/CCG/ Classic Car General

/CCG/ - Classic Car General

Can't think of an edition, edition.

>Cars are considered classic at 25 years old but they need to have a certain something about them to be an actual classic

>Everybody has their own taste, enter if it's of age or rarity, European, Russian, Japanese or North American

>Post your classic, your work on it, your hackery, and get advice

>Any and all discussion about classics welcome, but may not necessarily generate responses, don't get butthurt.

>Classic shitbox > modern shitbox

>Rust is a bitch, and not for the faint of heart;

>You will inevitably spend twice your budget, no exceptions unless you mint your own hash coins.

Other urls found in this thread:

slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61541&start=45
newyork.craigslist.org/brk/cto/d/1970-dodge-coronet-440-coupe/6293446084.html
carid.com/1970-dodge-coronet-quarter-panels/
pirate4x4.com/forum/ford/2481225-carb-swap-e4od.html
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

Slow and steady

What is the best way to remove old seam sealer? It is basically impossible to grind it off, since it just gets smeared everywhere. I have been using a wire brush and carb cleaner and it seems to be coming off ok, but was wondering if there is a faster, easier way.

Winters are so-so, work is close enough to ride a bicycle if the car is broken or the roads are freshly salted, I need to drive 100 miles about 25 times a year, and I have absolutely no mechanical experience. Classic daily driver y/n?

What should i expect for performance/mpg with an I6 3spd mustang (65-69)? Will it be able to keep up on modern roads?

Alternatively, if i cant get a mustang, im shooting for YJ to nerd out and make it a jurassic park jeep.

The engine will be a dog and because it's a 3 speed the final drive ratio will be ass. It'll probably scream on the highway and since it's an I6 that's not that good.

If you have no passion for it then no. Yes if you do, you can always go cruising around in it when not working.

I6 mustangs came with 2.83 rears, so I'd say you could get double digit MPGs driving conservatively. Install an overdrive and you could further increase your economy

Don't expect any performance out of it whatsoever, beaners in shitty honda civics will pass you in a hearbeat.

Intersting.. i didnt expect speed, but mpg was. A while ago, ive read that you can get 18-20mpg with them. Coworker had a 59 F100 with the I6 and 3 on the tree and got 15mpg

It really is a matter of how you drive it. You'll probably burn more gas trying to keep it at a modern road speed then you would if it had a V8.

On carb'd cars the number of venturis and the amount of throttle determines MPG more then displacement I've found, not to say that displacement isn't a factor. That said my Corvair gets like 24 mpg and it's between 3-5k all of the time.

>24mpg
holy shit, what rear do you have and what tranny?

not sure the rear end, you had like two options for that year but it's not original. Lets just say top speed is about 65 mph, it's a 4 speed as well.
Need sum 15 inch wheels.

I'm not a fan of white leather, but I like it here.

gl with the mountain dew stains

I've been posting about installing AC in my truck periodically and here's a bunch of the components put back together. Looking for any kind of advice that will prevent my fan from exploding through the grille or something

slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61541&start=45

Plenty of late 80s cars are reliable enough for your needs but be wary of cracked hoses, leaks, electrical gremlins etc. Preferably something simple, low optioned, comfortable and low mileage. Japanese or European preferred in my experience

Also, anyone use a good brand rust resistor/inhibitor without any gimmicky additives? Since I have and old non aluminum radiator stop-rust is a necessity

FUCK these things. Sneaky little shit literally jumped off my carb and onto the ground as I was putting it back on

Napa's ZeroRust is pretty good

what are these weird D written on my block under decades of filth?

death

Danger

Danger: Double Death

Will my Taxi cab be a legitimate classic soon?

soon? maybe 10 years

My favorite year of Impala, unfortunately tarnished because one of my crackhead neighbors has one.

i had a problem with this piston, can you boys tell me what happened?

Yeah the community behind this car is shit also, a lot of people ruin the car with shit mods and 22s

it never overheated and was relatively new.

...

Did it sit outside? could be rust from water damage or sitting for a long time in a really humid environment.

could have smacked a valve or overheated.

Is that a beetle? The thing about air cooled engines is you'll never know when they overheat. The only medium that can overheat is the oil, at about 570 degrees.You could have cooked the engine and never knew it happened.

only the one side of the piston was like this. and the others are fine.

no i live in the desert

It might have overheated and you never knew about it, or you had some crazy knocking.

do you think it ran lean from the pics? the plugs were dark but that doesnt mean much because thats just what they were at when it last ran

Could be, did the exhaust sound kind of poppy when it last ran?

no i would say it sounded fat

Well an overheating engine can also cause knocking.
Take another person's opinion before you settle on an answer though, i wasn't there so i don't know but that looks like problems with knocking. Is that a hypereutectic piston?

Is it normal to have fuel sitting on top of the throttle plate? I'm guessing it's not

No, not really.

Can't say I've heard of that before. Sounds like fuel from the accelerator pump nozzle is squirting gas onto the plate

You know what could cause that? High fuel pressure? Sticky throttle?

The throttle would have to have been cracked open if that was the case, unless the shot was turbo delayed.

Stuck float, high fuel pressure overcoming the needle and seat, possibly a gasket failure.

Well I know my floats are good. Really gotta hook up a fuel pressure gauge but I'll have to redo some of the fuel line cause most of it's metal

i'd like quintuple check that the float level is set correctly. Looking at a reference for your specific carburetor.

Yeah I just checked it an hour ago but I'll be checking again when it goes back in. It's actually set kinda lean and the car still runs crazy rich

How much should I expect to pay for a non-POS 70-73 firebird? Anyone know of any for sale around them?

Gasket scraper, wire brush, hot soapy water and some shop rags.

>The thing about air cooled engines is you'll never know when they overheat. The only medium that can overheat is the oil, at about 570 degrees.

Do air-cooled car engines not have a cylinder head temp like on small planes?

Some do, mine doesn't. That wasn't introduced until the second generation i believe.
Not sure if Volkswagen did or not.

Pontiac dudes are wayyy too proud of their shit. I don't really have enough frames of reference to give you an exact number, but itll be too much for sure lol. good luck though, they're great cars

It wouldn't be on something cheap like a very but maybe on a Porsche or a tatra

That's probably bore size code or piston-to-bore fit.

Or some shit.
dickhead dogfucker dirtied derry's drag dodge

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

First wash and wax:

How much mousse is in your hair right now and how lime green is the suit your wearing?

>The Imperial, now relegated to being a table, watches on sadly.

Nah; they look good together.

Torinofag here.

What's a fair price on a beat to shit 1970 fastback mustang?

It's sitting rusting in a field a few counties from me, and they'd like to sell it as a parts car.
I have no fucking idea how terrible the damn thing is, BUT.
It has floors and all the parts.
I'd just be spending my time getting it running again, cleaning the engine out and shit.

Personally I'd take the Imperial over the Cadillac any day.

Today I finished last week's project of getting my 1987 XJ6 started. Put 5 gallons of gas in the right side tank, got the fuel pump working, then found I had water in the tank. Ended up pumping out about 1.5 gallons until I got to pure gasoline. This was bottle #4. Next weekend I clean it then get it to a trans shop to get the Borg Warner 66 rebuilt. Despite being a mechanic myself I don't have the time to fix the transmission myself and don't want the car sitting anymore.

Have you ever done anything to that old Cadillac though? Or whatever it is, I can't remember exactly

Besides start it occasionally, no. Haven't had the funds needed to start a complete restoration on it. I want to get the smaller projects, like the Jaguar, done and gone before starting that. It'll give me the money and the space needed.

Make that a '68.
What is it with me and 1968?
Also, it is NOT a fastback.
I'm just a fucking idiot.

It looked like it had the 289 in it.

$1000 max, lower if it's really in bad shape

Thank you user.
This may be a quicker, cheaper project judging by how things look.

Really beginning to think that the front axle re-gearing on my bronco is going to be a nightmare on the ground.

Has anybody done it before? Should I just pull the axle?

They're very different cars for different purposes; the Imperial handles far better than a car of its size has any right to, so it's far more fun to take on the twisty roads and winding hills; plus, I have a moderately aggressive sound to the exhaust with a proper dual setup, yet it looks unassuming.

The Cadillac, however, makes a statement everywhere I go. Driving it around Texas with the top down is great. People wave, yell, and love it. It's so ostentatious that it makes me feel like a celebrity when I drive it; granted, I only had it Sunday, but the entire 4-hour trip I took to bring it home I had so many people admiring it that I lost count.

Huh, a 2dr 1970 that *isn't* 20k+ newyork.craigslist.org/brk/cto/d/1970-dodge-coronet-440-coupe/6293446084.html

'Course, I wanted a 4dr and NOT a 6cyl...

just buy it bro, you'll be tripping over 360 blocks if you looked on Ebay and 400 blocks are almost as numerous.
I hate to tell you but you probably won't find a 4 door Coronet ever.

Been driving the Comanche around for the last several days, been having a fucking blast. Sure would be nice if I could install the trim or if the floor mats wasn't forming a tunnel over the hole in the floorboard directing hot drivetrain air directly at my calf, but it's fun as shit to cruise around in and haul shit with it.

Isn't that the same model year of Cadillac that Kennedy was shot in?

That thing got fucked. 6k way too high

No it's not.
They made less than 15k Coronets that year including the Superbee.

I can say without a doubt this is probably your only chance this lifetime to get in a Coronet without paying 5 digits.

You can easily find new quarter panels, suspension components, anything really for Mopars.
I've seen you in this thread often. Not to be a dick but i think you're a little naive if you ever think you'll find a four door 1970 Coronet. They don't even have production numbers for four doors. They probably totaled less than 500.
This isn't Ford or Chevy, Sometimes Chrysler made a fistful of one car model and then stopped and it's usually their most interesting cars.

6k is absolutely a steal considering it's nothing to put whatever engine you want in a B-body and replacement steel costs less than a decent computer.

Kennedy got shot in a 1961 Lincoln.

General question, do you consider oldtimers classic cars?

I don't see how a person could be a car.

But why you mad bro? I know cornets are decently rare, but from what i can tell, the rear end got fucked. Maybe a wreck? Idk, but i think youd be getting a new frame for it.

Also, i know my mopars.

There was also a cornet forsale on my cl a few months back. 440, 4spd, red on black. 9k. Looked old, but didnt looked wrecked.

I'm not mad, i just want to see you finally get what you want but this isn't the 80's anymore, or even the mid 2000's. These cars get scarcer by the day and you already missed the boat.

>but i think youd be getting a new frame for it.
You don't need a new frame.
carid.com/1970-dodge-coronet-quarter-panels/
>Also, i know my mopars.
I never said you didn't but you're looking for a needle in a needle stack.

Sorry, i just got off a 24hr watch and im still on duty, im kinda irritable.

Im just saying, from what i can see in the pics, it looks like it got hit from behind. Combine that with new york and mopar rust issues, that thing could be gone. Bow granted, if you check it out and its just some dents, ill find you and beat you with jumper cables for not getting it.

Well if it sat in a garage there's little chance the floors are out right now.
Most often they rot because the cowl gets clogged up with leaves and water starts leaking in through the air vents or the winsheild wiper seals crank and water skips the cowl completely. it needs work but it's probably in okay shape besides the rear.

Yes

>did Kennedy get shot in a car made 5 years after he got shot
?

Has anyone here attempted a C6 to E4OD swap? I hear the bell housing is the same. E4OD has a 4th gear and overdrive so it would be a pretty good upgrade in my eyes.

E4OD is a C6 with a lockup converter and an overdrive grafted on. Fortunately they were found behind 460s all the way up until Ford stopped producing the 460.

It's also electronically controlled so you'll have to steal the transmission control unit from the donor truck.
Another thing to consider is you'll probably have to change a frame crossmember and chop up your driveshaft.

From what I've read so far the E4OD is longer than the C6. It's also a bit fatter so I'd need to do some gentle massaging. Since my truck is a 4x4 I was wondering if the transfer case would bolt on to the E4OD or would I use the transfer case from the donor?

>I've seen you in this thread often. Not to be a dick but i think you're a little naive if you ever think you'll find a four door 1970 Coronet.
>I'm not mad, i just want to see you finally get what you want

Nah I'd left for work after posting the craigslist link , so that's someone else. Though I did notice the rear end damage, hopefully that's just body. Thanks for input though.

Either way though, that's all the way in NYC, I'm in NC, and I don't quite have 6k anyway. Maybe it'll still be there when I save up more, but it might not. (Though I suppose NYC is better than the usual "every convention, artist, etc you wanna see is in California or England" that I usually get)

Also! If I DO save up for that car, and it is still there, and without one closer to my preference appearing....how difficult is a V-8 swap in a B-body? Like, besides the engine and maybe the transmission case and maybe exhaust, what equipment is different on the 6cyl cars?

It's EZPZ. A complete engine will need an appropriate bellhousing and engine mounts.
Maybe make sure your rear end is up to the task.
I imagine it's a 727 but if it's a 904 you might want to consider getting a 727 if you go b/rb engine.

Here, this is relevant to what you want to do:

pirate4x4.com/forum/ford/2481225-carb-swap-e4od.html

I see, yeah. I'll take any V-8 really, even the 318. I already have a /6 car, don't wanna have the heavier car have it too.

So... This fucker is stuck. After beating on it for a while, I rented a pickle fork and stuck it in there and beat on that for a while and have made zero progress. Ideas?

My Poncho 400 heads were being built by a friend of the dude who's helping me build my engine. He's just north of Houston. It's gonna be a bit of a delay until I hear from him or get those heads.

Do you have a cutting torch?
At work I just use a torch to cut the threaded part off then blast straight down into the metal on the balljoint, it comes out eventually, just try not to torch too much of the Pitman arm.

Have to do that every now and then when hammering on it does nothing

I do not. Just a simple propane torch. I'm considering cutting off the drag link and drilling it out.

Have you tried heating the fuck out of the pitman arm then wailing on it with the biggest hammer you got?

In addition to what other anons say, when you go to hit with hammer, screw the nut in til it's flush with the bolt, so you don't mushroom the bolt tip.

Granted, that only applies if it's going back on, I realise 0.05 seconds after posting

A secret i learned was a rivit gun/hammer is awesome. I was trying to remove studs from the hub. All day with the biggest hammer i could fine didnt do shit, then this air hammer thing does it in seconds.

Biggest fucking hammer, yes. I haven't tried heating it yet. I kind of ran out of steam after wailing on it for a while. That'll be the next course of action when I start again tomorrow. If somehow that doesn't work... I'll hacksaw the drag link off the stud I guess and drill it out. If that doesn't work, I'm buying a new pitman arm.

A propane torch will bloody fucking well do it.

Do this when you have it hot.

If that doesn't work, use a puller (there are specialized balljoint pullers) and do this.

Here's hoping my baby hammers have a chance of doing it because I'm not entirely sure how I'd get to the parts store for additional big fucking hammers.