Cheapest conventional oil to buy under $20? I've been using supertech oil for a 2 to 3 changes and good so far...

cheapest conventional oil to buy under $20? I've been using supertech oil for a 2 to 3 changes and good so far, and cause its like $11 for 5 qts. Is that brand fine or should I go for something higher quality to protect my engines life? again under $20 if possible

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540ratblog.wordpress.com/
youtube.com/watch?v=uQ_vxdO_9nc
walmart.com/ip/Chevron-Supreme-Motor-Oil-5W30/46683812
twitter.com/AnonBabble

its good oil its either made by warren or kendall depending on where you live its good for the money. been using it for while.

As long as you change your oil at proper intervals, you can pretty much use whatever oil you can afford. Your engine should be fine.

As long as you change it every 3k it doesn't matter worth a shit.

Standards organizations are our bffls inherently

Only so many places make oil. Supertech is fine. The differences between brands is so minor you're better off replacing the cheap supertech 1000 miles earlier over running something with a "better brand".

>The differences between brands is so minor
The premium brands have their own proprietary additive packages. There is an oil database that periodically updates the listings with tests since oil formulations change all the time.

OIL DATABASE:
540ratblog.wordpress.com/

Dumb question but since I don't drive a lot, do I have to change the engine oil every 3 months? 3k miles take me about 4 months. I'm using full synthetic oil though.

Or should I just check manually and if its clean, I leave it alone.

How can white boi even compete?

>3k miles take me about 4 months
Highway miles are much more easygoing on the engine oil than city miles.

The 3000 mile number comes from the old days. It's a number from the previous century with older engines using lead fuel which polluted the oil with lead and other contaminants. That was also before the time of affordable synthetic oil for the normal consumer. Oil now has the "SN" standardization but back then, oil only was SE or whatever it was at that time due to the additive and refining technology. Engine oil has much improved since the days when the 3000 mile number was created as a rule of thumb.

I remember my grandfather changing oil back then. At 3000 to 3500 miles, it was pitch black from that Buick. Ahh, those were the days. I could slide underneath the car without it being jacked up. My grandpa simply put down two courses of those red bricks, then short boards for the car to drive up on top of those bricks. Voila, the car was high enough to get under to change the oil.

At 4000 miles, my oil is no where near black. It is dark due to suspended particles and the oil becoming oxidized so it is also darker itself. But on the paper towel, it still has a good hint of amber to it even if it is dark amber now with even darker blackish pigment (suspended particles). On a paper, the particles are too small to see so one might think the oil is dark. But as capillary action causes the dark amber synthetic oil to wick up the paper, the suspended dark pigments are left behind.

That's the method I use to look at the color of the oil. It's what was taught in my high school chemistry class after all.

I'm not too concerned with the differences in lubrication once the oil is properly warm and there is good oil pressure - I am worried about the lubrication efficiency when the engine is cold and the pressure is low

Most of the independent tests I've seen and read show that the Mobil1 0w40 is the best oil in terms of cold viscosity, and with the winters temperatures we have here its the one I pick

This. The guy who wrote that blog really knows his shit and he constantly updates it, even 4 years after it's original posting. You should never buy cheap oil.

Saw a video on YouTube where some guy froze 5 different brands of oil at -40 degrees, one brand was synthetic Royal purple and the other was synthetic Walmart brand. Walmart brand flowed quite a bit better at -40 compared to royal purple, just goes to show you can't fall for the meme.

Supertech is fine shitbox oil. I'd consider paying the extra $5 for Supertech synthetic if it's under 200k miles. I generally run whatever Synthetic is on clearance at Autozone/Advance (still have 6 5qt jugs of 5w30 Pentosin High Performance and a 5qt Jug of 0w40 Castrol Edge) or Rotella T6.

All going in either a E36 M3 or 2.0 WRX, both stock and both cars that tend to be hard on their oil.

The "Q&A" link at the beginning of the website has a lot of interesting questions answered.

>The guy who wrote that blog really knows his shit
He owns and runs a machine shop for professional racecars so he has no choice but to know. Otherwise, it would be many tons (literally true) of expensive failures. He tests the oil himself in a chamber where it's heated to operational temperature. The official ASTM tests used to develop the oil ratings on the oil bottles uses 100 degrees fahrenheit which is certainly not operational temperature in an engine. So one might say 540Rat's test comparison values might be more appropriate.

Picture: This is an old picture. Since oil filter construction can change from year to year based upon the actual supplier and methods, old pictures do not represent how filters are made now. But it is nice to see the Toyota filter has that "lexus quality" made in japan by autistic perfectionist look to it. And the GM AC/Delco filter is made by the same ones that made SuperTech walmart filters.

youtube.com/watch?v=uQ_vxdO_9nc

...

>supertech

>the walmart oil

cheers, just got a used truck with 30,000kms, the manual spec is 0W-20, going to start putting Quaker State Ultimate Durability Synthetic in from now on

any idea if there's similar ratings for oil filters?

go to a place that sells oil in bulk like for construction and trucking fleets

Does anyone else sell SuperTech?

>Does anyone else sell SuperTech?
It is walmart's house brand just like Members Mark is a house brand for Sam's Club and Kirkland is a house brand for Costco. However, Costco seems to treat Kirkland as a premium brand rather than as a bargain brand.

If you are looking for oil change products (oil or filter) not normally available at your local walmart, go instead to the website walmart.com and buy it there. You can use the free shipping to your local walmart retail store. After you buy it, you go to your retail store to pick it up at their product pickup service counter.

It's pretty handy as the walmart.com site has many many more products than their retail stores do. It's not amazon.com sized for different products, but it is getting there. And the free shipping is a nice touch.

>Mobil1 0w40
But why use 40 weight in the winter? Is it a consequence of europe's engine laws that 0w40 is used instead of the 0w20 in the USA?

The first number shows how it behaves when cold second number shows how the oil behaves when hot.
Since the engine has the same operating temperature in winter as in summer, the second number should be the same as well.

If your engine is made for 0w20 there is no point in using 0w40 except you run your engine pretty hot or it is almost worn out and burns oil, then you may use a 0w30, 0w40 or something like that.

>europe´s engine laws
As far as I know there is no law saying that you have to use a certain engine oil.

>Walmart Shill

>As far as I know there is no law saying that you have to use a certain engine oil.
I think the post was referring to Euro car companies and Euro laws working together to end up with a situation that makes engines using 0w40 or 5w40 oil. It does seem strange to me that similar car models sold all over the world would use different weight oils at operating temperature.

Oil gets thicker with heat?

>Oil gets thicker with heat?
You should look up motor oil viscosity if you don't know what 5W20 or 10W30 or 0W40 means. The first number relates to comparative oil equivalency at zero fahrenheit. The 2nd number is for 212 fahrenheit. ASTM wear tests are done at standard temperatures such as 100 fahrenheit but the 540Rat Oil Database uses more accurate test temperatures of 230 fahrenheit since the oil in the bearing journals will be hotter than the boiling point of coolant which is already far away in the cooling passageways.

I use supertech in my daily. Who cares.
The average fuckwit never changes his oil.
Supertech and filter every 3.5k is more than any normie scum is doing.

>dude -40
lmao it's never even below 20 where I live.

No, oil gets thinner with heat.
Before these multi range oils, ther where single range oils like 10w 20w 30w ...
Nowerdays we have oils that behave like 10w oils at 0°F and behave like 60W at operating temperature.
They get for example less thick when cold than a 15W and get less thin when hot than a 30W -> 10W40
Then you don´t need a special 0Wxx or 5Wxx, 10-15Wxx should be enough.
The issue with cheap oils how ever are poor additive packages resulting in significantly more wear, especialy on flat tapped valvetrains (OHV, OHC and even DOHC sometimes have that)
(pic related flat tapped DOHC)

>significantly more wear
Significantly more of almost nothing? Every car is going to burn rings or spin a bearing long before you need to replace the valve train out of necessity. Economy cars have hardly any valve strain the cams are docile and the springs are weak.

You're taking information from a racer where insanely aggressive cam profiles and extremely stuff springs chew through the valve train like they're copper.

For an economy car it makes literally no difference they all burn rings first because nothing is strained.

what am i supposed to be looking for in this pic to know what is better quality

They burn rings faster with worse oil, leading to either a huge repair bill or complex repair.
Another issue might be valve lash since that is wear related as well...

Breh

If you're still wondering, full synthetic is good for a year or 7500 miles, which ever comes first. However, this recommendation assumes that you regularly drive more than about 5-10 miles on the highway, at least once a week. Water vapor and gasoline will build up in the oil when the engine is cold and will burn off when the engine is hot. Highway driving is the only way to get the engine nice and hot.

If you don't do this I would say you should be changing the oil as quickly as every 6 months or every 5000 miles, aka extreme duty applications. If you're running such short duty cycles consider getting an EV instead.

According to that 540rat guy, this is an "incredible" category oil that beats many synthetics. Seems to be slightly cheaper than supertech.
walmart.com/ip/Chevron-Supreme-Motor-Oil-5W30/46683812

It makes me wonder though if that company filled up one of their oil bottles with a specially good version of their oil for review purposes. Since 540RAT occasionally gets new oil sent to him by individuals as opposed to him buying it at his local retailers, there is a weakness in the testing method because samples are not truly randomly obtained and immune from tampering to improve test results.

Or, get a 3k civic and just remember to hit VTEC at least once a day.

On the walmart page one reviewer claims it is actually a synthetic blend and they just don't advertise it as such.