Hey Veeky Forums, I took the head off my engine(and it's worthless and I'm getting a remanu one) and I'm assuming my block is ok because it looks ok so i'm not gonna touch it and just clean it up a little. My problem is the person that had it before me(the head gasket didn't fail on me) ran this bitch hard and hot as hell and either ruined a radiator, or poured a shit ton of stop leak in the radiator to try and fix the head gasket. There is sand/particles clogging up every coolant passage in the head/block and while I'm gonna blast them out with compressed air and pore a shit ton of radiator flush in the car when it's back together: what else should I do? should I be tearing apart AC heater lines? the coolant hoses look clean, but the inside of the block is fucked up. any advice? should I even be worried?
Hey Veeky Forums...
just from looking at that picture, the vehicle is not worth saving either way
looks like you need to visit the scrap yard and leave the pos there
Did you inspect water pump?
dont listen to the faggots above. Just the fact that its a beautiful inline 6 means it should be saved.
You need to flush everywhere the coolant went and that includes the heater hoses. You dont necessarily need to be worried as those are just coolant passages so its not like the cars going to blow up. However it is pretty much guaranteed to overheat with all that shit blocking the passages, so make sure you get as much of it out as possible.
longitudinally mounted inline 6... what kind of bmw you runnin?
Well there aren't many transverse bimmers.
Rebuild that shit
Shop has the exact same head and will reman it for $500. Seems fair to me. How might you recommend I flush it though? You aren't talking about the block are you?
Is taking hoses off and blowing them out with compressed air good enough?
Your car is fucked with all that stop leak. you wont be able to ever fully flush it out. youll have small particle build up and it'll circulate through your system causing another solid build up. dont waste your money.
No. Thank you for suggestion!
take the block out, take everything off it, buy new bearings, and gasket kit, take the block to a shop, have them go over it, deck it if necessary, and rebuild it all back together.
its like $500-800 in parts and machine labor.
Why is that?
I got all my timing marked with tie straps lol I'm kinda afraid to lose those marks
Fuck I might have to do this
I guess I'll rebuild the a/c too lol
Where else does coolent go?? E34 525i
Before you go rebuilding, consider just buying a used engine, there are plenty of those.
I did a rebuild and didn't have the skills to do it right so I ended up just buying a used engine from japan.
>in b4 fucking up OP's build
Having some knowledge and some personal PITA experience with these aluminum I6, it is possible you need to redeck the block. Just get the block checked with a straight edge then decide whether to pull short block to swap or rebuild.
Nigger, the car is made to run with certain chemicals only. Oil, Atf, coolant, freeon, steering fluid, brake fluid, gas. having chemical particles getting mixed with where it's not suppose to go causes issues. you dont put power steering fluid with oil in your engine and expect it to run.
will you get out most of stop leak? probably. but is your car ruined from stop leak circulating through your vehicle. Yes. go ahead and take it to a machine shop, they can repair your engine.
swap out the radiator and put it new coolant. but that stop leak has destroyed your exhaust system. get everything rebuilt and replaced. youll just have issues after issues. your vehicle is toast.
By the way, you don't just tear your ac system apart. do you even know how r12 freeon works? do you know what happens when you undo a small nut on your condesnor? you cant flush these lines, there is no releasing freeon and using distilled water to flush. you'll fuckin destroy your compressor.the ac/heater system r12 freeon circulates within the same system.
He's talking about the coolant lines running to the heater core.
Old bicycle brake cable core connected to a drill for cleaning cooling passages?
Needs to be completely stripp
>what else should I do?
turbo it
That's end goal, actually, but I figured everyone was gonna shit on me. I found ARP studs for $120 online, however I don't know if I should do a stock HG or thick one. .140 is recommended for low compression, but would it be too low with no turbo? I'm also brand new to tuning so it wouldn't be tuned correctly for a while.
At this point I'm not gonna rebuild the engine but buy one I found on Craigslist for $500 and just replace all the gaskets
If I6 engines are perfectly balanced, why does this thing wobble so much.
Check mate, atheists.
why did you block off the first and last cylinders?
????????????
i put some oil in all of them if that's what you're asking. i was scrubbing the block with a brush and dipping it in one of the cylinders so one of them looks like the oil is dirty. i'm just soaking the cylinder because idk
the pistons are just up on 1 and 6 because that's tdc
OP is that an M50?
if so you can acquire a complete motor for around 300-500$ on craigslist or ebay. The coolant passages look pretty gummed up, the coolant flush might not be able to clean them. Stop leak can make a almost rock/plastic like substance inside those galleys which is almost impossible to clean.
My recommendation is to pull the motor and swap it. it should only cost you 500$ max and maybe 10ish hours if you're new to this. Otherwise I don't see that engine coming back without costing alot of money or breaking down shortly after its put back together.
Pic related both of my N63 blocks. Getting one of them sleeved and honed.
>N63 not even once
whats the point of an inline six. For the same size you can get a V12.......
>half the production cost
>Simpler engine harmonics
>simpler firing order
>can be controlled with one ECU (used to be an issue in the early 80s. most V12s were controlled by twin I-6 ECUs running each bank)
>sweet I-6 noise
>less weight
it all depends on application user. you wouldn't stick a V12 into a econbox would you?
>implying anyone sticks an I6 in an econobox.
>implying bmw wouldn't
there's one for $500 bucks on craigslist 3 hours from me I'm gonna go scoop up thursday. how do you do a compression test with the engine out of the car(hooked up to no starter?) or should I just not bother. it comes with ecu/wiring harness so I can make some money selling the parts anyway if it's a lemon
are you stupid? an inline 6 is probably the easiest thing to work on for an average joe to work on. Look at how much space is in pic related, and thats with a turbo. A v12 is a nightmare to work on for anyone that actually works on/drives their car.