QTDDTOT - Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread

A place to ask all your short automotive related questions.

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ANGERY

>fucked up
I fell pretty flat when my mom asked me for car advice
>They recently bought 2016 ram hemi (dads)

>Putting too many kms on ram >Toyota Sequoia is pos (moms)
>want a safe, luxurious car for highway use (snow)
>should be better on gas than v8
>stay away from German luxury small town don wanna get snobbed and robbed
>try and keep below 50k burgers

Noticed a tad bit of oil on the insulators of my old spark plugs. Does that warrant a valve seal replacement or no? It's a big headache to do it and the engine runs perfectly.

>mum drives a tree
get a highlander

...

i drive a v6 tiburon and i've noticed a few times when shifting up close to the redline there's like a barking sound as i put the clutch in, but it's coming from directly in front of me, and only happens from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th, but not from 1st or from 4th+

the car is mechanically sound and i have limited knowledge of car noises.

I just found a minor dent on my hood and a huge deep scratch on my trunk.

What should I get to fix it?

Volvo v90 seems good here

my diligence autism is tingling, so i'm wondering about getting one of those things. i never tried it, but paiting it and putting it together sounds nice. So, any simple and interesting ae86 n2 paint jobs you guys would suggest for it?

Not 100% sure here but I think a compression test would tell you if it needs to be sealed.

>curbed wheel
I got a whole front left side replacement and now it squeaks when I drive. How do I make it stop?

What kind of luxury car can I get for 25K that won't be a bitch and a half to maintain/repair?

Buying replica star shark wheels... Yay or nay?
m.ebay.com/itm/112410899440?NAV=HOME

any thoughts/opinions on a Mazda 6 2008/2009 GH1 series ? about to bite the bullet and get one soon, cheers in advance Veeky Forums

Carbon build up

How do you choose a coilover?

Obviously I'm not going to get something like racelands, but I was wondering is there anything more to them than just camber, caster, damper and height adjustments?
Not sure what kind of springs/rates to get if i mostly DD but want to be able to do weekend track days. BC claims their coilovers will do just about anything out of the box from autox to rally

what can you tell me about the 2006 lexus Is 220d SE? Found one and I like how it looks but know nothing about lexuses.

Ease of adjustability

Would Veeky Forums rather have an 08 g37 with 77k miles on it OR an '10 genesis coupe 3.8 with 54k miles? Why?

Alright thanks, that's a good step

The g37

More power and it's not made in korea

G37, maybe a slight bit more relieable, and more power with a bigger aftermarket.

touch up paint, clear coat, scratch remover, polishing compound, and wax for the scratch. as for the dent, if you can ignore it, just live with it.

>BC claims their coilovers will do just about anything out of the box from autox to rally


I wouldn't go so far as to say that, but BC's I have on my 540i are indistinguishable in terms of feel, from the stock Msport suspension I had on it originally, with the bonus of being lighter, having adjustable damping rates and being able to drop it 2ins.

I did go with a higher Spring rate, I believe 12k in the front and 10k in the back, and swift springs and the ride is still comfy at 14clicks on the adjusters.

What are some more autistic, cringeworthy weeaboo trash license plate ideas for my new car?

So far I've only thought up WAIFU and PANTSU, but PANTSU is unfortunately taken. Need some more ideas to destroy what little respect anyone had left for me

>looking at 2001 2.5RS
>guy says it's completely stock except for coilovers
>sends pic related
What the fuck happened to the intake? It looks like the cut it off and packed a filter into it. Does anyone know if this a a real mod kit, or just as hackey as it looks?

We call that nigger rigging where I'm from.

...

I've asked before, but what are some suggestions for good looking and reliable brands of wheels for an R33 Skyline? They will have to deal with a gravel driveway, and I'm looking for 16" rims (one inch smaller than what I've currently got equipped).

Pic related it's my car with current wheels equipped. I'm not a huge fan of them but they aren't complete eyesores, just kind of meh to me.
>tfw buying the car the owner had white Honda wheels equipped
>he wasn't selling them with the car
>tfw I could have been driving a Skyline with red-badged Honda wheels if I'd bartered a little more

Given these choices which should I buy?
All new model years
>Toyota 86/BRZ
>Miata
>Civic Hatch Sport
>Fit Sport

new Miata hardtop. It's the only real choice.

Does the milage not matter for you?

not big into cars

so I was being dumb and speeding today and had to brake pretty hard a few times

my brakes overheated I think and were a bit smelly
also when I pulled home I noticed my braking power was a little bit less

are my brakes fucked?

I also have a break question, just recently installed new pads and rotors but them shits are squeaking sooo much. What did I do wrong?

what about the hardtop makes it cost 11k more than the softtop tho? that price jump is ridiculous and no amount of jap dudes in a commerical making it sound 'samurai-esque' will change that

What's the difference between a sports car and a GT car? Are they mutually exclusive?

I'd rather have the better car with slightly more mileage 2bh

did you clean the rotors thoroughly before install? They are covered in cosmoline to prevent rusting on shelves. The squeaking should go away on its own after a while as the cosmoline burns off, but you should always clean your rotors before install.

could be that your pads were already pretty old before you were retarded. jack your car up and pull the tires off to check the brakes. google if you don't know how to do these things.

The difference is only 23k miles. It's not that serious.

How easy is it to buy a 31 year old car in VT with a clean title and register it in MA?

Reposting from /ccg/

So... This fucker is stuck. After beating on it for a while, I rented a pickle fork and stuck it in there and beat on that for a while and have made zero progress. Ideas? I've wailed on it with a hammer, wailed on a pickle fork stuck in there with a hammer, and none of that has worked so far. Next step when I start tomorrow is heat the fuck out of it and wail on it with a hammer. Failing that, cut the stud off and drill it out. And failing that, buying a new pitman arm.

Cleaned them with break cleaner and lubed all necessary parts. The squeak is god tier annoying it literally never goes away

Converting a KA24DE to carb and running it without the ECM.

How hard is this to do?

It's going in a '71 DJ5B with the 5 speed for shits and giggles.

heat and more hammer

maybe put the nut bad on and tighten it until it snaps. cut the bottom with sawzall. then go at it with a drill extractor

Thoughts on power shifting?

I could have this off in less than half an hour assuming there's a decent arc to swing a hammer. You will never learn to do it if you never do it. This belief that there's some magic potion is gonna mean you never get better, just knock the cunt out

My turbo SW20 got rear-ended, and insurance is declaring it a total and giving me around half the market value ($3500) for the car. I'm keeping what's left, and I'd eventually like to swap the gen 3 3S-GTE into an AW11 so I can still feel like I have my car. Where would I start learning how to do a job like this?

Its stupid and you're going to break something.

>Subaru
>king of snow
>king of safety
>cvt for mpg
Forrester is closest to sequoia

hardtop has the GS trim standard. means you cant have a hardtop without the performance shit on it

Lincoln town car from some old guy for like 5k. Any used acura or lexus or buick. Stay awayfrom anything german. I personally drive an 05 buick rendezvous (inb4 soccer mom) and it is easily the comfiest vehicle ive ever been in (including cadilac, mercedes, bmw, lincoln) and they are cheap as shit. 25k is a gigantic budget.

Fiesta is better than civic or fit. 86 vs miata depends on what you need. Is it a daily? Or 2nd car for fun? Miata is way lighter ild personnaly go with that.

on an e46, are the front door hinges for the sedan and the coupes the same?

>drives an American car
>it's a fucking Buick
>over 10 years old
At what point did you feel the need to weigh in on someone buying a luxury car? Or any car for $25k?

Lexus is-f
Lexus ls460 - less than 20k now

fuck fiestas and fuck ford

what makes fiestas better/more desirable than both civics and fits lmao

>Fun
Miata
>Fun and practical as daily driver
86
>Practical at the expense of fun
Civic
>I do not enjoy driving but just need a car for getting around and doing my shopping
Fit, or just get something used and pat yourself on the back for the savings.

Need more info, as specific as possible pl0x. Does it happen just as you move the lever to get it into gear, when the gear is already starting to go in/engage, how loud it is, for how long it happens, high pitched or low pitched, does it seem to come from right side or left side or any other etc that you can provide, shyamalam

If I'm interpreting this right, you replaced all or most of the suspension bits on that corner of the car? In that case, sounds like bushings are binding, you may need the proper type(s) of grease(s) applied to the right spot(s)

In any case, really, things are rubbing and there's a lack of lubricity. See what conditions make the sound happen, searching that on the internet should help a good bit

"Good looking" is subjective really

Something not too flimsy/cheap, by Sparco? They're supposed to be alright
If not, rally wheels my nigga, OZ and Method are used by everyone. Or steelies, because yes

>How hard is this to do?
Need spark. Got spark without ECU?
Is it throttle body injection, or multi-point fuel injection? If you don't have something like a throttle body injection, you'll need a place/manifold where to put carby and ensure equal amounts of air/fuel mixture get to cylinders

Don't know how bad the damage is, but you're trying to basically rebuild half a car, then swap engine and transmission, right? Easy, get some chassis design books, then some books on car collision repair, then some on welding and fabricating, then something on swapping engines, though that's not so much something you learn from a book, as much as make a comprehensive checklist

There's a LOT to learn if you want to do it properly. I'd try to find someone who can unfuck the car a bit first, then have a hand at it, if it's me who has to do it

Godspeed, etc

What to do if your gearbox gets notchy? Occasional grinding? Is it ever anything besides synchros? What happens when synchros get worn? Are your only options to 1) drop the transmission, or 2) deal with it? Also, how the fuck does a stationary car grind when going to reverse? Why?

Sup Veeky Forumstists. A buddy and I are SRT4 swapping an AW11, and we're not sure what to do with the 4A-GE after it's out. We're considering throwing it on craigslist but I have no idea what it's worth. Anyone know what a non-running 4A-GE 16v bigport + working 5spd transmission go for these days?

Skyline wheels bro here, thanks for the advice. I might have a look at Sparco. I just mostly need something that is durable for a daily driver the gets a little dirt as well. I'm not afraid with slightly weeby looking wheels since it's a Skyline and that's kind of order of the day with a car like that. I mostly don't like the wheels I have on it now because they look more like they're made for a Commodore or something. Ideally I'd prefer to get something black or maybe alloy.

Thanks for the option regardless I'll have a look into Sparco.

>>Practical at the expense of fun
If you can't have fun in a Civic, you can't drive.

Does anyone here have any experience with the central locking system on W124 Mercs, namely with the vacuum system. The pump under the rear seat seems to be working but there is no suction to close the passenger side doors or the rear door on driver's side. There being a leak somewhere with the suction tubes seems likely but I have no idea to where to look from. Are there any common problem ares with this I should check first?

Civic or bugeye wrx?

The g37 is only faster to 60 by about 0.2 seconds, uses premium fuel $$, and has higher insurance costs $$... I think the hyundai wins here.

Also correct me if im wrong about the insurance rates being higher on the g37... Im not sure but seems like it would be.

You wouldn't put premium fuel in the genesis? I guess you shouldn't be buying either car, and no they both fall under luxury vehicles, insurance should be very similar

which would you prefer Veeky Forums?

2007ish Honda CR-V or 2006ish Nissan X-trail?

What's this weird shit in the roof of my convertible? Pretty sure it isn't mold.

mold

Another pic.

Important question here.

Senario: buying a 10k car, paying 5k down, financing the remaining 5k.

If im paying 5k down will the dealers still try to finance me for the full 10k and THEN take a 5k payment? Or should they take the 5k down off the total price of the car first and then only finance 5k...?

Whats the correct procedure? I do not want to be bamboozled.

I dont think the genesis requires premium...?

And the genesis coupe is concidered luxery?? How the fack? Its way cheaper car, so insuring it should cost less... Right?

Looks like mold senpai. Mix some dish soap, white vinegar, and some water in a container and scrub that shit with a brush or a rag. Dry it.

mold

Why would you not be putting premium in the car?

Have them take the 5 off first.

If they fincance for the 10 and take your 5 after the principle of the loan is 10, which means you'd pay more in intrest down the line

Granted if the term of the loan is short enough then it shouldn't matter

Would a DeatschWerks DW300 fuel pump properly fit in my 97' volvo 850 turbo?

But standard procedure is taking the down payment off of the total price first?

And if they try to do the opposite then they are pulling a fast one?

Are volvo c30 2.0 diesel any good? Looking for something to mostly use on the city to school but also go on trips with my family with. Is the room on the back that little? How does this look?

Yeah the standard should be that they pull the down off first, and if they aren't doing that I'd think it's pretty damn shady.

The whole point of a down payment is that you're borrowing less than you initally would, so you don't need to pay interest on it.

If they try to have you finance for 10k when you put 5 down then they're trying to collect intrest on money you didn't borrow.

Why is it so mad?

Veeky Forums shat all over 86, he's making a serious face so you won't do the same with him

Insurance has more to do with the type of car, how new it is and the demographic that drives it. Luxury has less to do with the premium cost, and more to do how likely itll be totalled.

Do you think a mechanic would appreciate it if I put a haynes/chilton manual in the car for them? I'm sure they have most, if not all, the info they need on a computer or something (and from experience)

Most reverses have no synchros, you can change the fluid which may or may not help, and to change the synchros the trans will have to be dropped and the case opened to replace them.

Other possibilities include a weak or leaking master or slave that's not pushing hard enough, and old brake fluid thats absorbed water.

Probably not, the doors are larger on the coupes, you can go to realoem.com and compare part numbers if you're uncertain.

intadesting

im tryna put lambo doors on a sedan, i bet the coupe set would be even better because the hinges would have to be made stronger, but then the angles to open would be odd

So a luxury would thus have cheaper insurance costs than say a camaro? What about a non luxury econo box? Likee a civic.

I've read up on it a bit since and it looks like I need to swap the distributor, shaft, and oil pump out of an L20B.

I wonder if I can use a Z24I dizzy and just run 4 plugs on it since I can find those just about anywhere.

I need to replace o2 sensors in my car, but I don't know how to fix shit. Only know how to check things and make sure stuff isn't broken. Should I buy my own o2 sensors and take it to a mechanic for them to install it?

forgot image, it's also a 4cyl similar to the KA, but has 8 plugs for some hooptie ass 80's emissions

should be able to just swap the distributor cap if theyre similar enough right? or just plug the extra holes?

If it's a sedan with less power yes. Same goes for the Civic it's not classified as a sports car.

Is there any discernible difference between the basic auto stores or should I just go to whoever is closest to me?

I'd say buy one and take it to a mechanic. Typically they're a pain in the ass to get out and if you aren't careful you could Dame the new o2. And they are usually pretty expensive depending on the car. If you wanna tackle it then get some penetrating oil and a 22mm wrench and try.

It's for a 2004 V6 mustang, and from what I saw they're about $25 each. Though I forget which sensors exactly I need to replace.
Should I buy a code reader for my car?

Is it really that sketchy to buy a used hybrid? I'm looking at a 2006 highlander with 100k+ on it and I'm not sure wether or not I have to worry about dealing with a dead/dying battery that would cost like 3k to replace.

Just take it it to oreilly or AutoZone. They will let you borrow a code reader. I'm gonna assume you have 4 o2 sensors ( bank 1&2 upstream and downstream) the downstream ones should be pretty easy to get to. Upstream (before the cat) might be harder.