Car battery not charging

Greetings Veeky Forums, first time poster here. I have a 2000 Chevy Metro Lsi like pic related and the battery started dying on me. I first thought it was the alternator but I decided to get the battery checked first. Battery came up bad so I replaced it. Day and a half later the battery died so I went ahead and replaced the alternator since it was 17 years old. Charged the battery, started just fine, drove all day then the battery died again.
If the problem isn’t the battery or the alternator, what could be keeping the alternator from charging the battery?
I would appreciate any advice.

Have the new alternator tested, or test it yourself, rebuilds come bad all the time. Check the new battery also I suppose. Wallmart batteries are shit btw, learned that the hard way.

Did you park it overnight and then your battery was dead? If so you've got a drain on your system somwhere pull the positive with the key out and see if it sparks if so pull fuses untill theres no spark then you'll find where the drain is

If you drove then the battery was just dead immediately afterwards then your alternator is DOA

Batterys are only made by exede and johnson controls. Do some research.

Don't care who makes em, when I went to return mine there was a line of 3 people also returning bad batteries, since the fucks don't believe a mother fucker and want to test themselves on a random ass wednesday some shit is wrong with their batteries.

I put the new alternator and fully charged battery in last night and drove it for a bit. It started perfectly fine this morning and afternoon. I drove it for about an hour and then stopped at the store. It struggled a bit to start at the store and by the time I had driven home it wouldn’t start back up

It’s an ultima rebuilt alternator from Oreilley auto btw

Yeah its walmart. You got a receipt you get a "new" one you don't fuck off. Pretty simple.

"don't believe a mother fucker and want to test themselves on a random ass wednesday some shit is wrong with their batteries"

Don't even know what you mean by this son. Bring a multimeter next time and look for 13.2v if you're so inclined. If you wanna pay close to double for a sticker or *gasp* GLASS MATT be my guest.

Your alternator is dead or one of the systems beside it is. Just take it to autozone they will test it for free.

I doubt you have a drain just appearing out of nowhere unless you did some work on your audio system or some shit. Either your new battery isn't holding a charge or you got a bunk alternator. If you have a multimeter check and make sure you're getting at least 13.5 with the car running.

I meant that as the reason I had to wait around in line for an hour. My punctuation and grammar is bad.

Regardless 4 fools returning batteries at the same time screams that they have QC issues. I took cash back and got another one from the costco next door for 3 dollars more. Didn't have problems with their shit or see a line of fucks returning shit there either.

>Didn't have problems with their shit or see a line of fucks returning shit there either.
That's because Costco also negotiates into the contract terms that penalize the product maker for something that has a ton of returns. And yes, it is possible to make a lot of profit even on something that has a lot of failures. But costco doesn't want any kind of negative reputation for selling trash. That's why you sometimes see in the enclosed literature a plea from the manufacturer to NOT return a defective device to the retail store but to call the manufacturer on the tollfree line and work the problem out. They will either send you a shipping label (free postage) or simply send whatever else you need for the product.

Get the car running and pull the positive and negative terminals off of the battery. If the car is still running your alternator is fine.

That method can fuck up newer cars.

Check corrosion on connections and grounding spots.

Thought my miata had a bad alternator too, replaced the battery, car wouldn't start. Replaced negative lead to ground and sanded down the positive connections and it worked fine.

Use a volt meter and test from positive all the way to where you can't test it anymore, up to the alternator and ignition switch if you can. Make sure its a steady 12v. Any loss can significantly weaken charging.

Oreiley Ultimas are the worst, seriously 1/2 alternators are bad.

You can burn up a computer this way.

Have you actually tested if its charging by using a multimeter?

This is the answer

A brand new battery that is allowed to die generally doesn't take a charge properly again.
Should have checked the alternator first before putting the battery in.

Yup, bad alternators (or leaky rectifier) can ruin the new battery by draining it. The new battery then has its plates sulfated and that is generally incurable.