What are the essential mods to make your shitbox more fun to drive? here's my ideas

>second hand wheels/tires
dude

Most essential is a good set of tires, that's the best way to go fast in one simple mod.

>poly bushings in DD shitbox
lol

why not? the cheap chink ones are fine for a shitbox.

Reliability is gay.
If you're not on the edge of your seat staring at the gauges, as sweat forms on your upper lip, every single second the engines on out of pure fear it'll break down then you've never lived.

>buy 20 year old audi
>needs new bushings
>oem ones cost $98 a piece
>poly ones made by a random guy on vwvortex cost $18 a piece

it was an easy choice

>Now the car rides like shit, wears out all electronics prematurely, and squeaks like a dying bird
I'm so glad they took lead out of our electronics, think of the children!

they didn't squeak surprisingly. the car rode hard as fuck though and it got old after a while

>breather mods detract from engine performance

Cold air intakes do like 90% of the time. Stock intakes are almost always better.

don't care
i put a big ass intake on my car and it growled like a dog when i opened the taps. i used to scare the shit out of people walking on the sidewalk

>>cold-air intake
2 hp gain that you will not feel. Will make cool noises though.
>>exhaust(cheapo muffler delete / replace muffler with a glasspack)
Absolutely NO. De-cat and headers are the only thing that will make a noticeable difference in power. Anything cat-back will just add noise and make you look like an idiot on the street.
>>lowering springs/struts
Skip this and go straight to a coilover setup. This should be #1 on the list for improving fun-to-drive factor. (It's the only thing I have done to my slow shitbox)
>>poly bushings
Cheap to buy, pain in the ass to install. No positive impacts for street driving. Skip this.
>>poly engine/tranny/drivetrain mounts
Extra vibration. No positive benefits unless your stock mounts are broken. Skip.
>>a/c delete(because it doesn't work anyway)
If it doesn't work, sure. Weight savings never hurts. Working a/c is a life saver in the summer regardless of where you live. Choose wisely.
>>second hand momo steering wheel
Only if your stock wheel is not round or something.. I suggest looking into a bolstered seat before a new wheel, but avoid a full race bucket if you daily the car. Getting in and out comfortably should be high on the priority list.
>>second hand wheels/tires
Tires should be #2 on the list (arguably #1, but soggy suspension is still shit with good tires). Skip the aftermarket wheels unless they weigh less than your stock ones (for an equal diameter size). Big wheels will only slow you down.

>spending more on mods than you spent on the car

Agreed, never a good idea. Save up for a better vehicle.

>Dude says to get coilovers and tires
>costs more than your car
Wew lad.

That should run $3k tops for good stuff, and yes that's not cheap, but how many cars out there worth driving are under 3k?

>how many cars out there worth driving are under 3k?

1st gen Audi TTs are getting to be sub-3k

I bought the shitbox i was referring to for $1200 and the coilovers are used name brand made in Japan and cost me $500. Still not worth more than the car.

you can get chinese knock offs of all that stuff

Clapped out first gen TT's.
Also the TT is gay.

there's a rusty one with 210k miles on it for 2800 near me haha
would consider it if i had the money

you'll have to routinely lubricate them or you'll have squeaks eventually

roll bar removal

Impreza RS coupes are 1500 dollars around here.

synthetic transmission fluid

No they're not.
They $5k for a rusted out pile.

Where do you live?

Are aftermarket head units still a thing, or did that die out after the mid 00s?

The shit I'd do for aftermarket performance on my Jeep XJ
>Snorkle intake
>6"-8" lift kit
>33" Super Swampers for the 6" lift, up to 35" for the 8"
"Custom Exhaust Header that has 2 outputs, each going to a glass pack hidden inside lake pipes.
>New axles with locking differentials.
>Better aftermarket stereo with good subwoofer
>Roll Cage

They're still a thing but depending on the car the factory one may not be removable

>Snorkle intake
For what purpose?
>6"-8" lift kit
TOO TALL, I have a 3" lift and it's pushing it.
>33" Super Swampers for the 6" lift, up to 35" for the 8"
33's on a 6" lift would look skip leg day tier.
>Custom Exhaust Header that has 2 outputs, each going to a glass pack hidden inside lake pipes.
for what purpose? You can get an SS header and just run straight if you want to be a faggot, it'll cost you a fraction.
>New axles with locking differentials.
Very specific m8.
>Better aftermarket stereo with good subwoofer
Jeeps aren't about sound.
>Roll Cage
For what purpose?

>not building your cars
>worrying about spending more money on the base car when you're going to replace everything on it

Nice m eme.

You really expect people to spoon feed you what snorkels and roll cages are for?

I put extractors on and changed the single 3 inch exhaust to twin 2.5 inch

For N/A I wouldn't do anything other than tires. Wheels too if the stock ones are too small. Every other ''cheap'' mod is a waste of money and if you want noticeable gains you have to spend a few grand at least.

>gotta rev at the sports cars
I'm sure that's frightening to hear for them.

For my Memebaru I got one of the best EL headers with a tune. Improved daily driving tremendously.

1st gen Impreza GTs go for $3k where I live.

What area? Are they rusted to shit? I've seen a few but with bad rust

>what are the essential mods to make your shitbox completely uncomfortable to drive?

>cold air intake
Stopped reading there. It literally only makes you engine eat more dust.

But the box said ten horsepower

Factory air boxes are already cold air intakes, if anything you should replace the restrictive baffled tubing going from the airbox with smooth tubing with laminar flow

"""""cold""""" air intakes only end up sucking up hot air from your engine bay

Only good post ITT and yet it has no replies

When I buy a car old enough to have no computer the first thing I do is delete the factory wiring harness and wire everything back up neater and more simple. Chasing electrical gremlins in old cars is a nightmare. Next I do fuel lines, vacuum lines, filters, fluids, belts, plugs and plug wires. Never take anyone's word about how a car was maintained.

>chip tuner
>nozzles
>tarbo upgrade
>coilovers
>actually good cold air intake
>some exterior rice
All planned for this tdi.

a couple of simple mods:

- 10 point cage with Parachute

- 3 piece discontinued JoJo frontend

- spec-R full drag suspension

- Fuel cell with -8 lines from tank to motor

- 1 044 bosch pump

- 1200 rc injectors

- golden eagle sleeved block

- cp 10:1 pistons

- Eagle rods

- arp headstuds

- oem h22 headgasket

- Balance shaft delete

- competition clutch twin disc

- Port and polished head

- skunk2 valve springs and retainers

- Str cam gears

- crower stage 1 cams

- aluminium radiator with slim fan

- gsr transmission with itr lsd.

- qsd h2k intake manifold adapter

- k20 rbc manifold

- qsd throttle body spacer

- blox 70mm throttle body

- 4bar omni map sensor

- 6al msd with coil and cap. 3 step launch control

- hks bov

- Garret 102mm turbocharger.

- Custom t4 front facing turbo manifold with 44mm flange

- 44mm tial wastegate

- Custom water to air intercooler set up

- aem eugo wideband w/ gauge

- tuned on chipped p28

- 13 inch volks drag rims

- 2 15 inch volks rear rims

- arp extended wheel studs

- si cluster

- 150 shots of nitrous

How will you get to work then?
Captcha ROAD People

Drive high mileage turbo car. Check engine light always on for emission bullshit. Can confirm that sweating and staring at your gauges is the best way to drive.

Wheels isn't so bad. But tires? Fuckin A.

Obligatory 3k civic

*essential mods to make your car worse

Ftfy

this is the first mod you should do to every car until you can save up and know your car enough for a root blower