QTDDTOT - Fix it again tony

No thread on this, I was checking the air filter on my mothers 2012 Ford Explorer and found some oil in the air intake system, pic related. I put a red rag on top of what im talking about. Every time I check the filter I always find oil in there, is this normal?

Other urls found in this thread:

memphis.craigslist.org/cto/d/126k-mi-99-toy-tacoma-sr5/6467171435.html
cargur.us/mcs7z
cargur.us/lyH7V
cargur.us/kRpFr
autospeed.com/cms/A_112718/article.html
autospeed.com/cms/A_113270/article.html
autospeed.com/cms/A_113157/article.html
autospeed.com/cms/A_113064/article.html
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

check the pcv valve and hose

what is "positive crankcase ventilation" ?

reposting
what type of clamp tool do i need for the CV boot clamps in pic related?
can I just use pliers?

>oil in air filter hoses

Wow, did you also find an engine in the engine bay?

I have intermittent burning oil clouds following me after a rebuild. Is that normal during the break in period? at first, 100% of starts were followed by a cloud. Now it's about 50/50. 30 miles on the motor since the rebuild.

1996 Toyota Camry V6. Yes I put the effort into rebuilding it.

My FSM says to use a 24C battery but I can't find that anywhere. Am I missing something

Sarcasm aside, another user mentioned to check the PCV valve and hose, is that going to be pic related? Obviously I don’t know enough about cars, but would like to learn.

it'll be a hose that comes out the side of the engine somewhere, and then plugs into the air intake tube - that looks like it could be it

google for some service manual diagrams, sometimes Ford has labeled diagrams that'll show a break-apart of the different components

Does anyone know what might have been inside the center console compartment on my 2000 lincoln navigator that was electronic? There's a bundle of wires not plugged into anything. VHS or DVD player?

All you will need is pliers to pinch down the tabs onto the excess band. After pulling tight, you just fold the excess over itself and pinch it in place

Could easily have been some nigger LED shit, that or if it had rear AC maybe.

You replace the cv joint all together. Replacing the boot is an old school 70's-90's method. Replacing the entire cv axle.

Rear AC shit is still hooked up, it's a neat and tidy bundle with a connector on it. There's also a bigass hole covered up with a piece of cardstock.

I want to buy a cheap

I've got a comp g gtp and people keep telling me to get KN intake. Do I need to tune or can I just slap it on?

early/mid 90s f250 probably

i'd like to stick with something small so that i can get around mid 20s mpg because i drive around 1k miles per week to college and still have a couple years left to go

How big is the boat?

I haven't bought it yet but it wont be very big. I will prob get a small aluminum one like this and put a motor on it so i can go fishing in the bigger lakes around here and then get a small kayak or something i can just tie down in the bed of the truck for the smaller ones or for fishing alone. my dad said they sell rangers pretty cheap at the government surplus auctions around here which is why i was looking at those

Does anyone know what this wheel is and how to get it to work with beamng?

neat thank you helpful an/o/n
>both outers cracking, not torn
>small 1" cut on driver side outer boot
>near inner clamp
>no grease loss
>not even clicking
i'm willing to throw $20 at it in order to save $120

Your friend is an unironic retard. Rangers are amazing. They're small enough to be usable in tight quarters, reliable as fuck, easy to work on and relatively fun to drive.

>redilderd
did u hone the walls?
>breaking in them walls
also did u replace the valve stem seals?

ranger should be fine

>D21
do it u madman

>slap some dick on your vagina
>hell yeah k&n
stop listening to people

>he didn't use starting fluid to lume the upper engine
S C R A P P E D
C
R
A
P
P
E
D

nah dude, not worth it.
replacing the boots are a major hassle, and you probably won't do it right either. just get a re-manufactured halfshalft and install it.

>wants to tow a boat
Yeah an old ranger is a bad choice and YOU are the retard.

>my friend says that ford rangers are pieces of shit. is he right?

They're as reliable as other minitrucks, if you see rust or accident damage stay the fuck away from it

I got a 98 chevy 1500 5L v8. I'm hearing a noise during acceleration, especially when cold. It's almost like a squeak that gets more rapid with acceleration. I don't hear knocking. I changed the serpentine belt and tensioner and spark plugs a month ago. I'm working on it tomorrow. Any thoughts on what to check out?

i read that the 2.3l 4 cylinder ranger is the most reliable. would that be enough to tow something like and be a decent hunting truck or should i go for the 4.0l v6 4x4?

Never had a Ranger, but I owned a 2006 Mazda3 with the 2.3L and it was an absolutely fantastic little engine. The Rangers and B-series of the time used the same 2.3L engine, it's super reliable. Very simply to change plugs, and if you do the oil every 5,000km you won't have any problems.

Rangers were good little trucks, they never sold in crazy numbers (in the later years), but you still see them everywhere. That tells me the majority of them are still plugging along.

what about one of these?
memphis.craigslist.org/cto/d/126k-mi-99-toy-tacoma-sr5/6467171435.html

should i stay away from trucks like these that say "rebuilt" or are they good to go?

As a rule I would say stay away from it. It means the damage to the vehicle was so severe that insurance determined it was cheaper to write off than to fix. If this happened with less than 1K miles on it, as the advertisement says, then you can assume the damage was pretty fucking severe for a nearly-new car to be written off.

Maybe it was fine to drive until now, and maybe the nigger-rigged welds on the frame are finally starting to go which is why this guy is getting rid of it.

I wouldn't pay more than $1,000 for a RUNNING, registered, and safety certified Tacoma from 1999. Taco tax doesn't apply to trucks this old.

There comes a point when it really is pointless to sell a vehicle. If it was a great truck and in good running shape, why wouldn't this asshole just keep it? Is he that desperate for ~$4,500? This probably isn't his DD, so he should just keep it as a backup vehicle.

But it's probably got some fuckery going on, so I wouldn't touch it. Tacos of that era have notorious frame rot issues, too. It' doubtful Toyota would honour any warranty service to correct the issue on a vehicle that had been written off, so it's probably rusted.

thanks i will avoid. is the a cutoff of how many miles i should be looking for on a vehicle? for instance should i avoid all trucks over like 150k or 200k miles?

If it's a newer Tacoma or 4Runner and it's got 150k that's not a problem. Anything that runs on the Prado platform is good to go for 300k before a rebuild might be needed. Some guys have gotten 500k on their 4.0L FJs.

If you're looking at something North American, I wouldn't buy anything with more than 60-70k. That's about the point when they start showing signs of wear and little things start failing (bearings, u-joints, MAF sensors, etc.).

If you're just looking at vehicles in general, it really does depend on the make/model, and transmission/engine. 3rd gen RAV4s came with 2.4L and 3.5L engines. The 2.4 was a terrible piece of shit that burned oil (Scion TCs used it too), while the 3.5L was a great engine. Best thing to do is pick a few specific cars, then find the cleanest one with lowest mileage. You can only do so much when buying used, it's always a bit of a gamble.

Oh, and avoid anything made by Dodge/Chrysler.

thanks. most of the stuff in my price range is going to be 1998-2004ish unless i can get a newer 2008-2011 ranger from a government surplus auction for cheap

I tow a boat of about the same size with my 94 Ranger 2.3 5spd with 3.46 rear.

Just don't plan on using OD while towing and you'll be fine. Bumper hitch will do the trick no problem.

Niggerified.

I live in Florida and I want to go to car events and things but I fucking hate Mexicans so I never go. Anyone having the same problem I am?

yea im in mississippi and i have the same problem but there's a lot of niggers here too

Downshifting from 3rd - 2nd has started to feel noticeably more rough/hard. The feeling is progressively getting worse. Is this a symptom of a synchro going bad or something else? Also happens when shifting up from 2nd - 3rd.

at least you can understand what niggers are saying half the time. Once mexicans start speaking spanish, they third wheel you hard

I have a stupid modern honda commuter car and the steering wheel does not telescope close enough to me. I end up sitting up 90 degrees, my feet are cramped and my arms are stretched out. This is uncomfortable as hell.

Any way to modify the steering wheel to come closer to me? Seems like the only thing I could do is get an aftermarket wheel and loose my paddle shifters and cruise control. Do I just wait a few years and sell the piece of shit?

just drive it and after a while ur body will adapt and naturally grow to fit the car

I've owned the car for 5 years. I guess it is fine for short trips and I have another newer car that is comfy. I was just hoping to keep this car for a long time, it is a perfect beater for parking in the city.

which do you think is the best option? all g37

2009 sport 130k miles $10k
cargur.us/mcs7z

2008 100k miles 1 accident reported $9k
cargur.us/lyH7V

2008 110k miles minor accident $9k
cargur.us/kRpFr

Need a commuter econobox for around 5k €. Used Focus (2008 onwards, 1.6L) seems to fit the bill perfectly. What would be similar cars in terms of size / price / reliability I should also look at? Mazda 3 seems to be an option. Location is Germany, if that matters.

Also Peugeot 308 seems reasonable. And 150 PS out of the 1.6L engine compared to the Focus's 100 seems nice.

Considering those are probably the gears you engage most often if you do a lot of city driving or slow commuting, then I would safely assume those two synchros are starting to be quite worn.
Difficult engagement could also be a symptom of a bad clutch cable/bearing, but that usually causes difficulty across the board, not just on a couple of gears. Still, if you have a cable clutch it could be a good time to adjust the cable tension or to check for leaks under the bellhousing if you have a hydraulic clutch.

Another remote possibility could be that your shift cables need to be adjusted, but again, the symptoms for loose shift cables are usually felt on more than two gears, that's why I think it's unlikely.

Not much else you can do unless you want to tear your gearbox open.

Thanks for the advice, I'll look into it. The car has around 152,000 miles on it, so it makes sense that a variety or even a combination of the possibilities you listed could be going out.

It's probably the synchros or a bad bearing, although the problem seems to be isolated in gears 2-3, 3-4 and 4-5 engage just fine.

Your friend is retarded

He's not towing a yacht you dumbfuck

It sounds like synchros. Replacing the trans fluid with GM Friction Modified Synchromesh cleared up a grinding I had in 3rd. Ive also heard good things about Redline trans fluid smoothing out rough shifts.

>2k lb boat+trailer, ranger capacity is 1500
Yeah no

I'm trying to learn manual I've got nobody that owns a manual near me. Is buying a shitbox a good option/where would I find one for less than a grand?

Well I'll sellyou my 2000 silverado with 400k miles if you are in Texas

>Small aluminum bass boat
>2000lbs
You're fucking stupid. Even if it was 2000lbs going 500 over the rated capacity won't do shit

Aux cords, chargers, all kinds of stuff are typically routed through center console and glove box for access to the user

Is it a constant squeal, or does it do it on and off? Does it follow the engine's RPM? Does it change in pitch/goes "high" or "low", or does it more or less frequently/louder under any circumstance, such as a cold engine or humid weather or recently driven? Any idea where it could be coming from, front or rear of the engine?

The more detailed info, the easier it is to discard stuff

does a low profile jack, or any floor jack, lift to different maximum heights?

I have a cheap one from napa that doesn't seem to lift the vehicle as high as I want. So I'm planning on buying a low profile one

They bad or something?

Not that user, but from your posts, it's obvious that you're WAY under-qualified to remove the screws, nuts and tabs that keep the OEM airbox in place, and change it with any sort of aftermarket unit

Just leave it be, user

I'm currently hesitating between buying a sports car (something like a used Cayman or a Mustang GT) and a motorcycle.
The car would have to be my daily driver, since I can't have 2 cars.

I live in Canada, so I'm thinking that a winter beater + a motorcycle would be a better idea, what do you guys think?

does anyone have that low quality gif parodying the heel toe in initial d?

its unsafe but in a pinch you can put something under your jack. i only did this for supporting an exhaust while i fucked with the hangers

start looking on craigslist. it might take a while but you should be able to find a $500 beater at some point. or just post your location on whatever online community you prefer to see if anyone will help in exchange for some fresh boipucci

This one?

Let's suppose I'm going to buy a junkyard 5.3 motor for an engine swap. At around what mileage do things start wearing out? At what point should I consider a top end rebuild/full rebuild? I generally don't hear about major issues with these engines. Usually just minor accessory shit breaking or wearing out. Also unsure of whether to get a gen 3 or gen 4 motor. Besides the cylinder deactivation shit I'm not sure what the differences are

Had about 230k miles on my '02 1500 until I blew the motor driving through a river. It ran flawlessly before that. And I still hate myself for doing that

If your car runs 87 but you want to use 89 because it's cheaper, is this worth it or not?

19 y/o here tryna buy my first car. want something reasonable and practical but fun (obv), and i've kinda got my heart set on an na miata.

in terms of learning how to wrench and do shit, is an early miata pretty good for that? all my research says they're fairly reliable and forgiving in that department but just wondering what y'all think.

if it makes any difference, i live at home currently because i got to community college and my dad is a huge saab guy, learned pretty much all i know from him, and he thinks it'd be fun to have one so he'll be working on it with me.

the larger engine rangers have towing capacities far in excess of 1,500 lbs

What

Just put a piece of wood on the circle part

>Diet Cherry Coke

What kind of bitchmade nigga...

Well Veeky Forums I dun goofed
Long story short had half tank of good gas drained about 7 gallons from a project car thought it was only 3 months old turns out its actually 6 years by my math truck ran later that night but hesitated ran fine next day didn't want to start had to use carb cleaner and it started like shit still ran fine burned a quarter tank added new gas
Today finally drain all but maybe an 8th add a gallon of new gas now won't start

I got pressure gas at shrader is good took out plugs they were coated in varnish cleaned them still won't start
What gives?
I doubt particles cause the way I drained it from the other truck was from the fuel line in the engine bay using its pump so it was still filtered it won't even run on carb cleaner maybe 1 cylinder fires but it doesn't start and I'm starting to backfire
Truck is a 06 ranger 3.0

why shouldnt I connect the negative lead to the dead battery when jumping a car?

Drain the gas the same way as you did with the project car using the pump to clear the lines and tank. Fill it up with fresh gas and a can of seafoam and use carb cleaner to get it started. That old gas probably had a shit ton of water in it

Did that I drained it using the pump all i got in it is maybe a gallon of mixed bad and good and a gallon of good gas

Could have been stolen. That would give it a salvage title. Might not have been insured either.

The only affordable truck that will get mid 20 mpgs would be, believe it or not, a mid 2000s Silverado 5 speed manual 2wd with the 4.8l. I had one, got 27 mpg all day long. They're cheap and reliable, but awful at towing anything over 3000 lbs. Should work well for you.

Also you could tow a boat like that with any vehicle. You could tow that with a Miata desu.

Fanatec Porsche 911 wheel. Don't know if it works for PC or Beam.NG

>Driving 1998 Lexus LS400 home.
>On highway.
>Slow down a bit.
>Battery light comes on, radio glitches, lights dim, etc.
>Above only happens at lower RPM/lower speed
>Limp it home in 2nd/3rd gear.
>Make it to garage.
>Battery voltage 11.6
>Car won't start now.


Chances are it's my alternator right?

Is there a way to tell if your oil needs replaced due to age, not mileage? Like if you use synthetic and drive 4,000 miles a year, when do you know if the oil needs changing

You really don't without sending in a sample for analysis. I would say you should change oil every 2 years minimum, as moisture can build up.

I sold mine at 215k hard miles. It ran absolutely like new. No weird noises or vibrations, always started right up, no smoke or disappearing oil, not even any oil leaks, and still lots of power.
Never had a problem with any engine accessory either. Actually pretty impressed with it.

Doesn't hurt anything. Don't know why it would be cheaper though.
Yeah they're easy to work on, parts are cheap and easy to get and they tend to just keep going despite being abused for years. Can't really go wrong.
It sometimes makes a spark, which could ignite flammable gases coming out of the battery. Never seen it happen myself.

Well water is more dense than gasoline so it settles on the bottom of the tank. Considering it ran progressively worse each day (I'm assuming) you probably burnt up most of the usable gas, and the water settled overnight. You may have to drop the fuel tank and clean it out completely.

So, I'm not familiar with the car since I'm no burgerclap, but I can see you took your wheel out, and even took the caution of jacking the car, so possibly brake job?

In any case, if you're asking the questions you've already made, you aren't fit for fiddling with your engine's intake

If'n ya want to do it proper, do a comprehensive vacuum test across the system's most important restrictions, see just how bad (or good) it is, and decide from there
Here are some pointers to get you going

autospeed.com/cms/A_112718/article.html

autospeed.com/cms/A_113270/article.html
autospeed.com/cms/A_113157/article.html
autospeed.com/cms/A_113064/article.html

Poke around and see, there are some great articles on that one site. Kind of a pain to look around for what you want, but you'll come across the links for the DIY stuff that you want anyhow

Dedinitely have a bad alternator. Possibility of a dead battery too.

>did u hone the walls?
Is a pig's pussy pork?

>also did u replace the valve stem seals?
Is a bovine's butt beef?

I got this 90s camry that just rolls around, its an auto, and PDR12 do nothing. If the car is on and put in any gear it makes a clanking sound around the diff area...
I was going 80 and lost drive and the revs ran away.

CV joint failure?

Jack up the front, put it in nuetral and turn a wheel. It should turn the wheel on the other side the opposite direction. If it doesn'g turn the other wheel you know your cv or differential is completely fucked. At least that will let you rule out the transmission.

Yup battery is dead.. Charging overnight, and will do charge test tomorrow.

from what I've heard its the concentration of hydrogen molecules around the neg post. Dont charge you batteries in a dry closet.

The are strong as fuck. I have seen junk yard 5.3 boosted to 1000hp on hopes and prayers and the thing lives. 300shot of nitrous no prob.
Change the lifers and the gaskets. Cheap stuff if you know where to look.

lol'd

KN has okay filters, their intakes are trash though.

Sounds like the transmission is kill. Look underneath it, is the CV half shaft broken/dragging on the ground?

They're pretty simple, transmissions are not.