounts, could be ignition/ cables, a really ungentle fuel cutoff or jump into engine idle. Test-drove the same model from a dealership which didn't have the issue - they couldn't find the problem back then and it got worse over the course of a year.
Is there a way to locate issues with the engine management? I have a obd-adapter and some apps on my phone - which sensors would I have to monitor in order to recognize flaws?

What's the best tool kit that combines reasonable price with quality? It isn't top notch, but it isn't be bottom of the barrel.

I found that a craftsman socket set and a cheap pack of screwdrivers and wrenches will do just about anything.

ID on these itasha?
no higher res available