Mechanics of Veeky Forums, can I use pic related on the slide pins of my brake calipers...

napacanada.com/en/p/PRX24127

what about this shit here? it does not seem like i can get that stuff thats in your pic unless I go through amazon and pay 50 bucks

Use Sil Glyde.

cant get that anywhere here. I just tried looking for it since your not the first person to say that

People don't do it and then wonder why they end up with a stuck caliper. They proceed to blame it on either gummed up lube or a swollen boot or accumulated rust/shit.

It is ~$1.50 extra per pin. Worth the security. They can get incredibly hot and just because you can't see microfractures on them doesn't mean they aren't there fucking shit up.

Every caliper pin I've ever seen has been steel. It is not a wear part. There is zero reason to replace the caliper pins, just clean off the old gunk and regrease them.

i see what you mean. here they are 15 bucks a set though for aftermarket so as long as they are not fubar im just going to reuse them. I will keep your advice in mind if they start to seize on me though and will swap them out. the vehicle is only 2011 so they should be good for a bit.

Only replace pins when they need replacing.
In my experience, calipers don't seize very often, it's usually the pins locked up bevause they weren't lubed properly.
Any brake grease will work, but dont use anti-seize silver or copper. Its not made for that.
Green, black or purple brake grease will work just fine.

If you use quality parts and grease you'll pretty much never have a problem. Aftermarket is largely crap, but OEM brakes can easily make it 200k miles and beyond just changing pads/rotors/fluid.

OEM Honda rebuild kits are what I'm familiar with, they cost a bit more than aftermarket but they include 3 different kinds of grease, one for slide pins, one for dust boots, and one for the main seals. For something like brakes that can literally kill you if they fail I prefer to spend bit extra and get the very best.

why are you so fucking stupid?

>For something like brakes that can literally kill you if they fail I prefer to spend bit extra and get the very best.

you and I think alike, and while I did not get anything like a kit, I did get all the best stuff I could get. The slide pin lube is all I need now.

This. Sil-glyde is best

I use this stuff all the time but pretty much never on brakes lol.

so many questions...

The most recent example would be lubricating a shifter assembly when I replaced all the little worn out plastic bushings.

well that was alot less fun than I thought

I sometimes use it to stick that shift knob up my ass.

winrar lul

>Every brake change caliper slide pins
Waste of money, unless you drive like a tard and ride the brakes constantly

I use permatex ceramic brake grease on my pins and back side of pads and contact points.

I use copper anti seize in hot places, nickle in not hot places.

I use porsche high pressure grease on anything that moves with load, like seat rails, window tracks, sun roof tracks.
I use triflow on things that need to move with light oil that won't get dusty. I use silicon spray on rubbers, especially during assembly.

White lithium grease is pointless. CRC brake stop squeak is worthless.

there is a point at which someone may call another "entirely too anal retentive"

you passed that point about 3 lubricants back

>Using different lubricants for different purposes is bad.
kys retard

No, don't do this. You need to use specific caliper grease (which is usually silicone based) for the pins and rubber boots on brake calipers. It is higher temperature and won't dry out. Feel free to use anti-seize on the mating surface between the wheel hub and the wheel to prevent stuck wheels, though,

Look for it at Napa or Autozone by AGS.

Its good stuff, I'm not a fan of regular brake grease. Sil Glyde doesn't dry out as often

Guys I changed my brakes and didn't use brake grease
Am I screwed?

Depends. Did you reuse old pins/bolts, bushings and boots? You shouldn't more than once, because you know, they come loose or break from previous over-tightening and wear (and they're cheap anyway). If yes, there was probably enough grease in there for the calipers to slide okay for a while. You could get some dragging and premature/uneven pad and disc wear if they don't slide well. You might also notice less braking power and some pedal sponginess. If you used all new pins, bushings and boots and just put everything in there dry, that's pretty bad. Go ahead and redo it correctly so you don't waste your money buying new rotors soon.

tl;dr, Not necessarily, but I wouldn't do that on my car.

My thread is somewhat related but noones replying

using a plethora of different lubricants for every little minor variation is retarded

found it mah nigguh at the lordco near me! even got 15 percent off (god bless thirsty old ladies)

the long answer is maybe. Im the OP and through my research it would seem that you at least need to lube the slide pins. all the other lube points are for noise and not for function so its not mandatory.

Yeah that's why I only use 10-20 oil in every part of my engine.

Sil-Glyde is pretty much standard issue at any Mercedes dealership.

We have our own pastes etc, but for the sliders, we always use Sil-Glyde.

>"""minor""" variation
not reading just makes you look stupid

No one is replying because the thread shouldn't be a thread.

None of what was mentioned in count as "minor variations" you fucking retard.