Got recent model car

literally what happened to me last week

Okay now i know what that button does

You can disable it on Fords.

It's a scam

Stopping and starting an engine constantly causes extreme wear to it

They want you car to die at 100k.

Are you a ghost?

>t. m night shamalamalyan

Not on any car made after the 80s

How the fuck do you not know what a start-stop system is?

>engine goes off every time i come to a stop
The stop/start engine is one way car makers Game The System in order to improve EPA mileage test results. Of course it causes a lot extra wear and tear on the engine, starter, and battery. You also get a burst of oil pressure which might cause a hole in the cheaper oil filters that don't use a wire mesh to reinforce the filter.

Some of the earlier model cars to appear with this obnoxious feature do not have any ability to turn off the feature. BUT there is a workaround. When you come to a stop, just as you slow down to the final bit, don't press the brake pedal all the way down. Trial and error will let you know how much to push on the brake pedal to hold the car still without triggering the stop.

I call your Pringles and raise you a popcorn K&N filter.

>If you mostly do city driving it will kill your battery
I have a lot of short trips, and I am often topping off the battery at home every so often. The battery charge slowly declines as the trips aren't enough to fully recharge the battery. So by the end of the week, the battery is down to about 60% charge remaining as estimated by the battery charger.

Interesting, That means the system uses a pressure switch, and that switch might be defeated.

If you unplug the pressure switch it may not pop a fault code unless the system expects a fixed resistance from an unpressurized switch.

If you, you could ohm check across the switch, then connect the switch plug to a matching resistor(s) instead of the switch.

Couldn't a tune just disable this annoyance? I know through tuning you can turn off the cylinder deactivation thing alot of companies are putting in so I doubt this would be any different

>Look at 2006 ford fuckedus non-serviceable Air box
Ford does some wacky designs. Still buy their cars to beat on.

>Ecu checks app sensor reads nominal when no pressed
>Ecu checks pressure switch
>Code triggered

>engine goes off every time i come to a stop
Is this a temporary fad by the car manufacturers? Or will all new cars eventually be this way?

Only around until ICE dies out

>>Not on Fords, probably true for other cars as well.

Lolwut?

I'll make sure not to miss it

It does not damage your engine in any way but one does not need to explain something on Veeky Forums.
Also it does save gas. In yuropoorean cities especially.

If you stop 10 times on average in a trip you are literally using your starter 10 times as much as any other car, which also means more battery drainage. Other than that yeah the engine probably wont shit out from starting and stopping any time soon.

enjoy replacing your starter after 80k miles

>Start up wife's new car with push button start
>Immediately press the auto stop start button to disable the most useless feature ever imagined

It's routine now. I wish the setting would save across starts, but it doesn't.

They added beefed up starters to cars but that doesn't protect against natural engine wear from additional starts.

I honestly believe it's a win-win for manufacturers as it serves as a way to cheat EPA mileage estimates in the city while simultaneously causing increased engine wear in the spirit of planned obsolescence.

>Turbocharger is hot
>Come to a stop
>Engine turns off
>Oil supply cut off
>Turbocharger damaged
Go take your bus tomorrow morning you retard.

>mfw seeing a Renault with a starter/alternator system
>tiny ass fan belt has to be stretched so hard it almost rips
>"works on small engines m8, very efficient"
>starter/alternator lasts 4 years at best and costs 1000€ to replace in a shop

Ok, but how about when you park your car and turn it off, it's literally the exact same situation. And it's not like you're gonna go from 11k rpms straight to zero.

>It does not damage your engine in any way
only when it's warm. constantly starting a cold engine / preventing it from warming up quickly is definitely harmful.

I don't park my car every ten seconds.

When I drive a turbocharged car I wait a minute at my drive before I turn it off.
My N/A car i wait like 5-10 seconds before turning off.

Problem is you're doing significant damage to your turbos when you're turning your turbo car straight away. And MOST new cars have turbochargers nowadays they also come with start stop shit.

>If you mostly do city driving it will kill your battery

That's pretty retarded because isn't the idea to save fuel in between stopping and starting in the city?

>direct injection
+
>start stop crap
+
>only short city trips
this only works because people just get a new car before the engine commits sudoku. I would never buy a modern car with over 100k miles on the clock.

>I wish the setting would save across starts, but it doesn't.
It cannot until Pruitt manages to change that requirement. That is because the EPA said that if it was savable, then they would not allow the car manufacturers to claim the feature increased mileage and reduced pollution. The EPA is well aware that once turned off, very few people would MANUALLY turn it back on.

As for proof, it is reasonable to assume that the more one does of something, the more wear will occur due to that something. The trip distance from the home to the store or work has not changed. But the number of times the starter was engaged has increased a substantial number of times. And the number of times the engine was shut down increased. And the number of times the engine was restarted after oil had flowed back down into the reservoir has changed as well. It doesn't matter if the oil is hot or cold (other than hot oil is a lot thinner than cold oil). When restarting a hot engine, the oil pressure is still zero PSI at the start and the incompressible oil wedges have yet to form again due to the PSI causing new oil flow to support formation of the oil wedges between the angular moving parts.

There is also heat soak of the oil in the turbo from that start/stop feature.

Ive learned to put it in my routine, like pulling my seat belt, to switch off the start-stop before setting off. It pains me whenever I forget it and after a spirited drive the shit turns off the engine with 107°C oil with the tarbu still crispy and sizzling. Then I have to start up again to let the fluids flow some more... I should talk to a mechanic about hardcoding the shit off, i.e. reversing the "off" button into an "on" button.

Also this, I go an extra kilometer or 5 (on cold nights) before coming home to make sure my oil is warm, even if I change gear at 2,5k, I believe in short drives killing engines, turbocharged ones especially. Ive already had the turbine repaired once within half a year of ownership.
>the mechanical jew tries to sell you on long-life oil with 30k km changing intervals
Fuck off, Ill change my oil every 10k thank you.

I dont believe any additional engine wear comes from a properly designed engines. Hybrids dont have any issues with engine wear and they can start and stop their engines multiple times a minute during city driving. However for a 12v battery i believe it would be more stressful.

>the mechanical jew tries to sell you on long-life oil with 30k km changing intervals
the reason is because advertising comparing the "cost of ownership" needs costs to be as low as possible. in my opinion, frequent heat soaking of the oil in the turbo (from stop/start engines) causes increased degradation of the oil. so there's no way that I would accept Mobil1 Annual Protection oil to go for 20K miles or one year before an oil change. and if you read the fine print, the oil wimps out for severe service situations so it might as well be just like any other synthetic oil if the Mobil company doesn't stand behind their oil for severe service (stop/start engines).

that's the thing though, new hybrids are running on 48V and have their starter generator on the crank shaft. that's completely different than having your normal starter+flywheel with a 12V battery. still it remains to be seen how long those last.

Cousin has 2016 Focus 1.0 Ecoboost, can't be disabled on that car.

With my 2016 Chevrolet Malibu, it can't be disabled. But the 2017 with additional option packages came with a feature to disable it. But the base model is the one the EPA tested and it can't be disabled on that one. It is my understanding that the EPA tests the base model for the MPG rating.

>isn't the idea to save fuel
Save fuel. Sell batteries and starters.

I would have thought the ems would monitor battery voltage and current to avoid that very situation. Imagine the lawsuits!

>It does not damage your engine in any way but one does not need to explain something on Veeky Forums.
Companies are being forced to add this by the government. You SRSLY think they didnt cut corners?

Mfw just purchased a new Chevy Trax for my mom.

Mfw I ensured it had the least amount of bullshit techno-faggotry it could.

I don't want a computer on wheels motherfucker, I want a fucking car.

does your mom care at all or is that just your autism?

>mfw some new money city dweller never drove his v8 for longer than 5 minutes, probably never revved over 3k
>DI into cold chambers basically filled the crank case with petrol
>until one day it exploded
that engine was completely wrecked kek

Nah, she legitimately was trading in an Escalade ESV and didn't want a gigantic high-tech boat anymore. She just wanted a decent car that could get decent MPG's, be safe enough, look decent enough, and be reliable enough.

As that Veeky Forums user defending the Start/Stop Feature.said, repeated stopping and starting of the engine does not add wear and tear to the engine. He gave no proof because he didn't want to be proven wrong when his "proof" was overturned.

Another post said that after stopping, the oil is 0 psi, so it will naturally flow back down to the sump. It is reasonable to assume then that air then refills the oil passages during the stop period and air also enters the cam area and bearing areas on the upper part of the engine.

When the engine is re-started, the metal surfaces have a momentary touch because there is no oil pressure to force oil into the area between metal surfaces in order to re-supply oil to create an oil cushion that stops metal from rubbing against metal.

It is reasonable to assume that repeated start/stop cycles repeats this situation.

Don't most cars will start/stop have an electric oil pump anyways, so they can keep oil pressure while in a stoplight? If so, I wonder for how long it stays operational after the engine shuts off

Of course, that will help drain the everliving shit out of the battery even quicker, but still, it's a solution to the issue of raping your bearings at every single stoplight or god forbid, stop and go traffic

>start and stop car 100 times a day to save $9 in fuel over the course of a decade.
>engine has to be rebuilt every 80,000 miles. Costs $3000 each time.
Progress

>Progress
It's built-in legal planned obsolescence! And best of all, it transfers the cost of meeting EPA and DOT requirements onto the consumer instead of the manufacturer having to raise the price of the cars for more advanced materials and engineering to support more exotic methods to meet required emissions and MPG mileage targets.

I wonder what the used shitbox market will be like 15 years from now.

The stop/start engines will have a lot more "wear_and_tear" type erosion on those specific metal surfaces most affected by engine starts. And it is a sensible assumption (as with many other machines) that those surfaces most affected by starts will have more wear if the number of starts is hugely increased.

>I wonder what the used shitbox market will be like 15 years from now.
Probably not too affected by stop/start engine problems because everyone will pay more money to get the options package that includes the button to turn off the stop/start feature. People will turn off the stop/start feature and leave it off. Another saving grace is that people are moving on to using full synthetic oil instead of staying with conventional oil or partial blends.

I have a 2017 Focus RS and I can disable it in that.
The RS interior is the same as any other Focus, minus the drive modes.

>instead of the manufacturer having to raise the price of the cars
>implying $35000 is affordable

>implying $35000 is affordable
A lot of new cars are well above that price with their options packages unless you get a stripped down basic model.

Put the ac on

cars will depreciate even faster and more people will buy new cars. I should really start buying and hoarding parts for my shitboxes so I will never have to buy new cars.

>I should really start buying and hoarding parts for my shitboxes so I will never have to buy new cars.
It's not that dire for people like you who can work on a car's engine to the point of removing the head. For the typical car owner that has no DIY skills plus the fact that car makers now hoard their info and cancel warranty (if damage is seen) to prevent non-dealers from easily working on engines, the cost of a new engine replacement is competitive with a rebuild at the dealer. That cost is what kills the car which is otherwise worth repairing due to huge cost of all the options packages that were put into the car.

New cars are safer even if they car makers have that annoying new approach of using the engine as the real bumper in harder collisions.

What annoys me is parking the car and the engine stops, but then momentary starts again just as the ignition key is finally turned to the off position. It feels like churning the engine if I'm not careful to park the car.

My father would curse and swear and smash the auto start/stop button to deactivate the system every time it would shut off. He would slap the shit out of the button so hard that eventually, it broke the switch and now he is forced to live with it.

It isn't even an option to include it or not, its there in the base model...

>so many startups literally pulling your engine apart and causing wear to all components
>this system saves gas

>saving muh environment by decreasing life-expectancy of products

Cars have hit the point of disposable, except price-wise, of course. No wonder so many people lease a car for 4 years, then continue leasing the newer model of the same car. Monthly payments and no fucks given about repair costs because warranty runs out the moment the car is paid off. And thats when the "fun" starts for people in the market for used cars.

seriously, i think knowing how to fix your car is the most important thing you can do financially.

Read the instructions.

>people are moving on to using full synthetic oil instead of staying with conventional oil or partial blends.
full synthetic IS a partial blend
you probably meant 100% synthetic
irritating difference but it can put another 400k miles on a jeep

Not the poster with the broken switch, but to repair that broken switch, you have to remove the dash to access the switch assembly to remove and replace it. It's a bad sign to see in that picture other switches adjacent to that broken switch. I had a different switch cap fail (it broke) while the car was in the 3-year bumper-2-bumper warranty so I got it fixed. It's pretty scary how expensive it is since there is the labor to remove the dash which is a huge process. The dealership is large and well equipped with special tools. It has this big device that holds a whole dash steady while someone removes the bolts in order to prevent warp of any mounts. A less equipped dealership would probably have 2 people or even one remove it and the heavy dash could bend something.

My switches were riveted onto a small metal frame. So that meant all the switches and the frame were replaced. I'm glad I didn't pay out for all of that.

>constantly stopping and starting your engine cannot be good for it
The car makers are desperate for quick and easy ways to get more MPG as well as reducing carbon emissions on the EPA and EU tests. This stop/start approach is not a good solution so it feels like the car makers are "gaming the system" with this method. Sure, volkswagon tried a more drastic trick to reduce carbon emissions, but they got caught and sucked up billions of fines and people got jailed for it. At least the stop/start method is a legal way of cheating the EPA and EU tests.

It is also a fantastic way of "improving" city driving fuel economy.

I've got a question about driving turbo cars

Do you need to wait the minute to cool down if you never push the engine to boost? For example if you warm the car up, do a quick 5-10 minute commute and switch it off

I drive 10 mins to work and sometimes my oil doesnt have the time to warm up properly. I always let it idle for a bit just out of habit. If I have the time or its really cold outside, I go a bit longer until it has at least 80°C. Then on longer cruises I drive it with a heavy foot to burn out the water and dirt.

t. no actual idea about cars

The turbocharger is always spinning. It gets energy from the hot exhaust. Intake air flowing past along with the oil pump provide cooling for the entire assembly. Because the hot exhaust heats it up, the oil will always get a "heat soak" when the engine stops consuming air and after the oil pump stops.

>I doubt i'm saving that much gas too

Is there any forum or website that had people try to test the gas savings from Stop/Start over a tankful of gas? That is One tank with stop/start and One tank with the feature disabled.

Mechanic here who agrees with you. Gas is cheaper than parts and commuting kills engines.

>It isn't even an option to include it or not, its there in the base model...
I wish my car had that button.

>I'll make sure not to miss it
You look like you're eagerly anticipating it.

>engine goes off every time i come to a stop
You don't need to push the button to disable stop/start mode. When you come to a stop, coast up while applying the brakes gently. The engine will not stop if you do that. That's how much you can push the brake pedal without triggering it. I can do that reliably in my Chevy and no longer bother pushing the button. It's almost natural to me now and it's very rare that the engine will stop.

Of course, for freeway stop and go, you may push the button. OR you can practice gas saving tactics by allowing a bigger gap in front of you each time the cars take off. Simply don't accelerate so much. Then, the cars in front of you will come to a stop, but you will still be creeping up slowly eating up the gap without ever stopping. Then those cars will start moving again just as you get close to the car in front of you. If you time it right, you can continually keep on creeping forward without ever coming to a stop unless there is a particularly long stop in front of you. One advantage is that all the other cars behind you don't come to a stop and you will thus have reversed the effects of a traffic jam creating a lot of stop and go situations that waste gasoline for a lot of cars.

>constantly stopping and starting your engine cannot be good for it
When the engine stops, doesn't the oil pump also stop pumping? I don't hear any kind of electric motor running the oil pump while the engine is stopped.

there is this little stepper motor that controls air flow, it's probably dying. i mean, that's what died in my car - it's from 2002 though, so it might not apply

Where can I learn about this stuff online?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't that start/stop system drain the battery while driving in heavy traffic? Like, the alternator not being able to charge it back enough?

Not that guy, but the car is supposed to keep track of the battery and not engage the stop/start system if the battery seems low. Or so it said in my owner's manual since while the engine is stopped at night, the headlights, radio, and some other electrical devices (vent fans) and electronics are still turned on.

>Like, the alternator not being able to charge it back enough?
Not that guy, but I have a new chevrolet sedan with the stop/start system. The car has two batteries with the biggest one under the front hood and the smaller one in a side pocket of the trunk. The trunk battery runs accessory devices and cabin electronics and the front one does the starter. If the trunk battery becomes low on charge, the computer apparently sets a countdown of unknown duration so that the car can charge it back up. Once that trunk battery gets sufficient charge, the stop/start feature automatically activates itself.

I do a lot of short trips, so the batteries don't get charged up enough after the starter, electrics, electronics, and accessories drain both batteries down. After about six months of use after I bought it as a new car, the trunk battery dropped from its owner manual time of 2 minutes to now be 15 seconds or less even with long road multiple hour road trips back to back and I was careful not to energize start/stop to use that trunk battery. So I assume it has been sulfated since its duration is super short. I went to the stealership and they said over 6 months and no more battery warranty as battery is not under the 3 year bumper to bumper new car warranty once 6 months has passed. But they will sell me a new one and then charge me to install it. Ugh.

I feel nervous about trying to charge the trunk battery since I don't know if charging it will wreck any electronics. So I only hook the battery charger to the battery under the hood. I keep topping it off because after a week of city driving, it drops down to about 60% charge remaining. Since the car is obviously consuming more than it charges, I have to keep on topping off overy few days. I set the digital charger to not overcharge by not charging until it reads 100%. I usually stop charging around 94% to 96% since it is an AGM cell.