1.6 Miata. Turbo or supercharger and why?

1.8

350 chevy. cheaper and faster

mighty car mods did an episode on this and their take on it was as simple as this.

for the street? supercharger
for the track? turbocharger

so, which is your car going to be on mostly?

I absolutely despise turbo lag, so a supercharger. Or a tiny turbo, but then why?

KL swap

>not a dual sequential twin scroll variable geometry setup

Rotary swap, but if I had 2 pick 1 of those I'd say supercharger because I hate turbo lag a lot.

F20C swap

I imagine there is a reason why centrifugals are almost never installed by OEM's. If they were the best of both worlds, automakers would use them more.

13b swap

>Not a K20/24
Faggots.

That reason is a lack of development. The only companies developing them (Rotrex, ProCharger) are aiming directly at the aftermarket, where they're perfect.

>wanting a honda element engine in your car
4 cylinder engines just aren't cool, they don't sound cool either

centrifugal s/c are designed for aftermarket use, they can easily fit into most stock engine bays

roots blowers are better if you can design the engine bay around the supercharger which is why OEMs use them

To add to this: positivie displacement blowers (Roots/Twin screw) snugly fit into V valleys. Great for packaging.

I want this so fucking bad

Has anyone swapped in a 7m from an old supra? I imagine that could be neat.

Supercharger kits for the miata are shit. Theres no development for them since everyone just does turbos. If you want to beat your head against the wall trying to get it to run well, go for it. Otherwise just stick with turbos since there are a ton of proven setups and huge support.

make it 1.8 then turbo it

supercharger because i've never used one and would like to

>I imagine that could be understeer incarnate.
ftfy

Rotrex kits for the NA and NB exist, are cheap, and have excellent aftermarket support. Getting it to run well is simple, about the same as a turbo setup actually (on the intake side). There are multiple proven Roots and centrifugal blower options, and massive support from the aftermarket. It's just a matter of time before Rotrex or ProCharger finally release a CVT-centrifugal suitable for a ~2L I4, which would make for the best boost curve of them all. You're just talking out of your ass here.

Mazda K-series is best K-series

Rover k series

Get a 1.8 and Turbo that

Naturally aspirated. Work on driver mods first. Tires, wheels, coilovers second. Once you can slip all 4 tires into a corner at maximum entry speed without oversteer or understeer, raise your power level by buying a faster car.

>Work on driver mods first. Tires, wheels, coilovers second
this is such a fucking meme

the car can't even kick the back out even if you stomp the gas while going around a wet corner. The car needs more power first, and foremost.

That's because you are a slow driver.

The car not being able to kick the back out is more to do with the 50/50 weight distribution. The anemic power doesn't help but it's not the main factor

buddy, I can go around a corner with the tires REEEEEEEing and the back will not slide out much, if at all

I'm not your buddy, guy.

Did you just assume my gender?

>stomping on the accelerator into a corner and understeering like a bitch
>not using weight transfer to do sikk skids

Good luck getting any skids on a 50/50 weight distribution and a 1.6L engine making 115bhp

It's not that hard to spin the rear wheels in a stock 1.6 bruv

Ecotec swap it for cheap na power

v12 swap

Turbos are easier to intercool because there's a shit ton of cheap ass kits to choose from.

w24 swap

Sound like shit and are overdone.

A much better bang for your buck swap would be a 4th gen 3S-GTE. Cheapest way to reliably achieve 600 hp.

Alternatively, if you want to go the NA route, you could just throw in a BEAMS 3S-GE or a 2ZZ.