WIP Converting/Painting/Sculpting General

Dakka edition! Last one is about to die.

Copypasta's

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
mega.nz/#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers (currently mostly for 40k proxies and conversions)
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>How to Strip
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Ventilate, motherfucker
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

previous thread:

Bunch of orks to kick this thing off, all still very much WIP. Killa kan and the old edition Nob heads i got as a gift from my roommate.
Also my first ever conversion for the Ghazghkull, imo the stock pose for the autocannon arm was boring as fuck so made it point forward.
Will clean up the tubing on the back and add detail + texture. Im very new to mini painting, and these are some of my first minis ever.

How are your armies coming? Also, Stations

bump

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The mouth was damaged by glue when I applied the sleeve for the right arm. the close up and my lacking camera skills don't really help either.

Not bad!

A majority of my infantry are done for the guard but a lot my vehicles remain unfinished as I'm awaiting an airbrush. Had trouble summoning the will to paint due to how ugly the plasmas and meltas I have are due to not properly prepping them before priming (had never working with FW before). Sadly I don't have a worthwhile pic to show that I haven't shown before, so here's a bad quality photo of a 4000 point game I played.

Has anyone else fallen for the sector imperialis base kit meme?

what?

>You will never be an ork with a dick
>You will never have a WAAAGH&fuck lifestyle
Why live?

The detail is utter shit on it, textures that look good in the box are non existent on the model, the rivets are pretty much blobs. It's a lot worse of a standard than what gw's been putting out recently, I'll post some photos in a minute.

Now I'm curious because I was planning on getting a few of them for terrain and debris.

ND get out.

How do resist the urge to kill yourself after you fuck up painting fw models.

You strip them, git gud and then paint them again.

Post pics, also return for a refund...

Strip them, doing it again.

Hopefully just a bad batch.
Be interesting to see pics. I have a box of 32 and 25/40 on the way

Question / suggestions for the cloak of my Overlord.

The Green orbs in the center of the cloak, Should I paint them as like, glowing orbs (like a resurrection orb - glowing from the center out) to the outside) or painted like traditional GW gems?

I got my Krieg commissar for my steel legion army, any suggestion for a conversion? i was thinking doing a skull for the gasmask, but im not good at sculpting.

Infinity antennas for Ariadna

This is one of the main offenders, spiked bits does a review of them as well and you can get a better idea of the issues, some bits are alright like the barrel, but it's details like the skulls and Aquilas that barely stand out,

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Does this look like a 40k grneral? ( remember to Thin their paints whichever you choose)

Jesus Christ have you sprayed those already?

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Nope, fresh off the sprue

Also this would explain the armoured containers appearing on eBay a couple weeks back

I need to paint a ton of skeletons fast and preferably cheap, has anyone used krylon camo khaki and a wash to do skellies and if so has some pics? or knows of a better way to do it? thanks

where'd u get the barrels?

holy shit

Tamiya German fuel barrels

inner core planets are reduced to mounting antennas on oil drums?

I guess cloning Joan after she dies in every battle is expensive

hahahaha, well.... just wip and not a core planet, it is made for Ariadna/Dawn

Goddamn, I read as PanO even though it says Ariadna, shit...

Add some computer bits and an exhaust pipe and you have a makeshift gas powered comms relay.

nice idea, thank you

jesus, that would explain the quality too

I don't know why they keep trying to dip into foreign manufacturing. It never pans out.

If you spray, wash and drybrush they will look fine.

so this is my farseer as of, with terrible white balance for reasons I don't know.

There are some details to do, gems and such, and maybe a final edge highlight on the green. But I'm looking at a couple areas that are just the primer black.

The face is one, and I don't dislike it as black, but should I do something with the black, and if so what?

the bigger question is the bit at the back of the mantle. I'm pretty sure I don't want this to be black, but I don't know what I want it to be.

Also, slightly older pic. Missing a layer of highlights.

You could always just brush abaddon black on and do an edge highlight by mixing in some grey.

Trim in gold?

>with terrible white balance for reasons I don't know.

Open it in Photoshop.
Click "Auto Color" in the Image menu.
Save, done

Newbie here. How would I go about painting pic related, assuming I have all the colours? I'm starting from a black base and I know how to deal with the white underbelly, but I'm unsure about the orange scales on the back. Should I drybrush to hell on the black base until I reach full orange?
I've already tried a few things and everytime I went back to stripping the poor beast.

that could work thanks

and thanks.

I would just choose where to change colour, base there with that dark red and then base orange where I want it brighter, you might look into blending, but it looks feasible with just layering

Miniature 26 - High Marshall Helbrecht

Failcast is pain in the ass to paint + my white scar got thick and looks like shit.
Also I didn't bother with ligthbox this time.

Damon that white is hellish .why? How did you do the white? Did you go from black primer straight to white? That might be the problem. On a related note, no highlights or don't I see them? Why?

People were asking me where I got my signs earlier.
While I don't recall, I can upload the files here.
So, here goes!
(by the looks of the filenames, I probably got them here)

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Is there a way to remove modelling glue without damaging the resin nor the paint? got a couple minis that don't stand up straight and I want to fix that

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Do you know the freezer trick? You are going to need to be very delicate or you might bend the resin. (The trick would be freezing the model and carefully snapping the glue)

>White
Black basecote, celestra grey, nuln oil + white scar (which has gone bad and ruined all work on the whites)
>highlight
they're all there, might be the pic
Metallics in runefang steel, red is up to fire dragon something orange, black is in eshin grey and so on

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that's easy enough

and I honestly wouldn't be losing much if these broke anyways.

"Basecoat" ofc - I'm fucking illiterate

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And that is all I have other than this really big one ;)

It's a bit me and a bit the photo being overly red balanced. Are you going to strip the model are you ok with that white?

Please take care. I don't want that model to doe because of me.

Any way to fix this without stripping?

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wut?

Thank you very much for sharing these, greatly appreciated.

I don't think so, it looks thick.

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>China
That explains everything

lol, stealing stock and selling it weeks before the release date - fucking horrible casting

>China

makes perfect sense

That head makes it look like an armor-clad baby

I'm gonna dump those Ogre and Space Wolf pics I talked about in the last thread. Feel free to destroy my self esteem, or give me kudos if you think they look good. I know OP has a great pic on how to take pictures, but I still suck.

I'll start with the ogres. This is my maneater.

Sorry guys, I said I hadn't touched these guys in years. Even in the case they ended up with a little dust on em.

Now for my butcher. Its a small conversion. When the ogres came out there weren't even models for the whole line and the metalcast minis were way to expensive. So a bull had to take up the chopping duties. The apron is greenstuff and young me wasn't smart enough to smooth out the finger prints, so I put blood over it to simulate gore and gitz.

If you're doing a massive dump, please at the very least make collages so it's one image per model.

People say ogre skin is hard to make look good, the real hard part is making each ogre have relatively similar skin tones, I can't even remember the formula I used.

How do I paint something black?

How do I highlight black if I've already made the mistake of painting it?

His cleaver is still MIA as, once again, young me didn't know how to do things right and didn't pin it.

My bad I'm not very proficient in even taking pics right. I'll try to collage the space wolves.

So I took a break from painting guard today and went and did one of the many mehreens I have laying around.

Things I can see in the picture I need to fix: Mould line on shoulder pad, some blue on the rim of the shoulderpad, some white on the boot.

Any other advice in general? I'd ideally be looking for more advice on my technique, as I'm not planning on doing many more smurfs (first time painting a marine in about a year, first time painting a smurf in around five years)

>1836x3264
>potato
>out of focus

Grey,i think eshin grey should work,or just mix your own with white and black

You're right. Sadly, my dad has the nice camera, so potato is all I have, and I've got an issue that makes me too shaky for much better quality, but I cropped it down

All the wolves who aren't just primed. The guys without arm armor are my scouts. Wolf scouts are supposed to be grizzled veterans so I didn't want to have them in just derpy sweatpants.

Is that"fuck thw world imma drown him in wash" effect wanted? It doesn't look bad,but it dies look like a mistake. If you want to avoid it,try wiping the brush more before applying the wash so tgat it comes a bit more even.

Not bad,but the highlights aren't strong enough for my tastes.

Not intended, no. I'm coming back to the hobby after an extended break, and seeing as I was 13 when I stopped properly (the space marine I painted a year ago was a half-hearted attempt at getting back into it), I was more just kind of a "Fuck it, just put paint on it" kinda autist teen, so stuff like washes I'm still getting the hang of. Thanks for the advice, I'll try that next time

If you're good an know the temperature of your black, try to use a matching temperature of gray or you can use a low chroma color with the a matching temperature to give it a little more life.

How do you fuck up trims? I'm geniuenly interested.
Anyways, black out lenses before painting them red and leave some of the black on the edges. It's a smal detail but it makes a huge diffrence.

There are different approaches you can take, depending on what you are after.

>industial and worn stuff
Paint brown into crevices and use a metal color along raised edges and around joint to signify chipped paint and act as highlights

>cold schemes
sharp highlights using blue up to white. It's important to keep the lines consistent and tight. You can always clean up later with the base black.

>soft black, large areas
Don't use black, use a dark grey instead and wash it down with blacks, browns or blues, depending on what color temperature you are going for.
Similarly you can instead tint your colors with blue, green or brown if you want to avoid the - usually - pretty boring looking greys

>making a distinction between metal and cloth areas
Usually helps if you highlight with different colors. I find that when painting cloth, highlighting with a bit of skin color works well.

>laquered armor, chitin, plastics, visors
Just black and gloss varnish. Works well if you paint a gradient underneath the varnish too, but using gloss basically means you can do the actual light do the highlighting for you.

You could also make a distinction between edge highlights, soft highlights, i.e. gradients over the entire surface your are painting as opposed to the raised edges as you would when edge highlighting, and painterly highlights like you'd see in old school comic books and the like.

Black can be tricky, but there are loads of different ways to approach this.

agree with this user.
An extra edge highlight on the blue, but more importantly a highlight on the reds.
The flesh looks good though as do the details.

I think that might have been finishing up that rim in a hurry and then forgetting about it like a retard when I came back to the model. Plus, like I said, kinda shaky so I typically need to go back over stuff or it looks like someone stuck a paintbrush to a vibrator

But cheers for the advice on eyes, i thought they looked a bit off

motherfucker knows his color tempetures.

I'm a bit annoyed that there doesn't seem to be an actual warm and cool black, I know you can mix to get that, but I'm spoiled from oil painting out of a huge collection.

Abbadon is neutral but ever so slightly to the cool right? it looks that way to me, but I'm not a superchromatic.

White scar is such a pain in the ass

holy fuck it is worse than mine.
>unthined paints
>mould lines
>no transfers
>ultrasmurfs
that is an achvmnt.

>imperialis
>not imperium

What color scheme do you guys like best?

Will post more angles. Please excuse the poor picture/paint quality as these are my first 3 models and just trying to decide on a scheme for the army and practice my skills.