245/30R20

What the fuck is this? Is there even any air inside or is it just a rubber band?

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I haver 35's and they dont look as bad as that.

It improves road feel by making you feel every inch of the road on your ass

Holy shit, is this stock?

>having a sidewall thickness of anything lower than 45 on a daily

Stock Civic Type R wheels and tires. For reference, the Camaro ZL1 1LE and Viper ACR have 19" wheels.

>civic with dubs from the factory

The second number is the aspect ratio.
Meaning that by itself it has no real value.

195/45 gives a 87.75mm sidewall
225/40 gives a 90mm sidewall.

245/30R20 XL
>extra load

Shitvic type R confirmed heavy as a brick

Seriously these kind of tires are just a pain. Even with the best tire mounting machines and proper paste lube the stress on the bead and sidewall when mounting is enormous. I can't imagine taking them on and off for things like tire repairs are good for the overall integrity. As well the rims are never perfecting round and evenly weighted so sometimes when mounting them you have to deflate and rotate the tire 180° to properly set up the heavy spot on the tire opposite of the rim. With such a stiff tire anything more than 1 oz of wheel weight required inwards or outwards on the rim will produce little vibrations. I'm autistic and run 55 series stock and can feel minuate vibrations above 120 km/h and I only have 1.25 oz total on my rims.

Hitting a bump in that raider must really hurt.

I don't think those would last long where i live.

285/30zr20 fronts and 305/30zr20 rears feelsgoodman

>20"
>dubs
t. retard

What you're describing is called road force, however I don't know where you learned the 180 degree thing. These days balancers measure rim run-out and theoretically you can get the road force down to zero pounds assuming the tire isn't defective and the wheel is relatively smooth. It tells you where to mark the tire and the wheel, then you just line up your marks.

By the way, mounting and dismounting tires does not effect the structural integrity of the sidewall, let alone any other part of the tire. One could argue damage can occur when dismounting if the technician prys too hard on the bead and snaps the steel plies in the sidewall. I've done that myself on high profile setups to save time on dismounting, obviously only when the tires are going to be scrapped.

One more thing I'd like to add, a road force of 10 pounds or lower and it's impossible for a human to feel the run out in the tire. At that point you're feeling how your suspension reacts to the road you're driving on.

I hate low profile tires personally. A chunky higher aspect ratio tire always looks better to me even on street cars.

Forgot to add that the stress on the tire machine, more specifically the duckhead, is quite high when dismounting high profile tires. Anyone who's mounted tires for more than a few months has broken a duckhead at some point. Also not sure where you got the information about too many wheel weights or whatever you were saying, you would be really surprised how smooth a wheel with a bent barrel can be if you balance it correctly. The only time "too many" wheel weights is a thing is when the wheel or tire is defective. Defective tires or wheels can require anywhere from 3 ounces to 100 ounces, wherever you draw the line at too many wheel weights is dependent on how big the wheel is (for room to fit the weights) and the clearance between the weights and the caliper, assuming you're using sticky weights and you have to stack them. This is also assuming the technician didn't counter balance anything.

How's it handle in the rain ?

You are like a little baby...

Lol what a bicycle tire 18x9 265 Master race reporting in

AGreed.
I'm buying these for my mustang. Had these on my old V6 (now I have a V8) and they were great.

Currently 255 front and 285 rear, both low profile. Handles like ass since Houston roads are shit and it's a shit show in the rain.

I don´t get the point of such wheels amd tires:
>rim further outside, increases rotational inertia
>less flex in sidewall, lowers contact patch area
>curbs will bend rim due to lack of airvolume
>vibration absorbance is close to zero
>car looks like owned by nigger
>symetrical 365mm tire

It's worse when you realize that the person buying this rim/tyre combo doesn't know/care about suspension so it's not like the car/chassis/geometry has been dialed in.

Thank fuck they can only travel at like 10mph without blowing up.

I work for a Honda dealer, I haven't got to really drive a CTR on the street but I brought one into the showroom. Even just moving it around the lot you can feel the ride is spine shattering, the feedback from the steering between the suspension and tire combo seems like it would be very fun.

It would absolutely get tiresome after a while of daily driving though

>short for the expression "double dime". meaning $20 (usually of drugs) When referring to car rims, dub simply implies a minimum radius of 20"

Vain boyracer shit
>because racekar bruh
>big rims, skinny tires
>front engine, rear wheel drive
>or ff for people that can't drive
>shifter flops around in every direction
>Tinny vroom noises

I don't understand the appeal. It's certainly not to look like a race car, which is more like
>tiny rims, fat slicks
>rear-mid engined rear wheel drive
>or rear engine rear wheel drive for people that can REALLY drive
>paddle shifters
>unholy roaring noises

You're right. The constantly harsh feedback would become irritating after the novelty wore off.

The only point of such a combination of rim and tyre would be to fit massive breaks.

But the picture clearly shows there is still a shitton of room. Also, less tyre flex can be better for handling, depending on road surface.

But for street cars, to have decent handling you need about 8-10 cm of sidewall. Especially if you might encounter unpaved surfaces.

305/30 -> 102 mm sidewalls.

245/30 -> 73,5 mm sidewalls

But you can actually go even further down to 165/35 r18, meaning 57,75 mm sidewalls for that horseless carriage look.

ups, guess is even worse. But since the fastest car in the world uses 34 inch pure alloy wheels, i guess that's the future.

>run over squirrel
>car totaled

It doesn’t

>What the fuck is this?
Form over function.
But it's clear it's not meant to be driven on bad roads. Japan's city streets are generally well-maintained. Lots of USA cities have budget problems and so their streets have potholes or large unfilled depressions where the pavement has smoothly deflected downwards to fill the slight sinkhole that developed under the pavement.

If you're willing to get new wheel bearings or risk stress fractures of your rims on potholes and dips, then go for it.

Apparently it rides nicely, better than the STI or Focus RS. They didn't overstiffen the suspension because rase kar broooo

Note how the only two cars not destroyed by the speed bumps at speed has decent tire sidewall + decent ride height/suspension travel. Low ride height in particular is a killer.

youtube.com/watch?v=D1m4LNRE_Oc

>not just putting 29 inch racing bike tires on your civic

I did something like this once
I got ahold of two donut spares of the same size, so I put those on my rear tires and kept the full size tires on the front.
It's a pretty fun way to get hektic with a ff, and get funny looks from people

There are track driving school that do something similar by covering the rubber with plastic:

youtube.com/watch?v=FdPbpQWLFfM

youtube.com/watch?v=Ee0-Tj5Pa-o

You could lower rear tire pressure, but your method is probably better. also

>inertial drift

>this destroys your spine
just skip the air and just use rubber coated steel.

mate just grab a couple trays from maccas and chuck em under the rear wheels with the handbrake on

Maybe on car parks, but they get destroyed within minutes let alone at speed. Metal trays from ovens destroy the tires instead.

jesus. I can feel my 195-45-15s lose grip on rougher corners because they have no ability to absorb the roughness. that must be fucking wretched.

My Civic has 13s lmao

How times have changed

>tfw 13s and 14s were the norm for shitboxes and 15s were for sports cars.

>If you're willing to get new wheel bearings or risk stress fractures of your rims on potholes and dips, then go for it.

Not to mention popping tires.

More sidewall, more function

Thicc tires make everything look cooler

Too much rim make the ride too hard

watch how the 2cv tires lift off the ridged road

youtube.com/watch?v=43AgBuh9ot8&app=desktop

And they have a bigger sidewall for a lower unsprung to sprung mass.

>560 tw
>great

Until you realize how expensive they are
t. 5th gen 1LE owner that has gone through 4 sets in 4 years

I love how the 2CV leans in corners without showing any signs of tipping over. I also love how old Citroens handle so well, despite having really narrow tires.

youtube.com/watch?v=6cRhfPOBhpc

Well the point of the thin tires was to reduce unsprung weight, since maximum grip was then less important than maintaining grip on rough roads (and wider tires did not give that much more grip in the first place).