/qtddtot/

you did nothing wrong, your dad's a cunt.

mighty boy

>1UZFE
my dick can only get so hard user. I wish I was the owner

Plate says 1UZ so I'm assuming it has a DOHC V8 in it.

Thanks guys. That's pretty cool.

How difficult is it to replace spark plugs? Specifically on a '04 Saturn Ion.

easy as shit.

I'm moving to my first job out of college and need a real car that isn't my death trap of a z32 to commute and deal with moving things and snow

Things I need
>AWD hatch/sedan/station wagon or small truck
>Comfortable for distance
>Has decent interior storage space
>Preferably comes in a 5 or 6 speed manual that isn't a WRX (insurance is $2500 a year on the fucking things)
>Under $15k with under 100k on the odometer

I'm looking to put a shit load of miles on it going north to ski and camp, I don't need towing capacity or serious off-road capability

Should I get a F32 435i or a similar year C/E350?

Got one of these with the 2.2L ecotec engine. Are there any major issues with this car I should worry about? If the serpentine belt hasnt been changed in a while, should I change it? I keep up with the recommended maintenance, but there is nothing in there about the belts.

Pretty easy. Just be careful taking them out, if they break and shit lands in the cylinder you're fucked.

Your dad sounds like some boomer who still shops in person and places a lot of faith in service. If the place can't be arsed to list their prices online, then they don't deserve your business.

Your dad is a moron. My dad taught me to do it the way you were doing it tbqh.

I've got a spot of rust on my tailgate that came back after sanding down and repainting.

I'm going to sand it/respray again, are there any household chemicals or anything I can rub the metal down with before I prime it to prevent it oxidising under the paint again?

Spray from rust neutralizer on it first and reclean the area before using a rust inhibiting primer. It should stay dead after that

Is there any way to improve your brakes that does NOT involve getting at least 17" wheels? I want better brakes but roads where I live are so bad having wheels bigger than 16" makes driving unbearable and kills you back.

You don't need fuckhuge callipers and discs for road use.

The standard sized discs with a more aggressive compound on the pads will give you a bit more "bite", vented/drilled discs will help with heat dispersion so you won't feel the brakes fade as quickly.

Is there any issues with the 2ZZ engine that I should be aware of? New to cars and really liking the corolla sportivo, Wikipedia says don't oil starve it at all otherwise it'll neck itself but any other known issues that could pop up? I'll be buying second hand so any model specific advice for wear and tear would also be appreciated, hopefully I'll land myself one as a DD within the next couple months

rangers are garbage go for a tacoma if you can afford one

What's Veeky Forums opinion on used cars that have been previously written off by the insurers and put back on the road safely. Want to pick up a 2014 or newer fiesta st, it would be from a trade dealer with 1 year warranty. Has anyone got any experience with picking up a cat c, d or s of these in the UK?

cat C & D are usually so because it's something like body work or paint that would be too expensive to fix via the manufacturer/dealer, but doesn't affect performance/structural integrity etc, and can probably be fixed cheaper if you're willing to put your own time into it. i'm sure if my car were new it'd be a C or D write-off because every panel has a scrape or dent in it, but mechanically it's in perfect working order and has been for the 4 years i've owned it.

i wouldn't touch S however, that means "structural defect has been repaired" iirc, so it could be ok, or the fixed part could break again within a year and potentially kill you if you're at motorway speeds, it's not worth the risk of your own safety.

I had my radiator replaced 2 weeks ago as the old one had a huge crack along the top and was shitting coolant all over the engine bay covers, unfortunately even after cleaning all the coolant up that i could see, i still get that awful boiled coolant smell.. if you've ever smelled it you know what i mean, kinda like hot engine with fresh camel piss mixed in.

what can i do to get rid of the smell short of steam cleaning the entire engine bay?

Ive been bleeding my brakes forever and the pedal still goes to the floor. Im thinking the masyer cylinder is bad. Any way to check for internal leaks?

Take it to a self service car wash, and spray it down, be sure to cover any electrical bits with plastic, and stand at a reasonable distance.

The smell will eventually start to go away i replaced my radiator 2 months ago and i didnt clamp it down right and the hose squirted all over the engine bay. Youll just have to live with it for a bit

The L series is the forgotten bastard child of the Saturn lineup imo, but I don't know of anything bad outright about the 4cyl ecotec. Follow mfg maintenance schedules, just check the belt for cracks and if it seems good, doesn't squeal, and the car is under the belt change interval, then don't worry about it.

Was it working properly before bleeding?
Are you sure the guy pumping the pedal is not letting the pedal go up before you closed the bleeding nipple?
Are you sure there is enough oil in the tank during all phases of the bleeding process and that you never, at any point, let the tank run dry and allowed the pump to suck air?
Have you tried bleeding with positive pressure from the tank (basically pushing air into the tank and forcing the oil out of the calipers with air pressure alone)?

I have a 1999 Honda Accord, and I had to replace every single door actuator except the front driver's side.

1 month after getting them, the rear driver's side burned out so I got that replaced for free.

4 months after replacing them, the front driver's side (the one I didn't replace) isn't working very well, and the font passenger side is barely working, if at all, and when I try to use it it makes a loud whirring noise like it's suffering.

Is my car burning them out? Or are they just defective?

Is a Gen 3 Toyota 4Runner with 300,000 miles still worth driving?

fug, ok.

Why does my car radio suddenly start working after leaving it on for like 5 minutes? It's almost as if it needs to "warm up" before i can start using it. I also noticed in hot weather it starts working right away.

Is it faulty wiring? Amp problem? I have an 86 mr2 with the original radio if that helps.

Since there isn't car audio thread currently i'm going to ask this here. I have couple of cd's that aren't exactly easy to find/cheap. I would like to play them in my car but i'm afraid the cold weather/cheap player could destroy them. Would leaving a cd in the player when it's below freezing damage the cd?

Do you not have an internet connection?
Cable is dead. torrent and dark youtube are alive n well.
Yes, but every seal will be dried out and leaking.
>spend $20 on a usb cd burner
>make copies of said cd's
>????
>graduate preschool

I have worked on cars here and there, replacing radiator, water pumps, MAS, brake lines, starters, AC compressors, and so forth.

I have always wanted to get involved a bit more with things like head gaskets and the like. With that being said I'm wanting to spend about $500 on a car, give or take. Want to work on it and maybe get it running or just something to learn on that I don't care about breaking. Here's what I'm looking at, recommendations?:

decatur.craigslist.org/cto/d/2001-nissan-maxima-gle-price/6429233580.html

decatur.craigslist.org/cto/d/broken-91-honda-prelude-si/6414201020.html

decatur.craigslist.org/cto/d/2000-sunfire-2dr/6389076381.html

decatur.craigslist.org/cto/d/2006-sunfire/6424630946.html

decatur.craigslist.org/cto/d/1993-buick-regal/6429601734.html

decatur.craigslist.org/cto/d/2002-chrysler-town-and-country/6421843944.html

I don't even care if it doesn't have a title. I mostly drive domestic US cars, but have had a few Toyotas in the past and am thinking about getting a Toyota or a Nissan in the near future. Certainly looking at a 1986 300zx or a 1987 Firebird LS1 swap. Not sure which one to go with.

I bought a car that has shitty aftermarket wheels which are not hub-centric (causing vibration at highway speeds) and I want to get a set of OEM ones. The car is a 2003 and I'd have to get remanufactured/used wheels, so where would the best place to look for them be?

auto wreckers.

probably poorly soldered circuits in the radio itself, unless you're confident in taking it out, re-soldering every shitty looking weld point you see, might be worth going aftermarket

Take it apart and put the pcb in the oven.
It sounds retarded at first, but people do it all the time to fix faulty surface mount welds on motherboards.
You just have to make sure to put in the pcb only, not any wires or plastic parts.

which engine makes the loudest exhaust explosions?

Where does Veeky Forums go for wiring diagrams? need halp with my piece of shit outback and diagrams would help with troubleshooting.

You don't.

Jet engine

A good service manual should have all the electrical diagrams

One without an exhaust

eBay, a lot of salvage yards list their stuff on there.

I am aware this is in the sticky but I was looking for some personalized advice. So as a bus rider, I want to get a cheap car, sun $5K but from my experience driving cars is hard. So is there any car that is easy to handle but also reliably cheap? I used my dad's SUV and holy shit it drives nice but its so high up I can't see sometimes and I dont feel 'in touch' with the SUV. Tried a friend's small car, its great too, drives nicely but I feel its too fast, as I cant calculate whether the speed I am going is okay to make a turn, since I generally make wide open turns in it or short and slow turns. I can never quite get it right. What's your experience with a car's handling like?

my Toyota Crown does the same thing, the radio conked out going over bumps for years but now it just clicks in the cold until it warms up. has aftermarket headunit, aftermarket digital tuner, and aftermarket speakers. my dash gets hot after a hour of driving, think the heat on some Toyotas fucks the headunit up internally or its wiring issues

80% sure I hit a cryptid with my car does this belong on /x/ or Veeky Forums.

What should I do to restore an old car, my car is 31 years old and I feel like it could use some love, suspension,vacuum lines, filters, fluids, what else? Engine has a lifter tick too.

hey O/

europoor, found this on googlemap.
whatisdat? Sensor to let the red light turn green ?

Yes. I used to install them. When the road is resurfaced, you'll no longer see the scars

Get fucked, tripfag. Buy a used bmw/Mercedes

Wow interesting, so as you used to install may i ask?
The device is first set under the road, then you melt the road on it and cut in the end the circles to make the sensors sensitive. Am i right ?

>my car does this belong on /x/ or Veeky Forums.

Is FWD really that bad if I'm not out to carve up mountain roads or hoon on the toe-gay?

My car was working beautifully until last night where it started making a grinding noise at the supermarket carpark. Queue this morning, apparently it needs a new crank shaft.

How fucked is it? They're trying to get one for tomorrow, which I'm praying they manage as otherwise I'm without a car essentially until Janurary. Which will be fun considering I've got to drive half way accross the country for Christmas on monday.

It's a suzuki Jimny if that matters.

When the road already exists, you just cut into it and lay the sensor's wire in the road. It's just a wire loop that detects metal passing over, so it doesn't matter if the road above hasn't been cut up. The scars you see are just temporary sealing until the road is resurfaced properly.

What year? If it was actually a grinding noise from the engine, it's going to be completely fucked and you'll be better off pulling a used motor from a wreck rather than rebuilding.

Half of people on the road probably couldn't even tell you if their shitbox was fwd or rwd. For a daily drive, you will barely notice imo

2005.

I've left it at the garage at the moment, apparently the crank shaft has completely broken. Honestly, I'm amazed it even got to the garage this morning (less than a five minute drive away).

Thanks for your honesty, I'm hoping it isn't an engine problem as it was my first car and I can't just throw it away.

Windshield wipers gone out.
Bosch vs. Piaa vs. Valeo vs. Rain-X
Unsure what to get atm, bosch and piaa seem the best, but piaa is the most expensive of them. Then again people who have had piaa never go back, and the bosch icons sucked on the family suv.
Then again bosch is the oem supplier for the e9x models.

thats genious, i thought it was a weight sensor (which would have been a big pain)
Thanks user!

Is it possible to swap the steering wheel and gearknob with parts from other cars? Im refering without any buttons on them (steering wheel especially).

went to a lot and found an '03 bugeye non-sti wrx base model with 116k on the odometer
>looked at the body and there was rust at the rear passenger quarter panel and front driver quarter panel about two inches wide each (northeast car what do you expect)
Took it for a test drive, the engine ran strong and showed no issues.
>got it up on a lift and saw rot on the U brace
>dealer said they would swap in new U brace and change CV boots cause they saw it could use them too
with the U brace and the CV boots done that would take care of a good majority of the rust on the frame/subframe components, but here's my real "stupid question"
would i be stupid for getting into one of these for $5495? What normally fails on '03 wrx's once they reach around that mile mark this one is at? (116k)

Call around and get some quotes, m8. The crank is right in the guts of the motor tho, so it's a big job to repair even assuming it hasn't fucked everything else around it.
I'm glad my old shitty brainlet job brought you some joy, m8.
Easy if you have an old shitbox without Airbags. Not so much 4u

Thanks, will go give a few places a ring now.

Thanks again user!

Yea, I need with the airbag aswell, but its a VW swap, I want one of those steering wheels on me Passat.

Also, I have found a nice offer for a car for me gf.
Is 2500 euros worth it for an Octavia 2 1.6 mpi? The car is listed as for being made in 2005, has electric/power windows, however it has a manual AC and shitty radio (radio can be changed tho).
Also, the car is listed as having a broken O2 Sensor, which is a 50 euro job.

I know that its not the most exciting car on the market today, but for 2.500 euros I am very tempted.
I would link the ad, but its on the Facebook Marketplace, so I dunno if it will work here.

Don't know, m8. I only drive v8s. I'd just be sure that the o2 sensor is the only thing wrong with it. Why do you think that the owner hasn't done the easy $50 repair themselves? If you can't test drive, I personally wouldn't touch it.

Well, the guy is 70 miles away from me, but since its Holiday period I might aswell just go for a drive and enjoy a coffee in another city.

Unless the body has been bent, the Octavia 2 is a really cheap to repair and maintain car. Its just that the 1.6 mpi is such a rare engine, everybody either bought the 1.4 petrol or the 1.9 tdi diesel.

>put key in door
>turn
>doesn't unlock
>press button on key
>unlocks
>put key in ignition
>turn
>car starts

how fix?

Assuming you turned it both ways, you might have a bad side on your key. try flipping the key and figuring out the side thats messed up.

Let's say I haven't ever wrenched on a car before and I want to start doing so. I'm not used to working with my hands in any way but I'm ready to get my hands dirty. Where do I begin? I'm simply overwhelmed.
I do have a haynes manual from the previous owner, should I just start reading through it? Is there any other resources I should check out?

My 4.3 97 s10 used to crank immediately upon turning the key but now it's taking roughly 6 seconds of cranking before it starts, I've replaced the fuel filter and battery/ alternator are too new to be going bad. When I took the filter off the tank side poured a lot of fuel out and the engine side didn't have much coming out at all, don't know if that's normal or not, any ideas?

Forgot to mention that it'll start right up if you're cranking it within about 10 minutes of turning it off

Was replacing my rotors when I noticed this contraption not bolted to anything. Just hangs buts only moves up n down. Should this be secured in the socket?

Is it a good idea buying a 1993 Cadillac Sedan Deville and use it as a dd? I live in Europe, btw.

At what point of "spirited driving" would I start noticing the differences, aside from things like torque steer?

Looks like a sway bar link

Oh and if it is a sway bar link then yes it should be secured to your control arm. It helps prevent your vehicle from rolling over

Check plugs, wires, sending unit, harness wiring to sending unit...then again, it is a '97...

Yup...

If you're thinking about doing "spirited" driving, just go with a rwd. People will tell you that fwd is OK for boy racers, but I personally disagree

What are some good pages to follow on Twitter?

Im trying to get a shit piece 02 Hyundai getz running. There's fuel on the plugs, the plugs are sparking and turns over fine. It currently fires through the air intake only with no ignition in the combustion chamber. Anything else I should be looking at? I'm a aussie/burger v8 person myself, so I really have no idea what I'm doing with this shitpiece.

Go buy yourself a sway bar link and penetrating oil. Coat the top nut with it for a couple days before changing it. Sway bar links are always stubborn. Not a hard repair otherwise.

Thanks senpai. I was getting some crazy brake feedback on the highways for a while now when decelerating from 60MPH. The car would vibrate all jittery-like till I came down to about 40MPH.

I had a guy set my coilovers then do my alignment. The car looks crooked now and it pulls to the right.
Better than it was before. But not really.

If he didnt undo the swaybar before he set the ride height. Could that explain why before the car had better camber range, but after it didnt?

He claimed he couldnt get the front right past -0.8 but the left went to -2.8 maximum.
The car looks "twisted" to the right ever since.

Reading it could be a good start, but it's kinda pointless if you aren't actually on the car doing what it tells you to do.

If you have never ever tried wrenching before, I suggest starting with some kind of smaller machinery that you can afford to leave dismantled for a while, like a lawnmower or a small bike.

If you want to go straight for the car, choose something easy like a standard service (oil+filter, air filter, cabin filter, fuel filter and maybe spark plugs) that doesn't take a long time and has a very low risk for fuckups. Also take a good look at your car and find basic stuff that needs to be fixed (worn wipers, blown bulbs, squeaky brakes, etc).

Read the manual or check on dedicated forums what kind of tools you need for the job before starting. If your have a reasonably popular car, then you will find plenty of YouTube videos about pretty much every job you can do on it, also make-specific forums usually have a lot of resources for DIYers.

What happened before it stopped working? Was it in an accident or was it repaired by inexperienced people?

It could be anything from a bad timing sensor to a timing belt installed wrong to a fuel tank filled with the wrong fuel. Do you have access to a code scanner to see if the ECU is complaining about something?

If you have fuel on the plugs, dry then thoroughly before attempting to start again, if they are drenched in fuel then they will have a very hard time igniting anything.

If he adjusted the car while it was sitting on a lift then there is no need to disconnect the sway bar, unless you suspect the thing is so worn and twisted that it can fuck your suspension geometry so much even with the car sitting up in the air.

Jack the car up, remove the wheels, take a ruler and measure how much thread is left under the perch (the one you turn to change ride height), it should be equal left and right.
If it's not equal, then loosen the perch all the way to the bottom so the spring is free to wiggle in place, take the ruler again and measure the uncompressed spring length. Again, they should be equal, if they are not then throw the springs away and find a good pair.
If they are good, tighten the perch back to where it was, if the first measurements were different, then choose an average value between the two and set the spring perch to that distance from the bottom of the threaded sleeve.

It might be good if you could go back to minimum camber for the moment, try to have everything as equal as possible between left and right, then you can start to modify the geometry one thing at a time and see where measurements start to go off.
If you are worried your sway bar might be acting weird, then disconnect it and leave it disconnected until you have finished fixing the suspension and doing a few tests drives, just be a bit more careful when you drive because it will be a lot floppier and a bit less responsive.

You can't really fix your alignment by yourself, but you can still measure how much thread is left on the outer tie rods (just like you did with the strut) to see if they are more or less the same.

Of course, do all this on all 4 wheels if you have coilovers all around.

I don't have clue about its history. I've been fucking around with it today and I'm 90% either the exhaust is obstructed or the timing/valves are fucked as it's putting very little out of the exhaust and firing through the air intake. As for the computer, I was working on the assumption that it wouldn't fire the starter if a cam or crank sensor was fucked. Every car I've worked on would do this.

Older cars will simply crank forever if the timing sensor is fucked, it will simply not fire.

I suggest you start tearing the timing covers apart and checking if the timing is set right, or get yourself an OBD reader and go hunting for fault codes.
Unbolt the exhaust from right before the cat if you think it's clogged and try starting it like that, it will make a mess but at least you can be sure if the exhaust is the problem