Looking at buying a 2014 ninja 300 with abs. Its been lowered, exhaust, and power commander. 11k miles. Price is good at 2k.
It's my first bike so I have no clue about them, always been into sport cars. The city that it's in is a shit hole with 2 bike shops and neither will do an inspection even when I said I'll pay double, they want to keep the bike for days.
Sooo how do I inspect it myself? Do the body panels need to be taken off or can I see with them on? What do I do?
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You'll need to ride it, make sure the clutch isn't burnt, check the chain for tension and wear. Do you have an experienced friend who can go with you?
Don't live a shithole. Just buy from an authorized motorcycle dealer like I did.
>overpaying
Scotty covered the most here.
>>>/dbt/
Buy a 600 or get the fuck out
Who cares? A good Kawasaki 300 goes for 3k with around 2k miles where I live.
I don't even have my motorcycle license yet so I can't ride it . And the one guy that fixes bikes and shit cant go with me. Any way I can check those without riding it?
buy something not modified.
They buy them used from people and charge up the price.
THank you for the vid! Learned a lot
Later
But I like the modifications and would have done them later myself anyway?
Also what the hell is wrong with the swingarm and the bike being so low. Did the owner install a lowering kit?
You can ride it around the block with no license, just don't be an idiot. And Google is your friend, that's how I learned when I was new to motorcycles, I taught myself everything because my parents were over protective faggots
Yes lowering kit
But what if I crash it? I watched the vids but didn't have a bike to practice
Lmao, those bikes aren't that tall anyways. Is the owner a manlet.
Also, that chain looks suspiciously rusty.
Wew, lad go take a basic riders course and learn prior to buying. You can do it without it, but if you lack confidence you won't do well.
Do your motorcycle safety course or whatever they have in your country.
Pretty close.
Short women rider
Damn I bet she would rail the fuck out of you with a huge strapon. Send her my number, user
It's cold as fuck and don't think they do them until the spring.
Then maybe wait on it. There will be bikes out there when it's warm. Maybe you can save up more and buy a better bike. Get a 600. They aren't too fast for a beginner
t. Guy who learned on a modern 600 in the Appalachian mountains
I really dont want to start on a 600 and really dont want to shell out 5k+ for a decent 600 that hasn't been fucked
>woman rider
>4 finger grip
gg clutch
Definitely do MSF or whatever your country's equivalent is. Outside of getting a personal teacher, it's probably the best way to learn how to ride in one weekend for a new rider. Plus it will lower your insurance by 10-15%. MSF has courses year round as long as it isn't snowing where you're at.
Winter is the best time to buy a bike though. Lowest prices. But this user is right, you can find 300s for very cheap year round, and 600s too. No shortage of them. A 600 isnt hard to learn on as long as you know that if your first instinct in a bad situation is to go wot or grab a handful of the front brakes you're gonna go ass over head or head over ass
Good examples can be had for around 3k. I sold a very nice, maintained 2005 GSXR600 for 3500 recently.
I guarantee you will be bored and full of regret on a 300 within 6 months. Trust me. That 600 was just right, I even bought a 1k 8 months after I started riding because I was already confident enough for it. And I was on crazy was twisties so don't even say I was a highway queen.
>winter is the best time to buy
This is a very weak myth. People will always expect more for their bike than it's worth no matter what the season. They will drop their price regardless when they realize it won't sell for what they feel it's worth
*crazy ass twisties
I remember seeing some informal study done that showed average price for various used motorcycles in each month, and december-february had the lowest prices by a decent amount.
Can't be fucked to go find it again, so give it whatever worth you give to random strangers claiming things on the internet. It was pretty well done though. But i do know for a fact that winter is the best time to buy cars. Dealerships are anxious to get rid of older stock to make room for the new year's models
I'll take your word on it. I can't imagine he will save much on an already cheap bike though. 2k is as much as anyone should pay for that bike no matter what time of year.
I still think it's worth the wait until he knows how to ride or at least has the money for a 600. That 300 is fucking anemic. It would be fun on a track, but not a worthy street bike
It's a good learner bike and a great commuter. It's reliable as shit and even when I was waiting on it, it never dropped beneath 55 mpg. I had one for a year, but you are right that if he wants to go faster, he'll be bored with a 300 in a few months at most.
Still kinda wish I hadn't sold mine, it was fun being able to actually redline something and not be doing 100
How to know if clutch is going out? I will take MSF very soon.
I been looking at bikes for almost a year and prices are stupid for used bikes. My area absolutely sucks. Beat to shit 250 bikes are always 2.5k + around here. Cheapest beat to shit 600s are 3k+ and they need work done. Non running bikes are 1.5k.
Been looking at 250s to start on and then upgrade in 6 months to year and this 300 popped up, and we negotiated down to 2k. It's almost 2 hrs away. Has the upgrades I like so I don't mind that.
Don't want to spend 5k+ on my first bike....still need to buy all gear so that's over a grand
>Its been lowered, exhaust, and power commander.
>all of my why
I'd you don't buy it give me the details so I can
>300cc
>stretched and lowered
Buying a minorly modded bike is not a big deal as most are not stock long. Before you arrive to look at the bike tell them you do not want them to start and warm-up the bike beforehand/verify cold when you get there. BEFORE you inspect the bike ask questions that can be verified true or false based on the inspection. Example: ask if it has ever been down. If they say, "no never" yet you see scratches on one side of the plastics as well as nicks in the bar ends/rearsets they are hiding damage. While a slight amount of damage in minor areas might not be a deal breaker the lack of truthfulness would be (for me) because now you know they cannot be trusted. Get an idea of who rode the bike. I would much prefer a mature person to a young male who doesn't shower.
Divide the inspection into sub-sections. First look into all the wear items such as brake pads, chain, fork seals, etc. Look at the tires. Look at the chain slack. Look at the sprockets. Look at the mileage and whether the degradation of any wear items coincides with the mileage. For example they say it's been babied/hardly ridden but the brake pads are smoked and the chain and sprockets need to be replaced...that's a no-go. Everything they say should match the condition of the motorcycle. Wear items being worn out are not necessarily a deal breaker...since they are wear items you would have to replace them at some point anyways. But you can use the wear and tear as leverage to negotiate further lowering the price. It is also a good idea to know what replacement parts cost BEFOREHAND. So if the chain and sprockets are smoked you know it will cost you however many dollars. Now look at the hardparts.(frame, stays, rims, shock/forks, etc. Start the bike from cold/rev it through the range. Should be no sluggish/flat spots, etc. Make sure cowling is not broken and all mounting points are used. Ask about fluids/where it has been stored. Make sure all lights/hand controls work. Ride it. All is good/no lies? Buy it.
>Cars and motorcycles are not the same!!