QTDDTOTT

010 taco
Diagnosed to bad battery
Autozone bat under warranty
Guy says, yeah if you drive it here it will be all charged and pass our test.

Is there any ez way to sabotage
batt charging but still drive there?

>going to buy a ran when parked car
Just imagine how good it will look in your step dad's driveway waiting for you to save twice as much as you paid for it to fix it.

It still runs

I never understand when people post about family members not only asking way too much for a car they dont use, but not just giving it to them. Maybe it's because I wasn't raised by poorfags, 3k is a monthly income for most people and they don't care about some old pos.

I'm a born and raised poorfag and I gave my sister a spare shitbox when she passed her driving test. They're more than likely just cunts

I've been working at a ford dealership as a regular tech for over a year now and I want to get a new car. Is buying a new car worth it compared to getting the last model year? I have the income to support financing a gt350 with my desired options with a hefty down payment but I know almost everyone here advises against financing.
Wat do?

Found this shit box on craigslist its an 1985 Camry. Im wondering if I could do an engine swap and if so what kind of motor would I be limited to?

I'm not quite sure what makes people value a brand new car just that much more. Some people obviously do. But when I look at the bottom line, I have a hard time justifying brand new vs. a year or maybe even more older as that's in near-new condition. As a tech I'm sure you have a decent idea of your own of what counts as being "near-new."

As for financing I don't really the the upside in saying never ever finance. If you're not taking out a stupid loan, the total cost of the interest is probably not going to be all that much compared to the cost of buying, operating, and maintaining the vehicle. With the loan, now you have money for whatever else might come up in your life, or you can go ahead and pay the loan down faster and save on interest. Plus it helps your credit rating, which is no holy grail but still nice to have if you need it.

There will never be an official anything of Veeky Forums, only a vocal majority.

It's temping huh?
Don't finance with shit rate

1976 Triumph Spiftire, not running, no rust. How much can I realistically sell it for? It's been sitting for about ~25 years and I really can't see myself being able to restore it any time soon.

Well, I guess my shitbox could still go another year. I'm excited to see what ford has planned for the 2019 gt350 unless its still the 2017/2018 model. I'll save up some more and increase my credit with the tool trucks that come by in the mean time. Thanks fagg/o/ts

Gonna get it diagnosed soon, but really hope some of you can help with my issue.
Got a 92 Chevy K1500, has a GM crate 350 with about 10k miles on it, transmission was rebuilt a few thousand miles ago, heavy duty torque converter installed at the same time.
I can't describe very well all of what is going on but the most prominent problem is this sort of shudder like I'm going over a bump when I'm cruising at about 35-45mph. There's a subtle thud that happens simultaneously. Beyond that, the truck just doesn't seem quite right. Acceleration seems significantly slower than usual, it seems the oil temp may be getting slightly higher than usual, but still not anywhere close to overheating range. Don't think any gear slippage has occurred.
Sorry for making this so long winded. To me it seems like a torque converter problem. If it's not that, it's the transmission. If it's not that, it's the engine. All those things are practically new though. Drive shaft maybe?
I love this truck more than I love almost any person in my life and just want her to be 100% again, because up until this point she has been incredibly reliable and trouble free.

I bought a 2017 Mustang GT new for 25k, did I do good?

It's stick, but I enjoy stick

Pretty good. 2015s are still 22-23k around me.

Leave your lights on when you get there maybe

Troubleshooting question. 05 Camry throws code P0442. Try reseating gas cap and reset, just comes back. Was gonna do a smoke test but friend says its a bad mass air flow sensor. Doesn't make sense to me since I thought that had it's own P01xx code. Thoughts?

I'd do the smoke test first for sure, unless somebody wants to lend you a sensor so you don't shell out the money for nothing.

how do I drive without insurance in california
I bought a car and registered it. And now DMV is telling me to show insurance unless I want my registration suspended. Can I just pay for insurance for one month and they'll fuck off? im from new hampshire where we don't need it

Anyone have any experience with these cars? I'm goana go look at one monday. Don't know much about the scions so this will be my first experience with one.

So my 04 Jetta shitbox had electrical issues with codes ringing up for Ignition Coil problems and a faulty Cam Shaft Position Sensor. Replaced the Ignition Coil, Sparkplugs and the Sensor and the car still runs in limp mode with the same codes still there. We've also reset the computer multiple times.

What do? Just drive it out?

Congrats on getting last MY new and at a bargain price. Also nice on getting one that looks good. I don't hate 2018 but some angles are wack

bump

Clean up the grounds and other obvious electrical connections maybe? Kind of sounds like general purpose flaky voltages, although there may be something peculiar to those jettas where some kind of running condition that's slightly off freaks the ECU out. Like I could imagine valve lash or timing or a busted harmonic dampener on the crank pulley or some stupid thing like that getting a bitchy ECU's panties in a bunch.

my 1978 C3 corvette has this marigold colored flourish on the sides, around the tail lights, and on the top of the headlight panels. I can't find much about this, so this leads me to believe it is unoriginal. does anyone know if they put these on factory?

I don't think the paint has been redone. the paint on the car is quite nice, but the flourish is mostly worn off, leading me to believe it was put on over the overcoat.

the paint code is 10L. I know the '10' stands for Classic White, but I can't find what the 'L' means.

final picture of it. yeah the VIN doesn't say much, and the 'L' paint code stands for 'lacquer' from my research, but if anyone happens to know if this is original or not, that'd be nice.

what's a common low ratio differential?
i have a somewhat Veeky Forums-related project in mind and need as low as a diff ratio i can get
i've seen some 2.73 ratio diffs from the cadillac sts and c5 corvette

God I feel so bad for that horse.

I've only ridden a horse once I didn't really know how to relate exactly, but that's just protracted misery for both of them.

How hard would it be to import an rx3 savanna to the US from Australia or Japan? in a perfect world I'd get one and swap a 13b into it and have maximum brap

>82 XJS for $1700 in my area
should I get it?

nope. it doesn't work.

will be changing both outer CV boots
EXOVCDS recommends swapping the joints to get more life of them

>the question
the joint, the thing being swapped is the balls/cage/outer assembly
the thing in the picture in the corner, right?
why does it doubles lifetime, its bearing, it rotates all around inside.

this is the video, the swaping is mentioned at around 05:40
youtu.be/UAOF5oQnIFE

Buy it drive it love it they gutless but stronk little econoboxs ive had two.

What is the closest thing to a non-convertible Miata that isn't the Toyobaru?

I doubt there is a large aftermark for an 85 camry, but I'd be willing to bet with some fabrication experience you could fit damn near whatever you'd like in one. A I6 sounds like a good idea, but anything bigger than it's standard and you'll be needing a new transmission to go with it.

Drive it until it breaks down and swap it up.

Look at the road, you can usually spot the cuts made to fit the triggers (pic related) for the speed camera, unless it uses radar/laser or something else, which is unusual for the kind of cameras you posted, at least in my yuropoor country.
If it has those squares on both lanes, then it probably means the camera can get both, otherwise it's just the lane with the triggers.

£1000-£2000
maybe a little more if there is truly no rust.

I have two bad dents in the rockers of my car (E39). I was thinking about fixing this myself. I already saw some vids where it's done with some bondo and spray paint.

Is it hard to do when you have little to no experience or can I expect a somewhat decent job given enough time and preparation?

Also gimme some tips about this

I want to buy a car but it has confusing odometer reports. In late 2012, the odometer read 150k according to autocheck. In mid 2017, the odometer read 120k according to vehiclehistory. Neither site is setting off an "incorrect reading" alarm, they both just assume it's the correct number. The first site is paid and the second is free. Wtf?

1972 maverick with the 302 or the 1969 thunderbird with a 429? About the same price.

Let's back up a moment. Why are you replacing the boots in the first place? Why are the boots all fucked up? I have to ideas.

1. The boot tore open, the grease came out, the bearings got full of dirt and are going to die.

2. The whole thing is so old the boot rotted apart on its own, and your old-ass bearing is going to die.

In both cases, it usually makes more sense to just replace the whole shaft because that's cheaper, faster, and easier, and then you won't have to take it apart again next year because some other piece of it wore out.

So if you're going to take the trouble to replace just the boot, then you might as well also take the trouble to replace or at least clean and regrease the bearing while you're at it. And you can also examine it to see if it's still in good condition or whether you should just exchange it for a whole new axle instead.

Your first time is a roll of the dice but probably will look like it was somebody's first time. Sometimes you get lucky and it looks great.

But rocker panels get all dirty and busted anyway during normal use, and usually not difficult or expensive to replace, so maybe the real answer is that it's a good place to try your hand and if the result looks like hell you can just toss it and nobody will know your shame.

How do you know if both your springs and struts are worn out? I know something is wrong because it feels like it has no shocks at all, I can feel every wave and every pebble in the road and can't put too much weight (>~300lbs) in the back or it will bottom out and the tire will rub.

Funnily enough, the ride height is very high, maybe higher than stock. Probably 4 or 5 inches between the tire and the wheel arch in the ear and 3 to 4 inches in the front.

Car is is300 with 108k miles and has tokico blue struts and some unknown springs, maybe factory? Pic related is rear.

Side view for ride height view.

So you mean have an 80's SBF or god forbid a crossfire SBC.

Maybe you should enlighten as to what engine is exactly is?

Sometimes its better have them popped out, bondo should be the last option.

DESU Carfax and similar sites can have wrong information, since they're largely dependent on the DMV properly putting the info in.

Odometer readings are less important than overall condition of the car passed a decade of lifespan though.

Springs are nothing but a special grade of steel bent around into a spiral. When they're broken you can often see that it's, well, broken, and often it will make boingy noises like, well, a big spring because now a big spring is shifting and knocking and boinging around. If it breaks enough one corner of your car might sag because there isn't a spring holding it up against the force of gravity anymore.

Springs are usually not the problem, but if you think it's bottoming out when it should not then that's be a good thing to look at. It's possible that there's some other part of the suspension that's bent or broken or coming apart instead, but shock absorbers really should not make a difference to ride height - they're mainly there to help keep the car from bouncing around too much.

Since you're dealing with aftermarket suspension you might want to have somebody look at it to see if there's something obviously wrong or there's an adjustment thats broken or whatever else. Feeling every pebble could be a matter of this suspension not being designed around a nice ride, or being busted, or because you have a different issue like your bushings are all worn and beaten or have been replaced with harder aftermarket bushings - again something that needs somebody to poke around and look at.

>I can feel every wave and every pebble in the road

>can't put too much weight (>~300lbs)

Sounds like they're working as intended. You can go stiffer and have more solid rebound in the shocks but you may regret it depending on the condition of the roads you live near.

Are you saying springs don't wear out and only instead break? I feel like these have to be stock springs, I can't imagine the previous owner wouldn't buy lowering springs and the ride height is super high. Is there any way to tell the brand of a spring?

No I literally can't bring more than 1 person in the back of my car or the rear tire will rub on the fender.

I assume the struts are blown because there is too much dampening and the springs are the only thing doing anything? I was going to go ahead and buy new struts springs and sways but I wanted to make sure the tokico blue struts are toast.

Correct. Springs rarely wear out. It's just a piece of metal designed to never wear out and just keep springing back in to shape. They pretty much only ever break.

So if it's not just broken (and it could be) then you'd look at everything else in the suspension first. If it's aftermarket I guess you could see what's popular for the vehicle and see if it looks like any of those, or find a car forum where people might recognize it etc. What you're saying about the ride height makes it sound like you don't have stock suspension or something is just really obviously visually broken under there.

How much will wider tyres effect my MPG? My Suzuki Swift only gets about 40mpg when it should be about 50 and i'm not sure if it's because of the aftermarket tyres which are something like 195 width when the stock are only 175.

I have no idea what the typical numbers are like, but I'm pretty sure it's nowhere near dropping from 50 to 40 for width increase that's barely noticeable.

Tweaking tire width slightly is more like looking for that extra percent or few percent or whatever it might be to meet EPA regulations or to brag on hypermiling forums.

Why do I get really worked up about routine maintenance for the first time? First oil/filter change took be like 5 hours, now it takes me thirty minutes.

I'm about to do my spark plugs and Ive been planning for fucking weeks because I've been so god damn nervous

Fear of the unknown? I don't know. I went to go swap my exhaust out a few months back, which for me is about as hard as cleaning the dishes, and about 30 minutes in I started turning into a wreck just because it had been so long since I picked up a wrench that I'd forgotten exactly every tool and trick I'd need to do it in 10 minutes.

And then I had to go down a couple of shots because it felt like all the neighbors were watching my incompetence :(

unless it's a transverse V6 I wouldn't worry
just remember to do them cold
i just did a plug change yesterday in less than 20 minutes on a unknown to me I4 engine
and the only hiccups
were my plug socket stayed on plug #3
>just used a different extension with a better ball bearing
and the rubber bit came off on the plug for number four
>needle nose pliers
try to find a video of someone doing plugs on youtube if you're still nervous
also wobble extensions are amazing
t. tranverse v6 owner

>spark plugs
>wobble extensions
+1

Wish I'd known about those earlier. Never know when that's the one thing in your tool box that will let you get at something, or get at something quick and eay without stripping the car halfway down to the heater core.

>buy insurance for a month
ya
have u checked the u-joints?

If I had to choose between a 2011 and 2005 Mazda3, which would be the better choice for say: hooning, wrenching, less repairs, more fun to drive?

>coolant level under the "Low" level when car is cold
>when the car is warm, it goes up to "Full"

so do I need more coolant or am I good?

If you're between the two levels all the time you're just right. Same like with checking your oil.

It's more a fear of not getting everything exactly perfect with tolerance levels more accurate than fucking NASA

Manual should state wether to check when cold or hot

It's 90s Holden 304. I don't think it's really relevant to discussion of ignition systems tho

youtu.be/DwUUJ1X-LvE?t=57s
what causes this raspy noise when you let off the gas of straight-piped cars? Is it due to thin metal tubing?

It's due to being able to hear it. A lot of that is often lost trying to get through the honeycomb of catalyst in the catalytic converter, and then there's everything else in the exhaust that helps muffle higher frequencies.

As for the noise itself I've always been kind of curious about a complete explanation but never bothered to find one. But I suspect a strong component here is that when the engine is under power, it's pushing air out of the exhaust valves any time that they are open, even if the air in the exhaust pipe vibrates back and forth due to the succession of pressure waves.

Whereas when the throttle is closed and the engine is just sucking in basically a vacuum, when the exhaust valves open, first the vacuum in the cylinder sucks in through the valve and then as the piston moves to the top what got sucked in gets pushed back out, thus causing more popping back and forth through the valve, I would assume at supersonic speeds (causing sonic booms once in each direction). I something somewhat like that.

I don't know if that's what it is, but I haven't really thought about it further. Good question for some wise old engine builder.

its supposed to be at the full when cold

youtube.com/watch?v=PM5aucgn6H0
It must have something to do with valves because I can't find a single naturally aspirated rotary that makes the raspy noise on let-off

I really need help picking out a car, I live in upstate New York so I get shitty winters for a few months so I was thinking of getting an AWD car
But really my only choices for that are like a Subaru Outback, but I don't like wagons, a Chrysler 200 which I don't want,
Or like a BMW 328i or something like that but I'm scared of shit breaking for no reason on it even if I take care of it
My work is 30 minutes away so I'll be driving at least 5+ hours a week just for work

My wife has a Civic so I don't want another one
So it's either something like the 328i for the AWD or a slightly bigger car like the Accord or Mazda6 or something

What do you guys think? I'll be spending Like 16,000 or less.
There's a 2011 328i with only 38k miles for $14k I was seriously considering but it has the weird old man interior that I'm not a big fan of

I know a bunch of people in and around upstate that love what subarus do in the snow. They do come in sedan versions, although I'm not up on which years and versions you might like. My old one went all over upstate and new england and through ITS FUCKING HAPPENING THE INTERSTATES ARE ALL BACKED UP PEOPLE ARE ALL DYING snow storms without a care in the world.

I've never tried the BMW version of AWD but opinions seem to vary between it being kind of a tack-on and it really just working well for what it is. I have a cousin with one and he thinks is great, but I don't think he has much other than 4x4 trucks to compare it to.

Decent AWD certainly is a load off the mind if you just have to do a lot of driving and you know don't have the option of waiting for the best weather. If you jump on the BMW, somebody else already farted in it anyway, don't forget it's still a car that's meant to be used and don't be afraid of anything more than what maintenance might or might not cost.

Personally in that condition I would look elsewhere.

My wife works at night so I thought it'd be nice for her too if she had an AWD car for the winter as well, I'll look into the sedan versions of those Subaru's as well though. If I don't find anything I might just go test drive that BMW this weekend if it's still available, haven't seen one with that low of mileage for a good price since I've been looking

when someone says "I have a 3-inch exhaust pipe" Do they mean they have a 3 inch pipe or a 3 inch tube?

It means he just got pounded by his unimpressive bf.

in a rotary engine (with a single centrally mounted plug) the spark plug should fire just before the Apex seal passes over the spark plug correct?

...

Looking at getting a used car from ford, 2015+ Narrowed to three models, focus, fusion, and fiesta (all will be manual bc I know about the auto tranny issues). What do you guys suggest?

The IGNITION computer FIRES the coil.
No you cannot simply delete it, if you want to run without an external ignition module you'll need to get an HEI distributor.

If your v8 is American it should be e z p z to find one that fits.
If it's Euro may God have mercy on your soul.

I ain't a rotard, but that would seem too advanced to me.
The piston engine equivalent of that would be to fire so early that you tried to push the piston down before it came up, making it try to spin backwards.

The piston version would be like you fire the plug right before the intake stroke.

It's kind of a trick question though. Depending on how you look at it, you could say it's like firing at the last moment before the exhaust valves open, or at the last moment before the intake valves open. There isn't really a direct correlation.

Well the flame front would be pushing the rotor backwards in my mind

Well you would have an intake charge in what counts as the chamber coming through, and then you'd wait until just before the next chamber full of intake charge is ready to be exposed to the spark plug before igniting it.

But it still wouldn't be exposed to either valve so as to have lost compression.

So maybe you could just say it's the most retarded thing possible.

But you're right, it is so retarded that the flame front would push the rotor backward before it made it over to the front side, if it even got there before being tossed out the exhaust port.

It's just really, really retarded.

17 inch wheels or 16 inch wheels with slightly thicker tires?

It's the US market, you think I can convert that from squid to USD and sell it at that price or knock off a couple hundred?

Stupid questions regarding using the clutch.
1) When downshifting multiple gears should you re-engage the clutch between each gear or just keep it the pedal depressed?
2) Should you let the clutch completely out before getting on the gas?

You're thinking of ignition systems with multiple coil packs. Mine has a single ignition coil that runs constantly and the distributor handles the spark timing.