QTDDTOT

what does a bad fuel pump feel like

2000 Ford ranger 2.5L MT
I drove with low gas about 2 weeks ago, and then drove 200miles, parked for a week, drove 200miles back, drove around town for a day and right before hopping on the freeway I feel my truck sputter, I pull over and it won't start back up.
I turn the key and the engine tries to start but just sputters and won't start
is this clearly a bad fuel pump?

I do recall my truck making a weird low humming noise when I stood outside my truck before the 200mile ride back home

id say they are pretty comfy, back seats are useless as usual but the passenger seat has miles of leg room and ive never had a problem driving in mine for hours on end.

how tall are you? i'm 6'2 looking at getting one.

also is the 2007 Premium edition good?

Not him but I'm 6'3 and just fit in a fox-chassis mustang. I assume the S197 is a little bigger.

you have to be 18 or older to post here

this is a common problem
my moms 2001 2.3l ragnar went through two pumps in 8 years
>first one was still under warranty
>died after getting off freeway after long trip
before replacing there's a pump cutoff reset button, hers was in the passengers side footwell
ranger-forums.com/general-technical-electrical-18/fuel-pump-shut-off-switch-111031/
try hitting that button or multimetering the switch and maybe you'll get lucky

Will the microfiber rag that I bought from a $2 shop be any good for polishing my car? When I put it against my skin it kinda feels like velcro, but the other microfiber stuff I have touched felt similar so I am not sure if this is just how microfiber feels.

Or should i just go down to a proper car shop (like Sprint Autoparts/SuperCheap Auto) and buy one from them?

Been hopping a lot of sidewalks and now I have a terrible fucking misfire, like almost impossible to get anywhere sort of misfire, that wasn't so bad but now it's continually gotten worse. Getting it checked later this week, and maybe it isn't related to driving off sidewalks, but does anyone have any ideas? OBD 1 and completely free of codes btw

Also already made sure all my spark plug wires are seated both on the dizzy and the plugs. Tbf seems like it got worse after that but probably just coincidence.

Recently got a meguiars da for a drill and a generic buffer and have never used either. Are these basically the same thing? Getting my car products in order and got some griots stuff on clearance, is it any good or stick to meguiars?

When wiring a car stereo should I run it straight from the battery-switch-radio or battery-switchedrelay-radio? What's the reason for this?

Same question for a cb or inverter?

Those engines are reliable theyre like the rangers v6 i think or the f150 before ford turned trucks into obnoxiously huge shit

I also want to make sure it has room for my wifes black bull when the fuck in the car

I hope the leather tastes good when im eating the black bulls cum and my GFs vaginial fluids lol

I got a 2006 v6 auto, bought it cause it was cheap with super low miles. Pretty decent DD but I'm moving on to a truck now. Oh and if the roads super hot you'll drift ez pz

Fuck yeah, Mustang thread!

I drive a black 05', V6 auto. Great fucking car, considering that it's stock, and I've had it around a decade now. Anybody who says you can't drift in an autocar is lying, even if it doesn't come highly recommended by Takumi's Drift Experts™.

Incidentally, I just beat a decent sleeper in a race the other day. It was a real thrill. The guy went from driving like a total grandpa to a pissed-off demon once I passed him, and we raced for a good couple of minutes or so before I took his lane and sealed it.

Woke u to this, LHD drivers side has been damp for weeks.

What do?

What would cause a car needing the gas pedal pressed whenever it starts? It will just endlessly crank if I don’t feather the throttle. After that though it runs and drives completely fine. If I prime the fuel pump like 10 times in a row it’ll also start without needing the throttle though

Heater core. RIP 12 hours of interior disassembly.

Moved from NY to CT for a new job a few months ago and I see something here at least one a day that I've never seen before in NY. When someone comes up to a red light they'll put about half a car length between them and the car in front of them and inch up bit by bit through the duration of the light. At first I figured it was a thing you could do with an old car in cold weather to keep the car from stalling (I remember my brother's first car would stall out if it idled too long near the end), but people were doing it in warm weather with new cars, so is there some other reason or are people just retarded?

Have a 1988 Supra. The front brakes were locking up to the point where tires were smoking. I don't have a garage, tools, nothing where I am so I had to take it in to a shop. They replaced the rotors and break pads (there was nothing, completely worn down in the back). A week later the brakes lock up completely again, I take it to the same place. They say they can't do anything there (bullshit). I have to get it towed to another place (only 4 miles away, but I couldn't drive it). The other place replaced the brake hoses and calipers. I talked to my dad and he's said it's probably the master cylinder, which I thought because I helped him do that job on his silverado before. Before getting both of these jobs done, I asked if they thought it was the master cylinder, they said no.

After all this, it was driving fine. I let it sit for a day I started it this morning, and after driving for 20 minutes they completely locked up again.

I've already poured 800~900 dollars into this thing. I don't know whether to call this place back (they quoted around 320 for a master cylinder job if that's what it came down to). I kind of just want to drive it off a cliff and find some semi-new car at this point, I know I'm going to have to sooner or later.

Not really looking for advice, I just want to bitch and feel stupid

So, I need to take off the strut tower brace to get at my power steering reservoir. Are these boots captive/welded on to the sheet metal or are they down inside the wheel well?

Bolts***

Are there people out there, who converse their "high/sport trim" car to look like the base model just to create the ultimate sleeper car?

For example changing all the bumpers and putting on 16 inch wheels on an e39 m5, just to make it look like any boring 525?

Looks like you can remove them I may be talking out my ass

I had to replace the rear main seal in my shitbox, and when I was finishing installing the transmission, I had noticed the ground wire from the battery cable was shot. So I fixed that and when I went to hook the battery up, the the negative battery cable would spark a lot on contact, as well as the ground I had fixed. It didnt seem like it was just a short spark, the sparks would fly as long as it was held down.
What could be causing this? Did I fuck something up? I dont have much experience with car electric systems outside replacing batteries.

My cars altenator makes 160amps and the battery has 735 cranking amps can I draw 60 amps from the car?

Continuously? Depends what other loads are on the car to eat up the rest of that 160A from your alternator. It doesn't sound unreasonable though.

The battery is just there to provide more amps than the alternator can keep up with until the battery starts to run down.

Cold cranking amps isn't a very useful stat unless you're just trying to yank 700 amps out of it for a few seconds once in a while or something similar to what a starter motor would do.

Any chance of a video? A quick spark is normal, but it shouldn't keep sparking.

Are you talking about one of the wires that connects to your starter motor?

For a sound system so it won't constantly be drawing 60 amps but it can draw up to 60 amps.

If you're going to be doing non-stop wub-wub-wub or something, spec it out for 60A continuous just to be safe. Otherwise as a home audio guy I'd say go with an RMS approximation and call it 43A continuous. In reality unless you have it all the way up all the time you wouldn't even need to ask that much continuous from the alternator, but I'm a fan of being generous when it comes to power supply.

I honestly don't know what else is going to be drawing from the alternator, but there should already be a fuse for the radio, so you can subtract that from 43. And then usually there's room for maybe 10A to 15A from the cigarette lighter socket. And you could push a little beyond that since you won't be turning on every little thing possible all the time. So my guess is that you're probably ballpark fine.

Thank you user

Who writes the best repair/maintenance manuals for cars and what cars should the owner purchase such a manual for?

>what is catalog?

If the headlights dim each time it thumps, you're taking from the battery. Have fun :D Honestly unless your alternator is a cheap piece of shit you shouldn't hurt anything unless short of trying to be mr. pro car audio guy with a SYSTEM in his trunk.

If you have an electric coolant fan that probably yanks a buttload of current. But it doesn't run all the time, so you can use that current instead for listening pleasure.

Main things I am worried about are headlights, high beams, and tail lights at night also forgot about the cooling fan. Don't really use AC or anything else. I did get a remote so I can turn my sub down if I want or need to.

If you have halogen headlights, they're a great way to check battery health since it's easy to either see them pulse, and easy to see that your battery is starting to get run down if you're rolling around dim.

That's how I noticed one time when half the rectifier section on my alternator went out. It was enough to start and run normal, but once the headlights went on for very long
>hmmm
>aren't these looking dimmer than when I started?
Sure enough the next start kind of chugged because the alternator was still good enough to run the car, but not quite enough to keep the battery topped up. Glad I caught it early.

Hey Veeky Forums, i dont know anything about manual trans and im going to help my dad convert his 4 speed to a 5 speed with OD. I want to look through the junkyards since they seem to be a common trans in a wife range of vehicles. What should i look for to know its a good trans. Also what is high mileage wise

Anyone

Would worn out brake hardware cause thudding braking?

Like you mean it goes thud-thud-thud-thud when you step on the brakes? And it depends on how fast the vehicle is going? And you can probably feel it in your foot?

If so, that's probably a warped and/or hot-spotted brake rotor. Not unusual. Could be something else, too, like a tire worn funny or a bent wheel or something else in the suspension. People who work on cars can usually pick out obvious and common things like that if you give them a chance to try it.

I have no reverse lights in my Focus it's manual but is it a switch because both don't come on.

what does an rx7 sound like with an unequal length exhaust header?

I have no TPMS transmitters on my car it's has TPMS sensors but the transmitters are in my living room because I have a different set of wheels on.

Bump

These are actually pretty reliable cars. Interior is a bit shoddy, but they run well and don't have a lot of electrical gremlins. The price actually isn't bad for one with 59k on it

Fucken kek

it's a retarded city thing

chiltons
haynes is all right
they are owned by same company

Will I die if I get Achilles tires? I just want to replace my worn as fuck tires with something new to drive around on a bit longer before I put my car up for sale.

I have a work truck with over 200,000 miles. Lately its started to drop out of gear while driving for a fraction of a second then will bang back into gear. will changing the fluid and filter fix this or should I just ride it till it dies and get a new one? I'm 95% sure it's still on the original fluid and filter it left the factory with.
to be clear, I'm not going to get it flush at a shop rather just do a drain and fill in my garage

Dude, that model mustang was my first ever mustang and they are a fucking tank. They just do not die. I beat the shit out of mine for 4 years, and I mean I gave it the beans. I drift corners all the time (yup, that v6 can drift like a mofo on dry road) I would clutch drop it all the time, and drove it in the winters without issue. The only reason I got rid of mine was because I sold it to get a V8 (which I also recommend if you have the money). PLUS, everybody likes mustangs. Even the people who hate them still like them deep down because 'murica! I love getting compliments from old timers who just gotta tell "hey I used to have a mustang ya know!" It's an amazing car and you should def buy one. Pic related my V8

I have literally never seen a women drive a 'stang. Is this seriously a meme?

>dating this gril
>first gril I've ever dated
>she really likes me
anyway
>she only has a permit and no car
best option for:
>Safe
>Reliable
>FUEL EFFICIENT
(because gas is $3.20 a gallon here in commiefornia)
>Manual
(highly preferred but not an absolute necessity)
I'm ball-parking her budget to be around $1-4 Grand

>pic semi-related

my middle school choir teacher (woman) had a v6 mustang of that model
it's totally a girl car imo

I've got this 280z in >pic related but I need the bumpers. Can I put 240 bumpers on it? I really don't want the retarded safety bumpers that 280s have.

Cheap microfiber leaves little bits and pieces all over everything it touches. Don't buy shitty wal mart ones.
I ordered some waffleweave and never went back.
For wax I still use the cloth that came with the product.
Make sure you don't machine wash them with fabric softener.

What should I include in my car kit?
So far I have:

>First aid kit
>Quik-clot
>Various cleaning supplies
>4-way wrench
>Hydraulic & scissor jack
>Some bungee cords
>2-gal distilled water
>Jumper cables
>Air compressor
>Gloves
>Knee pads
>Mat
>Crescent wrench
>Fix-a-flat
>Flashlight
>Knife
>Hand warmers
>Wool blanket
>Spare tire
>Come along
>Tire chains
>De-icer
>Ice scraper / brush
>Glow sticks

Someone in the shop had done that today with a GTP.

>lighters in ziploc bags
>paracord
>atlas
>screw driver (esp one with 30 different things
on the end for that one time you need to get at that one stupid fastener)
>similarly a small socket set or at least a few wrenches in common sizes for what you might need, e.g. battery
>cleaning rags and/or paper towels in ziploc bags
>shopping bags to bag up stuff / waste
>a few nice 50gal 3mil contractor bags or similar for whatever
Bonus if your cleaning supplies include alcohol that you can light on fire or similar

Ratchet straps make life easy if you don't want to bother with how to tie and knot cord and toe rope and whatever else.

Why do I feels like less of a man when contemplating at V6 over a V8

Seems like my oil cooler lines are leaking on my ss, they are the crimped on rubber to hard line type lines and the failure point is the crimped area.

I have multiple routes going to fix it going forward, replace the lines or remove the lines and replace the oil filter adapter where the cooler lines come from with a adapter. Is it worth deleting or should I just replace them as they go bad.

Because you know you just want the V8. I would, to.

Cologne V6 is a disappointing piece of shit. Not overly reliable, not horrible either. Typical fordshit maintenance, she will probably spend $500-1000 on repairs within a year or two.

V6 convertible automatic is a girls' car

would it be worth it to buy a premium oil filter on a stock car? or just keep using the cheap filters. help me

Not really. You're not racing or something like that. You can stay away from like the meme cardboard bottom shelf Frams or whatever and nobody is going to make fun of you for paying $.30 more for the bottom shelf Purulator that isn't made of cardboard.

But really they pretty much just get the job done for normie use and if you're not a filter autist who knows that brand X is better than brand Y then you definitely should not pay for SUPERFILTER PLATINUM WITH 5X PROTECTION or whatever.

thanks mate

for the MR2, can the 5SFE engine mate up to the AW11's transmission (C50, etc.) without modification? or would a adapter plate need to be used?

I took my yota 4runner in for new tires and the guy there told me my caster and camber had broke off the body. He said he couldnt give me an estimate for it right then. How much is this going to cost me?

Unless this is some kind of obscure insider terminology I've never heard about, or this guy is using weird metaphors, you can "break off" caster and camber.
Caster and camber are angles, not parts, or does "broke off" mean they are just misaligned and need to be adjusted?

What the fuck is going on?

I'm not sure he wrote it down but I can't read his chicken scratch hand writing. He said something needs to be welded back on the body. He also took this picture.

Eh I'm not familiar with that car so I can't see anything obviously wrong.
Maybe he is talking about that piece of metal behind the washer of the arm bolt? It looks like the only thing that could seem out of place, but I don't know for sure.
If there was something so horribly wrong that needed to be welded back to the body, I guess you would have noticed when driving?

That description of the problem sounds sketchy as fuck

Maybe Ill just take it too a different place and see if they say anything. He told me this right after he tried to sell me on a 700 dollar full service so he might have been trying to get sheckles out of me. I just dont want to have my tires eaten up.

I mean you can go to another shop and ask for an alignment, which is cheap and gives you a second and more accurate opinion on your suspension geometry.

But as I said, if there is something suspension-related that is loose and needs to be fucking welded back, I think you would definitely notice when driving.
Camber and caster aren't a thing that you can break off and lose, they are not physical components, that's why that description sounds sketchy and they are probably trying to scam you for problems that don't exist.

The only thing that looks kinda sorta maybe out of place is that thing behind the washer, but I wait for someone experienced in 4runners before drawing conclusions.

Have you tried asking in the Toyota general or the off-road general?

I just went over there and posted. But thanks for the help. It handles pretty well as far as I can tell.

When in doubt, ask a second shop. Don't tell them about what the first shop said (they may realise you don't know better and just charge you for the same useless job if they really want to be dishonest), just tell them you want to know if everything looks right and maybe get an alignment.

amazon.co.uk/dp/B004JASFYU/

Is this oil good for my car?
I have an 80's volvo and I'm lost on which engine oil to buy, it's a B19 engine

Ask on a Saab forum.
I have a 9-5 but it's a totally different vehicle, can't really comment on the 900.
Old ass cars with a distributor can get the spark timing messed up by hitting bumps and shit. I had an old Ford I had to set the spark timing like once a week or it would barely run. Easy as hell to fix.
Usually I get power from the fuse box. Just stick your power wire in with something that is only on when ignition is on. If you have to run an amp you'll want to go straight to the battery, and use a fusable link close to the battery. I think with a radio or CB I wouldn't bother with a relay.
I'm guessing it's got a carb? That's just how the choke works. Does it idle at ~700? If it's lower than that you can turn the idle screw to raise it a bit, will help with starting.

Bruh, are you sure you're not grounding the positive cable?

It’s probably the switch on the transmission. Easy fix and $10 part.

In a non-running car I don't know any way to check it. I guess make sure the shifter moves.
Mileage isn't real important with a manual except the synchros will be more worn. You have no way of knowing when it was last serviced though. Clutches need to be replaced about every 50k to 150k miles, that's a pretty wide range so you can't tell by looking at the odometer if it needs a new clutch.

Sounds like Wiley when he's getting pegged by your mum

I think you're fucked either way man. Make sure it isn't low on fluid though.

if I have an NA car with a ~9.0 compression ratio, and the manual says to use 91 or higher octane fuel, will I actually get better performance or fuel economy from 95 octane fuel?

>Usually I get power from the fuse box. Just stick your power wire in with something that is only on when ignition is on. If you have to run an amp you'll want to go straight to the battery, and use a fusable link close to the battery. I think with a radio or CB I wouldn't bother with a relay.
Thank you for an answer. No fuse box, vehicle is a 55. Power will run from a receptacle in the back that is always connected to the battery, but the radio box will not always be plugged in. The box will also have a small inverter inside, can I put he fusable links in the box? I'd like to mount everything inside the box if possible to keep and modern tech off the vehicle itself. Power lines will be run to the empty prongs on the receptacle in the back.

Well, as far as I can see, there's not much to be had for that little monis that's not a death bucket from (at least) the early 90s

No, the only thing you may benefit from is added chemicals and detergents (if any) in the better gasoline, but you won't see any performance gain.
Your engine can't physically detect higher octanes than the ones it was designed to run with, it can only detect lower, to save itself from damage.

I just got a BMW and I can't help but speed and pass people. How do I stop from becoming the prototypical BMW asshole driver?

>Power will run from a receptacle in the back that is always connected to the battery
OK then that power cable should have a fuse on it. Closer to the battery is best. A fusible link is barely visible. Pic related is a fuse I put on my truck for aux power (it's not a fusible link though). It's about a foot from the battery.
>The box will also have a small inverter inside, can I put he fusable links in the box?
Yeah I'd have another fuse in line for everything you are powering: radio, CB etc. You can also put in an on/off switch. Don't bother with a relay unless you want to mount your on/off switch up on your dash or somewhere else further away. That's really what a relay is for, so you don't have high amperage wires running all over the vehicle just for a switch.

If that little battery is staying in your "receptacle" you could run your radio's constant power (yellow wire) to it to keep your clock and presets saved when you flip your main power off. The little battery can be connected to your main car battery to keep it charged

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