QTDDTOT - Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread

A place to ask all your short automotive related questions.

>ProTip - A simple Google search may actually answer your question.

Also go through the thread and look for questions that you may know an answer to.

Previous Thread hit rev limiter -

Other urls found in this thread:

autoscout24.de/angebote/jeep-wrangler-benzin-blau-8a0fdc99-14ca-4108-a2ef-ef3c84d4c3a7?recopos=12&ipl=detailpage-engine-itemBased&ipc=recommendation
suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=249399135&ambitCountry=DE&damageUnrepaired=ALSO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&isSearchRequest=true&makeModelVariant1.makeId=12600&makeModelVariant1.modelId=11&maxPrice=9000&pageNumber=1&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=searchNetGrossPrice
charlotte.craigslist.org/
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

do you like... my car?

Question is, do you like yours? If you like yours and it does it's job, it's good for you.

Question about charcoal canister / EVAP system

The EVAP system is supposed to collect fuel vapors, store, and reuse at later time. My car is 25 years old and when I open the fuel cap, it makes a fizz sound. Does that mean the EVAP system is faulty?

I have an '03 E46 with Black interior but grey cloth on the A,B,C pillars.
My problem is that the cloth on the C pillar is falling off again. I tried to use Krylon High Strength Spray Adhesive, but after a few weeks, it was coming off.

So I was thinking of tearing the cloth off and using Plasti Dip to paint it black or grey.
It a good idea?
Will it work?
Will it melt from the interior heating up from the California heat?

(Pic related but not mine)

I have no Idea, but my 8 year old car does that as well.

>using spray adhesive
That is the problem, spray adhesives ar weak.
I suggest using a stronger glue like a thin layer of epoxy or polyurethane.

Can I fix the understeering tendencies and traction loss under acceleration in corners of my FWD car with a extremely strong rear sway bar and a front sway bar delete?
My idea was to eliminate most weight transfer on the front axle and let it only happen on the rear axle to keep the inner front tire down while cornering.
pic semi related

What about Plasti Dipping it?

(Heil)
I´m no expert on plasti dip, but I assume it is not all that temperature stable.
Why not paint it normaly?

Old fiat stilo diesel

Battery or electrics problem, when I turn the key, electrics turn on, but when I turn further to start the engine, everything shuts down. I have to unplug and plug the battery again, and repeat until engine starts.

Help please.

Does the engine start after that?

If yes:
Starter Motor shortcut.
If no:
Dead battery

Most of the time no, only with luckily it starts. When it does, no more problems, car runs great.
Yesterday I've made it from work to a store befor wanting to go home, but then I had to leave it at the store because it wouldn't start from there.

I've always thought it was the battery that is depleting without reason, but it could be the starter too.

Im looking at getting a jeep wrangler in germany, currently im driving a honda civic but the roads here are so bad its beating the shit outta me, even had a weld break and the muffler snapping off, so im looking at getting something with a bit more springyness and a better tire size, plus its something i could take back to the states and use, budget is around 10k USD because good credit and itd be nice to have something to pay on loan wise to continue building credit, im looking at getting one of these two : autoscout24.de/angebote/jeep-wrangler-benzin-blau-8a0fdc99-14ca-4108-a2ef-ef3c84d4c3a7?recopos=12&ipl=detailpage-engine-itemBased&ipc=recommendation

suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=249399135&ambitCountry=DE&damageUnrepaired=ALSO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&isSearchRequest=true&makeModelVariant1.makeId=12600&makeModelVariant1.modelId=11&maxPrice=9000&pageNumber=1&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=searchNetGrossPrice

but i was wondering if there were any specific quirks, if i should not fall for the manual meme, get a newer model, different model and so on.

It sounds like a shortcut in the starter motor coils.

When it doesn´t start and shuts down, 2 blank wires in the starter motor contact.

Thank you very much user, will look more into starters.

Is it possible that some fault in the starter can cause the battery to deplete?

Usually not, since it is not conected with the battery when not in use.

buying a car for the first time

what kind of rep does Mitsubishi carry? There's a cheap Lancer I can buy will it be costly to maintain or is it like any other Japanese econobox?

Why is the Regera so ugly? That ass is just hideous

You are the only one that said that. I think it looks badass.

_Thought this might be the best place to ask this without making a new thread:

My 2005 chevy impala's flashing check engine light just turned on and smelled weird, sounded like clicking, and shook the car when not in motion. How fucked am I and should I just resign to taking Ubers to and from work ftom now on? Is it even worth towing to a mechanic and spending 300 bucks just to find out the dasmage?? Thanks if you answer

Good qtddtot threads with helpful anons make my day, thank you again.

I'm in a bit of a pickle with my airbox. See, my car came with it as a default, sporting a normal *20 by 30cm filter mat mounted horizontally.

Since this thing does a pretty good job of taking in cool air, I wanted to install a raid hp formula cone filter, facing downwards into the ~30cm deep airbox. Problem is, while the pipe going into the airbox is standard 8cm, it doesnt extend into the pipe, instead it has this weird hole inside I can't mount a pipe to. I also don't want to mount it in the engine bay, since it's fairly close to the motor, about 30cm away.

The question is, can I simply run a smaller pipe (7cm?) into the airbox, and mount the cone to that? would it create any issues because the top part is not air tight and heat from the motor could get in?

Will provide pictures if needed, it's a 2009 kia sportage 2.7l v6

Lancer EVO's are just as abused as STI's. Normal lancers, maybe. But any used sporty car will probably be fucked up by some boyracer, and will cost you out the ass.

t. impulse bought sporty galant without checking owner history

Where can I find some good recommendations for driving sunglasses? I'm looking to reduce glare from wet roads so polarised would be preferred.
Some morning's it's so bad I can't make out the road or cars on it.

How shitty would a C5 vette be as a DD? I drive 35 miles to work everyday but its been my dream car.

You are not going to fight the front-back weight transfer (which is your main problem here) with sway bars, you need at least harder springs for that or some adjustable dampers that allow you to separately tune bump and rebound stiffness.

Also, trying to make one axle perform better by making the other one worse is generally bad practice. If you have a problem on one axle, try to fix that problem instead of creating another problem on the other axle.

You also seen confused about weight transfer in general.
Changing the amount of body roll won't change the amount of weight transfer that happens between two wheels of the same axle. The weight is going to be transferred regardless, you can only influence how quickly it happens. So deleting the front ARB won't change how much weight is going to be transferred from the inner to the outer front tire, it will just make the process take longer.

Furthermore, deleting the front ARB and using a stiff ass ARB on the rear will more likely cause more problems than it solves. These kinds of extremes rarely work, it just makes a mess on the setup of your car and you will end up with a super sloppy front end a super twitchy rear end, fucking up the handling of pretty much every other situation except the one you are focusing on.

If you are dead set on using sway bars to solve you problem (spoiler alert: they won't), you can at least try to go with smaller steps, like a front a little bit softer OR a rear a little bit stiffer, but it won't do much because you are trying to change front-back transfer with something that only affects left-right transfer. You need to change ARBs if your problem happens during corner entry and during quick direction changes, not at corner exit.

Provided you have the budget and/or the willingness to invest in new parts, the best solution is to go for different spring and/or adjustable dampers or an LSD

How many times should I take my driving test before giving up on it completely?

That just means that the system is pressurised. It is functioning correctly.

Just before you open unscrew the petrol cap, light a match, hold it right up against the seal and watch which way the flame goes as you unscrew.

If the flame gets sucked into the filler, then it's a vacuum. If it flickers away from the filler, then it's expansion.

Let us know how you get on.

what is the best "good enough" engine hoist?

Once. If you failed that then buy a bicycle and a bus map

How come hardly anyone one replies to my posts on this board? Any tips for getting more (You)s?

post provocative images

The one that reaches far enough above the engine bay and that can withstand the weight you are trying to move

I personally think that it would be a cool weekend car, not a dd.

My aux port shot itself and now I'm left with this. Anyone know what I need to buy to plug this into?

I don't know but cut your fucking nails man

Is 5k too much for an 04 civic with 100k miles on it?
carfax says only 2 owners and no reported accidents.

How do I get my 2000 V6 Frontier to break loose? I took off the spare tire and it'll give a little bit more, but it won't go sideways. My front shocks are starting to show a bit of wear, so should I replace those first?

Does it have traction control?

Long story short my pressure relief cap is leaking coolant. How do I go about testing the cap without running and warming up the engine? I have a vacuum pump to test negative pressure, but how do I test positive pressure? What do I need?

This is for the two guys who were advising me about getting my stuck spark plugs loose, just wanted to let you guys know I followed your advice with the breaker bar and penetrating oil and got the job done! Car is purring like a kitty now good as new. Thank you both for your encouragement and help, really appreciate it. I learned a lot and saved a lot of money, this was a rough but good start to the world of self-maintenance for me.

I'm learning to drive manual and I get an autistic breakdown everytime an upshift isn't smooth.

1st to 2nd is pretty much always smooth, but 2nd to 3rd my RPM drops too low and there's a small lurch. Should I just not let go of the throttle fully when switching gears so the RPM doesn't drop too low?

My registration expires on the 30th of this month. after getting it inspected/emission checked how long does it take to show up in electronic databses so I can renew online? Also how long does it take to receive new stickers?
NC

There are pumps made specifically to put the cooling system under pressure to check for leaks, but they mostly use their own cap to screw in place of the original cap and feed air from there.

So your best bet is to disconnect one of the small return hoses that go into the surge tank, plug the hose shut and try to use an air gun with a tire pressure gauge to feed air into the hole in the tank (maybe use a small piece of a garden hose to make an airtight seal between the tank and the air gun or be creative with something else), keep pushing air in until you reach the maximum pressure written on the coolant cap.

If you start noticing air leaking from the cap before the max pressure is reached, then the cap is broken, otherwise you are leaking from somewhere else

They're not even long kys

You are a disgusting piece of shit

No it will be the same 1 on the left and 5th or 6th on the right.

Shift faster, or shift at a higher point in the rev range.

You didn't tell us what car it is
You didn't tell us where that plugged into,
You didn't tell us where the cable is coming from
And you need to cut your fucking nails.

If its the only thing you have to drive? Shitty becuase your gas mileage would be horrible.

I've narrowed down to two cars...
>2011 Nissan Rogue SV
>2013 Volkswagen Tiguan SE
Any particular problems with these makes or models? Going to test drive Monday.

You can take it to Advance and they'll run the codes for you, for free.

Taking it to a mechanic and having him look at it should be free or fairly cheap.

VW is shit, Nissan is less shit but not perfect.

Both are normally driven by women, but it that doesn't bother you then disregard.

Is a CVT tranny anything to worry about? The rogue has one.

I already shift as fast as I can. I guess the reason switching from 1 to 2 is fine because I only need to put the gear stick down, and shifting from 2 to 3 I need to pass through neutral.

You're recommending shifting at higher rpm because the higher the rpm the larger the rpm drop between two gears right?

LOL Yeah that will only last you about 60k miles before crapping out.

>You're recommending shifting at higher rpm because the higher the rpm the larger the rpm drop between two gears right?

The car won't immediately drop to idle speed at shifting so if you shift at 4k instead of 3k it will give you more time before it drops too low and lurches the car.

Can anyone enlighten me on mmt-based octane boosters? I want to add some royal purple max octane boost to my car but I'm afraid the mmt in it will foul up my spark plugs, cat and o2 sensors. Do these boosters have other chemicals in them to prevent this manganese buildup or should I just avoid them?

>You're recommending shifting at higher rpm because the higher the rpm the larger the rpm drop between two gears right?

That's not how gears work, the drop between a gear and the next one is always the same regardless of how fast the engine is running when you do the upshift.

Why are you using an octane booster in the first place?

I live in California

Well the one I was looking at has 100k so...

And?

And the gas here sucks, 91 octane at best meanwhile the manufacturer recommends 94

Really? Thats awesome. Not that dude but shops around here will charge around 100 just for a diagnostic.

Been looking at g37s... I want an rwd but the majority of listings are awd... I heard that awd gives you better traction therefore a faster takeoff. But ive also heard that rwd weight shifts to the back wheels giving more traction and faster take off. Which is true?

Also heard that awd adds several hundred lbs so car will overall be slower. Is there anything else im missing or should know about awd vs rwd on the g37?

Are honda accords "girl" cars? The v6 is decently quick.

Not at all

I just found a 2006 e87 320d (m47 not the problematic n47 engine) automatic with 180k km for 6k euro
should i?

A girl's car is a bicycle.

Is there a way to increase gas milage in a car with out reduceing with the engines hp and torque or general quickness?

How do I set up the seat to be comfortable in a hatchback?

It was fine when I test drove it, but that was realistically only for about 20-30 minutes at a time. Since I bought it, over 2 years ago, I have never found a position that's actually comfortable.

They just seem to be popular with middle class women. Like a secretary, clerk or receptionist...

First off you shouldn't care about that if you like the car enough. Second Accords are very popular, everybody drives them.

If the car is N/A Turbos and Superchargers can some times improve mileage with the right tune.

But for the most part you can't have both.

Dude who cares, it's not really feminine like an audi TT or whatever, just because women drive them doesn't mean men don't. Hondas are reliable and cheap, of course they're popular.

The free part of him looking at it usually precludes him fixing it. But yes there are alot of indies out there that will give you their opinion for fairly cheap, or at least the cost of one hour labor.

I thought about that but the way it looks is that the overflow tank hole is on the sealed side, not the main coolant line side, which means introducing positive pressure there wouldnt make the spring compress.

>buy car a month ago, all is well
>suddenly, heavy rain one night and car turns over but wont start
>fuel pump not doing anything
>no symptoms at all until now, parked up fine now does nothing
Does this sound like it could be an electrical thing? If so, how do you even approach finding out whats fucked? Fuses are fine...

pillows and sit sideways

remove the lead from your foot

I recently bought a 2005 mustang used. What are some easy quality of life type mods I can do to get better performance?

Ls swap

0/10

Then you just have to warm up the system a little bit to let the thermostat open

sell it and buy something with potential

but user according to the sticky the 05 mustang is the best car for me

best car under 1k that has awd or 4wd for offroading use?

charlotte.craigslist.org/
the local craigslist

Soapy water or trace dye senpai

Test

Ok this is weird. I specifically typed "soapy water or trace dye senpai" and it got changed to senpai....? Ive never even used that word before so it couldnt have been an auto correct from my phone. And besides i even double checked what i wrote. Am i missing somthing?

Ok never mind i guess 4 chan automatically translates f-a-m to senpai. Huh weird. If this is somthing that everyone knows and i look dumb right now just pretend it didnt happen. Thanks.

lurk moar

How to I set up my FWD car to corner better?

Just toe-out my rear wheels?

How much should I toe-out the rear wheels, and why?

What do I tell the cashier?
Hey, make sure to tell the guys to toe-out the rear wheels a little; just a little. Not too much, not too little, though.

sorry, i must be retarded, what would the thermostat have to do with this? warming up the car so that theres enough ambient pressure to compress the spring that would allow me to test through the overflow hose seems a bit redundant some im trying to test everything without turning the car on at all. but thanks for the advice anyways, good to know theres a pump that does what im looking for.

I was thinking of taking the filler neck out completely and capping one side, and maybe doing it that way.

Looking at converting a euro spec car to proper us spec, but i cant figure something out, if the odometer measures in kilometers, how would i get it to measure in miles, assuming i tic it up to the converted rate, does the vehicle speed sensor measure and spin at the right rate, is it specced for whatever region its in? is it engine programming? its a 95 jeep wrangler for context

so a buddy of mine is lending me his old beater 240SX for a week so I can finally learn to drive manual (since everyone in my family had an automatic when I was growing up)
I know how to do it in theory, but is there anything I should keep in mind, aside from how I'm probably fucking up the clutch?

Just try and really pay attention to the feel of how the car reacts when modulating the clutch. Don't try and go fast with the clutch at first since you'll stall. Keep the revs below but also around like 2.5k as your accelerating from a stop. Eventually you'll get it down and find where the clutch bites and starts to move the car, and you can hold the clutch there with steady throttle and you'll get rolling with little effort and quickly.

I have a BMW e60 530i that is leaking some fluid in pic related. I figure it is probably that hose clamp or the cap there but am not sure what I am looking at; all I know is there is wet fluid there and I only drove it for 20 minutes today.

Can anyone tell me what I am looking at with a cap on it, maybe there is a gasket leak?

Thank you

is it better to get the revs up a bit before letting the clutch out, or should I do it at the same time?