Car audio thread

cool, thanks man!

Just don't buy from crutchfield unless you can't find it cheaper elsewhere, which is usually a rarity

Get a more exciting car.

There is nothing exciting about hitting a highway for 50 miles.
Sometimes, rarely, I get a bit of excitement when I have to pass a truck, or turn off my cruise control for any reason.

10 inch sub is all you need, dont fall for faggots shilling 2x 12 inch, chances are they have some weakshit pioneer amp that could barely run an 8, just stick to a decent amp and a 10' sub

a good box is just as important as a good sub, keep that in mind if you decide to build one

dont replace your speakers until you move on from stock deck

if you have the money, a speaker amplifier is well worth it for the sound quality at higher volumes, that being said pick a deck with usb input for better sound transmission

hide shit because of niggers, run wires under carpet and bolt your amp to the frame if you dont want them to take it if they break in

>pop in a late 80es hip hop album cd
>unlisteable unless BAS -4

I have two 12s in a sealed ported box with a monoblock D Alpine amp and 4 tweeters for some nice treble to balance it out ama

I'm very tempted to get a 10" but even professionally installed doesn't it require cutting out holes in parts of your car? idk if it's worth the risk

i dont have one because i like hearing my engine

my renault 11 has had the entire audio system removed, including the plywood board holding the rear speakers.
i don't feel like spending a lot of money on the sound system however i'd want a decent sub because i'm a huge technohead and an aux-capable radio, as for the rear speakers i'm gonna reuse some old technics monitors, they're kind of fuckhuge though, any reccs?

Man I miss having 2 12" American Bass subs. Ran those bitches with an 1100 watt Interfire amp bridged lel. Shit was a block buster rattling pumps at gas stations and merchandise inside stores. All in a shitty '03 neon. Of course I had aftermarket speakers too but at first they were shitty 6x9 Planet Audio's in the rear and then I upgraded to the carbon fiber coned American Bass 6 1/2" in the front and changed out the Planet Audios for the American Bass 6x9's on a shitty SSL amp. Sounded so nice though...

Truck came with an aftermarket deck already in, PO spliced into factory wiring running a set of 3" satelite home theatre speakers off the same wiring that powered the original paper cone 4x10's in the cab corners, and the 2" tweeters in the dash were completely blown.

>Pioneer 900 watt 5 channel amp
>Alpine head unit, forget exact model
>Focal PS130V's, 5 1/4" woofers in doors with the tweeters mounted in the dash in factory location
>some temporary 4" cheapo Alpines in the cab corners
>2 Pioneer 10" shallow subs behind the seat
>sealed box is 4" top depth, 7" bottom depth, 44 3/4" width, 14" tall, all 3/4" MDF

Sounds pretty goddamned good, subs are shockingly good for being shallows.

I am going to be mounting my 10 inch in with an amp tomorrow probably. Currently it's in a small enclosure floating around the back seat area.
I'm going to build a sealed box under the passenger front seat I think. It will probably be a little small, but hopefully it will come out alright

Also, how can I figure out specs for the min and max cubic feet?
Manufacturers site is not having it because the sub was never sold separately it seems.

First of all
>Dual
Second of all, they won't release measurements you specifically need, unless you know what the thickness of the material they used, probably MDF, then you could take the measurements they provided and the thickness of the material to figure out the internal volume
However, the enclosure it's in is what's recommended for that model woofer so it would be best to keep it in the factory enclosure
If you're not satisfied with the woofer, start looking for a new one that's not already in an enclosure

No, it's fine and works. It just takes up space in my mack seat, so I want it move the woofer to a different enclosure that will actually fit under a seat.

Check out truck boxes, but first take the woofer out and measure the depth of the woofer to see if it will work in a shallow box, I would assume the acceptable internal volume will be between .75-1.0 ft^3

the first 'audio mod' i did to a car cost me a total of 70c because my older brother gave me a single 12" sony xplod box as a hand-me-down when he upgraded to a twin american bass 12" box & i wanted to prove i could make it work with what i had, as i was unemployed at the time.

i didn't want to dick around with what i saw as an expensive time waster, i thought surely there is a way to make the car shake with bass without 8 gague wire, drilling holes, etc etc.

i ended up securing a free 100w*4ch amp off of gumtree, butchering phone charger for its cig lighter 12v plug thing & soldering a line-level converter to the rear right speaker of the car.

i bridged 12v & power control/amp on signal & ran the power from the 10A cig lighter socket to power the amp & an RCA dangling from around a rubber grommet in the rear right door supplied appropriate signal to the amp, which was hooked up to the sub.

the only issue it ever gave me is that when i really cranked the stock head unit to like 90% volume, the thin, overly long wires i was using used to run a tiny bit hot. i made a new cord out of a standard mains kettle cord, since then it was more or less perfect for what i wanted.

the amp was on the floor in the back seat with the sub resting on the middle of the back seat, since fucked australian laws made it so that i only very rarely had more than 1 passenger.

recently my older brother sold his car to the wreckers to pay for drugs, so i've adopted his twins & i've shelled out a bit of money, only about $40 total, to run a proper system also with 5*10 kickers in the parcel shelf. the only 'butchering' i had to do to the car was learning how to pull the interior apart to run my cabling & poking a hole through a very large, convenient rubber grommet located in the firewall.

so yeah if you're willing to do some learning & have the tools readily available, i'm sure anybody can do this if they figure out their own solution. aside from getting free subs, ofc, lol.

You are never going to get good audio in a car, the drivers are all in the wrong place the cabin is the wrong shape and there is to much interference from road engine and wind noise. Swap out the cheap factory shit for something better in the $150 range and stop there spend the savings on trying to do the impossible on a good set of cans, a valve amp and turntable with a good cartage for home.

For home, I have some okay cans and a scarlett solo, does alright.
My factory speakers are decent, definitely above average. I think I can benifit from some sound dampening, maybe one mat in each door center and 2 on the roof, probably one on the back cab wall too, but I am definitely getting some moving blankets to lay down on the floor, because road noise is bad man.

>I don't like having 1001 amazing bangers of my choice in my car at the same time all being pumped through gigantic subs, I like to quietly listen to music in its purest form on $40 records that I have to import, sitting in the corner of my room using high-resolution headphones.

have you ever done a burnout or what

>have you ever done a burnout or what
Most days leaving work.

Should I buy it?

Pioneer shallow sub. Can be had for $80 on sale, needs 3 1/8" mounting depth for the 10" and actually lists it's operation volume at 0.35-0.7 cubic feet, ideal volume is 0.6.

Putting a sub in an enclosure it isn't meant for, is going to make it sound like shit.

pick me up one too.

>in store only
Is your current one shitty and you just want a new unit with classic aesthetics? Yes

The current one I have works, some of it at least. But the text is in Japanese, and the radio doesn't go over 90MHz so I can only listen to one radio station. I definitely like the classic aesthetic of this though, and have bee waiting for it to drop from $130. There's a store 7km away from me and they have it in stock, so that's good.

But the thing is, the current one, being Japanese in a Japanese car and all, has started to grow on me despite the fact that the only good use I get out of it is from the AUX. It's probably just my autism.

It's definitely autism, get a radio from your region, they do that when they import, why shouldn't you?

I guess you're right. Looks like I'll pick it up in a couple hours when the store opens.

I should probably figure out how to install the thing...

Oh hey
Alpine R 12" 4-ohm DVC in a custom box
Alpine R 6.5" component speakers
Pioneer AVH-4200NEX
Hifonics Brutus 5-channel amp 1,200 watts RMS

>I should probably figure out how to install the thing...
Just get the adaptor harness for your car from Walmart or vatozone if you don't plan on running amps

Any fucking enclosure is better then that. its like 0.5CuFT and it's a giant vent.
I'm pretty sure this sub is also very shallow. and I already have it. if its ass, ill just upgrade it later.

>Havn't had a Car audio thread in a while.
What people should do in the future is also post links to some of the archived audio threads in the first post. Then people seeing the thread can read those past posts and hopefully make better posts. Over time, threads may get better and smarter as people build upon info.

My car is so loud it can get hard to hear music or have a conversation. What can I do to deaden the sound of the road noise?

>Hifonics
>Capacitor

Nigga

What is the burpose of the bapacitor?

helps absorb interference caused by the rest of the cars electrics
gives the amp more constant power
can also run the stereo for a few seconds after ignition power is cut

just think of it like a fly wheel

Sounds like a load of wank.
I especially love the "digital" capacitors or the 50farad ones that are just the size of a head unit.
It could be useful in really high power stuff, or for smoothing like you said, but ehh.

Get an aftermarket head unit, if not enough, replace speakers with aftermarket ones. Still not enough? 4 channel amp. Then sub or two with a mono or two channel amp to bump some bass. Fwiw I have 23 year old factory speakers with a head unit and some subs and it pounds pretty hard.
>That wagon life

>highest max wattage
>not best

>not wanting a 20K RMS monoblock

>10" sub is all you need

most 10s don't play low enough for my liking.

im running a single 15" for SQ. 3.2 cubic foot box ported at 32hz.

also (4) 6x9 in .3 ft^3 boxes sealed.

there proven to almost eliminate noise from the electrical system

>turntable

fun part is when they pop
electrolytes paper and sand everywhere

It's what plants crave!

I don't know much about car audio but I have to remove my sub if I want to change a brake light bulb.

I'm about to buy a sub and I was wondering if it would be illegal for me to have razor blades sticking out of the back of the box.
This way Jerome slices his shit up when he trys to steal it.

Yes, boobytraps are illegal stupidly enough.

My Mini's audio system (and the entire electrical system) are currently being rewired. Problem is the last owner seemed to have removed the speakers too. I'm looking for four reasonably priced ones (two for the parcel shelf two for under the reader seats)

It's a 1991 Rover if that helps, pretty sure they're 5' to 5.2

What electrical system, there's 4 whole fuses a mini

I put pic attached in one of my minis, sounded good (subs on the back shelf, tweeters on dash, woofers in some pods I built under the dash

user, there isn't any subs in that picture.

>ported box
>SQ setup

The 6x9s are what he's calling the subs
My stupid "premium" Sony system that came in my car uses 6x9s for "subs" as well but they only put out lower frequencies

Are you blind?

Well, more that there wasn't anything connecting the stereo up to the rest of the car. Anyway I'm just on the look out for speakers and I know fuck all about them desu

Some HiFonics are just fine.

6x9's aren't subs kek

By a sound deadening mat(dynamat, fatmat, soundskins, Noico, etc,) and coat your outter-inner door completely, and do 25% on the inner door. Do this for all four doors, then move to the trunk and do a 25% coverage on the bottom, and a small patch on the trunk. Then it is up to you if you like the sound reduction or not. If not, then take the remaining mat and do a full coverage on the floor of the vehicle. Have fun taking apart your entire vehicle and prepping the flooring to do it, though.

I don't mind doing my car as it has a small interior (Mustang GT) and I want to learn about it anyway. I can do it in sections on weekends or something.

No, don't lead him down that way, there's an anonymous on here that had a link that shows the best materials for sound deadening, hopefully he'll show this thread

OP hurr, I got my amp in. It seems to be happy with living under the driver seat.
Is there a benifit to screwing it into place?

Yeah, it not sliding around and possibly getting damaged or go flying and taking your ankles off when you slam on the brakes

It physically can't go forward.
ehh

If there's any play whatsoever where it sits, I'd bolt it down

So much this!

Crutch's prices are hit and miss, but damn have they gotten customer service right all the way back to the 80s.

See where I posted this

Nice, this guy gets it.
Went from a 10 to 2 12s and now 2 ID-Qs in a ported box. All in an attempt to reach those low hz.

>back
Just bolt is down or hide everything.
I have my running deck under my center armrest for this reason

Also, it still kinda sounds like a fucking fart at higher volumes. I can kinda set it low and it will be alright, but I expected it to have some decent punch like I experience when at concerts, not just BRRRRBRBRBRBBRBRBRRRRRBUZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
Is it the sub now, or do I need to do some adjusting?

Sony does that a lot. The upgraded system they have in a taurus SHO has 2 6x9 in the rear playing low frequencies. It makes the car rattle but not like a decent 10 would.

You have Sync too I imagine?

Its a boss... Im pretty sure it will overheat before he arcs his power supply.

Running just the left channel, and at 50% at most because the sub is lame. That is a thought though, I never thought about heat.

except for the fact that you didn't mention a reason why you might still buy from them... which boils down to customer service.

That and I'm not to far from their showroom, but sonicelectronix usually has way better prices

I used to untill I took it out. It was ok but I've convinced myself it wasn't great. In my head I'm Turing into a neckbeard audiophile but in reality I've damaged my hearing and need my components to compensate.

So what did you do, did you replace all 12 speakers? What's your setup comprised of now?

I agree, although I do forget that fact sometimes. And crutchfield has my money to prove it. Not a proud moment.

>now
I took out the 2 6x9s amps and tweaters so far. Kept the Sony door speaker for now. I added 2 old california amps and 1 15 orion dvc sealed and 1 12 skar dvc. Still working on it

You didn't have just the one amp and DSP? lucky fuck lel

I have a set of morels that im about to install tomorrow

I bought it used and it had 2 Sony own amps all the stock speaker and a shitty dsp from China. It looks like it was wired for another amp and sub in the trunk but they just left the wires hidden.

Huh, I've only found one, unless the box I think is the DSP is the second amp

It's funny that when you look at crutchfield for what fits my car, it's a damn $800-900 DAP/Amp combo for 10-12 speakers, I'm like fuck I just wanted a decent set of components in the front and maybe a couple sets of 6x8s in the back but noooooooo

and SE isn't exactly terrible on customer service either. But I've yet to feel like anyone would bend over backwards for me like Crutchfield, except maybe Men's Wearhouse when Zimmerman was still there.

Rule no.1
Biggest mistake I did was just get any wiring kit to install my 1st amp. I went to autozone and bought whatever amp kit I could find. Spent around $50 thinking I had it made, good tunes 2b had...

It only took a month and I was over my beginner bs I bought. Soon I replaced my components again only to find out my shitty wire couldn't keep up.

Moral to the story, get the 2awg or better... Just get it, oxygen free, super coated, never been touched by human hands, and whatever bs they sell you. Just get it. Plan where the wires will go ON PAPER. The head unit is key everything else will fall under its watch. Fuck a brand, most of the shit you will buy comes from the same factory. Except planet audio, that little hell spawn will eat your money like stripper in Vegas. STAY THE FUCK AWAY FROM P.A.

Lel, I did the same thing.

Luckly I've never had to use anyone's customer service.

Gains are too high.

dindu nuthin shit