QTDDTOT : Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Threads

How come you spell it "liter" instead of "litre?"

Oh, haha, old habits.
English isn't my first language as I'm from Denmark, and there we spell it "liter". Same with "meter" "metre".

Now I'm curious, how come you ask?

One of the funnest parts of the textual internet is noticing how people from different parts of the world use English. So it was just a curiosity that you'd be from a place that ought to use the British spelling and you didn't.

Haha, thats true.
And well spotted too!

>looking to buy a car
>see ad, recently replaced several essential parts after a certain mileage to maintain it
>text him, everything is smooth
>day later says other stuff is falling apart but bought the parts to replace and install them
do i buy it out of pity, or do i buy it out of the fact that hes being honest with me and fixing the problem

Dishonest seller is a big red flag. You don't know how bad it is or if the work has been done right.

Turn 360 degrees and walk away unless you know enough about the vehicle to have a look on your own and knowing what needs to be done or redone.

>Have a Great Day!

Thanks breh you too!

Q: How do I register on speedhunters? There is login form but nowhere to register Im done with writing my email into every comment ffs. SOmeone help a nigga out.

My friend hit my car and left a scratch on it. I just saw there's some car paint scratch remover for sale at Aldi. Does it work? Should I give it a go or just go to a panelbeater?

Any luxury SUVs like the second gen Range Rover (straight lines, clean interior, comfortable, high quality materials), but reliable?

Someone last thread recommended me Goodyear Eagle LS-2 tires as a cheap tire. Why exactly? The Tire Rack reviews are kind of shitty.

They don't seem to have their own account system, you'd have to login with a Facebook, Google or Leddit account, in which case you'd be a fucking shmuck.

How do you select a tree to wrap your car around

I haven't dug around the reviews in a few years (I'm the guy with the Kumho suggestion as a starting point) but the reviews for me thusfar have generally been useful and correct when looking for a different tire within a particular price / application bracket.

You do not select the tree; the tree selects you.

I didn't intend to answer to your post, I thought I was in a completely different thread.

What did he mean by this.

Can anyone tell me what this shit is? My real bumper looks like it has fucking leprosy. I've spent nearly an hour trying to google search these symptons, but i still haven't found out exactly what it is.

It's isolated to my rear bumper, all over that (plastic?) material that's different from the main body paint.

White spots everywhere, with a dull background. Rough feeling. Was this reversed into the fucking sea or some shit?

Car is 3rd hand. Bought a couple of weeks ago from this polish guy. I asked him what it was and he just shrugged. I'm guessing he didn't even attempt to fix it.

Any ideas? Can you link any specific guides that deal with this kind of thing? And also bumper refurbishment in general.

I was planning on going full autism this weekend with cleaning and polishing my car. I've got all i need to make it look showroom tier, products and knowledge from countless hours of youtube tutorials.

But i still have no idea how to fix this shit. And i'm such a fucking mongoloid that i focussed exclusively on learning how to deal with the main body paint. On metal as opposed to the different material the front and rear bumpers are made bumper.
I fucking hope the answer to this shit isn't a full sand abd paint respray job.

Thanks in advance.

just buy a new bumper cover and have it painted goddamn

Jeep I6. Stumble on acceleration when cold. Runs perfect when warm. Releasing and reapplying the gas generally works.
My checklist when I get around to looking for the problem is 02 sensor, exhaust leak, and coolant temp sensor. Anything else I should test?

Hey guys my car has this weird noise (like a mechanical clunk) when I clutch to change from first to second gear (I hear it when I clutch, change and when I depress the clutch).

It doesn't happen with any other gear nor when I downshift to second.

Am I fucked? Does my transmission got fucked?

Isuzu Trooper 2002 3.5V6 4WD, 140k. looking for a friend, yay or nay? This is in the United States, but parts don't seem bad looking on Rock Auto. Reviews seem really good about it.

Only thing that scares me is there was a thin film of oil on top of the battery.

Currently 1800 from the stealership.

old clutch needs replacing. my saturn is doing this but too poor so i just baby it l, i get like 2 cm of play

does it happen when you go from second to first, or is it only when changing up?

I'm poor too, I fear that leaving like that will make it more expensive down the road?

Haven't tried yet, don't usually have to downshift to first, I'll try as soon as possible

yeah you don't really downshift into first when moving so I figured it might be a lockout mechanism.

Just tried it, it only happens when up shifting from 1st to 2nd, it doesn't even make sound when from neutral to second

Well, I took off the air intake tube, and it wasn't too dirty. A little bit of gunked up oil at the throttle body end, and some dirt inside. Cleaned it up real good & wiped all the oil off the inside and outside of the throttle body (it wasn't much, but enough to affect idle RPMs). I might run seafoam spray through the intake later to clear out any remaining crap in the idle air hole thing.

Anyway, checked the dipstick, and saw oil ways actually HIGH, which would explain the oil inside the air intake tube. Emptied a little under a quart of oil from the pan. Reconnected the air intake tube, and now the Jeep's running back to normal. Unfortunately, "normal" features a loud lifter tick, but that'll have to wait until I'm moved out of this apartment back into a house with a garage & driveway.

One other question: It looks like PO removed one of the air intake hoses and blocked off the hole from the airbox. Pic related is what it normally looks like, but he removed it and sealed it off with a screwed-on piece of aluminum. Should I re-open that intake and/or replace the airbox with one that has that upward facing intake?

How do i make my grand caravan sound like a truck? Its got a v6 but it sounds like a washing machine

Looks like the paint didn't bond properly to the bumper.
Probably a shit patch job from either a minor fender bender (small spot) or a major overhaul (whole bumper does this)
If the title was clean and nothing in the carfax he had some chop shop fix it up and not report the work.

I got a TPMS light last night (coincidentally after doing a FWD burnout in a big rain puddle for shits and giggles), and was worried I got a flat tire. I checked my tire pressures this morning and got about 24 +/- 2 psi for each corner, which rules out a flat. But my car door says to fill to 37 psi, and I've only had these wheels and tires for about 6 months. Did 12 psi leak out of my tires over the last half year, or is it more likely that my shop put the wrong pressures in initially? Steering feels dead now that I've set them to 35 psi.

46-48 Chevrolet Stylemaster, right?

I'm confused. What does a crate engine mean exactly? IS it an engine sold separately?

head down to jiffy lube and ask for the v8 oil

What's a good entry level luxury car?

Acceleration in park and drive leads to excess vibration and some roaring as RPMs raise. Automatic transmission hangs for 2-3 seconds at 15mph no matter RPMS then moves forward. I can feel the vibration in my ass, assuming driveshaft , any advice , driving me insane.

Used - Lexus

New - Acura

It's an engine that literally comes in a crate.

If none of that works, check the air sensor and look for a vacuum leak.

Often, it will be running open-loop until it comes up to temperature using special timing/fueling map designed for cold. When running open-loop, the O2 sensor is not used to rock back and forth over a stochiometric A/F ratio to keep the cat doing its job. This makes it reasonable to guess that the ECU is getting a bad reading from the air sensor and is operating in the wrong part of the cold fuel map.

Possibly throttle sensor is reading wrong, as an alternative thing to check.

By air you mean the mass airflow, right?

Ah, sounds like a good resolution.

As or the air box, I assume upward bit is some kind of secondary route for sucking air if it runs with that blocked off. I don't know enough about that engine to speculate why they put it there, but probably if it runs OK the way it is then it's not terribly important.

I don't know if that tube might provide resonance at some RPM range that affects the torque curve, or help avoid detonation where there is otherwise a VE peak, or tunes out some noise at the expense of torque at a particular RPM, or even just prevents hydrolock if you're driving through deep water.

how would I go about turning an S13 into a cheap rally car?

12psi out of one tire could easily happen in a year due to a poor seal. But if all four were equally underpressure then more likely they weren't set up to pressure initially.

It's certainly possible that they all deflated equally, but that wouldn't be my first guess.

The bit on the door presumes stock tires. If you have different tires then a slightly different pressure might feel better. My choice of tire liked running about +5psi more than the door spec for a good combination of suppleness and feel. As long as it wears evenly then your choice of pressure is reasonable. If the middle wears first then it's too high; if the edges wear first then it's too low.

I don't know whether you have a MAF or a MAP (or the odd engine that has both), but the answer is yes.

Go to a muffler shop and ask for a custom cat-back with magnaflows or whatever. I recommend keeping a resonator in there so it sounds less like groaning ass.

Depends on what you order, you can get a fully dressed engine or just a longblock without intake manifold, headers or accessories.

Two spark plugs per cylinder or did I eat retard pills for breakfast?

Thanks for informative post

Hemi engines do this, old flatheads do this, a number of bike engines, 4 bangers, diesels, and especially aircraft engines, too.
I'm not too sure which engine that is but my bet would be that's a Ford diesel with twin magneto plugs.

youtube.com/watch?v=ai6Xo0uYcWw
This is the video you're looking for if you want your v6 sounding gud.

What is a reasonable price range for a good outdoor car cover with UV protection, waterproof, and dustproof in USD? There are some that cost 20-50 dollars with good reviews and others that cost ~150 dollars that also look good. I don't want to get ripped off.

I want your guys honest opinion.
Yellow LED or White LED fog lights?

Yellow. Fog lights should always be a different color.

Mine are lime green (not sure if stock...)

Overheated my mr2 couple months back, thought I turned the car off soon enough to keep it from doing any damage but I think I was wrong. Ever since then the coolant pressure relief cap has been spewing out coolant. Not a lot of coolant, just like a fine mist that gets everywhere.

Is it a warped head Veeky Forums? Please say it aint so. I checked the overflow line for blockage and it seemed like there was some, so I cleared it out but haven't ran the car since then because I'm scared that wont fix it.

Doesn't sound good. Does your oil still look good and not like it's turning into coffee or chocolate milk? Do you smell the sweet smell of coolant burning ever? If you take off the radiator cap and turn on the engine (and try revving it as well) do bubbles come up out of the radiator?

Why did it overheat in the first place?

Did I run my car hitting the fuel cut at redline for a couple seconds like a fucking dumbass.

I know if i bought this i`d drown in repairs but its a V12 for less than 1k.
thoughts?

cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/d/1991-bmw-750il/6320353514.html

No. It's not particularly good to do because it could possibly wind up running lean enough to ping if you keep banging against the limiter, but even that's not the end of the world. The rev limiter is designed to be the safer option vs. over-revving it.

>couple of seconds
no. its fine. they're designed with people accidentally doing that in mind.

Oil looked ok last time I checked it (around the same time I unclogged the overflow hose), however I only checked through the dipstick and didnt drain any out. It smells like burning coolant a lot because it's constantly wicking coolant out of the pressure relief cap. Your third question doesn't really apply because the filler neck and cap are in the back of the car (above the engine) while the radiator is in the front of the car.

To better explain what it's doing, imagine it like this: The coolant is doing its thing being pumped through the lines, correct? So now (through a potentially warped head) exhaust gases are being pumped into the coolant lines, both increasing the temperature of the lines while also increasing pressure. This increase of pressure causes the cap to partially open. As all the gases build up at the highest point of the system (where the filler neck and cap is), the coolant is doing its own thing and passing through this area. Now, since the cap is partially open, the gases escape but also take some coolant with it. Thus a fine mist/spray is being shot into the engine bay. So you do get a smell of burning coolant as it leaks onto the engine and the headers.

It overheated because the dipshit who did my swap used a 16v alternator bracket and not a 20v bracket. Which means the alternator pulley was mis-aligned, causing the drive belt to wear excessively to the point it slipped and stopped driving the water pump. No water pump meant no flow meant overheating.

if you've got the money, fucking go for it.

Note that I tracked the car with this warped head a month after I overheated it. So if I managed to go 7 hours of near redline madness and it's still kicking even now, it can't possibly be that bad, can it?

>To better explain what it's doing, imagine it like this
Yep, that's exactly what I was imagining. Hence my third suggestion to open up the coolant system wherever you might be able to see the exhaust bubble out with the engine running/revving.

At this point I guess you could try putting on a new pressure relief cap just in case the old one is too old and won't hold pressure right. But otherwise that really sounds like you're in for a head gasket swap and hoping it's not warped and you can just refinish the deck and the head.

Thank you it has been aggravating me all day.

Replacing the cap is one of the first things I did actually. Made no difference. Could I do a compression test maybe, or a leak down test first to make absolutely sure it is the head?

I ask this because I have this feeling that when I first got the got, the relief cap for it was locked all the way (aka couldn't relieve itself under pressure) maybe because the p/o was experiencing this issue, and maybe it started doing this because I put the cap on the right way (only 1 click so it can still actuate). Because if it was fully locked then all that extra pressure would go through the overflow hose into the tank, would it not?

Honestly I don't know why I'm asking stupid questions when I could literally just go put some coolant in the car, drive it for a bit with the cap unlocked and locked and find out for myself lol. I just want to turn it on as few times as possible to find out whats wrong

Yeah, compression / leak down would be a sensible next step before having to get more expensive.

To be honest as long as the oil doesn't get milky, it doesn't overheat, and you don't run it out of coolant, you can keep driving it as-is without too much worry until you decide that it really is fucked and needs rehabilitation.

The only reason I want to fix it really is because the car wont stop pissing coolant all over the engine bay. I mean I'm confident the engine (for the time being) is otherwise a-ok since I was able to race it with literally no ill-effects (the entire time it was wicking coolant out but the temperature needle/sensor (which I know work properly) never fluctuated while racing, it stayed nice and cool. I was also thinking of use it as an excuse to top some top end work, like new cams and shit. I think what I might do is lock the cap, top off coolant and see what happens.

If you're going to keep and race the car rather than shitbox it in to the ground, then you might as well use it as an excuse for top end work if it's not going to break the bank. No sense racing in a car that's starting to give out unless you just figure on racing it until it gives out and calling it a day.

Toyota Land Cruiser or Lexus GX.

Did the shop mount the tires? Could've just put enough in to mount the tires and then forgot to air them up the rest of the way.

Not exactly sure what you're saying but if you're revving it in park and it's vibrating then it's not the driveshaft it's a motor or trans mount. If it's vibrating bad at low speed it's more likely a really bad U-Joint rather than the driveshaft itself unless you've jumped it recently or drove onto a boulder.

I went to the scarp yard today and got a set of two decent winter tires and it was cheaper to buy them with the steel wheels then get them reinstalled on my other set. My question is, does it matter if the offset is different from my other set? Theres about a half inch difference, it pokes out a little from the well, I was thinking as long as they are both in the back it shouldn't matter, they're both in the correct orientation.

Well I was also going to race it until it dies then swap a wankel in it. Because a rotary mr2 is definitely worth the headache

You're my kind of guy. I think the coolant mist might be a sign.

FWD car? Probably alright to have the rear track a little off. It's not like you're looking for perfect geometry handling in the winter.

Yeah FWD.

Orange peel from a poorly executed paintjob

Probably the only thing you'd want to watch out for is if they wind up rubbing the fenders when the suspension is compressed. So what I would do is put them on and go for a high speed drive over bumps and curves and see if they make any strange rubbing noises.

It's not going to shred the tire if they do rub once in a blue moon, but if they do it regularly then that's not so good.

Why are you not using something like a Neon or some other good FWD platform? Or even a Subaru?

how low can you go? no cords visible yet..

because it was free

>BF Goodrich T/A Traction
>Rubbing the fender
What nigger shit is this?

Please tell me that's from excessive toe-in and not because somebody slammed a truck with those wheels and tires on it.

found it parked on the side of the road, still see it being driven around

yeah, not the fender, looks like he tried to tow something from his steering linkage.

ha ha oh wow

how is the 06/07 CTS-V? Apparently the later first gens don't rip their rear ends off and have a juicy LS2/Tremec combo. 4door GTO? Kind of ugly, but whatever.

They only cost 16k for a decent mileage example.

Only thing I can tell you is if you live in the rust belt, make sure to check for rust underneath, the side panels can be deceiving. Those years tend to rot out something fierce for some reason.

I'm moving to a place with really bad traffic. I'm considering buying a Chevy Volt and getting a carpool lane sticker for it. I was able to test drive one briefly (the fucking dealer only let me for like 5 minutes). Do any anons have any experiences to share regarding them? Mostly worried that due to the battery it won't last me very long.

Is $150 too much for a car cover?

As an adult and somebody who doesn't care to cover his car, I'd say that's a little on the expensive side for a trinket, but if it's going to do its job well then it's really nothing in the grand scheme of things.

why aren't backup cameras and navigation standard in pickup trucks without having to buy a higher trim package?

you could go to a kia/hyundai dealership and find that just about every shitbox on the lot has these features, what gives?

You do know it has a gas generator, right? My uncle has own one for a few years, he seems to like it.

Because most people who need a pickup know how to drive and park already.

Could be an engine Mount. Put the car in gear (no e brake and car off!) And then watch the engine while rocking the car back and forth. If you rock it hard enough you should see the engine rocking quite a bit and you'll most likely hear the clunk.