Truck general

Lets talk trucks here.
Post your trucks. Ask each other questions, give compliments or fanboy over your brand.
Have you been working on anything recently? Any plans?

I'll start, is their a particular year to avoid with a Ford Ranger? Is the Ranger still worth it, or is there a better alternative mini truck.

Other urls found in this thread:

nh.craigslist.org/cto/6486676149.html
dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/d/1947-ford-pickup-tow-truck/6471924517.html
nh.craigslist.org/search/cto?query=ranger -plow -farm -yard&hasPic=1&bundleDuplicates=1&min_price=100&max_price=3000&auto_title_status=1&auto_title_status=6
nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/1999-ford-ranger/6486335027.html
nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/2002-ford-ranger-xlt/6473850687.html
nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/09-2wd-ranger-cap-ladder-rack/6466344590.html
nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/96-ford-ranger-40l-4x4-many/6481401694.html
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

I've got multiple trucks. I recently picked up this rusty 1990 xlt. 2.9 5 speed. It's comfy as fuck and runs like a sewing machine.

Pretty cool, that's actually the general year that I'm interested in. 89-92.
How much did you pay? Any issues, besides the rust? And what other cool stuff do you have?

thank mr skeltal

...

96 f150 4.9l 5speed.

Recent work: plugs wires rotor cap and filters. Need to redo the sagging headliner next.

>doesn't even have 3 axles
Get your soccer mom cars out of here. Can any of these pieces of shit even make 1000lb/ft of torque?

Nice utes.

Europoor here thinking about getting truck.
What do You consider as most good-looking truck?
I like pic related F1 shortbed with this type of front grill.

Depends on personal preference, what's your budget?
What would you like to do with the truck?

I have 3, this 1966 C10, a '77 C10, and an 86 C30

Trying to buy truck, need reliability, manual trans, and mpg. BUT I want to be able to tow a >2000 car on a dolly. That gen ferd with the 6pot has my interest. Would you recommend?

Traded an atv that I paid $1000 for. It has the infamous 2.9 lifter tick, but I think I have that cured after 2 flushes and oil changes. It has 300kms, it has the shitty mitsu 5 speed makes noise in every gear but 4th. But I have a m5od to swap in. It's my dd and gets 23 mpg so i cant complain. Its getting a flat bed in the spring, maybe 4x4 convert someday.

I'm restoring a 79 f150 and building a rat rod 1955 f250, and have a weekend warrior 1991 f150 I beat around on the trails on the weekend

Muh 79

I would, reliable and easy to find a manual one with a 300/6. The 5 speed isn't rated to tow much if at all depending on gearing, but will still easily pull a light car.

Mpg is laughable. Best I've gotten out of a fuelie 300 is 16 mpg. You'll get 10 if your towing if you're lucky

The 55, sitting on twin I beam front from a 2wd dentside, 9inch rear. Don't mind the stupid paint, and it's sitting on the bumpstops in the pic

The 91 in the background, i swapped on the bullnose front clip after smashing the original up on a trail run. It used to be my dd but I changed jobs and the commute is almost an hour so i couldnt afford to drive it at 10 mpg. It's the main reason I got the ranger

My rusty, shitty, Ford piece of shit.

Bought it non-running, got it running, holy fuck its been neglected. Basically Im replacing everything except the wiring harness and the engine.

Anybody know about driveshaft length, driveshaft angle and pinion angle?

Im taking off the retarded 4 inch lift, might get a 1.5" or 2" lift, or just go back to stock height.

Will I need to replace my driveshaft and U-joints if I only drop the lift to 2 inches?

I'm new to RWD and trucks, so I know very little about the components and their operation.

Avoid the 2.8l carburated Rangers, 1984-88 I believe. I guess I got lucky, my B2 is a 1989, 2.9l fuel injected, with a manual transfer case and manual transmission. I bought it before doing any research about Ranger pickups or mini Broncos, and got very lucky to find out that Ford fixed a number of horrible engine designs and body build issues for the 1989-1991

Bump. Need advice about pinion angle and driveshaft length. Will post more about shitty truck as reward.

What do you need to know about driveline ?

See post above, my Bronco 2 came with a 4 inch lift, I would like to get either a 2" lift, or just return the stock suspension parts.

I have no idea if the previous owner got a longer driveshaft, or changed the pinion angle.

Do I need to get a new shaft when I drop the lift 2 inches? If i keep the current driveshaft, will I be fucked and have horrible chattering gears?

nh.craigslist.org/cto/6486676149.html
My gut says jump on this, I want at truck and go no other transportation. Single digit mpg would be brutal tho.

I plan on getting some work in construction and a motorcycle in the spring though, so maybe it might not be a awful idea.

Drop it and align accordingly. How is it lifted, springs? Blocks? The rear axle likely has shims between the springs and housing to correct for the angle with the lift. Possible it had been lengthened, also possible that it wasn't. Is it a normal 2 joint rear shaft or is it double cardan?

I'm assuming it has radius arm drop brackets in the front with a 4 inch lift, possibly ball joint eccentrics too to correct camber. TTB front ends are a pain to lift, no less of a pain to lower them.

I would put up an ad looking for someone to trade for stock components if they help you swap. Because you're going to need a lot of little things that will nickel and dime you to death

Ranger is an ok truck.

It really loves gas.

That's rusty? Those have been extinct in Alberta for a long time.

The new HD diesels are pushing over 900 from the factory. Even getting an old diesel truck to that level is relatively easy.

Good from afar but far from good. Besides are full of Bondo, needs cab corners and drivers floor repaired. Currently waiting for spring

I'm actually in nb. They're pretty much non existent here too.

>rusty

Frame is 8/10, cab is a 6.5/10, bed is fucked/10

Comfy/10. Where is this?

In the Cascades, near Silverton, WA

Here's muh '90 2.9 5spd. It's a tough little truck I must say. I need to replace the syncros though.

Wetsand and buff those headlights friend.

Looks great
>23mpg
Beats the 16-18 I'm getting in a subaru
Stunning shot

Im not the best person to speak to about mpgs. My truck has 35s and i cant even use 5th gear on the interstate. I average 12.5 mpgs but if you want reliable, you wont get better than a ford 4.9l straight 6. Thing has been awesome.

Axle blocks and an extra leaf spring for the rear, front has the 4" lift brackets, and I guess longer coil springs? Not sure about the piston struts, will I need to replace those as well?

Sorry for the questions, its just hard to find info about going back to stock, most info online is about how to add 18 inches of lift so that girls will know your penis isnt small.

I recently took the bed off so I can put a used flatbed that I got of CL on it. Just have to learn how to weld...

Here's the flatbed. He had it listed for $800, so I traded an AR for it

You'll need all the stock brackets for the front and stock length shocks. Possibly flex hoses for brakes.

I would leave it as is. Maybe ditch the add a leaf, and install a 2 inch lift coil, re align with ball joint eccentrics

Ok, thank you. Once I have the new water pump and spark plugs done, I need to get it smogged and put some new tires on it.

Came with some mis-matched 33"x12.5", theyre fucking shit and about to rip apart, also came with a spare wheel and 20 year old tire that isnt even the same wheel dimensions, let alone tire size.

Reason I want to drop the lift is because Im getting some BFGoodrich A/T K02 30"x9.5"s, its gonna be so fucking goofy with 30 inch tires and the fuckhuge lift. Not to mention the narrower tire track will probably be less stable, and the thing already has steering issues, doesnt need a 4" lift making things worse.

Im not expecting to cross rivers or straddle ruts, I just needed something with better ground clearance than my Honda Accord. I bought the Bronco to go camping with, all the nice, cheap or free, far away-from-normies campgrounds near me require a 30 minute drive on a dirt road that would absolutely ruin any passenger car.

Not worth blowing the rear shocks on my DD just to drink beer and eat mushrooms beside a campfire.

Here's my 24 valve with a 5 speed. I'm pretty damn happy with it. Not going to do any work in it now but in ten years or more when the body is completely trashed I'd like to swap the motor into an old Power Wagon or something similar.

2013 taco, putting a cowcatcher and a roll bar on it when im not broke

Another angle of my shitty POS rustbucket. The first thing I did when I got it was to replace the battery and alternator, and the vacuum lines for emissions, which the previous owners threw away.

Then I ripped out the A.C, and all components related. I found the ONLY Ford non-A.C heater box in the whole junkyard. So much room under the hood now that the AC is gone.

dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/d/1947-ford-pickup-tow-truck/6471924517.html

>tfw budget is too tight to buy and restore this

>tfw love the look of mid 80's Ford and really want a beige/brown, 4 door, bench seat, 5 speed, long bed, 2WD, dually but US Ford diesels have a terrible reputation in Europe.

...

Currently sitting for the last 3 weeks waiting on it's new trans to show up after the rebuilt TH350C lost all forward gears out of nowhere. Going to rip the entire suspension apart, replace all the bushings, do a 4/6 drop, add a bigger front swaybar, add a rear swaybar, finally change the gear oil I've neglected after having the 10 bolt re-geared, re-built and adding a trutrac. Also going to replace the fucking intake gasket that's been leaking oil onto the valve covers, gonna check the rockers and shit while I'm at it, probably clean up the carb and see how it's doing (45,000 miles in ~1.5 years after a new motor and replacing everything under the hood). Probably some other shit I've forgotten about, also have a donor 85 cab/front clip that has some drop kit parts on it, going to eventually swap the cab out on my truck and likely the frame as it's a rust free low mile Texas truck.

Pic of donor truck I scored for $1200. Few dings/dents/holes to fill, and needs one cab corner, but that's it. Frames spotless, has 3" DJM drop spindles, Belltech flip kit and shackles in the rear with new stock leafs, full front clip and core support, bed will be sold off as I'm keeping my fleetside, guy also threw in a completely mint tailgate band for a Chevrolet I'll sell off as well, since mines a GMC.

My 1992 Ford Ranger.

Runs great, has 260k miles on it, only thing I've had to do is switch the alternator out (which I did myself) and get the Master Cylinder replaced (which according to all vehicle history was the original factory one).

Bought it for $1600, 60k miles & 2.5 years ago.
If you have specific questions feel free to ask.

When are you gonna throw a big block in it?

13' F150 w/ 110k. Get about 18 mpg combined. 3.5 v6 with the turbos. Recently did all the fluids, plugs. Looking to a 4” lift with 35s or 6" with 37s. Currentlywanting to regear to 4.56. Wanting to get a ladder rack and diy a roof top tent to leave room in the bed for storage.

Anyone have recommendations for minimalist pre runner esque bumpers? I'd like to increase my angle of approach/departure as much as possible

Would love too, but can't afford it.
Besides that would mean also replacing the transmission, which is not designed for high output.

If I had the money (and a second car to DD in the meantime) I'd love to swap a muscle car v8 in the bed of the pickup and make it MR.

'88 xlt lariat manual with straight six, just bought it.

Mpg?
How's it do in the winter? Any rust?

My 2017. Hope it lasts 20 years.

Just bought a '94 chevy 3500 dually, 454 engine, 4l80e tranny, with 90k miles for 1000$
Did i do good?

Is the bumper bent in the middle or is that just weird distortion?

Is there anything wrong with it? What condition is it in?

If nothing is wrong and the condition is acceptable, then yes $1000 is a great deal.

That'll do pig, that'll do

Is the main difference between a c10 and c30 the suspension set up?

Bought this months back, 2003 silverado
>new fuel pump right before i bought it
>brand new $800 michelins put on a week before i bought it
>150k miles on body
>had a brand new motor put in at 70k miles
>interior mint, old man owned
$6k

Did i do gud? Figure I can get at least 10 years out of her before trading up.

What are some trucks that are likely old enough to be $4k or less and get kinda decent mileage (above single digits city)?

It was used as a snow plow/salt spreader so the cab is rusted to fuck and back, other than that, the frame is solid, the bed is okay, the transmission had a bizarre issue where it wouldn't go into anything but reverse unless you fuck around with the shifter for ~5 minutes, but it would work immaculately once it finally found overdrive; cause was a wire that had gotten crushed because the cab mounts rusted away and it fell on the frame.

ranger tacoma d21 chevy colorado chevy s10

What should the tier list be on priority to look for?
People want $2k for old rusted t-100's with bad engines around here, so toytoa trucks are a non starter.

Get a Frontier or hardbody with the KA24D(E). Seriously. They are great trucks. I put 400k mi on my old hardbody and bought a frontier back when they had the 2.4 KA engine. Fast? NO. Torquey? NO. Reliable? Without question, will never fuck you. Just my 2 cents.

With 260hp and a $50k price tag it sure as fuck better. There's still a lot of electronic shit to break so I dunno. My buddies turd gen is still more solid than the newer generations I've been in.

You did pretty good, if it gets used as a work truck it'll get fucked up real quick, hope its just your DD.

what pre 1975 truck would have the largest aftermarket to turn into a prerunner? is there a best pre 1975 platform for a prerunner?

If you keep it on the street in Wisconsin it won't. Put it in the garage

19 is what I average this time of year.
In the summer I get more like 22 mpg for whatever reason.

It does great in the winter, but we don't get much snow where I live. However the few times I've had to drive in it were okay, but I also put a couple sandbags + my spare tire in the bed to weigh it down.

A lot of the undercarriage is superficially rusty but nothing is actually decayed
EXCEPT
My catalytic converter (which I took off) was pretty much half gone due to rust, so it didn't really do much.

No advice from any truck br/o/s?

nh.craigslist.org/search/cto?query=ranger -plow -farm -yard&hasPic=1&bundleDuplicates=1&min_price=100&max_price=3000&auto_title_status=1&auto_title_status=6
Any of these rangers look promising?
nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/1999-ford-ranger/6486335027.html
nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/2002-ford-ranger-xlt/6473850687.html
nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/09-2wd-ranger-cap-ladder-rack/6466344590.html
nh.craigslist.org/cto/d/96-ford-ranger-40l-4x4-many/6481401694.html

I had a 98 k1500 extended cab with the 5.7 v8. My uncle owned it from 60k miles to 175k miles, so basically 14 years.

They're alright, but my uncle, at 1 point, had to replace the transmission. The 4l60e transmission is apparently a shit piece compared to the God tier 4l80e. That, and my uncle drove it EVERYWHERE and towed shit with it. Other than that, 90's chevy trucks in Iowa are basically the do-all be-all of any truck in this state if you are looking for (debatable) affordability.

My advice for anyone getting a chevy 90s full size: either get a 2500 if you're getting automatic, or get manual transmission for the 1500 series.

Something up to 20k$.
Purpose of truck would be carrying some planks, ride on lawn mover, helping me with building house, nothing special. And keeping it till death, so my children will have it as a vintage car.
So I am thinking about something from '80s, but have no idea about good engine, transmission and so on.

DiY Weld front bumper. Leave the rear alone.

From what I've heard, 96-98 are shit years. I can attest to that, because my 96 gave me a lot of problems compared to my 95. For some reason the brakes on the 96 are just...wonky? It's hard to describe. I'm borrowing 99 now (my favorite by a long shot) and it's like driving a car compared to the 96. 360K miles on the original motor and tranny, great truck.

I think you did good, 150K is a little high but the positives outweigh the rest.

Just go back to stock height. Will you really notice 2 inches of lift? Really?

Any advice on repairing dents on a truck? So far Ive discovered using a hammer and dolly that seems like a simple but time consuming job. Is this type of repair worth doing yourself, or taking it to a shop?

What are some common issues that old rangers have?