Are project mu brakes good? Brembo and Wilwood are just 2mainstream for me, I want them for my Miata

Are project mu brakes good? Brembo and Wilwood are just 2mainstream for me, I want them for my Miata.

Is there any sort of tier list for brake manufacturers? Brembo, Wilwood, APRacing, Alcon, Project Mu, Endless, etc, etc.

Brembo makes a race pad they call project mu. I was super confused when I started hearing about project mu calipers and rotors.

I guess to answer your question... who cares. It's a street car. Brakes don't matter. Get whatever's lightest. You'll get better performance out of a lightweight brake package than the humongous shiny stuff.

why pay 2k for brakes that you won't need on your shit box

>I don't want good brakes because they're mainstream
I hope you wrap your car around a tree for the sake of being a special snowflake

You have to get a love live itasha if you get those brakes

Autoexe

Why the fuck would a brake company name themselves after an anime?

they're not named after this anime directly but they do like itasha

>love live
>anime
reeeeeeee

Not OP, but I'm not a bitch when I drive my car on the streets.

The symbol is Greek, you may refer to it as "mu" or "mew"

What it stands for is the term "coefficient of friction"

What it describes is the last 2 letters in the serial number of all brake pads "aa,bb,cc,dd,ee,ff,gg" what that means is a benchmark for the grade of stopping power or coefficient of friction.

An ff pad indication had more stopping power than an ee serial number.

There is other indications of initial friction, or heat dissipation, or material content. But this information is 100% useless for fags like you guys.

Hate to burst your bubble but most all Japanese manufactured brakes come from bembro or akibono. Zeal, project mu, endless are all for marketing purposes.

Good luck saving for alcons you don't need on a miata that is not fast or heavy enough to need them.

I hear good things about APRacing brake kits if you plan on doing racekar stuff

And for my suggestion.
Assuming your miata is an na or nb miata with stock power.

Hawk dtc 50 pads front and rear to start
STR550 brake fluid
Any 4 stainless steel lines to replace rubber lines
New factory Mazda rotors
Send your calipers into machinest for a cleaning and rebuild, ask for .5mm to 1mm oversized pistions
New slider pins and boots
Front brake ducting with vented backing plates
Abs, if installed bypass and removal, proportional valve removal route into willwood adjustable bias valve
New Mazda brake master cylinder

Possiable for $2700 Or less

Stop like a racecar repeatedly with adjustment capability

You realize that bigger brakes don't always stop harder right? The best thing they do is disperse heat better. The way more important thing is pad compound. An upgraded pad on a stock brake setup in almost always better than an aftermarket brake setup with meh pads.
Also, the track is the only place you should drive ten tenths because when you spin out, you slide into gravel. Do that shit on the road and you go head on into traffic or slide into a tree, either might kill you.

The only reason to upgrade your brakes like that is if you plan to track the car and you're making at least twice the stock power. If you want a big brake kit "jus fo showh" then you should kill yourself.

You should probably just buy some slotted rotors, some street pads (like Hawk or EBC), and do a full flush with DOT 4 brake fluid.
Or do what said, pretty good route.
Just put in some nice new rubber lines because desu people only feel a difference with SS lines because they're replacing super old and stretchy rubber line, new rubber lines would be almost as good.

>2mainstream for me

>what color you want your brakes to be?
>like this, my guy

With a good set of real racing tires, or anything under 140 thread ware the brakes develop alot of heat that sinks into anything touching the rotor. Rims get hot, plastic hub centric rings melt, brake fluid boils, rubber lines start to fatigue with excessive heat, yes even new ones.

Stainless braided lines do not flex, the do not expand or ripple.

The difference is noticeable if you are actually driving well and burning down the brakes. Besides the price point between 2 sets new, is relatively nothing. Maybe $50-$100 tops.

I'm not sure why out of everything I suggested, that is what you decide to counterpoint.

Op prob has a 89 na miata with rusty rear quarters and a leaky head gasket. And prob a failing front crank seal.

It prob has some 13 inch messhies and an eBay exhaust.

Op can't afford a dick in a box, he just wants jdm mad tight whale penis carbon fiber illist hoonigan dakimakura dojinshi parts for his roadster.

I think the mods would like to sniff that

they'll probably want to keep it all to themselves too

Hell yeah!

I just said that about SS lines because so many people do that mod and go "OH MY BRAKE PEDAL FEEL IS SO MUCH BETTER OMFG"

SS lines are absolutely a great modification for anyone who has a track car that is getting serious heat into the system. It's just so many people do it on street cars where they've only upgraded the pads and it's like, new rubber lines would have the same effect.
Also you can get new rubber lines for ~$20 and a set of SS lines are often $150+, at least for my cars anyways.

>People getting super track technical with melting hubs and brake lines

It's a miata, not a Tsukuba time attack god.

>Implying a miata with r compound slicks can't boil fluid or get rim tempatures in the 275 range.

Drive harder kid.

Smaller tracks a spec miata will out drive cars with 4 times the power

I hear what your saying but give the miata credit where it's due, it's a fine racing car be it a little gay.

>not running 600$ brake pads on a mostly stock car so they overheat the 15 year old brake calipers until the seal gives out causing brake fluid to leak everywhere and make a huge fucking mess.

lmao you guys aren't even car enthusiasts are you?

See my other post kidThere's car enthusiasts
Then there's car enthusiasts with money
Then there is filthy rich car enthusiast

I like to try and shoot for the middle
Gotta pay to play and then pay to fix the car when it's burned down at the end of the season