WIP General

Also, container dimensions in my hobby notepad.

Am I blind or despite using wildly different base colors (red copper, pale green gold, silver, two shades of aluminium) all these have ended up looking the exact same?

Gonna ask the new bread, anyone have the skitarii or admech painting guide since the link is broken right now?

Are these spoons going to be used in an Ork build?

I used a red lacquer spray for pure red.

I would love to play against an ork army that replaced its weapons with cutlery, but it still worked because ork magic.

'GIT 'IM WIT DA SPOONZ, YA GROTS'

Are you trying to get the results from pic related?

I can post the rest of these if you want.

Yes, but I wanted to keep it simple by using zenithal highlights.

But I don't see any difference between a super light silver and a very red copper. Or a gold. One of those has all three on it and still looks the same.

Guess I need a very dark gunmetal to create shadows.

I know, its probably my favourite of the GW assassins. I'll still probably get it once I have the cash.

FW definitely seem to have it down with their pre-shading.

I thank you for the new reaction image. Also that fourth picture makes think your Titan is saying "Aw! A dreadnought! How cute!"

What are you using for the trim, the new Vallejo Metal Color gold?

"Uncle Reaver, will you pick me up?"
"Yes, but only if you do your purging homework."
"Yaaaaay"

Thanks for brightening up my day with Keks and feels.

Could use a wash/highlight on the brass rivets to make them pop. Lovely work though!

Mass producing shipping containers sides and tops.

Your masking job is tight on the heraldry.

Are there any plans for the base?
What's left to do on this guy?

>Implying a vanus would even be anywhere near the target of their assassination

I feel like if the Vanus is in combat then reactive would be a lot better.

Almost like half of a diorama: the wrist screen has an auspex feed with a blip showing up really close, and they're turning towards it with their pistol.

The amount of tech-gubbins on there means that when you say 'He's a Vanus assassin' I go 'OK, that makes sense', but I wouldn't pick him out as a Vanus without the prompt.

Any sculpting guides? also some links are dead.

My original ideas were
> a really tech-heavy assassin (image a Skitarri Ruststalker but not as lanky)

> really normal looking guy (with the giant brain head from the Dark Eldar Medusae

> a Saboteur, so having heaps of packs, and explosives, and a detonator on a bodysuit style assassin.

Ultimately I went with this, but its not finished yet so I might use this as something else.

Yeah, but no way I'd do that on small infantry models.

Here's a test on the right with a dark metal base and then gold. I think I might use something that like. Somehow the effect is a lot less visible in a photo, but I'm going to say it's good enough.

I also ruined my fucking pot of FW clear red before I can even use it. Turns out Tamiya requires 1:1 paint to thinner, but the same ratio destroys FW's stuff.

Oops.

Have you read Nemesis?
Most peoples' frame of reference for a Vanus will probably come from that novel, and none of those fit with it.

You could use the same technique as basically the inverse of zenithal shading, especially if you don't base before painting.

Spray from beneath the model upwards with your shading colour after doing the metallic coat.

I have read it, but I based it on an Unbound Vanus in Tallarn: Ironclad (pic related).

Basically they go out into the field and mark and kill their own targets in person.

The assassin in this goes toe to toe with Alpha Legion and Iron Warriors throughout.

minotaur, space shark, flesh tearer, raven guard.

I made the Minotaur massive, because they're a chapter used to kill other chapters mainly.

posted this here a while ago before I'd done any work greenstuffing the gaps on the conversion

Here's the current situation.

Post your Inquisitors, lads, I need inspiration

I love it.

Could someone post the roll chart? Forgot to save it.

Emperor's Children

Can someone tell me how bright the new stormhost silver paint is compared to runefang steel?

...

I nedd to get around learning how to do some proper layering.

I never learned until recently the need to feather different layers when applying them. I learned about feathering as a proper hobby term at the same time.

Don't worry TS user, they're all the same.

Liquid Greenstuff: worth it? Any good alternatives? Any good DIY versions?

I'm not opposed to giving GW money, but there are often better deals and products elsewhere that I just haven't seen.

It's not bad per se, but the Minotaur being so off centered on his base is definitely weird. Also, if you're going to make big marines, might as well do cannonical Giant marines, the Sons of Antaeus.

Short answer: To fill gaps? No. To give a model some texture, or make it dirty? Very useful.

Long answer: youtu.be/cK97CLGFwY4

nein, the top left and top right ones have a different sheen. might they be the copper or silver, my little thousand fräulein?

My 25th miniature ever - Necron Overlord.
My girlfriend bought this for me in GW store when she was at the mall.

I followed Duncan's tutorial - the highlights on the blade were a pain to do - he makes it seem so easy.

I decided to cover the blade in Ardcoat (along with the orbs and crystals) so it's kinda glassy but it doesn't look all that shiny in the pictures.

I'm kinda proud of the little crystal in the front of the base that I made from leftover sprue. Also that's friggin last time I'm doing base with miniature on it.

I can dig it so far m8.

If i had to give some feedback a wash on the cape (nuln oil would be best) would improve it a good deal, and coloring the orbs on the cape would let it pop more. With the new Gem paints GW has coming out those could be done rather well.

Looking sharp lad. This is proof of Duncan's power, and evidence that all new modellers must religiously watch his videos.

The resurrection orb looks wonderful. Improvement wise, the cape and loincloth seems bit flat. Wash them a bit, then highlight. You may need to go over them a few times to get the to pop.

Looks gud m8

Thanks.

Actually that might be again the lighting (the shitty DIY cardboard lightbox+phone camera included) - in normal conditions they do pop out. It took two layers of Screaming bell + Hashnut copper on the flat panels + Reikland hleshshade in the recesses.

Might try the gem paints - they would be great for that - I don't have the patience to do all the orbs by hand.

Painting 5 more Ork warbikers after finishing the Nob biker. Also converting the Orruk Megaboss into a Mega-armoured Warboss, the model is a lot bigger than I thought.

Thats looking pretty good man, especially the green orbs. The glossy coat really does it favors.

Only thing I'd say is be careful with how you're applying the paint, only because the scythe blade is looking a bit thick in some parts. Maybe a wash and dry brush for the cape and loincloth. Regardless though, this is a good piece and you've done well. Keep at it my dude.

Thanks guys.
Gonna practice even more.

After 2 months of stagnation, I finally got motivation and started working on 16 kobolds for Super Dungeon Explore. I recently played it with my GF and she really encouraged me to finish minis so we could play it more often.

Feels good man.

Do people tend to thin down Vallejo game/model air? Obviously they're 'made' for airbrushing but do you tend to feel they could be thinned more?

Like I hate the surge / saturation of monstrous creatures that up until late 5th was reserved to Tyranids, eldar and Chaos...

But if they just made the Dread Knight this, made it generic for all SM chapters with like an upgrade kit for GK to add the sword and the fancy guns, shoulders, teleporter knees and shins.
SM generic one could have had an assault cannon, TL las cannon or plasma cannon options.
It would have been pretty cool.

You put the "dread" into it properly.

9 out of 10, almost perfect.
Fantastic blending.
Boarders are a little messy over the lines.

Two models of the same inquisitor, and the acolytes that go with him. Will eventually be the basis of my next army.

I brush them and I thin them still.

One drop of vallejo thinner medium for 4 drops of paint. Works for me at least.

And I'm brushing them, not spraying.

Smashed the first one with my fist to see how sturdy they are and then made the last ones with the doors smashed open from within,
Now, to frame them and add other details such as locks and ladders.

And starting making modular fence networks. Sucka.

And da granny fences

What should I put on the black strip?
I play bad moons but it doesn't have to be the yellow moon. Any ideas?

Underrated post

Has anyone tried pic related technique to make AL? I'd like to see a finished producted.
Alternatively, if yhe user that made said picture could show his models, I'd be grateful.

Either the checkers given in many ork boxes, or some yellow, because there's absolutely now sign of it being a bad moon right now.

that's so cool! and like aksed, how did you kept yourself motivated to paint it?

i started the energy effect on my powerfist, i'm going to paint lightning effects over this. i came across a pic on google of a space marine who was painted like that, i think it wil give a nice effect

Checks/Dags would be a bad idea if they're trying to make it look bad moon-like. That's more the goffs sort of thing.

Terrain thread guys, check it out

Yellow checkers.

Started using my airbrush to blend, still doesn't look as good as wet blends can look, but it has the advantage of being fast.

>BT Termi conversions

MORE youtube.com/watch?v=JfUVgsaLnR0&list=PLy55WVLwDMPlyr7qFDehv8aCI9wnuDvZd&index=64

I'm just trying to practice the basics right now. Shading, highlighting, colour choice and on. I think I'll try out wet blending next. I'll do some experiments.

On a somewhat related note, I'm practising drawing, although I guess that doesn't belong here.

Have a crap pic of Double, the man with the home-built shock maul.

Tried flames, looks odd...
Should I continue or just repaint black?
Early wip

Or should I try this?

do the yellow stripes on the outside edges, it'll let you keep the moon decal you've already used there

That actually looks kind of cool, but what you really want to do is to widen the Bad Moons symbol across the whole stripe and paint it in opposing colours. So black logo on yellow and vice versa.

To resharpen my skills after a long break, I am working on making post apoc matchbox cars. Red one is mainly a repaint, going for the classic repainted speeder look while the one on the left will be a last of the crazy tech look. I am trying to think of a color and wash for the red one, while the masked one I am stuck on. I want to keep the shape, bit I do not know how to make it tougher looking. I was thinking placcard on center hood and side doors, but I am not sure what to do with the roof, or if I should arm it with a turret. It is a lambo countachlp 500s

For turrets, I have a few 350 and 700 scale naval stuf I was thinking, but I am not sure

Making a portal glyph brick by brick.
Going to use WLS Realistic Water Effects and Glow In the Dark Paint to fill in the "well.
Fucking FAB.

Please keep us updated on this.
I really ought to make myself a portalglyph too...

MESSY!
NoMoreNails is my mortar and what I use as a common terrain bonding agent. Takes a bit of time, but holds it's shape and cures hard as NoNails. Peels off skin like PVA.
I brush on the spot, and lay down a couple bricks. Much like real brick laying.
I will probably make it 2 or 3 layers tall, as well, but want to keep the profile low. Might have a Blue Horror (or these new uber small horrors) emerging from the portal.

I think it could use more yellow. How about two yellow stripes and black in the middle?

I may just paint the interior, but I printed these out onto high glossy paper. Do you think these will bleed into Water Effects? And if so, would that look awesome or gross?

For instance!

>here's an idea this humble user cooked up that could mesh the two

Just as fun as real brick work! (/ns)

Brick cutting follows the same principles, but these bricks cut more akin to cutting pills. Powdery, so use a sharp sharp blade and a steady hand.
Mistakes are easily hidden by scale.

only way to find out is to do a test run

What is a good source for some GW scale zombies and beastmen? I only need a few for Mordheim, so I don't want to buy whole box sets, and it's not easy to tell what models are compatible with GW models in terms of scale. Mantic zombies seem to be a bit smaller and slimmer, for example.

Painting Captain Aethon with a Death Guard color scheme, is green a good color for the cape if i'm doing the classic colors?

Yellow-brown transition looks bad. Black-brown will be better imo

Some samples of my IRL stone walkway work:
No Power Tools required!
The same sand I sweep between the interlocking stones is what I use on my table top and bases, though.
Interlocking Stone Joining Sand. 5$ for a 50lbs bag.
Took like 20 for the project here, but the ONE bag I bought for terrain has lasted me 3 tables and 4 armies of basing. Still have like 20lbs of it left too. Cut it with some ultra fine craft sand and youre good to go!
That is why most of my terrain is initially blue. The craft sand is blue!
You are correct, and you know I will report back! I am still going to try to incorporate some glow in the dark paint. I HAVE to test that out, and at least it's acrylic. I wanted to test with Latex paint too, but that will have to wait til later I suppose.

Still slowly getting this together. Since the Morghast box builds two models, both will become Nurgle Daemon Princes. I wanted to do a piece of brief fluff as to why they look so similar. Here's the rough idea of it:

Originally the two were aspiring sorcerers within my warband. They competed fiercely for Nurgle's favor. At first Nurgle was pleased, but eventually the bickering and petty squabbles came to annoy the God of Plagues and he cursed them to share one body. The two of them merged into one, finally forced to work together to spread Nurgle's touch. They grew in power over time, and gradually regained Nurgle's favor. Eventually they attained the ultimate reward, transforming into a mighty daemon prince. However, the deep hatred the two sorcerers still dwelt within them, and as they transformed, their newfound power fed that hatred. With it they were able to break free from one another, each coalescing into an individual daemon prince. For a moment, Nurgle was impressed by their ability to break his curse but then he began to laugh. The curse had only been partially undone. The newly born daemons would find that they would grow weak and useless if they were apart for too long. So they must continue to work together. On the battlefields they endlessly try to surpass the other, ultimately unable to as their powers are very much still linked as one.