For buying a new vehicle, how much can I realistically barter down the price if I'm paying with cash in hand?

Give the money back then.

>New
You're fucked. Lightly used is your best bet (10-20k miles, 1-2 years old) and if you go shopping ON NEW YEARS DAY you have a pretty good chance of getting an excellent deal. My dad bought a 12k mile 2LT Camaro Convertible last year on New Year's Day for $24k out the door when they were going for $30k+ anywhere else for similar condition/year/mileage. This is a $35k+ car brand new, so take it into consideration.

They're literally buying me a new vehicle and being asian, I can't even refuse it or take the money as cash without offending.

*them being asian (not me)

Well, if it's not your money then fuck it. Let them make a shitty financial decision. It's not your money, who cares?

This sounds like the reverse JG Wentworth commercial

It makes a difference in what vehicle I pick, if I can barter it below their $25k gift I pay nothing out of pocket.

And I'm trying to pick a van that can do double-duty for contracting work plus hauling around muh waifu and 2 little kids, so it looks like I'm sitting at the cap to begin with.

I've already had the arguments about buying new with them til I was blue in the face, at this point I'm just trying to maximize my value.

fuck didn't realize I'd tapped enter twice, sorry for that reddit spacing anons

How much can you barter it down as part of the financing? I've only bought used in private sales and while I've gotten some smoking deals there I don't know the first thing about dealing with the rat-faced car salesman.

You have to be reasonable and play hardball

Right, but what are realistic numbers to shoot for?

Depends where you are and market conditions. As far as new from dealer goes they don't wiggle a lot on price like they used to in the old days. As stated above financing makes them the most $$$, a guy with cash is actually a bigger headache than you think because of possible reporting requirements.

That's good info, thanks user.
>As far as new from dealer goes they don't wiggle a lot on price like they used to in the old days.
Why is this, out of curiosity?

A smart dealership takes the cash and turns it into a certified Bank check to bypass the reporting issue

Everyone in this thread who is throwing out an arbitrary % of money that you can save if you do x or y is retarded.

Vehicle purchasing is all about cold hard numbers.How much is msrp? How much did the vehicle cost the dealer? What's their processing fee? Tax rate of your state? Added options? Trim?

Unless you have the answers to these questions, you're going in blind and you are up to the mercy of the dealer.

I've bought/sold/traded/flipped 26 cars in my life. You have to realize the facts before going in on a vehicle.

Search surrounding dealers and how much they're offering. Look out for their sales events. Figure out if there are more popular colors/configurations than others.

You don't just want into a dealer and say "I got cash! I'm paying this number!" Because they're either going to say no, get you somewhere else, or gladly agree because you could of gotten a better deal if you had done your research.

>turns it into a certified Bank check

Somebody still has to fill out the IRS anti money laundering forms.

I don't think Western Union has to

Getting an example of what/how you can score when you have those numbers would be much more helpful.

I've seen Hindus do this, they take the window sticker off of base trim car and put it on a top trim model. Get the paperwork done by the youngest, most eager looking sales rep, then drive it out of state.

500 less than dealer cost. That's about it. Paying cash isn't sine kind ok magical spell that makes dealers forget how much thier cars cost. Its no benefit to them. The paperwork process isn't that much harder because of a loan. Cash is just slightly quicker than getting paid by the funding bank of the loan. It really makes no difference to them. Sorry it isn't 1979 any more.

Ask the dealer to show you the cars invoice. Have him show you the dealer cost. It should be be less than MSRP. How much less depends. On a shit box 1-3k less depending in brand and options. On a nice car more. Offer him 500 less than that. 500 us about the usual amount of the holdbacks which is secret money that they get for selling the car. Its all rather boring and technical.

All you need to know is that a dealer who is ready to make a year end deal will del the car 500 under because he can break even on the front end with the holdback. If you thought you thought you could get a new car half off with cash, sorry. It doesnt work like that any more. The average profit to the dealer on a new car is about 900dollars. That's if they sell it a few hundred over dealer cost.

500 under cost. That's your best deal. If they dont take it leave and go to the next store u til you did one who will play ball.

Okay... a few tips that will help you save money:
>don't care about exterior/interior color
>if a new generation or facelift came out, it's the perfect time to buy the previous model.
>if you're going for used, always get top trim and options. New they were expensive upgrade, used they're the difference of a few hundred dollars.
>If you're going to a hole in the wall dealer, realize that they haven't done any repairs to the vehicle other than bare minimum to pass a safety/emissions test. These guys are the worst. Do any dirty trick you can. My favorite is to unplug an airbag and let the light go on. They'll want to get rid of it asap, tell them you have a buddy who can fix it.
>never let them talk you into warranty plans or in-house financing. Bring your own products with a defined number you're working with. They'll play with "what can you afford a month?" And have a ridiculous vehicle cost with 84 month financing at 9%. Yeah, you saved $50/month, but you're totally screwed in the long run.
>bring an actual pad of paper and pen. Research different cars in the area, the trims, options, etc, and have their prices on that paper. Compare their cars to other vehicles at any chance you get.
>the dealer is not your friend. He is a middleman that is barely necessary in this era of online shopping and next day shipping with one-click buying. They are just there to walk you through paperwork and hand you keys. Be friendly, but realize that he has made the same smile and corny joke to everyone else. In 15 days, you'll forget his name.
>leave at the end of the day. Sit on it. Sleep on it. Talk back and forth through phone calls, emails, anything. Do not purchase the vehicle the first day you see it. Come up with some excuse of "I have a few vehicles to Inspect". They will always tell you "these savings are only good until Tuesday!". Bullshit. You want my money, I'll but it on Friday if I want.

Best tool is knowledge tho. Do your research.

Thanks for the welfare system faggot.

Paying in cash only saves you from paying the finance charges. So you buy $25,000 car get zero down payment tax, license,& registration is usually around 10% so now total cost out the door is $27,500 then you factor interest on auto loan say 5% if you that lucky of that adds another $1300. Now you paying total nearly $29K for that car when all said and done. Then the second you drive off the lot you are upside down $4k cause that finance charge has nothing to do with the cars actual value.

I want to get a 2015 golf TDI used from a dealer. Saw one listed for 18k with about 22k miles. How much could I reasonably get off that?

No way to know but i would go on day before new years eve and hit them with lowball figure dont budge for next 3 offers then walk. Wait for next day phone call will b best offer they got and then walk in and ask for another 1,000 off they will probably go for it since last day of month and year sales

You can try going to several dealers and make them try to give you a better deal. It will take a while tho.

As a Salesman myself, the best advice I can give:

First of all, research current KBB value of the vehicle you want. Find out the round about market value, include all options to dial it in. You can do this from your phone at the dealership if necessary. Haggle for the Lowest value, if not slightly lower. Figure out the MOST you're willing to pay/ want to pay. If the Salesman wont budge or come into the territory you want, then literally WALK off the lot. Also while haggling at some point, the Salesman is going to ask how you're going to pay, cash or credit. Say cash & flash him the stack quickly & briefly. Watch the sight of money change his whole attitude. If he does not give you the price you want, walk. He will not likely let you off the lot with that money. If he DOES let you walk, if he calls you back, let him know the price just dropped too. He HAD his chance then at that price, now you want an even better deal. He will be infuriated. Trust me bro, I just gave you all the secrets LOL

This is terrible advice. You’ll not only take the initial hit, you won’t make it back up by immediately paying it off. 6 months minimum to pay it off if you want your credit score back.

>you'll feel sort of guilty for even trying.
You assume people have morals and sociopaths don't exist.

Oy vey you drive a hard bargin

15~20%

I am from europe and people would look at you like you are crazy to go in to legitimate car sale business and try to barter on the price.

The price is set and you can look it up before you get there.

reading shit like this, america seems not like a first world nation, but some shithole, middle eastern or indian scum or some jews and turks haggling in the streets.

America is a Capitalist nation you dumb fuckin Euro fag. Money is how we operate. Sorry you live in a country that fucks you in the ass & demands seconds.

>reading shit like this, america seems not like a first world nation, but some shithole, middle eastern or indian scum or some jews and turks haggling in the streets.
And yet it's Europe that is full of shitskins with ever more of them pouring in with each passing day

europe is also capitalistic, but theres this style and efficiency
imagine people wanting to just know a price in advance
but hey, you fucks cant even put the actual price of good on your price tags, cuz thats some out of this word idea - paying exactly the price thats stated, nah sale tax needs to be hidden

lol, how is your spanish hombre?

Funny thing, I haven't seen any Mexicans driving trucks into crowds and shooting up theaters. You wake up nice and early this morning from your local mosque's call to prayer, user?

Americuck here, we not only LIKE the dealership system but we love it so much we have laws protecting them from Euro-tier bullshit that might ruin it.

Why is a Prius so much more expensive than an Auris hybrid, or even a Rav4 hybrid?

Germany here. While the price is known before you still can try and barter to make a deal.

If you cant add in sales tax using the calculator on your fucking smart phone then there's no hope for you faggot. Jesus Christ, you need someone to press the numbers for you, or is that too complicated?

I can not express my disgust with this reasoning
lets have price tags that are not real price tags
lets make every single person shopping perfrom calculation instead of few people who work in the store

>b-b-but then packaging printed by corporations could not show accurate prices across all states easily

omg, how are you guys superpower?

>omg, how are you guys superpower?
Constant conversions using the non-base 10 Imperial system and regular calculations of sale tax hone the American brain to a higher level of mathematical aptitude. Which is why Americans are the only nation to put men on the moon, doing all the math necessary in the Imperial system and paying sales taxes for different states on all the rocket parts.

The Metric system has cost you Europeans your minds. Simplicity has defeated you!

Sounds like you're already cucked beyond all repair.
Gentlemen, this one is lost.

Did you mean dindus by any chance? Pajeets are pretty honest

I can state with confidence that my kids are my own, user. The weird family big toe mutation is evidence enough.

lets not forget the constant haggling that perfected your Jewishness, thats how you got Challenger and Columbia parts I assume

>unplug the airbag sensor
1000% devilish

That was from slashing the space budget to pay for dindus to go to college and turn they lives around

>Pajeets are pretty honest

>buying a van with daddy's money
>not buying an older 7 seat SUV

I daily drive a sienna and it's hell. Every day the autotragic slushbox makes me want to slit my wrists. I'M GOING 30MPH WHY AM I IN FOURTH!

Basically only take a van if it's free (mine was) and even then, it might not be the best idea.

Hey, dey good bois. First in the family. Gonna get them a white bitch and move to the suburbs!

The one's I've dealt with don't seem too bad, as long as it doesn't involve toilets.

I suppose you buy cars all the time, huh?

True dat. They loved rap music and were just about to release their first mixtape. We need mo money fo dem programs like midnight basketball.

>propagating the SUV plague
get out

kek

I happen to know the dealer paid $11.5k for my car and asked $14.9k.

I paid $13k with a set of sport cups.

The dealer has to make money but will also fake a loss if the car has been sitting a while. Margins aren't that high on used cars.

My parents seem to always get the price down by 4k on new cars. I think it depends on how desperate the dealer is. They just got a new SUV and struck out by going to the first location. They wouldn’t even do 2k but it was filled it shoppers. Other location had no shoppers on a weekend during the holidays. Considering going to an expensive city and buying a cheaper brand. People there will avoid it like a plague.

SUV not CUV. If you need the space, get what amounts to basically a covered truck with more seats. Otherwise buy a wagon. Vans were a mistake.

% if you're lucky

What the fuck kind of cars are you buying and what kind of shitty credit do you have? I consider 3% high, 2% acceptable and

He's right though, dealers make money off of financing and will move more on price.
Credit score is a number controlled by asswipe companies solely to justify fucking you over. If it going down for a few months to save some money bothers you and you aren't planning on using it in that time, you're a fucking retard.
t. someone with a very high credit score

Realistically you're looking at maybe $1.5-2k below the MSRP on a Japanese car.
American cars $4-5k off MSRP depending on the car.
German cars I only have experience leasing them on a special, I wouldn't bother buying one though.

>Lightly used is your best bet (10-20k miles, 1-2 years old)
fucking where? because i see new previous year models go for less than used cars that meet your criteria.

you married a chink?

No, chinks are soulless creatures. I married a gook.

i wouldn't imagine cuddling would be too comfortable with all the plastic and all.

If I need something soft to snuggle there's always one of the dogs brought home for dinner.

kek you're all right.

i hope your kid gets a better score than elliot.

I would be deeply embarrassed for any /k/ommando whose child scored less than 11 points. That's bad parenting there.

didn't read any responses but don't tell them you're paying cash while negotiating a price. they make all their money with jew financing and their dealers are incentivized to get you on the hook

this is a realistic ballpark
roughly 5% to 15%
of course all depends on the vehicle, its condition, asking price compared to KBB value, and the buyers mindset.

Essentially nothing. Dealers make better money financing, they aren't that inclined to give deals for cash.

You may get down to sticker or get a seasonal sale price, but it's not likely to be for any less than they would have sold you the car for if you were financing.

So if dealers get their money off financing and will budge more on price if they think that's what's going on, is it ever a good idea to finance through them to get them to go for a lower price? Or is the goal to use the possibility that you'll finance with them to get them to drop their prices, then pull the surprise cash out last second?

Is haggling about pulling the bullshit things like fake complaining about interior trim stuff and nitpicking, or is it about pulling numbers like KBB, the price they paid for the car, and what other dealerships are willing to sell it for?

Haggling is basically about beating them down and not saying yes until they're at the absolute least number they'll take, but doing it in a way they don't tell you to get fucked in the process.

One dealer may have a lower number than another, even between salesman at a dealership. One guy may take less of a commission than another in order to make the sale. One dealership may be willing to take less on the sale to get it than another.

Dealers are fucking horseshit but that's the way the game works.

What exactly do you use to beat them down? What leverage do you use to force them lower other than your interest to buy the car?

about 20%

It's not the color I want. I wish it had these options. I don't need those options. This dealer will give me a better deal. I can travel and get it for this price. The moon is waning, can't buy now. The moon is waxing, can't buy now. I'm really not ready to buy right now. My wife won't approve. My husband won't approve. The transsexual I see twice a month to lick my asshole won't approve.

Doesn't really matter. Whatever fits the situation. They're going to feed you just as much bullshit back and try to play on your emotions.

>The transsexual I see twice a month to lick my asshole won't approve.
merry christmas

>if I'm paying with cash in hand
What the fuck else would you pay with?
I hate when faggots try to buy shit and lowball you with "I have cash"
Like yeah I wasnt going to take a fucking check?

>Like yeah I wasnt going to take a fucking check?
Well good thing you aren't a fucking dealership then dipshit

If you're buying from a nigger:
1: It's stolen, don't buy it
2: if you still plan on buying, don't keep the cash on you, you'll be robbed
3: you still want it? Tell them 50%, and throw in a gun with markings removed.

If you pay in cash or by credit that doesn't change anything for the seller since he'd get the same amount of money.

On the other hand if you finance the car through the bank of the brand (for example FCA bank or Volkswagen bank) you can ask for a greater discount since they - as the brand society - would earn money through interests.

shut up and stay shut

>he pays full msrp on a new car
>considered impolite or something to haggle
laughinggirls.jpg

>I feel like I'm being rused here.
Generally, you have more negotiation room if you are financing the vehicle because the dealer makes money off a cut from financing deals offered through the dealer. That's because those lenders give the dealer a cut for steering business to them. And if the financing is from the dealer's own financing arm, that is even more profitable as all the finance profit is kept with the parent umbrella corporation.

Dealers don't get any benefit from cash other than they know you can immediately buy it. But if you have a letter of credit from your own credit union or bank, that is much the same.

What some people do for the best bargain is to allow the dealer to run a credit check on them to verify which of the pet lenders to use in making an offer to you. The dealer may price the car lower in hopes of getting back more on the loan interest payments.

So you negotiate a lower price and then pay off the entire balance the next day or whenever the next payment is accepted. Be very careful about the loan contract because more lenders have been making contracts that have a penalty for early payment or early closure. There is yet another trick to wording for states that prohibit contracts not allowing early payment. That is to charge the full anticipated loan interest payout at closure time. Thus, no matter when you close out the loan, you will always be out at least the base interest payments. Pretty sneaky.

>For buying a new vehicle, how much can I realistically barter down the price if I'm paying with cash in hand?

Your baseline prices will be the pre-negotiated price through the Costco new vehicle purchase program or TrueCar. Both give you the price quote and you can then take that to other dealerships to at least price match. That is why those places are good as your baseline pricing. Sam's Club also has a car buying program but it actually is a rebranded version of TrueCar. Costco actually manages their own independent program and sells over a million cars each year so it is quite possibly the USA's biggest individual car reseller. Because of volume sales, Costco has no shortage of dealer applicants to its service.

If you have the GM credit card, then their GM BuyPower program is actually good at giving you a discount. After your lowest negotiated price, you then use their new car buying feature and the discount from BuyPower stacks onto it.

Anyways, go to the TrueCar website and explore what prices you can get from their pre-negotiated prices. Whatever you do, don't pay more than the TrueCar or Costco price for a new car.

youre a fucking retard

nailed it

i moved to germany and it seems to me that every low price car in germany is sold by a turk or yogoslav

idk ask for a very low price because lots of them seem to be letting 1000 less pretty easily, meaning they still make a decent amount.

>don't pay more than truecar prices
you know they're the subject of multiple class-action lawsuits for falsified pricing and misleading business practices? they were providing "pricing" that no one actually could buy for. they're a joke