QTDDTOT - Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Threads

P0340 Sorry for taking so long to get back.

Can someone explain to me in retard terms how to use the clutch when starting to move and when slowing down/coming to a stop.
The few time I drove manual I was okay with the gear shift but these two situations confused me and the only people I know who drive stick are my parents and they're completely unable to explain things in general.

can I replace 255/70/16s with 265/75/16s on the same rims?

My friend knows a guy selling his 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS for $2,000 USD. Is it worth checking out? Is there something sporty that's better in that price range?

Engine braking downhill in a turbocharged car: the revs go up, but would that help create boost sooner when getting back on the throttle?

Different scenario, same question; going on straight road in say third gear at 5k RPM, letting off the throttle slightly, revs drop to say 4k, then immediately WOT, would I hit full boost sooner than in 2nd gear and WOT at 2k rpm?

Am I making any sense at all?

tl;dr Does being in higher RPM range help build boost sooner?

>starting to move
>Rev to about 3-5k depending on your car
>quickly but smoothly release the clutch
>floor the throttle
>shift up at redline

>slowing down
You mean for a corner?
>while breaking in the breaking zone
>press in clutch
>shift to neutral
>use heel or side of foot to blip throttle
>down shift
>release clutch smoothly after apex
>floor the throttle

>coming to a stop
>press in clutch
>shift to neutral

Why is a dually better than just wide ass tires? Besides cost of tires.

Thanks. I read somewhere that you could also release the clutch slowly until the car started moving and then press the throttle. Is that true?
Maybe it was because of my parents' low rev VW but I tried using the revving trick and I always ended up either making the tires squeal or the engine choke.

Less wear because one tire spins faster than the other during cornering? Also easier to replace faulty one while using the old one further. Availability, possibility of tire shops to stock more of same type, being able to do more repairs (more volume of tires in circulation).

Clutch blip seems pointless, if you're already slowed down you can just move from brake to throttle
>corner coming up
>brake
>down shift
>off brake, onto throttle
>take turn

>revving 3-5k
that's how you launch your car for a drag race

>heel toe down shift
that's for boiracers

More sidewalls makes them stouter which is important for carrying large loads. They also act as a failsafe in case one tire blows so that maybe the whole thing won't kill everyone. Also yeah, cost. That's really important when considering the success of literally any product in a free market.

>throttling into corner
>without understeering off of the line
That means that you've slowed down too much before the corner; don't do that slow ass bullshit and waste people's time.
If you're going to drive, do it right, or you're just endangering or annoying people.

Most corners have a stop light in America. I can't think of any turns I've taken that didn't have it. Otherwise it'll be a curve.

>Clutch blip seems pointless
youtube.com/watch?v=FnXLZg_O1rk

I asked this last thread and got some advice. Just looking for more opinions.

Honda Civic Hatchback Sport or Mazda 3 Hatch as my next car?

The technique that user described is functionally the same as the throttle blip, just without boiracer flare. As long as he's using the clutch correctly when his down shift occurs, to add to his description
>corner coming up
>brake
>clutch in
>down shift
>off brake, onto throttle
>clutch out

If you're not racing, or will never race, heel toe serves no purpose. I don't see why you can't do it for fun, but still.

It's slower and you're losing time.

Time is your most precious unrenewable resource.

>losing 2.45 seconds going to get groceries
Just shut up, I even said if you're not racing it doesn't mean anything and you still went for it

I see that on here it is extremely frowned upon to buy a new car. I can understand, as dealerships are practically unnecessary middle men and the prices see markups.

so.. what's the alternative? strictly speaking with getting a new car. is there any way to purchase a new car without a dealership?

I've never owned a Mazda, but every person I know that has owned one absolutely loved it.

> is there any way to purchase a new car without a dealership?
Buy a Tesla

It doesn't matter if it's getting groceries or getting a new lap time.
2.45 seconds 10 times a day, 5 days a week, for 10 years is still 44.35 days of your life. That's 1,064.58 hours of precious time that you'll never get back.

Civic type-R

Check your ignition system

Yes

The Civic Type-R is fucking badass, but it has no hand break, and that's fucking retarded.

m8s I'm looking for a new DD. I don't have the dollary doos to buy and DD a Type R.

>hates spending time in his car
Might want to pick another board to haunt

That's less than 30 minutes you absolute retard

>>hates spending time in his car
I just don't like driving like shit.

P0340 merely means it's not getting what it expects from engine timing.

If the vehicle had a Camshaft position sensor, then yes, it would be that to blame.
Vehicles that don't have that sensor may use ignition timing pulses to determine camshaft position for the ECU.

Which means your next step is to check spark.
Check your plugs and coils.

>what are CBV/BOVs?

What kind of cars appreciate in value? And how do they appreciate? I heard the McLaren in the pic appreciated like a lot.

As an American, is it a bad idea to buy a car not manufactured in America if you want to keep it a long time? I'm worried about parts availability.

Are there any easy and cheap mods that are good practice for beginner-tier wrenching that aren't significant enough to affect my car insurance policy and that could maybe improve my shitbox's performance even by a tiny amount?

EJ6 civic by the way

Ethanol is corn. Smell alone isn't enough, though. What does it taste like?

>Refilling oil in car for first time
>Put my car's reg in both Mobil and Castrol websites
>They say it needs 0W-30
>Check service manual
>Says it needs VW spec 502 00
>502 00 is 5W-40

So which is it?

Cars that are made in small quantities and are also good performance pieces. The McLaren's go up because there's a hundred of them.
The other way a car becomes sought-after is if it either A: is kept well for a very long time (basically rich collectors overpay for nostalgia), or B: is discontinued and pretty nice. Pontiac Solstice, for example, was not expensive, but can be worth a lot now.

Does plasti dip cause clear coat damage? Is it worth using?

I have 2 questions. One which may deserve it's own thread admittedly.
Is pic related a 1zz or a 2zz? It's an 03 and I've texted the owner but if it's a 1zz I'm probably just going to keep moving.

Can anyone give me good advice on a decent sports car for under 10k?
My last car was a 350z and I loved every second of it until some dickshit stopped on the highway in the rain. Now I can't seem to find any in decent shape or with miles that aren't sky high though.

What is a cat delete and why do it? Pros and cons.

What is a muffler delete and why do it? Pros and cons.

What is Google? Pros and cons

Best bet is a stang. But their everywhere and way too common for me to want to buy. Accord v6 coupe are not really "sport" but they have decent power. Like 280 hp or something like that. Maybe keep looking for another z, a good deal could come around. Also maybe look into a g35 2005 and up or a jag xf.

What is this common thread even for?

Buying an old car with a VIN that almost rubbed off. If I can't do something like a charcoal rub to figure it out, is bill of sale enough to get something like a classic title or tag? I'm in MD where you need the title and bill of sale to be notarized when the vehicle changes owners, not sure for something from the 60s though.

Your question literally pops up on google though, this thread is water cooler talk and things that might be too advanced for a search algorithm, or just advice from other people without joining a forum and waiting days.

I mean the OP even SAYS:

>ProTip - A simple Google search may actually answer your question.

Is it safe to use different brand of synthetic 75W85 oil for manual gearbox than recommended by FIAT?
pic related my owner's manual

My mechanic told me I have to replace wheel bearings. Do I have to do it right now, or it can wait? If the latter, how long can it wait?

And, why some kits are 10e while others 50e? Is there a difference in "performance" or safety? (Mercedes clk 200 c208)

Get whatever owner's manual say

Thinking of starting the process of getting this car today, lads. I'm in the market for getting a relatively new big comfy cruiser, and the Taurus seems like a good fit

houstoncargovans.com/2015_Ford_Taurus_Houston_TX_268571340.veh

Good buy? I'm going to see if I can get it down to $13k.

Talk to me about water cooler

Some people use after market ones, I had to mount mine in the front of a MR vehicle abs or was a pain running lines from the front to the back, but worth it in the end

Kinda interested in this one Mazda 323F/Forte.
Would the 2.0 l V6 engine be a piece of shit and unconventional in every possible way, or should I just go for it?

Pic kinda related

If you are getting wheel vibration and noise then do it now. If you cant hear or feel anything youll be fine. I had a car that was makeing loud and hard vibration in the front driver side. I had no idea what was wrong with it. I just kept driving it for months trying to ignore the sound. Finally took it to a mechanic told idk whats wrong. He went to test drive it and didnt even travel 50 yards before turning right the fuck around. Said it was wheel bearing and was shocked that i had been driving it like that.

How does water cooler work?

Should i be worried? I sometimes cant get 2nd gear in while driving my civic. Feels like theres something blocking me from moving the shifter. Only happens about once every 2 drives, putting the stick to neutral then back into 2nd gear fixes it.

Luckily I don't hear anything unless I'm doing a really hard turn. Thanks

>didn't read the post

Air hits radiator, radiator cools water, pipes send cool water to engine, cool water cools engine, engine sends hot water to water cooler, air hits radiator, radiator cools water, pipes send cool water to the engine etc etc

Gets more complicated depending on your setup but that's the gist

no
no
no
yes
yes

>car engine is super quiet, can barely hear it
>change motor mount with a lot of play
>car is loud a/f in cabin now
sounds the same from outside, accelerates and gear changes are the same as well
is this a thing?
as the new mount wears will it get quieter?
>inb4 u crushed ur flex pipe dingus
but I checked it and it looks fine
>inb4 u lifted engine too high and cvs are fucked
but they're not? they don't click or grind when i turn

Why?

What causes this? Inner brake pad on both front wheels look like that

I'm probably going to just end up waiting for a 350 yeah.
I was just hoping I was forgetting some hidden gem, kinda wish FRS/BRZ had dropped a little lower.

can i fit 255 wide tires on my f10 523i bimmer so that they fit under the factory fenders/ wheel arches/ whatever. I'm new to modding cars and mine has a really small aftermarket so i figured it'd be the simplest "mod" to do.

Should I let my car warm up in the winter before driving it, or do as I've always done? I have been in numerous debates with my friend over it, and my opinion is that it matters with a carb but not EFI.

Diesel or Petrol?

Petrol.

>Like many misconceptions, the idea behind winter car idling begins with a kernel of truth. Cars do get worse fuel economy when it's really cold out -- they are at least 12 percent less fuel efficient, according to Environmental Protection Agency and Energy Department. And it does take longer for the engine to warm up and reach an optimal driving temperature in cold weather.

>Moreover, older cars -- which relied on carburetors as a crucial engine component -- did need to warm up to work well, according to several auto industry experts. Without warming up, the carburetor would not necessarily be able to get the right mix of air and fuel in the engine -- and the car might stall out. During the 1980s and into the early 1990s, however, the auto industry did away with carburetors in favor of electronic fuel injection, which uses sensors to supply fuel to the engine and get the right air and fuel mix. This makes the problem of warming up the car before driving irrelevant, because the sensors monitor and adjust to temperature conditions.

Probably a good idea if its really cold, otherwise i dont think its necessary with a modern car.

And I think I know where you're getting at. My friend always tells me to let my car sit in the winter. I show him my new-to-me car, and he goes "Make sure you let it idle until it's warm, because it's a Pontiac". It's an 06 G6 GTP...

Don't trust self-crowned 'experts'.
If you car owner's manual (written by people that designed and built your car) doesn't mention it, then it's not necessary.

The other day I did some electrical tests. The battery came at strong 12.7V so I turned the engine on.
The alternator without any load pumps out 14ish volts, but when I turn on everything (lights, high beams, front and read fog lights and so on) it dropped to 12V without going much up.
What is going on, should I change it?

Alternator is dying. Wait until it gets colder and you start using heating, then one cold morning you won't start your car because your alternator won't be able to keep up.

Sauce? My friend needs the facts laid out in front of him.

He always lets his cars idle until they're at normal temp. In the summers he idles it while the A/C runs until the temp is very cool. In the winter he idles it until it's blistering hot inside. Justifies it by saying that it's better for the car and to ask any mechanic, "like himself".

For note, the only thing he ever has done on his own are speakers, shift knobs, pedals, and maybe a pulley or two. Oh, and that time he straight piped his chevy cruze eco...

washingtonpost.com/news/wonk/wp/2014/12/29/the-biggest-winter-energy-myth-that-you-need-to-idle-your-car-before-driving/

I am not a mechanic myself. I get my knowledge from internet research (multiple sources at once) and owner's manual. I also have a trusted real mechanic friend but I always try to verify everything he says just to be double sure. Also trying to understand how something works and applying a bit of common sense works too.

Common sense and understanding are not his strong suit. He just goes headfirst into everything claiming he's done it before, and then proceeds to break everything and blame it on everything else but friend. He's my friend, but damn if he isn't annoying sometimes.

Just accept his opinion and proceed with your own actions regardless

I still go on, but the argument comes up every time there's more than three shots involved. Getting tired of it to the point I can't drink with him. If I lay down the facts maybe I can get him to shut up about it.

An AE86 popped up on Craigslist a few hours away from me and I really wanted it but it didn't have a title so I asked when he would have the title. He basically ignored me and sold it by the next day without a title. I'm pissed that I missed out. For future reference, what happens if you buy a car with no title? I don't think it's legal where he was (NC) and I'm in VA. Probably never gonna get that opportunity again now

I know this feeling. Too many cars just pop up and go missing the next day. I guess that's the lesson for you, get your money, get your transportation ready, get your tow truck ready if needed, and THEN go shopping. I can't blame people for just selling their shit asap but it hurts when you see something cool and you're like, ok, I'll just pull my money from the bank tomorrow morning, rent a tow dolly, drive the two hours and pull the car home, let me just finish this email and...oh nvm, it just got sold

>Is pic related a 1zz or a 2zz?
What model of car?

Your synchro is dead. Time to start double clutching instead of granny shifting

Make sure your brake calipers aren't leaking

1zz

Is this a no to plastidip causing clear damage or a no to it being worth using.

>For future reference, what happens if you buy a car with no title?

In my state, it can be registered with no title and just a bill of sale if its old enough. Of course I'm sure this varies by state. Check DMV.org to be sure

>Why would there be fuses in the spaces for those factory options?
If it is an option that can be installed by the dealer later (seat swap) then it is good to keep the fuse there. One other factor is that wire looms can be standardized instead of a different wire loom for each different combination of car features! During manufacture, if the same wire loom is used, then robots or workers can simply test all the connections the same way without any difference to worry about.

Sister bought a car and didn't get the title at first. She wasn't allowed to register it in WV or PA and had to drive it unregistered with a license plate from her old car until she could convince the dealer to give her the title.

I'm a Toyota guy, helping a Ford friend fix some rodent damage to wiring. Toyota has a quite nice wiring repair manual, diagrams and part number of connectors and repair wires you can buy from Toyota. Does Ford have something similar? Ford sells connector and wire pigtails but at a ridiculous markup, we have good connector housings but the wires coming out of them are all too short to be salvageable.