QTDDTOT : Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Threads

thanks for the help fellas hope I make it home

reposting the following:

is $2.2k too much to pay for a car like this?
>washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/d/1992-honda-civic-vx-hatch-5/6333401433.html
It looks like it's been well maintained, but it's still a 25 year old civic with over 200k miles. How should I take this guy's mods into valuation? I know car basics but I don't know much about the shit he's done to it.

While, my first car was a 1998 Volvo I paid $1200 for back in 2009. Had new tires and a few other work done on it. I think the reason why he sold it to me for that cheap was because it was manual trans.

Now a Honda would go for more than a Volvo would because of it's rep for being well made and easy to fix.

I would ask for a carfax report before buying and you should haggle as much as possible.

What happens when an engine seizes or locks up? Is there any hope for it at all?

Trying to find info on bodykits, having trouble finding answer to this question.
If I acquire Corolla S body sides and bum/rear lips will they go smoothly on my Corolla Ce of the same generation/year??
Looking to do the installation myself.

Suggest a good k series engine? Preferably an i vtec one
Going for an all engine build, that i might eventually track for fun. Going to start out stock for a while and work my way up, ideally ill buy the car, take the valve cover off and clean the shit out of everything, and be done for now.
Havent started looking nearby yet, but im considering a type r or a k20z1 so far

>mods
Only mods are the alarm, head unit, and speakers. The rest is just replacing old broke shit, mostly suspension. Alarm, speakers, and HU are easy to do, so not too much added value there. Like other user said tho, cheap and easy to fix. No idea if they actually get that advertised mpg, but even 30+ is pretty good. You could try for 2k, but imo thats a decent price if you just need it to get around.

The coolant under my filler cap won't go down at all. I left it overnight, for 15+ hours, stone cold. Why won't it go down? What the fuck.

left my 05 civic's key outside for 2 weeks during which it often rained heavily.

now it won't start the car. wat do?

put it in a bag of rice

get a new key

This isn't strictly automotive but can anyone recommend some gloves? I took my mechanix gloves to my job (distribution center) after tearing through a neoprene pair. The mechanix lasted 2, 12 hour days before wearing through on the palms and breaking 3 finger tips... So, I brought a leather pair of shooter's gloves and they went on for 5 days before getting a busted finger.

I'm gonna replace or repair the shooter's gloves because they were great for light work and shooting, but anyone know of a pair that I might be able to squeeze a month out of?

What does Veeky Forums think of the recent Golf R?
I'm a JDM weeb so I'm completely clueless about yuroboxes.

Hey, it's me again.
The guy that likes to dump engine oil on other people's lawns, their street drains, and find open house events to sneak into and dump into the sink.

Question is I've been caught but sped off. Unsure if they caught my license plate.
What's the worst that could happen to me?
I mean, it's no big deal right? I dump it in undesirable people neighborhoods.
They don't care about property value or mowing their lawns.

why though

1. Why the fuck would you dump oil into other people's lawns when you can dispose of it at any auto shop for free?
2. I'm pretty sure improper disposal of oil is a federal offense. Enjoy jail buddy

Because those illegals at vatozones want to steal my containers. And sell me their cheap garbage. No thanks, forget all that noise.
Hmmm, I'm sure nothing will come from this. I'm a good person.

What would cause low fuel pressure?
Can I just blow out fuel lines with compressed air?

I hope u are bait/get caught

What about going elsewhere instead of acting like a fucking retard

hey Veeky Forums. should I get these wheels for my aw11?
losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/wto/d/1988-mr2-supercharged/6339849221.html
the ones on it now are some off brand chinese shit from the previous owner and the price for these seems right to me. i don't know anything about wheels or tires so i'd appreciate some input. thanks.

Flush it down the drain you retard

Look for a pump pressure kit. It's a lid that bolts to the top of the master cylinder with a hand pump tank to pressurize the lines
Cold air intake has a direct feed from high pressure cool air coming from the front of the vehicle (warm air??) I guess is just a box on top of the engine. Ram air is essentially the same thing as a cold air intake but it is more free flowing and designed to not lose any of the wind speed velocity created by the forward momentum of the vehicle. Most new vehicle boxes are set up to be cold air intakes, they just have a small surface area restrictive cheap filter
If it's seized it can't moved. Something could be inbetween the bearings, a valve could have dropped and got wedged, a connecting rod could be bent or broken, or it could even be as simple as rust around the rings. Most common is just a engine that sat too long; pour tiny bit of oil in spark plug holes let it sit and crank it out without the plugs. 9 out of 10 of the causes will need the engine to be torn down
Crank the engine over with the cap off the cycle the air pockets in the water jackets of the block
Bad pump/clogged filter/hole in line. Depends on where in the line your sensor is reading from

don't be reckless, just be convenient.

you're literally going out of your way to do that, why not just take it to the store at that point.

Either get rid of it easy and illegally, or just fucking dump it at the tank

>be me
>have na z31 in great mechanical shape but horrible cosmetic shape
>see this cheap autotragic turbo z31 in great cosmetic shape with mechanical problem
>says it started smoking due to valve guide seals
>want to buy it and swap in my manual then part out the old car

would valve seals cause exhaust smoking? im an experienced amateur mechanic so i can do valve seals or headgasket or whatever is needed, but i just want to know what i might be getting myself into.

How much should I ask under MSRP for a car from a dealer?

Do you think this is a good deal? I need a reliable commuter car that I'll be able to sell after 4 years.
carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/26867270

then dump it in their parking lot or bathroom or some shit, why fuck with other people
>responding to bat

getting a head reconditioned is 250$ in machine work and they will press in the guides for you. new valves are like 9$ a piece. a whole head rebuild will set you back 500$ in gaskets, machine work, and all the shit you should do "just because you have it apart". at that point you should spend the extra 700$ to rebuild the whole fucking thing.

Hey auto i need your help.
98 ford exploder xlt
What is this?
Front Passenger side is sagging and it sounds like a grinding noice coming from in there.

Thanks for any help

assuming its not a warped head, if i were to do it i would remove the heads and upgrade the valves springs and keepers for higher boost and rpm, valve seals, head gaskets and studs because it would be needed of course. again, assuming the head isnt warped, why would i spend 250 bucks for "reconditioning" when its not needed?

I just need to ask a dumb question.

I have a CB7 (93' Accord Sedan), and I was thinking about engine swapping it with an H22 from a Prelude.

My thought when it came to sourcing an okay engine with low miles was the price. From what I see, all the H22's in good condition with low miles are all like 3-4k. But then I figured, if I have 3-4k to buy an engine, why not just buy a Prelude and have it instead of the accord?

Like, I understand the point of putting say... An LS into an RX-7 or a 2JZ into a non-Supra car, because the price versus the price of the car is significantly different. Easier to get an LS than it is a Corvette, and easier to get a 2JZ than a Supra, etc.

But why shouldn't I just buy the Prelude and have a better car/engine to build on?

Ok this has been the only reasonable answer. I'll do this.

My Toyota gives a puff if blue smoke on a cold start, am I in for a bad time?

>can do valve seals
>doesn't know whether or not they would cause smoke
Are you sure? Btw yes they can cause blue smoke

can anyone tell me what the name of the part is that looks to be leaking grease, please?

when i use little force to push down the backside of my car it creates a pretty loud metallic sound

Not a dumb question at all.
You are right on the money.
It is usually always easier and cheaper to upgrade cars then do a full on engine swap. Most people do an engine swap because they either want a specific car with more power/dependability then was capable with their stock engine options or want to build something ridiculous like a sleeper or just to do it.
The only other reason is for example an LS swap. Parts and cheap and plentiful for them. As for the RX7 LS swap it significantly easier and cheaper to source parts for a LS then a B13 and are arguably more durable. A street-able 600 hp LS is not uncommon where as I have probably encountered a handful of 600+ rotaries personally.

>98 ford exploder xlt
looks like your upper control arm
and your ball joint is probably bad
boot is definitely broken and leaked grease and stuff everywhere

that big bastard it's attached to is your knuckle

fastoemparts.com/parts/1998/FORD/Explorer/XLT?siteid=214455&vehicleid=49456&diagram=MF95190

if it sounds like a metallic squeaking its probably your shocks.
take it to a mechanic to have it diagnosed.
once it is diagnosed, if it's something you are comfy with doing yourself, then just replace it yourself

could also be rear control arms/bushings.
i dont even know what vehicle you have / are talking about.

When changing transmission fluid, you drain and then refill? What tools are needed for this? What kind of fluid is the best? Is flushing coolant necessary, or can I just put more in?

Engine swap for the 7th gen celica, what's the most cost effective upgrade?

Thoughts on the W220? Yay or nay in this day and age?

When changing my diff oil does my car need to be flat on 4 stands or will it be alright with just the rear jacked up? If anything it'll take slightly more oil on an angle.

Does horsepower =/= fuel consumption/mpg? Would there be any discernible difference in mpg/performance between two identical engines but one is tuned for 450 hp and the other for 475?

All depends on the tune and how many cylinders you have, but yes, more combustion warrants more fuel.

What is a good city car one can buy in the United States?

Not unless this is new behavior. Keep an eye on the dipstick to get a sense for how fast it's burning oil. But you probably just have old seals that are starting to leak slightly and that's just a bit of oil burning off that seeps into the cylinders when you let it sit there for long enough.

Yeah the fill hole is meant so that you have the right amount of oil in it when the car is level. Close enough is usually close enough unless you're worried about racing or towing or have a fancy diff of some sort, though, so it's reasonable to guestimate if you're not a mechanical idiot.

there are cases when less hp will use more fuel
such as engines that are overloaded will have to operate above optimum rpm more often

thermal efficiency is a big factor too
there is a side of engine tuning called thermal dynamics
its too complex for me to grasp

>more combustion warrants more fuel
high end engines don't use much fuel for the power they produce
its the tasks they perform are far above what most people are willing to pay for overall

What if we narrow it down to a V8, eight barrel 428 police interceptor engine?

Engine rebuild necessary for 8-10 psi boost on a V6 2014 mustang ?

will the people at vato zone laugh at me if I order carbon fiber brake pads for my daily?

1. don't give such a shit about what other people think

2. it's perfectly reasonable if you're talking about the front brakes, since 90% of the car's braking occurs in the front wheel, which is why the rear brakes are drum brakes. There isn't or should not be any stigma against wanting quality front brake pads.

While I agree that giving a fuck what others think is often detrimental for your mental health

I think carbon fiber is a bit overkill for a daily.

This isn't a drag car (so the very minor weight savings is negligible)

Unless you manage to hit brake fade while dailying, in which case you are a hoonstar, I'd argue it's a bit of a waste of money.

Unless you want it to look cool. I can't take that one away from you. The rice that's best is the rice you like the most.

I just started driving Manual about a week ago , I'm getting the hang of it slowly. I live in Southern California usually get stuck in traffic for about 1 1/2 hours , what is the best way to drive to save my clutch from wearing out in traffic ?

>eight barrel 428
wew
I doubt the extra 25 hp is going to make a big difference
cvt driven centrifugal supercharger like the pro charger i-1 can give you fine grain control over boost
and per gear boost and rpm might pay a role too

what body are you going to use ?
I read a big ass article about the economics of improving fuel economy
.ie how much improvement can be made vs how much the improvements cost

from lowest cost to highest effectiveness
turbo charging -cheep
improved drive train - less lossy power transmission
better aerodynamics - costly to do right
weight loss - the most expensive method by far

for aero work there is ford probe iv concept car
it has documentation of how effective each aerodynamic modification is
a little hard to find a copy of but its out there

and also the crazy world of hypermiling
where people might heat the intake up to 400 F to better homogenise the fuel charge
or block off the radiator at high speed to reduce drag
and my all time favourite method one wheel drive for a few second then coast for as long as possible

Jeeze that does sound like it can get crazy.

For body we're talking a '67 Shelby GT500. In the future I want to have a reproduction built for me as a pro-touring car so I can cruise the U.S. I'm trying to think out the details but I think I'm irrationally hung up on 450hp vs 475hp.

I don't want a supercharger or turbocharger, seems overkill for what I want and I like the vanilla engine note of a carbed V8. Auto transmission because I can't imagine driving thousands of miles and shifting all the way, that and driving in NJ is a big enough pain in the ass already.

At this rate I might as well have it dialed down to 425hp.

Which is best, the Chevy Cobalt, Pontiac G5, or Saturn Ion? I'm looking into sedans.

Can't speak for the latter two but I'd rule out the Chevy cobalt. Very stiff and not exactly comfortable ride, cramped interior, and in terms of utility you could do better.

Not per se. Modern F1 cars have amazing fuel economy for churning out nearly 800hp out of their ICE's.

Two identical engines, one tuned for 450, one for 475, is another thing though. For example, if you take a stock 450 and remove all the restriction a manufacturer put on it, give it a mild tune and everything, lean it out (=less fuel) in the lower RPM range, and then it just happens to put out 475, well, yeah, the 475 can make both more power and get more mpg. However, from a manufacturer's standpoint, unless the extra 25 hp comes from a hybrid system, more power = more fuel.

>there are cases when less hp will use more fuel
This. A Prius at it's limit will burn more fuel than a cruising 1M at the same pace.

>there is a side of engine tuning called thermal dynamics its too complex for me to grasp
Unifag here, it's too complicated for 90% of people here to grasp within a single year of ramming it down our throats. Thermal dynamics is simply applied magic.

>Turbo's are cheap
>Weight reduction is expensive
Literally what.

Go look up Ecomodder, there's a whole slew of cheap to do mods that'll get you better MPG. Main problem: the driver.

You're talking about spending 50K+ USD (at the very minimum, for a very shoddy build), and you're worried about the fuel economy difference between a 425 and 450hp engine. Sort your priorities.

500hp n/a is easy nowadays, so you're not wrong that a turbo or supercharger is overkill. I'd get rid of the carburetor, and install fuel injection system instead, that might even double your MPG. An old school 3 or 4 speed automatic is slow, lethargic, useless on anything but a dragstrip, and has big internal losses. Consider using a modern 8 speed automatic instead.

With EFI, you can have a 300/400hp base tune for street use (with relatively great MPG), suitable for regular low octane pump fuel. Then, when you need power and have good fuel, you can turn it up to 450, maybe even more. 450 isn't even that impressive when you build a stroker SBF.

A heavy, and heavily compromised, hot hatch that uses a FWD-biased AWD system to add some more weight. A good daily driver, especially compared to the harsh Focus RS, but a jack of all trades and therefore terrible at anything in specific.

Depends on the car.

Nah, but it's cheaper to just buy a V8 at that point.

>Literally what.

R&D.

Adding a turbo is easy.

Making light, strong, innovative parts with a reasonable cost of production is very, very costly as a whole. Paying engineers and analysts is expensive, not accounting for capital costs if new manufacturing processes are required to be implemented. Especially if they make a mistake that causes parts failures when put into production.

From a consumer perspective you're right, from a business perspective you're in way deeper than you think you are

I see now, doesn't seem to be any getting around the basic principle of more power = more consumption without failing emissions inspection, thanks.
Actually we're talking starting at 150+ USD for a very good build, and I'm more concerned for how often I'll be having to stop for fuel or running out in the middle of a desert.

I'm not giving up the eight carbs for fuel injection, I'm too vain. SAme reason I'd opt out of a super/turbo, annoying high pitched whine takes away from that sweet sweet rumble and roar.

The option for auto transmission is overdrive, which would help counter the engine and it's fuel needs considerably, which on open roads where constant speed can be maintained for many miles is the norm.

I'm going off the options listed on the website of the company that build these cars brandnewmusclecar.com/eleanor-mustang.html

And under their process they have an order form brandnewmusclecar.com/assets/BNMC_Eleanor_Order_Form_329879.pdf

When I launch my car the entire car rattles until the car settles and drives normally.
Doesn't happen any other time other than dropping clutch at med to high
It just like shakes and rattles.
It's MR
Is my clutch the issue or suspension?

>Driving normally
>Sink clutch to shift up
>Hear pop
>Clutch sinks to the floor
What happened? Do I need a new clutch?

You don't put the race tune on when you go for emissions testing. Emissions don't matter anyways, those BNMC guys are using a classic shell and corresponding VIN.

Why stick with carbs, when fuel injection looks and sounds better? Pic related.

If you can't appreciate a good blower whine, you're a faggot - but we already knew that when you were shopping for a faggy, overpriced, unoriginal, ugly Eleanor copy. Hell, you probably won't ever have 150K USD.

That ''overdrive'' transmission only has a single overdrive gear. The manual 6 speed has a double overdrive, which is the most fuel efficient, not to mention less internal losses. They'll probably do a modern 8 or 10 speed auto though, it's just not on the build sheet - but that would still have problems matching a similarly expensive manual in terms of MPG. If you're desperate for range, why not add a bigger fuel tank? Or use an engine that wasn't designed in 1958? You probably don't even know the difference between a BBF, SBF and a Mod, so I'm probably talking to deaf ears here anyway.

assuming it's hydraulic, maybe there's a leak and air got in the line

bleed it, find your leak, replace what you need, hope that's all it is.

if it's just in the pedal, it's usually fluid related.

if it's mechanical clutch, try and adjust it on the firewall.

Add.: Several companies make carb replacement EFI kits. Looks like a four barrel carb, sounds like a four barrel carb, but doesn't smell like one because it isn't pumping masses of unburnt fuel into your exhaust. Still won't make a BBF do anywhere over 15 MPG though.

Picture.

What the fuck are you doing that's so tough on your gloves? Just get some fucking stick welding gloves.

There is a little rust on the inside of my sills

Looking at a Waxoyl cavity wax. Stuff says it kills old rust and prevents new rust..

I assume that means it seals and stops existing rust from spreading. Is this possible? Does rust stop spreading if sealed properly?

They give you the option of a sourced and restored shell or a brand new one. I get the bit about detuning for emissions testing but I doubt they'd be able to let an engine that they didn't think would pass it roll of their lot, as they'd have the EPA crawling up their ass.

As for why I want carbs, it's what I want, that's all there is to it, justifying every harmless action I make is nonsensical. Don't assume I don't appreciate other stuff just because I like what I like, it's just that FJ isn't the way I wan't to go.

As for the Eleanor copy, absolutely not, I don't like the Eleanor at all, BNMC can make a straight factory correct replica that looks like it rolled out of a Detroit motor plant yesterday, which is exactly what I want. Factory AM/FM radio, fold down rear seats with trunk pass-through, gas cap mounted between the tail lights, functional interior and rear wheel brake vents, crank windows, the whole shebang.

And I'm not shying away from it being a replica, I don't want an original, for the stuff I want to do with the car an original just isn't feasible. GT500's are a rare car to begin with. You can't shit on reproductions at large either because like it or not, rust happens and repros are eventually going to be the only way people will get to enjoy these designs in the future. And if rust doesn't keep them out of the hands of enthusiasts then price certainly can, cars can get so old that their value starts appreciating considerably, some made even 30 years ago have gone for upwards of 250K.

As for the larger fuel tank, I hadn't really considered that, having imagined I'd sooner keep a jerry can in the trunk for emergencies but a larger fuel tank would decrease the likelihood of needing to use it at all. The other issue with that is the potential increase of the weight making it moot but that's a stretch too I think.

If I found a pretty cheap Lexus gs300 that's a bit old (2002) but seems to be in good shape, should I get that or pay a bit less for some tiny shit like an Aygo and get really low costs? I could get one that's significant newer.

I just go 10 km to work and home every day and not much else.

What is a cold air intake? What does it do?

Furthermore, sticking to my guns with the auto though, manual is not feasible as I just fucking hate it, and on top of NJ's third world road conditions half of my area is chock full of hadjis that drive like they're still in Pakistan, one less thing to worry about.

As for the pricetag, direct loans for 84 months exist and why can't an ethnic Kekistani be rich and successful?

Dual-mass flywheel that shakes "back and forth" after the initial jolting motion of "launching"?

They would though, since they're not an official manufacturer, just a restorer. EPA doesn't give a shit.

You're dead set on doing something stupid, and you refuse to accept the consequences (bad MPG in this case). Just use an EFi conversion like this , unless you're dead set on getting 8-10MPG highway.

You can have an old Mustang rebuilt to look like a GT500 (or a Boss 429 if you had actual taste). Modifying them in this way will only cost you money, money which you will never get back. Classic Mustangs are appreciating ever more, and they're worth more stock.

If you empty that fuel tank for track use, it's just an empty shell sitting in the back.

Just hating manual, and refusing to learn how to oeprate one properly, will cost you in terms of MPG. If you seriously think that using a manual harms your ability to drive, you should consider getting off the road.

You have no financial responsibility, no line of income, and you're probably underaged. Git out.

Aygos are great to hoon, and it'll be plenty for a small commute. Enjoy your fuel savings.

It takes in cold air, allegedly making more power because cold air is denser. Most are bogus though.

>Kekistani
Fuck off and KYS yourself you fucking newfaggot

I need help diagnosing a problem.

Sometimes after driving my car hard (like accellerating fast and slamming the pedal) the cars rpms will jump/surge erratically when coasting and not even touching the pedal. This only happens sometimes after hard driving.

Maf sensors are fine, throttle bodies are clean, and i dont believe there is a vaccum leak otherwise this would happen more consistantly or all the time right?

>This. A Prius at it's limit will burn more fuel than a cruising 1M at the same pace.
i too remember this top gear episode

no, really. they had Teh St1g in a prius going flat out versus clarkson in an M3 AMG Black Arcade Edition ver 4.20 or whatever, and the beamer consumed less fuel because he wasn't constantly banging the redline

>It takes in cold air, allegedly making more power because cold air is denser. Most are bogus though.

In addendum to this anons point, thanks to the modern wonders of computerized engine management, when you install it the computer will automatically compensate for the fact there is more air coming in.

Stock airboxes can make ridiculous horsepower and are typically not even close to the first choke point for engine tuning.

>Hey martin
>Hey martin
>Hey martin
>Check this out
youtube.com/watch?v=gCi2yo4UqPI

Is it harmful for a 75HP 2002 shitbox, to drive it at low rpm's in a high gear?

Let's say at 45 km/h in 5th gear at 1500 rpm.

No. They were basically designed to be driven like that for their fuel economy testing. Just don't lug the engine to the point where it stutters.

Alright well aside from the irrational assumptions about me you based on nothing I'll definitely be doing more homework on Holly EFI's, so thanks.

Yes, they rightfully get mocked. Especially the Tesla threads.

>based on nothing
Based on:
>Your lack of automotive knowledge
>Your stubbornness
>Your insistence on inferior technology
>Your pipedream of an unaffordable car
>Your willingness to get a hilariously expensive loan on a depreciating asset
>Your memes

Are reconditioned fuel injectors fine for an average shitbox? How much should one expect to pay per injector?