QTDDTOT: Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Threads

Old thread
My question: do I need to replace my brakes/rotors? Foot has to go pretty far down on the pedal and there's terrible vibrations stopping from 30+ mph.

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The vibrations say probably rotors. Some people will turn them, but chances are they're already too thin, and turning just removes metal that makes it more likely they'll warp again. Should take the vibration out, but the pedal travel could be a seized caliper. Like your left rotor is warped because it has to do all the work, because your right caliper is seized up and not clamping anymore..

Yes, they're so cheap (usually) that there's not a point in turning them. Might as well just get new ones for a couple bucks more when you get pads. Don't forget to bleed the brakes when you change them.
If one was working harder than the other it would pull to that side too.

Cool, thats what I thought. Might as well just order a new set of pads/rotors considering its only $70 shipped for some decent ones
Yeah I made sure it doesn't pull when braking. Why would I need to bleed the brakes if I'm not disconnecting the hoses?

Brake fluid is hydroscopic, it sucks in moisture and air over time. Bleeding it gets rid of fluid with water in it and removes air from the system, giving you a tighter pedal feel and raises your fluid's boiling point. Your fluid should be clearish-gold, if it's brown or black you should flush all of it out, so bleed it and top off the master cylinder until the fluid comes out new, not just when the bubbles stop. It's good for 3-5 years so if you don't know the last time it was done, it's probably about time.

>Why would I need to bleed the brakes if I'm not disconnecting the hoses?

If the fluid is clean then it should be OK. If it's dark I would flush with new stuff. The old stuff absorbs water and lowers the fluid boiling point and can cause spongy pedal when hot.

^No need to bleed if you just do pads and rotors, however it's generally good maintenance practice to flush your brake fluid every couple of years so some will recommend doing it concurrently. If you do have a seized up caliper and you choose to replace you will absolutely need to bleed at least that one new caliper

Ok thanks for explaining. I already considered getting them bled but the fluid is still pretty light and the brakes don't get any better with pumping so that should be fine.

(OP)
If you run your finger past the edge of the rotor and feel a sharp lip, that means your rotor is worn down and needs replacing.

My question is, are selective yellow headlights legal in the US? Texas in particular.

I don't think so, not for your headlights. They're ok in your fogs though.

I have 08 mazdaspeed 3 that's been making a sort of little rattle noise on the left side of the engine( looking at it from the front) near the belt. Anyone have any ideas or had this happen before.

How do you make your vacuum brake booster work if you have ITBs?

I assume you would just tap it off one of the cylinders from behind the throttle plate. It's not like the engine is going at 60RPM and there might be a dangerous delay waiting for that particular cylinder to hit an intake stroke to build the vacuum back up.

loose heat shield

drill and tap the manifold for vacuum lines

there is no manifold

yes there is.. what do you think itbs bolt to... not directly to the head.

tapping off of one cylinder out of eight would mean that the brake booster would build vacuum eight times slower. this doesn't seem like a good solution

>what do you think itbs bolt to
the head

Best way to clean the interior of me car?

have you tried cleaning it?

The word manifold encapsulates the notion of one thing that feeds many things. The word individual encapsulates the notion of one thing feeding one thing.

I don't really know how many intake strokes it takes to build vacuum, but the booster is usually designed to hold enough vacuum for hitting the brakes a few times without the engine running at all, so I assume it's pretty rare that you'd be enough of a brake spaz to run it out before the engine could rebuild the vacuum. Key word: assume.

I meant like what is best for the interior. Will this shit work?

I just go at my interior with a rag soaked in windex. Wipes are not great because you'll end up having like 50 used ones on your car's floor when you're done

You kids are fucking morons lmao. Obviously you've never been near an ITB setup if you think there isn't a manifold.

throttle bodies do not bolt directly to the head there is a manifold. whether its multiple throttle bodies or one throttle body makes no difference.

so once again.. tap the manifold for vacuum lines.. like everyone else who needs vacuum from itbs.

Bucket and rag bros of the world UNITE

House, car, whatever, unless it's just a job for like one paper towel or whatever, it's bucket and rag time. I once watched some poor woman try to clean a horrible bathroom with wipes. Hours of elbow grease and a garbage bag full of used wipes. I wanted to tell her to stop and that I'd come up and get the bathroom sorted in the span of about 15 minutes when I got done with the kitchen, but she wanted to feel useful.

Where do you guys buy your parts from?

...

How often do you guys change out your rags?

I'll do anything with one rag as long as I keep the rag clean

t. kid that doesnt own itbs and has never seen an itb set up in person

look at this picture. notice something? oh yeah a fucking manifold with individual runners.

honestly dont know why i come to this idiot board

I change rags when the water gets too dirty for my liking. I bought like a 50-pack of those white terrycloth shop rags. I use them for everything, including drying the dishes, and tossing a wet one on something I'm going to torch to keep the section not being torched cool. I currently hae a few folded up under my speakers to reduce the acoustic coupling to my desk.

And they're cheap so if I have to do something that destroys one of them then no big deal. Otherwise, into laundry they go and then back into service.

there is no manifold in that picture lmao

dude.. idk. you're literally stupid.
the thing that bolts to the head is a single piece of cast aluminum with individual runners. it's a manifold.

the throttle bodies are the above it bolted to it individually.

pls l2 car u teenage retard and stop fantasizing about the itbs you'll never have if you dont even know how to tap for vacuum lines.

...

wait, are you thinking of a plenum??? a plenum isnt a manifold.

point to the manifold
you wont because there isnt one

>i was only pretending to be retarded xD epic troll
feel sorry for u

...

did u think throttle bodies were shaped like intake ports lmao

bad news kid that isnt a manifold

what is it?

A bunch of runners that have been attached to each other. There's no one-to-many, ergo no many-fold, no manifold.

autism speaks

k let me know when you actually have any experience in the car world. keep dreaming about your itbs you'll never have lol.

>being correct is autism
stay mad

I'm not saying you can't go around calling it a manifold for lack of a better term, but technically it is not a manifold.

That's like asking me if a bunch of exhaust runners that are meant to bolt on to a collector comprise a manifold. I'm going to know what you mean if you refer to all or part of that assembly as a manifold, but the individual pipes that bolt to the head, whether they share a common mounting plate or not, are technically not a manifold.

>keep dreaming about your itbs you'll never have lol.
they're like a grand lmfao

Is it worth trading in a car to get an older car?

Current car is a 2007 Civic, but I'm thinking of trading it in for a 1998 Civic so I can have a car with manual transmission

The Carfax report on the 1998 Civic looks good, although it is old and does have 205,000 miles on it

using a literary definition which has no relevance to the topic is absolutely autism. it's a manifold - that's what everyone calls it, that's what you will call it when ordering it if you ever save enough of your allowance to buy one. pretty much case closed autism boy.

then why dont you have any?

>Say something stupid
>When people point out your wrong double down
>Just keep doubling down

This must be the newest evolution of "i was only pretending"

And when you ask me for my PIN number when I'm ordering one from you I'll know exactly what you mean even though it's not really a personal identification number number.

because I didn't buy them yet because I had questions about them which is why i'm here

thats literally what youre doing.

>uh yes hello jenvey.. i need um.. well i need a cast piece that bolts to the head but it has individual runners for the throttle bodies because throttle bodies arent shaped like intake ports u know
>you mean a manifold?
>ashckkuilly its not a manifold you see manifold means many folds, i took a topology course once *tips fedora*
>uh ok, do you want the manifold or not?

lol @ your life

Anyone have some quality looking fender flares? I'm looking to cut my fucked up panels and just flare them out.

>arrive in a town where everyone calls trees donuts
>try to explain they're called trees
>we know they're called trees but everyone here says donuts so they're called donuts
>everyone starts dancing around calling you an autist
this is you

I was doing some more looking around and it seems that the gen 3 I have is notorious for having problems with the vvt. RIP

Just spray fix-a-flat into the valve cover vent.

>don't know how to swap transmissions
>am not an idiot
>buy project car with automatic
>swap automatic for manual
Could it be done over the weekend?

yes but not on the first time.

About car batteries:

Is there any real difference between the batteries apart from what terminal is on what corner?
If I can fit a battery that is bigger than the original one on my shitbox would this bigger battery be more reliable in long run?

No. Size is irrelevant. It is all about cold cranking amps, unless you are running tons of accessories. The biggest factor in how long the battery lasts is quality of materials. If you really want a great battery you have to do your research. I personally think odessy is the best. But no matter what battery you use you just have to make sure it is maintained either by a battery maintainer or driving for at least 25 mins at least once a week.

Apparently there are batteries that can't start in the cold. I didn't know they sell them down South where it basically doesn't ever snow.

So keep that in mind and for the rest it doesn't really matter for average use. Lead-Acid batteries don't like to be run down. So if you don't abuse it then it should be good to you.

Depends on the person, if you're talking about you then no.

-Not an idiot
-Posting on Veeky Forums

Pick one.

1. Ah (Amp Hours) this is basically the capacity of the battery aka how long it lasts.
2. CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) this is how many cranking power the battery can output when cold aka how fast it cranks when cold.
3. Dimensions + Terminal orientation/type, this one is obvious I think.


1. There is a relation between alternator output and battery capacity (Ah), because if you fit a high capacity battery on weak alternator the battery will always be undercharged and will be ruined, because car batteries like to stay charged.

2. Again here you want to stay in the range the manufacturer suggests because too high or too low CCA will ruin your starter motor in the long run.


Since cars are engineered for years before they are put into mass production I would stay with something very close to what the manufacturer put there in the first place.

Now if you put the right battery and want it to last longer:

-Avoid using anything that draws power with the engine off.
-Keep the battery charged either by taking a long drive once a week or using a trickle charger.
-Check for parasitic draw when your engine is off.
-Keep your battery clean as the dirt can be conductive.

CA is cranking amps measured at 32 degrees F.

CCA is a measurement of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0 ° F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2 volts. So a high CCA battery rating is good especially in cold weather.

I want to change my own fluids but I also want to keep the service history updated. Should I just keep all the receipts? How do you feel when you buy a car off someone who says they do their own fluids?

Dumb question.

If I want to powerslide around a corner by ripping the handbrake do I need to clutch in if it's fwd? I'm pretending to be a rally driver on the gravel roads near my house

I personally use a spreadsheet and would likely email or print it off if I was selling my car

Why is the Lan Evo better than Subaru's meme car?

because MISHFIRINGU SHYSHTEMUUU

I want to go to the local track every single day, but I can't afford it. What do I do?
Pic not related.

Question:

My 3k civic makes a left-side knocking noise going over certain bumps/potholes, and when the car is shifting weight (from acceleration to braking and vice versa). Seems to only happen after a few minutes of driving/when its warmed up. Tie rods? Tables?

Is it seriously over $100 for a fucking multi-functon switch with wipers and cruise?

>what is a junkyard?
also could be ball joints or control arm bushings
get hektik

If a car was on a lift and someone gave it gas would I be able to just hold one wheel still while all the power went to the other wheel? Pls educate me on all things differential

how well do license plate reflector covers work?

Are G6 GTPs fun to drive? Reliable?

if I get a lightened flywheel for my FC rx7, will it still be DD'able?

I apparently have an oil leak directly above my exhaust manifold. It leaks into a heat shield but still smokes.
On a scale of damp rag to California forest, how much of a fire hazard is this?

What's this guy doing with his throttle modulation? Is he coordinating it with his steering input to prevent understeer?

youtu.be/rnktwJ71LBA?t=8m45s

Pretty low, engine oil has a really high ignition temp. It's more or less just embarrassing to drive around with a car with smoke coming out from under the hood. You probably just need a new valve cover gasket. ezfix

Yeah, the engine will rev faster, but you'll have less rotational inertia, keep the revs up and you'll be fine. I do know of some cars (usually WRX's) throw a CEL if you go too light, but i'm talking about going from a 25lb flywheel to a

I keep all my receipts in a manila folder. I don't keep my oil change stuff because that would be a large group of receipts that don't actually prove that the work was ever done. You can see all the new oem hoses and bits that I've put on though, so I keep those receipts.

I have wagner night defense bulbs (pic related) in my truck and have never got stopped, plus the packaging says DOT approved
Not quite as yellow as your pic, but they're still noticeably yellow

How do you maintain a car well enough so that you can keep it until you die?

Some fag in a civic si with chrome rims has yellow headlights where i live (eastern usa).

How do i not end up like mustangs leaving a car meet?

Somtimes when i want to burnout from a stop going into a turn my back end will kick out and then when trying to stay the course it will start to kick the other way. How do i burnout from a stop into a turn and maintain control without having to stop the car in fear of crashing...? Rwd..

replace stuff that breaks with no regard to cost

How the hell do you get this damn ac compressor off? The bolts don't slide out all the way.

94 k1500. TBI 350. Since the AC evidently still works I'd like to keep it pressurized if possible.

Looks like the pulley is stopping them, you'd need to remove the pulley.

Rain Tires vs All Season Tires

Depends on what car you have.

My BMW's I usually buy parts from ECS or Bavauto, My Truck I usually source from Summit, or the local advance, and My bikes its whomever has the cheapest price and shipping.

hi, im new to car but i like fixing this thing
2001 chevy s10 new england rustbeast
i need to replace this T bracket thing (and probably the tubes as well) that can withstand air that's 500 degrees or whatever.
what is it called? where would I be able to buy one without having to purchase an entire secondary air pump?
pic related - that's the old one. whoever owned this before just threw on some plastic bullshit.

If you've not done one before itll take more time than that.

If your experienced and know what all needs to come off and what order it needs to come off then it can be done in a weekend.

Depending on the state, that maybe the reason you were given a ticket in the first place.

Not an expert either, but I'd be worried about the ECU freaking the fuck out if you swapped automatic for manual, if your project car is new enough to have one.

Also keep in mind that in addition to putting the new transmission in you'll also need to fit the clutch, clutch master cylinder, shifter, etc. into a car that wasn't built with them.

Looks like he's rev matching or trying to keep the revs up to keep from hydroplaning.

If he was completely off the throttle in low gear the car would essentially brake hard and could lose traction in the wet.

Most ECUs only need very little information from the TCU to operate, and most ecu's from the early 90's and before give no fucks whether its mated to a manual or auto.

They make pulley's that will bypass the air pump, that would be your best option.

Aside from that, you'll need to find the part number off the blow up, you seem to have superimposed over your picture, and call a dealership.

>Most ECUs only need very little information from the TCU to operate, and most ecu's from the early 90's and before give no fucks whether its mated to a manual or auto
I'm thinking of newer cars I've driven that can (and have on me) put the car into limp mode for minor shit, let alone putting a different trans in.