Hey Veeky Forums so basically I want a 3k civic and a used car dealership near me is selling a pretty clean 94 dx hatch with under 100k miles but the catch is that they’re asking $5500.
How do haggle Jew car man down to something not retarded. Also post general tips on haggling/ buying used cars
>know what it's worth to begin with
>don't play the trade-in game to work down the price because trade-in is for after you made a deal
>don't be an idiot about loans and other Jewish tricks that won't matter more than a few tanks of gas in the long run
>don't spend all week telling them you're going to walk again because you still have to think about it
>line up an alternative or two from somewhere else in case you really do want to walk because you're getting the run around or a shitty deal
You're not allowed to use that photo user. Delet this and repost.
Agreed.
Try Craigslist instead my man, you surely can get something just as nice for at least $4,000, maybe far less if you settle for a higher mileage car and can actually commit to spending the money for a proper rebuild or just a proper extensive tune-up
>5.5k for a 24 year old honda...
I will never understand the Honda Tax.
My grandfathers 15 year old Accord is worth more than my 5 year old Volkswagen.
Someone post the complete LPG pdf, i spent like 4 hours one afternoon reading the lot and it was well worth it.
It's stupid. Seems to affect their bikes and scooters too. You can't get a Honda Ruckus for less than $1000 and it is literally some welded steel tubing with a seat, wheels and 50cc engine that tops out at 35. There's one on CL near me with a 150CC engine swap that is $1500, the unmolested ones are even more expensive. To put that in perspective, I can buy a Saturn SW2 for the same price: twice the wheels, 100 times the displacement, and enough cargo room to carry four Ruckuses.
That's because your volkswagen, even when it was new, was a bigger piece of shit than his old shitty honda
But most these overpriced honda's are actual pieces of garbage with boomer tier pricing
>20 year old car
>rusted to shit
>needs new transmission
>5k NO TIRE KICKERS I KNOW WHAT I GOT
still better than a new german car
>buy corolla
>has better engine than civic
>is more reliable
>more space
>wont get stolen by a dindu
>wont attract attention for being a ricer
Here's a few tips based on my experience both as a seller and a buyer. Perhaps they're obvious, but I follow them nevertheless.
>Set a price you want to pay for your car
Even if it's low, if that's what you want to pay, then no point haggling any prices above that. But be reallistic to yourself and don't tell yourself you're paying 3k for a car that is usually worth 4k then end up paying the 4k. That will ruin your leverage game.
>Know the market
Look around for more cars in the same condition as the one you're trying to buy and see what they are worth. If you set the bar too low then you will only be wasting your time, and time is money fren.
>Be honest about your motives
The seller doesn't care why you're buying your car, but especially if it is a private seller, he may be compelled to sell you the car if they see you really want it. For example, if you're offering 3k on a Civic from a private seller, they may feel more compelled to sell it to you if you say you want to restore it because you love Civics so much, than if you just say you want a daily beater.
>Don't try to lowball the sellers
Particularly private sellers. Commercial sellers are okay because they have a profit margin to play with and it's not their own car, even though I believe nothing will come out of doing it. But if you do this to a private seller, believe me, you will kill some deals right then and there. Go see the car, try it out, and then negociate with the seller. Or just play your cards right away and tell them that you can only offer X for their car, not because you THINK it's worth that, but because that's all you can afford.
(cont.)
Cont. from >Don't point out defects!
Again this is more effective on private sellers. Unless you are buying a car that is in new condition, or a freshly restored classic, nobody expects a second hand car to be in perfect condition. Any car that you will visit will have some other defect, and the prices of the cars already reflect their state. By pointing out defects on somebody's car you're basically telling them you have a better idea of how their car is than their own.
The reverse also works the same, if you're selling a car be truthful about it's defects, because a potential buyer will see them and walk away from the deal. It's fair if you forget about some that they discover right away, but at least make an effort to note the most obvious ones. The buyer won't feel like it's a scam.
>Don't tell the seller you'll come back/call back later
Nobody really believes that until it actually happens. And it doesn't make you look good. If for some reason you decide a month later that you still want the car, you will find that it has already been sold or that the seller still remembers you and now is hard on their price and won't negociate. If you want it but want to shop around a bit more for alternatives, just say so to the seller, you may even get a nice deal out of it if they're in a rush to sell.
Again, I'm not a car salesman, I usually buy and/or sell a car each year privately as I like to drive different things from time to time, and I love restoring older cars. And this has been my experience so far. It has landed me a few great deals!
Just uploaded my copy, this link should work I think
my.mixtape.moe/qdkjwl.pdf
>not buying a sprinter
>haggling for 40% off asking price
>at a dealership
you don't. you go on craigslist and find one. dealerships have expenses (payroll, building/land lease, insurance, advertising) so you will never get 40% off asking price at a dealership unless there are some extreme circumstances. People on craigslist don't have this kind of overhead when they're selling a car.
Good advice user.
Another thing to add is to negotiate and offer a firm price before test driving the car or even trying to start it. A seller will ask for more $$$ if he/she can tell ypu really like the car, or if you comment about how nice it drives or how great of condition its in. Don't give them any idea of how much you really want the car, keep casual, as though you might buy something else somewhere else, but you will make an offer here and now.
I offered $700 on a Bronco 2 that I was checking out, seller let me know that it had runnung issues, so I decided to try to buy it on the spot before he started the motor.
He said how about $800, I responded $750 firm and I'll call for a tow truck right now whether it runs or not. He shook my hand, it was a deal.
And just as I expected, it fired and ran for a couple seconds before it died. So i probably could have taken it back down to $700 but we had already shook hands in agreement for $750.
Cheap remanufactured altetnator and a new premium interstate battery and the truck runs just fine. Needs a LOT of TLC and at least $1000 worth of parts, $1000 for tires and a lifetime alignment plan.
Gonna be doing 75-80% of the labor myself so its gonna be a fun project on a budget.
He probably paid less than half that at an auction
tips for financing a car?
I am going to buy a 2016-2017 WRX STI (used) with between 10-30k km and they all cost between 32k-40k depending on mileage, accessories, tech package etc
How do you deal with the dealer?
This is my first time financing a new car, I am clueless and don't want to get rekt.
What are the points to check for?
>Why are you eating dog shit?
>It's better than pig shit! HA!
Don't
Usually they'll talk to the back room guy for a while and then be able to lay out some options based on the length of the loan and how much you can put down.
What they might not do is tell you directly how much you'll wind up paying for the car over the length of the loan. That's the important part, so bring a calculator. They might just tell you something like "oh well that'd be $400 a month" or "well if you pay $50 more a month you can do this instead."
If they try to make it really complicated with trade ins and options and freebies and stuff, that's where you can wind up getting confused and Jewed. So make sure to keep yourself grounded just thinking about how much the car is going to cost you in total. And it's a good idea to call your bank first to see what kind of loan they could offer you for comparison so you have some idea of whether the dealer loan is a total rip off or not.
For a second I thought lpg was back with his final stories. For a second, i had hope.
I'm going to put 20k down and financing for two or three years, as long as it's under 400$ per 2-weeks I'm happy.
But I don't want to be jewed
That sounds ball park responsible, but do run the numbers to see how you wind up paying in total to make sure you're OK with that. And if it's a loan you can pay off early to avoid interest all the better. That way you can decide whether to spend extra money working down the total cost or coughing up the interest if you find you need the money you have for something else.
First car I bought was I think about $300/mo for 3 years and I wound up being able to pay it off in 2 years to save the better part of a grand overall.