Spend weekend fixing shitbox

>tfw too cold to work

keep up the good fight, friend
what are the problems?

When will you people learn that most shitboxes typically need a stem to stern gutting of most moving parts and most failures will require removing parts to get at the failure only to find more broken shit on the way.

You need to:
>diagnose failure
>plan for it to be down for a couple days
>tear it apart
>create complete list of all needed parts
>order parts
>replace everything in one shot
>nailed the job, good work
>on to the next, you'll have a properly renovated shitbox in no time

Do NOT:
>diagnose failure
>order part
>take it all apart and have to get work in 10 hours
>find more broken shit
>replace only part you have time for
>put all the other broken shit back
>hate yourself
>hate life
>hate car
>cry yourself to sleep
>order other parts
>do it all over again for a full repair
>feel apathetic and unsatisfied about everything

Ask me how I know.

>fixing shitbox
>pain in the ass job
>know exactly what parts will break and need to replace while doing said job
>maintain ratio of fixed vs broken on shitbox
angry outbursts turn to defeated sighs. I promise OP

>Ask me how I know.
ahhhhhhh im not the only one

I've been doing this for over a decade, breh. Started when I was 14. I've been a professional master tech for several years now. I use the lifts at work and have $20k in tools, but I also have a broken decrepid back now so I guess the difficulty level is the same. I just get it done faster now and I actually know how to diagnose problems.

I'm still that depressed neurotic teenager screaming on the inside, I just have the experience and expertise to work through it.

This guy knows what I'm talking about

>feel cold in footwell
>go to remove glovebox to access jam door
>i already blocked off the jam door
>use dollar store draft seal on door sills
its an improvement

Have you tried not being poor?

>bought a euro ferd diesel
>just regular maintenance
>15yo, never broke down, 200k km on the clock
Is it true that Ford sells its best shit in europ while the turds are all in the us?

I feel
>spend the last 3 of my off days working on my Durango trying to get the heat on
>took forever to get the dash out
>couldn't even get the HVAC box out so I just broke a hole in the top of it and slid the new heater core in
>made a new sheetmetal lid for it and put everything back together
>heat still doesn't work, can now works for some reason, and the speedometer doesn't work
>honestly considering just selling it and buying a EG hatch for a daily now

>Upper radiator hose leaking
>Exhaust leak, probably manifold and I may need to give someone the succ to borrow a welder
>Center support bushing fucked
>Oil cooler line swollen because someone in the past used heater hose
>Rear main seal leaking
>Pinion seal leaking
>Rust
>Outer tie rod boots both torn
>Rust
>Power steering rack leaking
>Crank sensor (pic related) keeps getting covered in gunk, making the tach read weird
Did I mention rust?

>dead battery
>can't afford to buy it
>rents due
Time to sell kek

Sell your body?

Fucking thank you

but thats only 124,000 miles.

a few of those should be easy, but as we all know something else always comes up.

>new heater hose
>if not a new manifold gasket, just snag a new junkyard manifold
>run fresh oil cooler lines
>new rear main seal. but i dont know how hard that is in a volvo
>new tie rod boots. might as well get new tie rods too.
>hopefully just needs a new high pressure line?
>possibly from the rear main seal leak

good luck volvo guy

>new radiator hose**

>>bust a wheel and tire
>bust

WTF does that mean? You got a flat? Install spare, no problem.

Words of fucking wisdom.

Bent a rim and put a hole in the sidewall. Can't ride on the spare forever.

Yeah hoses are easy, but it's a turbo manifold and I'd be better off looking for the holy grail than tryna find a turbo redblock to cop a manifold from (at least where I am). Rear main seal requires pulling engine and tranny together and splitting them. The rack is leaking where the inner screws in, you can still get rebuild kits luckily enough. The center bushing, tie rods, and even rust are easy, those are up next. I'm probably going to drive this mf until it explodes and get something else. I want a 89-99 Celica bad, but I know old Volvo's inside and out so I might be better off just getting a nicer 240 or 740/940

what motor is it?

I currently drive a ford explorer 2000 sport and the problems are non stop. Trans blew out replaced it, heater core replaced,radiator, trans acting up again, and tires make weird noise now... im debating if i should junk it and just buy a new car in general...

>oil pan leak
>busted CV boot on both fronts
>rear diff has fluid of unknown amount or age
>trans fluid is of unknown age
>pops out of 4th often
>gear linkage is shot
>engine is full of "rat nests" made of wire

Best if all:
>snow everywhere and no garage space to work on it

B230 but the turbo model

damn, i only found a couple headers..
ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-B230-B23-2-3L-SOHC-T3-T4-FLANGE-STAINLESS-TURBO-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-GASKET-/150943400243

amazon.com/Volvo-Turbo-Conversion-Exhaust-Manifold/dp/B01IROE1VO

guy who took the OP pic, I actually found the other pic I took

>be yesterday
>replacing leaking expansion tank in rx8
>go to remove the hose connecting it to the radiator
>plastic nipple snaps off the radiator because of fucking course it did
>order decent aluminum radiator because fuck mazdas plastic garbage
>doesn't get here until the 28th because of the holidays

>tfw no car for a week

time to meme

well me and my boys were working on a 351w today. we finally got the dizzy unstuck. when we droppped the oil pan we found a shit ton of rust flakes.... ordering a new oil pump/pickup. it really was nasty