How do I haggle? I called up a toyota dealership and they have a toyota CPO car for 15k $...

That was the entire point of my original post though? What am I supposed to say to them? Can you tell me the exact sentences? I know this sounds autistic but I am way too sheltered. They'll see right through me. I mean these guys haggle everyday then theres me.

Are you trying to keep your monthly payment low? A higher down payment will keep your monthly payment low but it's more money out if your pocket. I suppose the best way to not get screwed over is to be clear about what you want and question everything they tell you.

Alright. When haggling with the price the less said the better. We have a little rule when negotiating. The first person to talk loses. Tell them the best you can do is $15k out the door. Be firm about it and see how close they can get.

Yeah, by the time I get around to buying the car I'll have enough for a good chunk of down payment while still sitting comfy, so I figure there's no downside to the higher down pay.
I'm just wondering if there are any common traps dealers try to catch you with, or if there are any good times or resources for buying things new.

How much down payment and how expensive a car?

Looking at a 25-30k car, probably 15k down.

"Pack the back end"
Finance isn't fucking magic you could send me down there for as long as you want and you wouldn't get me to buy an extra fucking thing I didn't want.

OP the ONLY things that matter are your interest rate and the price of the car.

START with demanding tier 1+ interest regardless of your score.
THEN ask for at least $1k less than invoice. ask to see their invoice, or the price they paid for the car. If they don't show you just get up and go to another dealership.

same guy didn't realize this was a used car
if they're asking 15k and you give it to them they'd be the happiest people on the planet. There is LOADS of profit to be made on a used car. DEMAND their invoice on the vehicle. Find out how much they paid and DEMAND to pay at least 1k less than that.

I'll be paying for the entire car. No financing. Don't ask me why. How do i haggle given the situation

It is a 2016 Camry though. CPO nonetheless. Ive been monitoring Camrys for about a mpnth. People are willing to pay 13-15k for 2012-2014 for gods sake. Are they really worth that much? Kbb says 17.5k for the car I am looking at? Shouls I go for a new car?

Of course theyre not worth that fucking much. You could get a great premium or is350 for that. People pay that much because they're morons and lol toyobrah

tbhwufam I'd need to know more about you and your situation. What's this car for? why do you want to pay 15 grand for a camry?

I honest to god was a Toyota salesman as recent as this spring b4 going back to college for this semester.

Gt premium

Car is to get to work. I take uber pool everyday which costs me 50$. Bus takes about 1hr 40 minutes. My job is very mentally draining so I don't want to go around vetting cars from craiglist.

Car in question is a 2016 camry with 36k miles. CPO from the official franchise dealer.

Is this a bad deal? If so, why?

I just don't think paying 15k in cash for just something to get you point a to b is the best idea. Especially something that will only go down in value. I know you said don't ask, but why do you want to pay cash? Why can't you make payments? it's really honestly a good idea if you aren't paying too much in interest, or best case scenario find a car with 0%.

There's no invoice on a used car. You'll never see how much they have into a used car. Don't bother asking for one. There is a rock bottom price on the car, you just have to work to get to it. As for the finance extras, they'll try to work that into the deal before you even make it to the finance office. I see it every day. You don't have to believe me.

so a dealership didn't buy the used cars on their lot? they don't have a record of what that car cost them? they know exactly what that car is worth and if the people you're dealing with want to chalk up a sale and move on, they'll tell you.

>you: umm yeah, I really like the car but it's a bit out of my budget, I'd have to wait a few months before I can pay for it. I could take it tomorrow though if you could go a bit lower, say [$2K lower than you have].

>them: sorry we cannot go that low, but we could meet at [just the money you have] if you really can take it tomorrow

Also mention you have offers in other places, it usually helps.

They bought the car but it's not a new car. They don't have to show you anything. Not to mention the fact that if you demand to pay $1000 less than what they paid they're just gonna tell you gtfo. What business do you know of to take $1000 loss on anything? Why would you expect that of a dealership?

Where do I get something that has already been inspected and smogged? Most Craiglist cars breakdown frequently unless you know what you are looking for.

What is the difference between making payments over time and paying everything at once? Im not going to invest it anything.

I can onlg pay cash since I can't get a credit card. Unless you can lease on a debit card?

My credit score is none since I was an international student until recrntly.

Any advice given this situation

This. But don't forget the tax and licencing costs. Factor that into the overall price and keep in mind that as the price of the car goes down, so does the amount of fees you pay.

The same business that puts cash fucking money into literally everyone's pocket for moving units.
My dealership would lose 1700 fucking dollars on a goddamn camry and after some huffing and puffing the desk would just smile and say, "well kid you're up to 14, one more and you get your 15 unit bonus this month and I'm one step closer to mine as well".
they need to move cars or they get FIRED

How much is reasonable? Can I say 15k out the door for a 15k car or am I pushing it??

The difference is whatever your interest rate is. That's it. Find a new car you like with 0% available for a long term loan (google), then walk in there with a big swinging dick and get a screaming good deal.
BUT only if you think it'd be okay to make whatever that payment is every month for the duration of the loan.

Since you were a salesman what is your take on the car I mentioned? Am I overpaying for it?

I can't finance a car at all. It is a very personal reason. I have to pay cash. I'd love to get a lexus but I don't have that much cash lying around and I need a car ASAP. I know me saying that I can't finance sounds weird but you have to believe me.

If I only bought something using cash, then something within 15k is my best bet. I've looked at many many different cars and settled at this camry. Do you have any other options under 15k that I could take a look at? I live in the bay area.

Depends on the dealership pal. My dealership is focused on gross profit as opposed to units moved. Not every dealership is happy to take a lot to move a unit. The salesmen doesn't control the price anymore than the customer. It's a about the people on the desk. If they don't want it they can kick the deal. Not every dealership has those types of bonuses.

This isn't making any sense to me. You want a car to get you from point a to b and that's it. Why on Earth would you spend 15k to do that? And on a fucking Camry of all cars. You could get a Camry for 5k and it would be just as reliable as a 2016. I'm sorry it makes no sense to me. If you're gonna spend that much at least get something that's somewhat interesting at least.

Can't hurt to try.

I can't get a camry for 5k from a dealership. I don't want to deal with private parties. I don't have a car to go around vetting each car I find on craigslist. I work from 8 to 6:30 5 days a week. I just don't want to deal with check engine lights and the dmv thing. I thought CPO toyota would give me the peace of mind. Besides, given the rates at which older camrys are selling , even though I am buying it for 15k I'll be sure to sell it for atleast 8-10k after a few years. What do you think?

YOU'RE IN CALIFORNIA HAHAAHA SUCK IT OTHER GUY ITS THE FUCKING LAW THEY HAVE TO SHOW YOU THE INVOICE!!!!
anyway...
It's probably a lease return, which means it's only had one other owner. It's got low miles. it's going to be reliable and comfortable etc.

Go drive it and if you're in love, come back the next day (they will try their hardest to get you to commit right after the test drive).

If the next day you want it, go back and ask for 1k below what they paid, they'll either cave to something near that, or they won't and you'll have to hold firm and keep asking for a very very very low price (invoice or lower). Eventually they'll either come clean and say hey this is the honest to god best we can do at XYZ (which should be pretty damn close if not exactly what they paid). Or they'll try and add a bunch of shit packages you don't want to keep the finance (paperwork) guy happy.
Who is also a salesman by the way! he will try to sell you warranties etc while you're in his office doing all the paper work.

however
as said, not everyone is going to want to give you a set your pants on fire deal. BUT those people do exist. If these guys wont do it, someone will.

I think you are grossly overpaying for "peace of mind" but it's your money. You could get a cheap af Camry, fix it up and it won't cost youll probably spend half of what you have now

And if you're going to get rid of the car after a few years what's the point of buying a Camry for this much anyway? Also good luck trying to sell your Camry for 10k. Most people in the market for Camrys either want something cheap or brand fucking new, or close to it. At that price range there are far better options.

Dude. You sound like you don't want to leave a paper trail of any sort. What are you, isis?

Considering pulling the trigger on this car, but it seems to be to good of a deal. Do you think the dealership will try to tack on extra shit?

bobtomesford.com/new/Ford/2017-Ford-Mustang-c395189a0a0e0ae8294096d175c08e31.htm

I plan on maybe putting 10k down and financing the rest through my local credit union at about 1.9 percent IIRC.

He's probably one of those dreamers that's about to get deported, since he's in commiefornia and all

Look OP, as a guy who always went to used car dealerships, as soon as you enter their facility they will NOT let you leave their place empty handedly. These salesmen will do whatever in their power to make a beneficial deal for both parties so you can pay for it. Deny until you reach the ultimatum question.

Dealer will always try to tag on extra shit. Not all of it is useless shit but if you don't want it, be clear about it and when they bring you your payment information ask for a breakdown of the information. My dealership has a a paper that shows where every dollar is going. Price of the car, discounts, incentives, your down payment, finance charges, tax, licencing and every little fee. Go for something like that. Other than that they have to sell the car at the advertised price or they're falsely advertising and can be sued. They'll try to make their money back just question everything.

$15.5 OTD
I managed to get a firm OTD from the internet sales manager via email. When I came to the dealership, said manager was not available so another salesman handled my purchase. Nigga tried to sell me a new car, then tried to sell me the CPO vehicle for +$700 pretax (lel)
Pulled out my phone and showed him the previous guy's offer.
Also
>toyota
Be prepared to pay extra $600 or so on top because they have installed lojack. I was told they weren't allowed to disclose they have lojack installed until after a certain point in the negotiation. Sounds like bullshit but whatever. Still seeing how much it would take off of my insurance premium.

Any other advice before I take the jump. Thanks everybody

Man i was negotiateing the price of a car a couple months ago with the manager of the whole damn chevrolette dealership.... It got real intense and the dude was trying to strong arm me and i walked over 500 bucks. 2 days later he called me back and and accepted my offer. I told him no thanks and left a bad review.

What are the most common times for companies to throw out rebates for new cars?
I want to know when the ideal time to go in on a new car is, if ever.

If the car has a high resale value (i.e. grocerymobiles) you're not looking at a big rebate. But it's usually around this time of year to make room for next year's model

How about sport/luxury stuff like the 3-series and all its competitors?
Are there any other good strats or offers I should look out for if I'm buying new?

>I should look out for if I'm buying new?
Standard Veeky Forums answer: don't buy new
My answer: buy new if it's at most 15% of what you make in a year
t.grocerymobile daily driver-er