QUESTIONS THAT DONT DESERVE THEIR OWN THREAD

Would sitting for a year fuck up my valve seat? Seems to be running alright, maybe a touch rich, but I'm getting some srs explosions out of the exhaust with revs and the o2 sensor in the extractors is running at about 850mvolts. I only have extractors on at them moment but surely no exhaust wouldn't do this.

Check them yourself with a pry bar or a huge pair of channel locks. Often you can't tell visually if they have failed.

Just get steel stockies if you're gonna drive like a dickhead

Enkei 15x7 for 205/50/15 - better tires

It looks like my car has two oil leaks, one looks like it's coming from what I'm assuming is the oil pan. The other I believe is around whatever you call this thing. I'd much rather prefer not to get jewed by a workshop and deal with it myself but I'm really not comfortable getting right underneath my car with the equipment I have available.
What do you say? Just bight the pillow and take it to a mechanic?

How olds the oil and is it the correct viscosity? I don't know what you drive, but a sump can be an absolute cunt to get to in some cars.

The last oil change was done by the mechanic about half a year ago. I assume he used the correct oil...
It's a saab 9-3
>but a sump can be an absolute cunt to get to in some cars
>Saab
Yeah I don't have a good feeling about this

You're due for a service anyway, so just try changing the oil. If it gets a bit thin, it can leech out of the seals easier. Get the service manual for you shitbox so know the correct oil to use. If will also tell you the procedure for fixing a sump leak.

Not every car has the crisp steering response of an Acura TL
Some cars a just sloppy.

What's the best way to get a license in Quebec? All the major driving schools are way too expensive for my liking. Are there some dank chink ones that I can just slip a hundred bucks and they'll manufacture some documents for me saying I did driving school when I actually didn't? Shit nigga I don't even mind actually going to school as long as it costs less than, say, 400 bucks.

Also, my dream car is an MR2 but how are they as daily drivers? Is it true the front trunk is basically unusable? Can they be equipped with roof racks/pods for doing groceries or whatever?

Just drive on expired tags. In my state they have a 1 month leniency. Either way jusg be apologetic and you'll hopefully just get a warning.
Definitely not option B.

Is there any aftermarket for first gen mazda3? I got it recently and want to fuck around with it but I'm not sure where to start

I need your help. Long story short, I have a used camper shell that doesn't fit 100% onto my 2001 Chevy Silverado K2500 long bed, the length is correct, but the sides were a bit too wide, so I bent them in a bit and bolted it to my truck. I plan to live in it, and unfortunately, water gets in between the camper and the bed rails(?). What material(s) can I use to make a water tight seal for my camper to the truck bed, so that when it rains, I don't get soaked. Any help is greatly appreciated, I don't really wanna use caulking since I would like to take it off sometimes, so any advice or suggestions would be helpful. I've tried googling for answers, and nothing will help from what I've searched, besides weather strips. Maybe that'll work? Thank you.

insulating foam might work, it'll probably not look great(unless you can spray it into a crack where you cant see)but it'll keep the water out and is easy to apply in a spray can and is cheap.

So Im looking at a car that doesnt have the camber or toe arms installed yet, does this mean I have have to tow it home if I buy it?

Thank you for the fast response! Is it that yellow foam stuff in a can you are talking about? Does it come off easy if need be? And is it waterproof?

yeah the yellow foam shit, I used it for a leak in my garage and it stopped the water. you can just break it off by hand or with a small knife and scrub the rest off the surface.

The strut braces from which cars would bolt onto a 1993 Honda Civic hatchback?

I was replacing my ignition coil, and some acorn bits fell into the hole. How would I go about cleaning them out?

Vacuum. What hole does your ignition coil have?

ive got a 1966 dodge coronet with a huge hole in the frame from rust how do i get rid of the car without scrapping it the rear bumper is sagging from it

>support frame
>cut away shit rusty shit
>weld in new piece
>grind weld flush so you can't tell its been welded
>tar the frame so it doesn't rust

too much is gone cant tell where the frame connected

Copy the other side.

im tired of the rust i want to restart with something without it a good six inches is missing in one spot

You're gonna have to scrap it or dump it then, my man. Make you're you get the next one rust treated.

>keyless remote unlocks doors
>physical key doesnt
>physical key starts car
how fix?

If battery goes flat im locked out.

wtf?????
am I missing something here????

The car effectively has no steering, so yes.

Does the physical lock turn with the key in it?

One is made of unobtanium

does that mean I can run all the boost?

>still in college
>make around 18k a year with my parttime job.
>I still live with my parents and have zero expenses.
>I have currently 20k saved up

How much should I spend on a car? I know everybody is gonna say "3k civic" and "save your money" etc etc. but i was thinking this maybe the perfect moment for a long time before I would be able to buy something fun again. When I'm done with school I probably have to spend some years looking for a job and get a stable income before I would have the oppurtunity to buy a nice car again...

I was kinda thinking of the m1 coupe, since they are in my price range and cheap to maintain in my country (germany)

>I know everybody is gonna say "3k civic"
nothing wrong with a 3k civic as long as you add a few simple mods to it

I needed a combo stalk for my truck, googled the PN and found a site that sells toyota parts and such. It's been like 3 days and my stalk is still "On Order" despite it saying "In Stock" on the item page. Was I just ripped for 250 bucks? I mean if I pay for it, and it never goes back in stock I'm out of luck, right?

What modern cars are easy to work on?

golf R

I've had some of those things I'd been suspicious of for years and mechanics would always say it's fine and I couldn't get any good wobble out of them myself.

And then one year one of them fails to pass inspection and BAM all of a sudden the car feels like it should. I would definitely put those up for a possibility. Possibly the strangest thing I've ever had was a replacing a CV axle and having that remove a bunch of undiagnosable drivetrain slack.

The 2018 Lada.

Fucked up and backed into garage drywall. Pic related is the damage, no denting just lots of chipped paint. I bought the right color spray paint, what is the first step in making this ready to be painted over?

anybody had to get 1 day/non owner insurance? i need it, but of the 4 places ive called only one gave me an actual quote, almost $800 for 6 months. im wanting like $50 for a day

Would an n/a mk3 supra make a good fun daily driver?

>taking door panel off
>glue that attaches to plastic plug screws peels off the panel isntead of the plastic plug screw popping out

FML this is never going to look right again.

The little clip of this cubby hole broke off and the thing is now constantly hanging open, is there a way to replace the clip or do I have buy a new car?

i have a 1st gen Supra i used to daily in summer and a Toyota Crown with the NA 7M engine, plenty of fun as is

little shitboxes like Mitsubishi Mirage

Wait until somebody tells you that you were supposed to use the one weird trick that pops the fasteners out easily and buy new ones rather than putting it back together with the half of them you didn't lose, mangle, or forget where they go :D

For obscure stuff like that you usually have to pay $500 for a whole new dashboard and spend all week trying to figure out what to do until you give up and push it off a cliff.

Junkyard might be the best bet. At least then you can fuck up somebody else's dashboard trying to figure it out before destroying your own.

Repainting is kind of an art so you'd want to google a tutorial or wait for somebody who does that all the time to tell you the magic. But the basic idea is first you clean that wet, dirty mess.

Then you sand it and primer it. And if you're feeling special you can like claybar the surrounding area first, use 10 different kinds of wet sand paper and emery cloth, remember to get clear coat for after you carefully put on 5 coats of paint etc.

Thanks

If you're feeling uncertain you can practice on some scrap metal first or something. It's actually not that hard to get something that looks halfway decent and doesn't flake away within a year, but getting an area that big on a bumper to blend in might take some doing.

It's a lot easier if you have some part or other you can take off and do the whole thing to make it look uniform.

Hi guys, so my income exploded recently and I want a small, decent, reliable saloon that will haul my ass in quiet comfort without being too flashy. So I will naturally go for a boring af B6/B7 Audi A4 with a petrol engine.

Is there any difference between the B6 and B7 other than visuals (rear and front bumpers and lights, steering wheel and a shift knob)?

Also, anyone here got any knowledge on the petrol engines?
The reason why I will go for another petrol car is because 1)quiet af 2)I don't drive much and 3)I'm a city dweller that rarely goes out in the wild.
>I know the 1.6 petrol by the back of my hand, reliable af but not very fast nor economical. I want a discreet car that will give me some power.
>I heard that the 1.8T is the most balanced of them all, performance-economy-maintainance wise. However I'm a literal John Snow when it comes to this engine - the fuel consumption (not that important), the reliability (some say it's an oil leaking piece of kit. Some say it's bulletproof. Some say it's oil sensitive. All we know is, it's the 1.8 Turbo)
>The 2.0 136 bhp NA, which is basically an enlarged version of the 1.6 petrol. A relic from the past - not very fast, not very economical, but damn reliable
>There is also the comically fast 2.4 V6 177 bhp NA petrol, but that one seems abit too large for a city dweller. It's large, expensive, thirsty, maintainance intensive, but comically fast and that noise is made out of the same material as Johnny Sins. In other words, an ode to masculinity, the epitome of what men should aspire to.

Help me Veeky Forums, I can't decide which engine to pick.

>177hp
>comically fast

europoor detected

For your american, not so bright brain, I should probably tell you that an 2.4L V6, 177 bhp mid-spec Audi saloon that had nothing to do sports has/had a top speed of 141 mph.

Now, if I were to compare it to another 2004 product that had similar performance, that would be the Mustang GT 4.6L V8 305 bhp. The top speed of the 2005 Mustang GT was/is 149 mph.

Yep, a full on American muscle car, with a 4.6L V8, 305 bhp, is just 8 mph faster than an mid spec, midsize saloon Audi A4 with about half the displacement and half the power.

You don't need a large engine in order to go fast. Hell, even a fucking 1.9 TDI 105 bhp diesel does 135 mph. 110 mph with you in it, since you're a fat american that will slow it down.

>what is gearing
>what is acceleration

nice try muhammed, the mustang still has a higher top speed and will get there much sooner

>Having to defend the Mustang GT from a mid spec Audi A4.

>implying horsepower has anything to do with top speed aside from overcoming air resistance
imagine being this retarded

>1.6 (owned)
All you ever need for driving from a to b
>1.8T (tried on several occasions)
Stock it is the most boring piece of shit you will ever drive. Chiptuning is cheap and gives great results with that engine
>2.0 (tried once)
no
>2.4 (owned)
Sounds great, decent power on most revs, but shitkids with the 1.8t will rek u

>not gluing it shut and re-gluing it shut if you ever need to open it

1.6t Prince or similar. Saves you money, but not fun.

velcro m8

bitches get wet when they here it rip - reminds them of the first time they got finger banged in middle school when velcro sneakers were cool

>>implying horsepower has anything to do with top speed aside from overcoming air resistance

You're right, horsepower doesn't have anything to do with top speed. Any sort of speed actually.

Thank you based user.

So, based on the fact that I will do mostly city driving, I should shut up and get an base 1.6 petrol? Isn't it abit too slow? Just asking, genuienly curious.

I currently have a 308gti. It's a bit too slow.
Most cars will feel a bit too slow after a while. Just rev the shit out of it and it will be fast enough when you need it to. And since you will be doing mostly city driving it's your best option.

But like i said, if you are a car nut, the 1.8t has insane potential.

hey man

I'm actually thinking about doing this, I never put anything in the thing anyway, except for some random cd's

I'd rather stay away from chiptuning and stuff like that because the 1.8T was most probably trashed and has way over 200k kms. I doubt that tuning it would do it very good.
The 2.0 sounds tempting tho, with a 0-100 in 9,9 seconds, as opposed to the 1.6 which does it in 12,5 seconds. Not that it matters in the city though.
So, you say you tried it once and was thoroughly unimpressed?

Besides, this car will be driven also by my gf and will haul a lot of family around, so it won't be seeing much action packed acceleration.

I heard that the fuel consumption between the 1.6 and the 2.0 is about the same.

Seen some really cool quattros the other other day, too bad they were either 1.9 TDI or 2.5 TDI. I'm not touching that shit, especially for a city car.

Magnets would be another option. Hardware store would have something cheap designed to hold the medicine cabinet in you bathroom closed or whatever.

The 2.5tdi had bad cams i think. Stay away unless you do proper research.
1.9tdi is bulletproof and effortless to city-drive due to the low end torque, but it's a really old engine.

2.0 petrol Too small of an improvement over the 1.6 but if you're hauling a lot of people you might want just a tad more power than the 1.6.
I have no idea about the fuel consumtion between the two, but in my mind the 2.0 will probably drink a wee bit more.

So how should i go about troubleshooting my cars idle problems? what order should i fix things?
Theres a few things wrong with it.
Theres a short/bad ground on the dashboard so half the dash sometimes doesn't light up and the fuel gauge doesnt work.
When i was driving the car the tac jumps around infrequently it seems to be caused by the dashboards bad wiring.
today the car had trouble starting and idling. RPM changed constantly and would cut out.
It seemed to run better and more constantly when i tightened the throttle cable locking nuts.
The worst part is the that the rpm actually dropped when i pressed the accelerator and would sometimes cut out.
the car had trouble starting it would crank ok the stator works fine but it seemed it had a hard time igniting. if the engine did start it would be immediately after i turned the key back to on.

The car has some really weird symptoms. While it has the electrical faults im not sure if they are the root cause of the problems. im not sure if i should attempt to troubleshoot why its not working until i fix the dashboards problems.

I'm not a taxi driver, I usually take like 1 or 2 people aboard, from time to time.
Well, since what info I gathered from the local Audi forums, the 1.6 102 bhp is an ok engine for the A4 B6/B7, if sporty driving is not your thing. If you are a civilized person, that drives like some middle aged man (I do drive like a middle aged man) and just wants a solid car, the 1.6 is a great choice.

So I guess I'll pick the 1.6 NA petrol or a 2.0 FSI if one will drop by some miracle. Petrol A4s, petrol midsize saloons in fact, are such rare cars.
The ads are full with 1.9 TDI and 2.0 TDI A4s.

Thank you based user.

Why no diesel tho?

when I watch drag races on a strip, after the cars line up with the guy guiding them, they always seem to lurch forward very slightly and quickly once or twice before the light turns green. Why is that? Is it just them working the clutch/brakes/gas at a high rpm on the line? Trying to sneak an extra inch?

how much should I pay for an automatic c4 corvette with a huge cam 350? The body is immaculate but
>automatic
and the dash/interior is fucked

Busy European city short drives. This kills the diesel.

A friend of mine used to have a Mk6 Golf 1.6 TDI, and he used just for short trips from home to college and back.
In just 30k kms he wrecked 2 turbos and 1 EGR.

How about a BMW E30? You should be able to find any variant that isn't the M3 in a great state with that budget of yours and they're insanely fun to drive. No idea how expensive or easy to get they are in Germany, so I might be wrong here.

>vehicle doesn't work
good job not including make model year my dude
>wants to fix the dash
>when the car won't even operate properly
priorities
first make sure your chassis and engine ground are good
everything else sounds like a symptom of that
>the car had trouble starting it would crank ok the stator works fine but it seemed it had a hard time igniting. if the engine did start it would be immediately after i turned the key back to on.
check ignition coil after assuring proper ground

Is a 2005 Volvo S60 worth considering? I'd like something with a little more power than my current 138hp Hyundai shitbox

Get universal weatherstrips or insulating strips from car shops or Home Depot and line it between the crack

88-00 Civic (incl. CRX)
94-01 Integra

Go to a junkyard or check eBay

Ford era Volvos are a massive failure. I wouldn't consider any Volvo from that period.
If you want something comfy, why not go straight for the C CLass?
If you want a little more power, why buy an S60 boat? Why not go for the equivalent E46? The 320i was a pretty fast animal, even with it's leaking problems.

>scrap

What would be better for hooning and dd'ing, an RSX or an IS300?

I dont know what the fuck happened to the old pcv valve, looks like someone tossed it down the road and hit it with a hammer a few times.

What is the brass piece on the old one, I have to replace it because the threads on it are completely fucked.

captcha ate pic

Shit spark or fuel pressure maybe
I hope you're memeing, my man.

How do I learn to car maintenance and upgrading? I'm buying an 86 e30, and I want to treat it right. Maybe one day in the far future I can engine swap it.

It looks like the brass piece is what the valve is supposed to thread into. It's not actually supposed to be removed unless the thread is stripped. I don't know it's name on cars but they'd be called a brass press in threaded insert anywhere else.

>maintenance and repair
Buy a service manual.
>upgrading
Engineering degree

Anybody got recommendations on good radar detectors?

Why would someone get a 4 series when the 2 series exists?