QTDDTOT : Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Threads

What's a good car if I am kinda tall and very fat?

Can someone talk me out of buying a single owner e90 325xi with 112k miles? I'm decent at light/moderate wrenching and competent enough to read how-tos and forums for most problems but this might be biting off more than I can chew/afford to chew.

>I think
First make sure you actually have two.

If you do, then change the one with the O2 sensor that says the cat is fucked.

Is there a decent dashcam that could be dual purposed as a cycle helmet cam? Thought I would try for more answers

Do the benefits of a roller cam over a flat tappet outweigh the costs? Rebuilding the 350 in my half ton and wondering if I should go with a roller cam. Pretty sure it's a roller block (94), it just didn't come with one for whatever reason.

Forgot pic lol.

How does one go about understanding the relationship and interactions between different parts of the engine system?

for example, if I wanted to swap an Accord J35 intake manifold for an Acura J37 one, what parts of the engine (whether further up or down the system) will be affected by this modification that I should pay attention to and work on next?

youtu.be/8VjFZMKvEwY

Can I use a head unit from a newer car of the same brand? I want to get a head unit that has aux input and maybe bluetooth. So if I were to pull a unit from say a 2010 Corolla or something, could I put it in my 2004 Corolla?

Also, they have an episode coming out on stamped vs roller rockers using the same cam.

Spoiler: Avoid cheap roller-tiped rockers, and full rollers do very-slightly better at high rpms, but the ratio by far makes the biggest difference.

V6 Supercharged motor
21 lbs of boost
3.0 Liter
Meth Injected

Safe to run a 75 shot of nitrous?

Yes, done it before for a couple of weeks when the fork broke on the 1-2 shift.

If you have two, it should specify which bank it is. Cheap OBD readers sometimes don't specify, but the code will tell you which one. Also, make sure you actually have two. Also consider it may be a worn out 02 sensor.

For the vast majority of vehicles, the oil light comes on after there isn't enough oil for the pump to build pressure (if you're that low). Usually at that point, you need to stop immediately to prevent damage. If you didn't run it for long with the light on and it's not doing anything odd, it's probably fine. Literally your only options are to run it as-is, or do a full rebuild. If you have an oil pressure gauge and it didn't dip down near zero, you're fine.

Google is your friend. Usually electrical changes significantly after a generation (or even after a few years) to the point you can't. In your case, I'd say a snowballs chance in hell. Besides, aftermarket units are cheaper; I doubt you'd have to spend more than $100 to get a head unit with aux and bluetooth.

Depends too much on engine/drivetrain details. Conservative answer would be no.

Jaguar F Type S AWD
Crank Pulley, SC Pulley, Exhaust, Intake, Tune, Meth.

I know a guy who has done it on a R, which is the V8 version, so I figured a wet shot would be fine for me as well seeing how we share pretty much everything other than the Supercharger and the actual engine block itself.

Boy, I just don't know enough about Jag engines to tell you; never worked on one.

My three biggest concerns would be a cast crank (I don't know what they used), running too lean/ improper tune, and if the drivetrain could handle it. 75 is not a big shot, so my initial instinct would be yes, but I would verify elsewhere.

got a CEL on a 2007 accord. was sitting in the car with it running and when i went to move i noticed it. restarted and it went away and the engine behaves normally (vtec still kicks in yo)

should i just pretend it never happened?

Drivetrain is the same between the 6 and 8, so that would not be a issue.

Not sure on the crank and the tune and fuel will be configured properly and thats why were going with a wet shot.

2/3 covered, I'm doing it!

Thanks!

>should i just pretend it never happened?

basically. unless its persistent it was probably just a fluke.

thats reassuring. ill deal with it if it comes back but ill just assume that something just went a bit haywire after idling for 3/4 of an hour

>~800$ difference for ~20hp and ~6 ft/lbs of torque

obviously this doesn't cover all engines, but that isn't much of a difference. guess I'm sticking with the flat tappet. 800$ better spent elsewhere.

I just figured if I got an oem unit it would be simplistic enough for me. I'm one of those memers that can't find a head unit they like because they're all too ricey

My second gear is slightly crunchy sometimes when shifting. No noise, just a feeling.

Fluid levels are fine, car has 84k miles (2004 zhp).

Concern? Or am I just being too sensitive

I let my car sit unoperated in my driveway for 2 months. Being a complete vehicle noob, can anyone tell me if the gas has by now gone bad and I shouldn't operate my vehicle?

Honda Civic 2011 for the record.

Public transportation.

>can anyone tell me if the gas has by now gone bad and I shouldn't operate my vehicle?
>
>Honda Civic 2011 for the record.

my uncles old 79 f150 started and ran fine(with some persuasion) after sitting all last winter. outside.

you're fine.

so lets assume I'm trying to pull ~300-350 horse out of an sbc. are forged internals needed, or can I get away with regular cast crank/hypereutectic pistons? I'm not building a dragster, its just going in a truck used for truck things and the occasional tire fire. all google's giving me is the differences between cast and forged internals(which I already know), but not much in the way of what can handle what.

youtu.be/akrwPuMPIRM

So all cars torque steer unless the engine is dead center in the bay and you need to counter that when launching your car?

RWD cars don't torque steer. That only applies to FWD cars that have too much power or don't have active suspension to compensate for it. .

The take away is better valve control at high rpms. For a daily driver, it's simply not worth it on a mild build. You can just get a more gnarly cam that will easily make up the difference.

All cars torque steer regardless of where the engine is. On a hard enough launch you do have to account for this yes.

A cast crank will be fine at those horsepower ranges, as long as you're not turning 7,000 rpm and burning tires all the time. Should be fine.

Strength and balance start to play a factor pretty soon after. If you want to turn over 6,000 for a while or want to approach 400 hp, I would invest in at least a cast steel crank.

My trucks OBD2 does not report any error codes despite disconnecting sensors and stuff. No check engine light, no codes on my torque app. Nothing.

Anyone know whats wrong?
Its a 1999 dodge ram 1500 5.2l.

I will repay you with private never before seen nudes i buy from girls.

well, I'll probably replace the pistons, but was curious if I could re-use the crank that's already in the block. pistons need to come out anyway because lolburntrings, which is why I got the truck so cheap. but yeah, just wanted to up the HP because even running perfect TBI 350s put out jack shit for power.

assuming your dodge is anything like my XJ it wont actually notice somethings wrong at all depending on whats fucked up. had an o2 sensor shit the bed and start throwing wild ass readings causing the ecu to lean the motor waaaay the fuck out once it went into closed loop fueling. also had a throttle position sensor shit out. jeeps jumping around like the fuckin house of pain, lolnocode.

whats actually wrong with the truck?

Oh yeah, with a TBI setup and stock vortec heads you'd be hard pressed to get much more than 300 hp out it. Emphasize low-end torque on that build, remember to pick a cam that fits with TBI (or expect reflashing the computer or REALLY consider switching to a new intake and 4 barrel), and I would not hesitate to run a stock cast iron crank.

Not surprising depending on what you're doing. Those Mopar fuel injection systems are about as simple as it gets. If its in open loop mode it's just going to reference a fuel map on the computer regardless of sensor info until the engine is fully warm. Try warming the engine up to warm operating temp, and then disconnect either the throttle position or the MAP/MAF sensor and drive it around or give it a couple of mid RPM pulls in the driveway. If that doesn't throw a CEL, then verify your bulb isn't burnt out or disconnected (as dumb as it sounds).

Lots of shit is wrong with it, or was...

When i first got the truck from the guy on craigslist the truck was halfway dead. Had to replace a Throttle position sensor, fixed the slow acceleration.
Flushed the transmission oil with new oil, the old oil was black, this fixed the slow engage jerk when accelerating from a stop.
Fixed the vacuum leak because of some plastic strip some idiot used instead of buying the proper gasket for the air filter.

The problem is the ECU NEVER reported a single code during those fixes or before.

Now the transmission is making a whining noise under the pan which i think are the pressure solenoids. Still no codes from the ECU.

I get the feeling the previous owner disconnected some shit just to sell the truck.
I should know never to buy from criagslist ever again.

Was gonna go the new intake route. I figure a performer rpm + Holley 670 tbi with a decent set of aftermarket heads, cam, and a tune should do me good. Was just worried about tossing a rod through the block. Or grenading the weak ass tranny

>Now the transmission is making a whining noise under the pan which i think are the pressure solenoids. Still no codes from the ECU.

This is specifically whats happening.

youtube.com/watch?v=j_pAx4Z1n_8

I've rebuilt a couple of automatic transmissions and can tell you the solenoids don't make a sound remotely close to that. They sound just like a starter solenoid; either a singular loud clack or when they have electrical problems they can sound like a ratchet. Like the guy said in the video, his whining noise sounds just like a power steering pump which is a hydraulic pump; the transmission has a variation of this inside it (only higher volume, lower pressure). I'm betting your problem lies there, or a bearing on it's way out. If it takes some RPMs and it bang shifts from a dead stop to get going (like the video), I'm betting the pump is dead and it needs some RPM to build up enough pressure to engage the clutches (tl;dr, it's fucked).

I don't believe the ECU controlled the transmission on that year (not 100%, but I know a '99 Durango with a 4.7 had a separate module); dodge didn't incorporate that until later. Likely, you have a separate computer (usually named a TCM, TCU or PCM) controlling the transmission which probably won't throw a CEL. Like I said, not sure on that but keep it mind as to why you're not getting a CEL for transmission issues.

Lastly, a lot of ECM's erase the codes (or the program erases the codes) as soon as you connect it and/or remove it because it was in "diagnostic mode" to read the data. Not sure if that applies to the Torque App or your specific ECM.

tl;dr I think your transmission is fucked and a CEL is irrelevant to your issue.

If you stay too long without driving a car its battery dies, right? I have an old car I don't have much use for, but want to keep just in case. I take it some sundays out for a little ride so that it keeps in running condition. I understand this is good not only for the battery, but also the tires and what not.

Question: if I started it and just kept it running at idle, would the battery also charge up? How can I know how long should I keep it like that? When I go for a ride it's usually around 30 minutes. Should it be more if its idle?

Not sure I made sense. I just want the battery not to die. Would it work for me to start it in the garage and keep it like that for half and hour or so every now and then? Or do I need to drive it because more revs = more battery charge?

If you're just worried about the battery just get a maintainer/charger for it. They sell em at Walmart relatively cheap.

idling for long periods is not good for the engine.

This.

Let me elaborate on what a solenoid does in a transmission a bit in hopes that I educate Veeky Forums.

A traditional, old-school transmission works on a series of valve bodies that regulate pressure to the clutch packs. Usually, there is a governor that closes/opens at specific speeds and is adjusted via either vacuum signal or a cable connection from the engine to adjust shift firmness based on vehicle speed and engine load. All these do is control the hydraulic pressure between clutches to engage a specific gear given the conditions.

At the invention of the electronically controlled transmission, it was determined that it would be better to get rid of the governor and complex hydraulic pressure control in favor of a series of electronic solenoids that would open/close to control the fluid flow to determine a gear using information from a series of sensors that could be used from the fuel injection computer or stand-alone. Depending on the setup, a mechanical/vacuum connection is sometimes retained to govern hydraulic pressure to control shift firmness.

A failing or stuck solenoid would show symptoms of stuck in a specific gear or failure to shift in or out of a gear, losing a gear, delayed or very soft shifts (including a shift that feels like falling into neutral) or similar. Symptoms usually do not include a harsh, firm shift or suddenly engaging with more engine RPMs.

How bad is it to just replace the brake pads and not get the rotors resurfaced if they are scored (~1-2mm) but not warped?

I have a car that's pretty old, has no knock sensors etc and has been run on 93 all it's life despite the handbook saying it can run on 87. Could I just run it on 89? 93 for my area has become really expensive and I'm wondering if using a higher grade in an engine that never needed it but has always used it, would affect anything.

Stupid question I know but it's my first car and don't know much.

Hi guys, looking at a 1989 oldsmobile cutlass wagon and hoping to get some input on it. It looks to be well taken care of and in generally good condition at 106k miles, but I really don't know much about these older cutlasses so any specific knowledge on it would be much appreciated.
Here's the CL link if you want a closer look, thanks. longisland.craigslist.org/cto/d/1989-olds-cutlass-cruiser/6420272982.html

>abs light
>steering gets hard when braking
?

Your anti-lock brakes have failed.

I've been driving for a year now and still feel really uncomfortable about it, I don't like driving unless it's late at night and the roads are empty. People scare me they drive so stupid constantly, I've never been honked at and always go the speed limit or 5 over if there's a line behind me. What can I do bros. I feel anxious even using a turning lane.

This is kinda a noob question, but my drivers side seat has a tear exposing the metal frame. When I go to get my vehicle registered, that tear will disqualify my vehicle. If it was on the passenger's side, though, it wouldn't be a problem as long as it's covered by a seat cover.

So...is there anything to stop me physically swapping the two seats? Or are the drivers side and passenger's side seats not interchangeable?

Why would that matter? Even if it were true, what material is it? Ever heard of a needle and thread? Junkyard? A $10 seat cover from walmart you dumb bastard?

What's the best way I can fix this scrape, I mean doing everything but the paint

I used to be like this, I don't think there is anything you can do about it besides drive as much as possible and wait for it to become less scary. You need to work it out of your system basically

Should I straight pipe my P71 exhaust?

My exhaust system looks like pic related in regards to rust and its only a matter of time before the cats inevitably fail. I was thinking about cutting out the cats and just straight piping it as opposed to getting a whole new exhaust

Any suggestions? This is my first shitbox so I'm really new here

Did you meant abs? The light doesn't come up every time and the breaks works good all the time. And what's with the steering then?

Your brakes are locking up, that's what user is saying. It doesn't meant they don't work, just that they won't stop you from locking up under heavy braking

>locking up
Is that what the heavy steering means? Sorry for my dumbness, this isn't my 1st language.

Trying to say that your car is sliding, or nearly sliding. Antilocking brakes stop the car from sliding when you slam on the pedal. If you "lock them up" the car is sliding and steering is difficult

As promised, never before seen by other eyes except mine.

>Antilocking brakes
Why don't you call it abs? That's what confused me. I got it now. Just didn't understood how is it connected with steering. It isn't like I'm slamming on the brakes.

What's a good cheap lightweight rwd?

Miata
Is
Always
The
Answer

Something with more power?

MX-5 with more power.

>Mk4 supra
>Brz/frs/gt86 if you want a newer car
>Porsche 944 if you don't mind timing belt memes
>Honda s2000 is probably the best choice if it's still within your budget
>Toyota mr2 if you don't value your life very much

What's your budget for ''cheap''?

Big ass truck my guy

A few more
>350z
>300zx
>e36
>e46
>e30(prices are going up)
>Fox body mustang(pic related)

PT

Around 7-8k

All of these excluding the frs and s2000 should fit in that budget

As I said
>MX-5 with more power
Or save some more for the S2000.

Is the mr2 that bad or it's just a meme?

I never drove one, but I had one friend total 2 aw11s so I think it's for real

Marauder? and foxbody, my nigga you got my dream fleet but holy fuck paint that thing

I'm trying to restore function to my headlamps on a 1st gen tacoma, 1995 4wd 2.7l to be exact.

The combo stalk will allow me to pull it in to do a high beam flash, but when pressed out, kills the lights. So, if I'm driving at night with the normal low beams on and needed to switch to high for whatever reason, the high switch just kills the lights. But the high beam flash works. The fuck?

I'm pretty certain the relay and fuses are good, the bulbs can't be an issue if they can handle high beams on flash, that just leaves the switches, right? I tracked it down to PN 84112-09090, I *think*. I'd hate to buy the 120$ switch set, take all the pain to put it on, and have it still not function. Has anyone had a problem like this?

it's a wagon, buy it right now
youtube.com/watch?v=ZampeBvhDrU
burrito supreme
and a chicken supreme
in a cutlass supreme

as long as they are in spec in regards to thickness it should be fine
however it would be prudent to get some 200+ grit sandpaper and deglaze the rotor brake surfaces
>good time to paint the hat as well

>air
>fuel
>spark
you just added the capacity for more air with the intake upgrade
(probably, idk shit about hondas)
so more air plus more fuel equals more power
upgrading the fuel system (bigger injectors, higher pressure pump and hoses)
would be a logical next step
afterwards upgrading the ignition coils/wires/plugs and getting an ECU tune (which controls a/f mix and ignition timing) would be a good idea
this is a dumbed down explanation but is basically the formula for how to make a car go at all which in turn is also how to make a car fast

Anti-lock Brake System = ABS

I know what ABS is! Just don't get why would you use so many words instead.
How about the power steering and brake fluids - are there some changing intervals like for engine oil? Same question for tranny oil.

thanks, appreciate it!

I have a nail on the outside shoulder part of my tire, took it to NTB and they said it couldn’t be fixed. Is this true? I asked about a brake inspection since my brake light turns on and off frequently for whatever reason, and they took a quick look at the rotors and they said that I might have a sticky caliper since there was a lip on the right front rotor but no lip on the other side. How serious is a sticky caliper? They wanted to go the whole 9 yards and replace everything, and though that may be the right way to go, I can do it myself, but want to know for sure what it is.

As far as the nail in the tire goes, the tire is on the rear and I think I lose like 10 PSI every two weeks.

My car won't start

put your penor in the fuel hole

and possibly some fuel as well

I looked
It's full
My penor hurts

>tire shoulder
tough spot to patch, they may be right
ask another shop
>replacing a rotor to fix a brake light
wut
i'd lube the slide pins first, literally less than $10 for a jar of silicon lube that will last at least 10 brake jobs
they trying to pull the wool over your eyes user

going to get my first car
I want something that if i have a light foot gets decent mpg but is still fun and a good drive.
preferably around 1.5k max
was thinking mr2 or fiero. am I being too cheap?

In short, absolutely.

what car is this?

They are saying that its a caliper problem that is making a lip on the rotor, but they do want to replace the rotor as well. I’ll try to lube the pins and see if that fixes it.

alright, how much should i set aside for a car then?
whats the least I should pay for a fiero or mr2