Best used truck sub $3k?

I am looking for a truck or SUV for work/utility and would like something that is reliable and easy to work on. I live in NH so unfortunately all the older stuff is rotted to hell, so it's hard to find nice examples of anything pre 1996. Only got maybe $3k max I could do.

How do first gen silverado's and 10th gen f150's hold up in comparison to the 4th gen c/k and 9th gen's?

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nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/1999-ford-ranger-xlt-no-rust/6357403460.html
nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/2000-toyota-rav4/6359601703.html
nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/2003-honda-crv-lx-5-speed/6360474280.html
nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/98-honda-crv-4x4-5-spd-4/6350175527.html
youtu.be/SAZsP83VyS0
susanville.craigslist.org/cto/d/1992-chevy-4x4-5-speed/6361326132.html
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3k civic with conversion kit

fucking lul. where you located op? market varies widely across the nation

Read the OP again

Dude I posted that as a joke lol I didnt even know that civic truck conversion kits existed 5 minutes ago.

Also im in Greece

tfw no 4wd EG truck with a few simple mods

>Why even live

>How do first gen silverado's and 10th gen f150's hold up in comparison to the 4th gen c/k and 9th gen's?

nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/1999-ford-ranger-xlt-no-rust/6357403460.html

nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/2000-toyota-rav4/6359601703.html

nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/2003-honda-crv-lx-5-speed/6360474280.html

nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/98-honda-crv-4x4-5-spd-4/6350175527.html

To clarify when I mean SUV I am talking RWD or 4wd like XJ,ZJ,broncos,k5's etc

Def a chevy C/K with a 5.7. They will last beyond the apocalypse

Like a rock. Mine is still running strong.

you're not going to get anything good for 3k. save your money until you have at least 5-7k

youtu.be/SAZsP83VyS0

>Work truck

this to an extent.

Front end steering components are their greatest weakness.
Tie rods, ball joints, pitman arms, and rag joints.
Anything that has a moog alternative component, go with that. Don't cheap on them. These trucks eat their front end components.

Otherwise the 5.7 vortec is pretty bullet proof. Suck for making power on the stock intake/EFI systems but they're super reliable and 255hp &330ft/lbs of torque are plenty to haul most modest loads/trailers.

Their interior is still fairly shitty GM 90s/2000's tier.

Other common things: blower motor resistors, fuel sending units, and door handles like to break if you man handle them. Also door pin bushings. Replace both door pins with new bushings at the same time or it'll keep wearing them out if you just do whichever is bad.

I traded a $1000 focus for my 97 K1500 with the 5.7.
Nothing was noticeably bad driving it but I found after owning it for 3-4 months there was considerable play in the ball joints and hubs. $600 in parts from rock auto got me moog ball joints, tie rods, pitman arm, pitman arm bracket, hub assemblies - what would of cost me $1000+ for the moog stuff at a parts store.

Otherwise I've also had to put a starter in it and a fuel pump. Has 178k miles so nothing I'm too upset with. I've driven it as a daily for the last year since I got it and have pulled a lot of stuff with it.

Big fan of them just check them for frame rust, you'll be hard pressed finding one that isnt rusty up north/midwest.

After owning several gmt400s.

His best bet is to find a K series with a 350 tbi. The tbi is usually cheaper and a little more reliable than the efi, just don't expect over 200hp out of a tbi 350.

Anyways, find a tbi 350 and rrplace the stock heads with Vortec heads. The Vortecs flow better and tbi heads suck dick. Swap the water pump too if you go with tbi, they like to shit out. Don't fall for the back pressure in the exhaust meme. Back pressure is bad and kills power but make sure you keep the x or y pipe in the exhaust, straight pipes are obnoxious and when not done right, hurt power.

At the same time, dont expect anything over 300 hp unless youre going carbed and swapping internals, the tbi can't handle it.

Always check door handles, water pump, vacuum lines, exhaust pipes, and distributor, these are notorious weak spots.

Does the transmission choice matter as much as the engine, or should any of them be okay?

I am not going to be doing heavy use (as of current) mostly commuting, picking up stuff and possible construction work, maybe towing if I find a project car.

Trans wise you either get a 4 speed auto or a 5 speed manual trans. Both are fine, I like the 5 speed because I like the control.

i'd say they hold up like a hay bail in a pastor brother.

The 4L60E is fine if you take care of it, regardless of what people say. I've got one with nearly 300k miles and a chipped planetary. Goes right to redline and gets right up to the engine cutout of 100mph.

Would also recommend the TH400, 4L80 and 5L80 as well. Maybe do some servo mods or mod it so you can just row your own gears.

>I traded a $1000 focus for my 97 K1500 with the 5.7.

mfw rayp
susanville.craigslist.org/cto/d/1992-chevy-4x4-5-speed/6361326132.html

Come pick up my rust free '74 hilux for 3k in OR. X74,000 miles on it 18RC under the hood.