QTDDTOT : Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Threads

Does anyone know the bolt pattern for a Land Rover ZF 4HP22 transmission? I'm trying to figure out if it's possible to swap one out for a Chrysler 727.

Anyone have any suggestions for the smallest truck or vehicle that has a covered area to work on cars? So you drive the truck to the client, drive their car into the cargo area and work on it in there?

I don't do regular maintenance work, I do blasting, which is why it needs to be covered.

So for a while I've had a squeaking from my front end. The worst part about it is I absolutely can't get it to squeak in any situation other than when I'm driving above 10-15 mph and turning left. Can't get it to do it when I've got the car in the air so I can actually find where it's coming from. I've thoroughly inspected ball joints and tie rods on both sides, and there is absolutely zero play that would indicate bad tie rods or ball joints. I've also inspected every single boot to make sure none of them have split and lost grease causing whatever part it is to squeak, and absolutely nothing is out of the ordinary. The car is only 8 years old after all. I'm thinking it may be a sway bar bushing or sway bar end link at this point, but am still worried it might be a ball joint that will pop out on me while I'm going fast and I'll be fucked. Should I be worried about bad ball joints JUST because of this sound?

TL;DR could ball joints be bad even if there's no play with the "ball joint test"?

They are incredibly slow but super practical for in-city use. Why not just get a Civic Hatchback?

did you check your wheel bearings?

aint nothing going to be big enough for your to be blasting in there and road legal

I had a relay problem that meant my headlights stopped working, I swapped the headlight & horn relays and now both are working. should I replace the faulty relay, or is it not worth it since the horn is working anyway (which makes no sense to me)?

>turn head lights on
>tail lights don't work at all
>turn head lights off
>i get my brake lights back

what do?

How do I drift my RWD automatic pickup truck?

rain+roundabout+1st-2nd gear lock depending on how shit your truck is.

Are Porsche Cayennes good in reliability?

Exactly how much of a cop magnet would a red civic type R be?

Is the manual transmission in a c6 corvette durable?

no and you're a fag for even considering one.
Buying a cayenne is the equvilent of going to a sex store, buying a big pink dog dong and telling to the cashier "lol I'm single, its for me"

Bumpan
>how do I get kbb from buy here pay here place

Anything i should know about the transmissions on a BMW 328i? Do the manuals have short or long shifts? whats the maintenance interval on these things usually?

Yeah, wouldn't bad wheel bearings be indicated by play in the wheels when up in the air (and with no load on the control arms)? Wheels are completely solid. I'm rather positive it's the sway bars because it'd make the most sense given the specific conditions it occurs in, but I'm just looking for some outside input.

The size of the car relative to the corner is proportional.

Is this the proper racing line for a fwd car?
If not, can you draw the racing line?

Is the racing line different if you insist on drifting?

But my dad's rich and he want's to retire and have a great car. I tried to talk him into a 911 Turbo but he needs the utility and the extra ride height. Yes, I mentioned the Panamera Turbo as well. Still no.

zfhp422's came in BMW's too, namely 80's 535i and 735i's so it maybe easier to source the info from them.

Why do you keep asking this? Proper racing line depends on the the weight/balance of the car, the conditions, and what material you're driving on.

Drifting has more to do with power at the right moment.

Stock shifting on BMW's of that era is long.

Pretty much anything over 100k miles almost all service items have to be done, suspension, cooling, belts etc, everything short of clutch if it hasn't been driven hard.

is buying a citro BX for a first car a dumb thing? i see decent ones for around a 1000 bucks here (hungary) and i really like how comfy these things are, and no, i dont find them hideous, but i mean, these things are old. maybe anyone here has some citro BX experience? thx lads

>Why do you keep asking this?
Because I "keep" not getting answers.

>weigh
How does the racing line differ between a heavy car, and a light car?

>balance
How does the racing line differ between a front heavy car, and a rear heavy car?

>conditions
How does the racing line differ between dry, wet, and snowy conditions?

>material
How does the racing line differ between concrete, dirt, and gravel?

Is pic related on the left ever the racing line?

Is pic related on the right ever the racing line?

Looking for a mid-size SUV and found this 2006 Ford Explorer 4x4 at 190k miles for $4k excluding other stuff

But then i checked carfax and it has 4 owners already and went into an accident described "Involving right front impact with another motor vehicle", is this something to be worried about?

Going to the dealer tomorrow to take a look at it and see if its really shit

kbbreport.com/1FMEU73E96UA95259

>Is pic related on the left ever the racing line?
>Is pic related on the right ever the racing line?
Never ever

dude even the bus tickets you spend on the trip are not worth this piece of garbage, but you seem to have the good ol oneitis, so whatever, i hope when you see that shit irl youll get to your senses

Will an aftermarket muffler alone make my car any louder? Can’t find any cheap cat backs for my car

What's the quickest way to clean a head and block surface? Acetone and scotchbrite?

Yes, but why not go full custom? Exhausts usually aren't too spendy to have installed assuming you buy the stuff you want yourself.

INSURANCE

>Get into accident with self (very stupid mistake)
>car looks totaled
>Change insurance deductible to lowest ($100) from original $1000
>wait one day
>call it in
>insurance suspects fraud
>asks me for phone calls
>called four tow companies and three mechanics the minute accident happened
>dates won't match

What do you think will happen?
kicked off insurance?
car written off and nothing?

pls help, sweating bullets.

>turn on heater for the first time this year
>turn it off when the day gets warmer
>feel warm gusts of air that smell like exhaust coming from behind the dashboard, in sync with the engine revving

Did I melt a seal on something? Driving with my windows down isn't a big deal for me, but it's only gonna get colder from here on out...

That's probably where your car pulls in outside air from. Unless you smell coolant I wouldn't worry.

Is it dumb to buy a Civic ex from 2006, 2007 or 2008 giving the cracked block issues they get?

My sister is planning to buy an 2008 ex with 115k miles tomorrow. The 2009s are about 1k more.

I misspoke, I think I meant instrument cluster and not the whole dashboard. The air is coming out from one side of it only. Pic related.

Why not buy electric valve and have it welded on? Hit the button when you want it loud or quiet.
Well look at the rear bumper lol, it's not even on. So you could look that the new has front parts and paint. Check the fender matches the door, if not it was a cheap repair. I wouldn't worry. It was most likely just panels otherwise it would've been totaled, assuming the accident wasn't years ago.

Just check if it's been fixed. They were recalled basically. And mine has given me no trouble with its replacement engine

I reversed into this low thing I couldn't see at the servo and scraped my car around the panel over the rear wheel. The damage isn't severe, it didn't look like there was any deep scratches, but there's quite a bit of it. Wondering what I should do about it?
I had a look online and apparently there's ways to go over it or repaint it yourself but I'm not convinced that's a good idea or I'll do a good job without the proper equipment

I would take a clay bar do the area and clean it up as best as possible. I bumped into my friends white plastic fence one time when i wasn't paying attention and most if not all of the white plastic that was on the fender came off. So you probably don't have much to worry about unless you actually scratched the paint off.

Well, desu, you tried to do something that many people have tried before. Insurance companies wouldn't last if fraud was that easy. I would say that maybe if you went in in person and explained what you did and that you're sorry and will go with the original plan, they might keep you. However they still might kick you off and refused to cover the car. OR they might say fuck you, keep you and charge you the original deductible. In either case, good luck =X

soft wire wheel, plenty of lubricant, fine sand paper and maybe some steel wool. Won't do anything if you need the head/block milled and resurfaced.

Has anyone gotten a reckless driving in Wake County, NC (919 area)? If so, how rekt am I going to get? My lawyer was kind of ambiguous when I asked him. Was doing 105 in a 70 if that matters.

I took another look at it. The thing I hit was concrete, no idea what you call it. Kinda like a bollard. Anyway it looks like the clay bar would clean up most of it but some of the paint did come off. My understanding is I should do something about it or risk rust. Is it a diy job?
Also further back on the bumper there's some paint chipped off, although not too bad. There's also a big white mark, can't tell if it's paint from the thing I hit or damage to the bumper

Anyone have experience with Subaru WRXs?

Drove one today and loved it. Looking at getting one.

Main question is, am I a bitch if I don't spring for the STI? I've heard that the WRX is better than the STI even with the smaller engine, so I don't want to pay extra for no tangible benefit.

Thanks for the reply. It doesn't seem like it has and it's kind of like buying a ticking time bomb not knowing when it'll fail, or knowing you have a weak engine block.

I decided it's better to pass since there's a few 2009s and 2011s for not too much more.

I got a 2004 Infiniti FX35 as basically a hand-me-down. It's got 150,000 miles on it, but it's been maintained like shit.

Right now the car shakes (particularly noticeable when I'm stopped at a light) and the AC doesn't blow cold (frion recharge didn't fix it, so I'm thinking it's the compressor). Is it worth keeping and fixing, or should I sell it?

The bcm controls all the electronics. The pcm controls the engine parts. Bad pcm perhaps..?

Replace your tail light bulbs. The filament can break and ground out in the bulb itself. I've seen it happen more than once and it's a cheap fix. Bad grounds cause all sorts of weird shit.

Maybe. I just figured that since I couldn't get the scan tool to connect that it must be the bcm. Do you know if they can be tested outside of the car?

If you're talking new, I'd go for the WRX over the STI. It's got a better torque curve than the STI, but the newer engine might not have the same aftermarket. The suspension also isn't nearly as rough if you'll be DDing it.
Dunno how much modding you'll be doing, but that would also affect the decision.

I doubt that you could test one out of the car. Verify you have power and ground at the obd port itself. Possibly a blown fuse somewhere. When things break, fuses sometimes snap.

could be ball joint, lots more pressure on them when the car is on the ground being driven on

is it a long drawn out squeaking? does it do it the entire duration of you turning, does it also squeak when the steering is returning to center?

Why are subbie transmissions so irritating to drive?

I have an '03 BMW 325i E46 and a few days ago I got a red battery light on the dash, and then a bunch of lights started turning on, so I pulled over and turned off my car, and when I tried to start it again, it wouldn't.
So after a jump start from a friend, the car would run but then the red battery light would appear once more. So after I got home, I remove the battery and took it to autozone.
They said the battery was drained but it hasn't failed yet. So they charged it and I put back in my car.

My car starts but the red battery light is still on the dash.
I used a Multi meter, and it says 12.61 volts when the car is off and 12.20 volts when the car is on.
I'm starting to think my alternator or voltage regulator might be fucked, or worse, I might have a parasitic battery drain.

What do?

You're starting to think right. Your batter isn't charging. Probably need an alternator.

>be 25 years old+
>no accidents
>no tickets
>4 doors and backseats
>low displacement
>not considered a sports car
>not fast
>old enough to be cheap, but not so old that it is unsafe
Insurance is a meme, forced insurance is a scam

New and yes, it will be a DD.

Check power and ground to the module. If that checks out check CAN hi and lo with a multimeter. Should be ~2.2v/2.6v (your meter is just seeing an average of voltage, just a quick way to check if there's any communication at all). Beyond that you need a scope to go further.

probably your alternator or the wiring between the 2. or both
just looked up on yourtube how to do it, you're lucky, it doesnt seem that hard. reaplce your serpentine belt while you're at it if it needs it.

any opinions on what I should do about the damage to the paint?

Don't have the car right now but I'll check it out next week. I know 5 and 6 are fine as I've done the paperclip trick without an issue. Cheers m8

What is this little piece inbetween the coin holder and the rear view window wiper button?

Its removable so I assume you can put something in its place. It's a 1985 toyota celica gt

It's a dead button for a feature not included on the car

Thats what I assumed. Any idea what to do with it?

ejecto seato cuz

A Cayenne Turbo is actually a lot cheaper than the 911 Turbo but you won't get the actual 911 sports car Turbo feel, except you have the most powerful Cayenne that rivals with the best, i.e Range Rovers, etc

A Cayenne Turbo is the best option here for your dad.

nice place to put a USB/AUX port leading to your audio setup so long as it has a cover to it

that is really fucked, a good battery should be like 13v-14v

Came home to see my classic CRX got door dinged by some asshole who parks in my lot. There’s no footage in the area, and after asking around if anyone saw, I got nothing. I just had a LEO write up a hit and run report in case I make an insurance claim.

This will need the dent repair and new paint, will it be cheaper to just take it to the shop snd hsve them rix the panel and repaint it, or to file the claim and pay the $250 deductible? I assume that any hit without a assailant goes under my collision deductible.

Help me Veeky Forumsbi wan ken/o/bi, you’re my only hope.

Fellow Honda enthusiast here. What an asshole for not at least leaving a note. Anyways, it might be cheaper in the long run to get get it done and leave your insurance out of it. There is a chance your insurance could go up for filing a claim.

Today I curbed the shit out of my car around 50mph into a curb hit it with the side of the wheel. Tire doesn't leak air and it pulls somewhat hard to the right. Did I bend my tie rod or did I fuck the rim up. There is no play in the wheel I lifted that side off the ground.

The fuck? Look at your wheel. Is it bent? If it's pulling while driving you probably fucked up your alignment. If the steering wheel shakes at speed, you likely have a bent wheel. Also, pay more attention when you drive.

The wheel looks fine chipped to fuck though. No vibration at speeds over 80mph took it on the highway after. I'll probably take both front wheels off tomorrow and compare them to see if it's bent. I feel like a fuck it's a very curvy 25mph road pretty much the only one near me.

Alright, well for the squeaking...
It's sort of a repetitive squeaking or even squealing some might call it, like squeak-squeak-squeak-squeak, and though it's hard to tell I think it squeaks faster the faster I'm going. Absolutely will not happen at very low speeds or when the car is stationary. Only happens during the duration of the turn. Doesn't happen with minor steering input. Happens when going through a roundabout or turning a corner at like 15mph for instance.
It's all these factors that make me think it's a sway bar related thing, because those are circumstances where the sway bar will be taking a decent load on it with the body wanting to roll. The only thing that contradicts this is it sounds a LOT like it's coming from the left, but my ears have deceived me from the drivers seat before. If I'm turning left, it'd be the right sway bar taking the load...
Perhaps I'll just replace the ball joints anyways, as little money as I currently have to spend on shit that could be unnecessary, it's better safe than sorry on that. If that ends up not being it, whatever I've got new ball joints and at least know the squeaking probably doesn't have the potential to kill me. I'm gonna try to zero in on the source of the squeaking with some silicone grease for now I think.

Post pic

>clutch was feeling really light and numb not spongy
>engagement point is getting higher than i remember
>decide to try and bleed it
>bleed it a bit, barely any air bubbles come out and i do this for a bit feeling the res once and awhile dont take that much out bleed it maybe 13~ times of pumping the pedal and opening the bleed screw
>go for a test drive
>not that much changed but feels better

I guess my clutch is just on the way out, it doesn't slip and i can still go WOT. But just doesn't feel like it has the same response or power it use to. How much resistance are you suppose to feel on the clutch pedal? I don't know if mine is just normal or what. I just remember when i first got it i could feel everything in the clutch, like when i was shifting i could feel the clutch engaging and a bit of that rotational vibration in my feet etc. Now i don't really feel much of that.

what does Veeky Forums think of cheverlot impalas made in 2005?
Feel like it would be a good daily, considering the police used them

Having an issue with RPM.
The car drives fine when cold but once it gets up to temp it hesitates around 2000 to 2500 rpm at part throttle and when I lift off the throttle the car will jerk and drop revs a bit quicker than usual.

I've replaced:
- spark plugs
- leads are fine
- coil pack is only 1.5 years old
- replaced fuel pump
- fuel filter is less than 1 year old
- O2 sensors were replaced with used ones
- IAC valve was replaced with a used one

I should note that this has been an ongoing issue the last couple months and has gotten worse. Sometimes the car will misfire on the highway or have trouble taking off. Car sometimes has trouble starting but not on first startup.

If someone could please give me some ideas before I take it to the mechanics on Monday.

Is this a good deal or nah? What happens to a car when it sits too long? Could you potentially start and run it with fresh fluids+battery?

I know it says no title, but in my state you have to take the car and reapply for an in-state title anyways, whether or not you have an out of state title or not.

What's a good way to learn to drive manual for someone who doesn't have access to someone with a manual to learn? I have driven a stick before, but it was almost over 10 years ago and it was a rebuilt '73 F100 Pick-up back when I first got my license once, and that was it. None of my friends have manual transmission cars, and my sister has a fuccboi ST and she won't let me even look at it.

I ask because I'm looking at getting a new car preferably with a manual transmission, and don't want to fuck up during the test drives.

Its just a rolling body in that state desu, the 7M is a fucking piece of shit . Buy it and strip the entire car and rebuild or dont buy it

Try swapping plug wires with a known good set and using a very light amount of dielectric grease on coilpack plugs and battety terminals. Check barrety wiring while you are at it , grounds and shit

Also check ur fuel rail, fpr, fuel trims, injectors and their wiring harness+connectors
Few years ago i had light stutter at idle turmed out to be a tiny bit of corrosion in one of my injector connectors. Dont ask how it got corroded though, no idea

Honestly sounded 100% like fuel pump but u did that already.

Clogged cat/shitty o2?

What do you figure the cost would increase by? I know I could make my deductible, but not much more. Not repairing isn’t an option in my climate, it’ll turn right into rust. What do you think of the short term costs?

Veeky Forums I am getting my winters installed. They are already on wheels, I bought them last season. It is $30 to install them and $70 for install + rebalance. Last season, I felt they weren't balanced that well (noisy, vibration, etc) but I don't have a perfect memory and I also know winters are a lot louder anyway.

Question is, should I bother rebalancing? Does it make more sense to just install them rn and rebalance later if there's a bunch of vibration? I can't decide

Stupid question ahoy!

I have never owned a car with built in Sat Nav. I use one I can connect to my computer and keep up to date.

How do you go about updating one that is fitted to the car? I have no issue using my existing one, but obviously if I can use the built in one then that would be great.

I own a 2014 C-Class and I never use the GPS in it. I rather use the GPS on my phone. The last time I used the GPS in it was like 2 years back.

That was a question I meant to ask as well. My data plan isn't amazing, so if I needed to use it without downloading it for offline use first, how much data do you think it uses? I frequently make journeys around 100 miles and I didn't know how much data that would use.

>How do you go about updating one that is fitted to the car?
Dealerships used to have DVDs that update the maps. You may or may not be charged for the update.

>I frequently make journeys around 100 miles and I didn't know how much data that would use.
It shouldn't use a lot. Typically it'll use data to download the initial route a bit of the surrounding area, maybe 20-40mb. If this is a concern, I think there are plenty of apps that let you download routes and areas in advance... so do that when you have wifi