Hey Veeky Forums. I wonder if anyone can educate me...

hey Veeky Forums. I wonder if anyone can educate me... So I own a piece of shit 2014 Renault Clio and the stock speakers in the back have blown, having searched out the head unit online the peak power output per channel is 47watts, no RMS power is given. Having done a bit of research I settled for a set of Edge, speakers from my local auto store, that has an RMS of 50 watts and 100 watts peak. Having removed the shitty cardboard cone stock ones I wired these in only find that they sound much worse are quieter and distort faster than the stock ones in the front that are the same size and cheap cardboard construction. What have I done wrong? What's needed, lower RMS speakers? More powerful speakers? Less powerful speakers? The ohm's are both 4ohm from the speaker and head unit.

If the peak wattage is only 100w they are bad.

Does that matter considering that the head unit is only capable of kicking out a peak wattage of 47? If so, why?

Yes. Also get a new head unit.

Why? And the head unit is built into a media navigation touch screen system thing so it's a complete pain to replace. Also just replacing the head unit doesn't answer why what are supposed to be 'superior speakers' sound worse than the stock ones.

Some weird Frenchness I came across, the speakers are riveted onto the rear doors, these on the left door and...

They can handle the wattage your head unit, but if the max wattage is only 100w, they are probably low quality speakers. You can get some good speakers pretty cheap. I have Pioneer A series and they sound really good, and they werent that expensive. Also 100w is what they can handle max for a few seconds. That is different than nominal wattage. My speakers can handle 100w max but nominal wattage is 60w.

these on the other, totally different size and style. Can't fathom what the situation would have been that lead this to occur.

Nvm. I misread what you said about how much wattage it is per channel.

bump preferably someone that has a clue.

If you get cheap speakers they will sound bad.

Were you dropped on your head as a child? The speakers I brought were better than the stock ones in design, material and construction yet sounded worse. Therefore it must be an issue with the wattage of some kind, looking for advice on what I should be looking for.

Your head unit doesn't have enough power to push clean sound without clipping. The deck has, most likely, has an RMS power of 20 - 23 watts per channel. Change out your front speakers too, or use the fader to put more power to the rear speakers. If you want high power to your speakers, you will have to run a separate amplifier. Sticking with a stock head unit means there will be a shit ton of other stuff to deal with.

These look the same.

This
And you probably bought cheap-ish replacements. More importantly, you most likely have no crossover which makes more difference than anything else mentioned in the thread.

I'd be willing to bet if he put an after-market deck in, it would be a night and day difference, regardless of speakers.

Check the rivets.

The speaker has been taken out before.

Makes sense thank you. So 'get better (more powerful) speakers wouldn't be the fix then!

I wouldn't get anything rated (power) higher than what you got from the auto store. Replacing the front speakers, in addition, will help too.

What you could do is use the fader and set the stereo to play on the rears only, then see if it truly sounds worse with the new speakers or if it only sounds shitty with the new (back) and old (front) speakers together.

I did try that and they distort much faster and with no bass, I have to have the EQ set to -5 bass or it distorts terribly at even only half volume!

Well, it may be the speakers, but I would doubt it unless defective. I would question how the original speakers blew, which would lead me back to the head unit being bad. Distortion that bad would blow any speakers. You'd have to try a different set to see if there is improvement. You could always pull the fronts and try them on the back if you didn't want to scrounge up another set just to test.

>blowing out the speakers
turn down your music nigger.

Wouldn't surprise me, never buy a french car, they really are shit! Will give that a try thanks.

Literally only usually play the radio at 13 volume out of 37

>searched out the head unit online

for reference eres mine
Output Power, DIN 45324 at 4 ohm (W)
4 x 27
Max. Output Power, 1 kHz at 4 ohm (W)
4 x 52

>I settled for a set of Edge, speakers
they look like an old Sony shape

>RMS of 50 watts and 100 watts peak
from all the bs online
I made up my mind like this

take speaker RMS
times two then add or subtract 20% then that number can be the peak rms of your amp

like so
Alpine SXE-1025-S
25 rms
40 min
60 max

Sony XS-GTF-1027
30 rms
48 min
72 max

alt formula
10% under
5% over

>shitty cardboard cone stock ones
ayee mang
Matsushita made some really good cardboard speakers
look for embossed kinds

>wired these in only find that they sound much worse are quieter and distort faster
main problem with cheep plastic speakers is that the side walls do not move very freely
and the modern cone material does not resonate or wobble much
on any speaker equalisation or crossover can be used to avoid frequencies a speaker does not like

Get subwoofers and a new head unit, and turn on crossover.

>What have I done wrong?
Ohms are not the only thing. Speakers have different efficiency rates too. That's why if you go to major official authorized speaker sellers, they will recommend some to you and not recommend some to you even though those non-recommended ones are more expensive. Typically one solution is to change all the speakers to make sure they all match efficiency levels.

I suggest you visit various major online car speaker sellers like Crutchfield and see what speakers they recommend for your car. By crosschecking several different vendors, you can develop your own list of speakers and then shop for lowest price from other sources once you have specific model numbers. Crutchfield doesn't just blindly use the manufacturer's screwhole template, but takes speakers out into the field to test fit them into various car models. That helps make sure the speaker can also fit into the existing cavity.

However, if you have a separate amplifier adjustment for each speaker, then of course many more speaker choices are possible.