Reaper paints are just as good as vallejo, why all the hate?

Reaper paints are just as good as vallejo, why all the hate?

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Game Color, maybe. Model Color, no fucking way.

>model color
yeah that looks great on my 40k sets

>shillpost

Never buy anything with Reaper on the label.

Reaper sucks all form of ass, and the producers should have been put down at birth. On a related note, I hope OP dies of ass cancer before he can reproduce.

HTH

Wtf?? how does it suck? I've been using them for a few months and I don't have any issues but maybe I'm not that knowledgeable. What about reaper makes them bad? Aware me. I made this thread because in other forums I post people shit on me for using reaper and I don't get it. they seem fine.

I only use formula p3
Because are the only one i can buy in my town

Because they aren't as good as Vallejo.

Reaper isn't bad but they're nowhere near the best. But you also sound stupid or foreign so that's probably why people are always shitting on you. "Aware me." It's like saying your Civic is just fine because it drives perfectly fine so it's just as good as a Lamborghini.

not him but I don't get this line of thinking
civic and lambo can get you from point a to point b
that's what a car is supposed to do
they're just suited for different people.
Paint is paint is paint or at least is supposed to be

but who? low pigment? too thick? whyy

Vallejo has higher density. It covers better and leaves a more durable finish before sealing. But Reaper has more flow and is better for blending without needing to use Vallejo Air or adding a lot of thinner to Vallejo.

>Paint is paint is paint or at least is supposed to be

Haha, yeah, go try using house paint or $1 craft store paint on your miniatures. I'll wait. There's hundreds of idiots who do this then ask why their paintjobs are turning out to be shit. If you don't understand why a high end automobile is better than a mass produced econobox, then I wouldn't expect you to understand why shit paint is worse than high quality acrylic meant specifically for miniatures.

>>Haha, yeah, go try using house paint or $1 craft store paint on your miniatures. I'll wait.
youtu.be/rLeWGzJbHzI?t=3m

k

The high end automobile might be better for the millionaire but not for the mcdonolds employee that lives in the ghetto. It's not all around better for everybody. Its not practical for everybody and doesn't suit everyone's needs.

Maybe you don't have a hobbyshop nearby. Why pay to have them shipped when you can use craft paint just as well?

>gee guess why he's using an airbrush instead of a paintbrush
>gee he didn't use any enamel/lacquer/house paint/industrial paint at all

What do you mean "k" you didn't prove shit. Even Boucher says he prefers certain paints like VMA metallics.

It is better if it costs the same. Reaper isn't that much cheaper than Vallejo. Are you trying to tell me a normal person would purposely drive shitty cars if the nicer cars cost the same amount?

>Why pay to have them shipped when you can use craft paint just as well?

Because you CAN'T use craft paint just as well. It takes far more effort to make them work. I can tell you haven't even tried this before.

>fucking morons in this thread trying to argue that craft paints and model paints are the same

I bet you don't even use sable brushes or paint thinner because "all brushes is the same" and "water is the same as medium".

if the cars cost the same then the point is moot. they would be similar quality at the same price point. Otherwise one of the companies would be out of business.

I've used the folk art paints from walmart on plastic model kits before, they were literally no different to tamiya

synthetic is pretty much just as good as sable these days grandpa

What is the real difference between those two out of curiosity?

Thin your paints

That model looks horrible. The white is incredibly chalky and the paint goes over the lines. Some of that may come from your own incompetence though seeing as you didn't even clean the mold lines off of the pods on the back.

I honestly think that craft paints are fine if you are doing big low detailed terrain pieces that let you slather crap on, but for details plastic kits you are going to want something with a higher pigment density and better consistency. Stuff that flows well in an airbrush is also a good. Your examples and use for craft paints are just plain bad however. And don't just take my word on it, go to the gunpla generals on /toy/ with that picture and see how many people agree with me. The wip threads here are also sources of critique for models.

>they would be similar quality at the same price point

No they wouldn't you moron. A Lamborghini will never be the same quality as a Civic. The whole point was saying if price didn't matter why would you not pick the higher quality product, because a difference in quality IS EXISTENT whether it's paint or cars. Just because you can't afford or are too stupid to acknowledge the difference in quality doesn't mean it isn't there.

I'll try to explain it simply for you while still using the automobile example.
>can get you from point a to point b
That's true but it isn't the whole story. Driving with style, faster, more relaxed and with confort makes for a better life.
Now, not only a better car can, say that, take you to point b faster, but take you there more relaxed helping you to be more productive at work, getting praised by your boss/colleagues.
If you are simply trying to slap color over a piece of plastic, be my guest, buy enamels at a convenience store, but expect them to be shit. You can use them to play, sure, but if you are looking to do a good paintjob, be praised by people who look at it, you have to invest money and buy good tools.
If you can grab those simple life fatcs, we can start debating what is better and why, but we can't until you can't grasp why all cars aren't all the same.

>tamiya

Try using Vallejo next time dipshit. And your paintjob is fucking garbage, especially on such a large model. I'd love to fucking see how shitty a 28mm miniature would look with your garbage paints and technique. There's a reason Golden Daemon winners don't use craft paints for the majority of their detail work.

I tried using those paints on gunpla too. I learned my lesson

>If you are simply trying to slap color over a piece of plastic, be my guest, buy enamels at a convenience store, but expect them to be shit.
>If you can grab those simple life fatcs

Look at his model dude, he can't grasp shit. He can't even get solid coverage with fucking black paint and he still wonders why cheap paint is shit.

if they cost the same , yet there is as massive of a difference of quality as you say either lambo would go bankrupt for not making a profit or honda wouldn't be able to compete because why would you buy a civic at that point.

can you quantify style and show how exactly how much style you would need to make your life better?

How fast do you even need to go in the city? I never go more than 80.

so you're just paying for comfort and the name or "style" as you call it. is that worth it? otherwise they do the same thing.

But in this case your paints legitimately don't do the same thing. Yes, I can say that confidence that Reaper paints pr any actual model paints would simply be better than craft paints on models. Just look at the picture that was posted and see how poorly the paint covers the model.

Gee guess why good paint doesn't cost the same as shitty paint. How are you this dense?

Don't buy into the hype. just because you use vallejo won't make you a great painter. case in point.

Stop arguing about why Vallejo is the same as shit paint if you haven't even used Vallejo before. Once you put your brush to a model for the first time with Vallejo paint you'll know why it's better than dollar store tubes.

I was still typing my post and didn't saw it.
Now dear OP, presuming you aren't just trolling not completely sure at this point, I' ll kindly point you where to improve.
First of all, clean and prime you models. I could be wrong but it looks like you missed this step.
Work on getting a steady hand, there are lots of smudges here and there.
Thin your paints with water (you could use paint thinner too).
Keep your brushes clean and pointy, and invest into a good one, or you will never get decent results no matter what.
Keep trying. Pratice makes you better.

have you even tried reaper paints? They paint the same as vallejo

No they don't, faggot

Last time I checked Reaper paints don't come out of a .3mm airbrush nozzle without having to be diluted heavily with flow improver, so no, they aren't the same.

Also he was reffering to dollar store paint like the gentleman with the white robot was using, not Reaper paints which are standard $3 a bottle deals.

Go fuck yourself, Citadel shill.

are you on lunch break or something? don't you have some game color orders to ship?

Reaper paints are fine. I don't think that there is a huge contingent hating on them here. I personally prefer Vallejo Model Air and Minitare paints though, as they certainly are different than Reaper paints.

Don't buy paints from any company that produces minis as well as paint. their priority is to sell models and paint is an afterthought.

That's hilarious coming from someone who is shilling Reaper even harder than the person you're accusing of being a shill, and you're too stupid to find the shift key. Even a phone does it for you automatically. There's a 100% correlation on Veeky Forums between idiots who don't capitalize and stupid fucking dipshits and stupid fucking posts.

There's a reason Reaper charges less for their paints and why they aren't as popular as Vallejo.

>posting on your phone
Stopped reading right there. Get back to work.

Subscribed

That doesn't neccesarily mean that the paints themselves are bad though.

because vallejo makes it's employees post on public modeling forums?

Completely unrelated but did anybody got Tiamat Bones?
Just curious of how it turned out.

There's nothing wrong with reaper but vallejo is better. Don't know why reaperfags getting butthurt and starting arguments about it. Vallejo's better than citadel, P3, coat d'arms, and tamiya too

>his favorite paint is shit so he just calls people shill

Hot arguments there. Almost as hot as your shit paintjobs where you can't even get a solid coat of black over white.

something about vallejo colors looks dull and sorta washed out looking to me.

Someone should have posted this earlier, and the thread should have ended there. I don't neccesarily dislike Reaper and there paints (Certainly better than walmart paint). I had fun painting a freebee that they gave out on free RPG day. However going on a forum and creating a thread loudly proclaiming that the paints are exactly the same and claiming that there is a marketing conspiracy out to get you instead of providing valid arguments is really what makes the entire thing such a nuisance.

Can you at least quantify that by posting comparison photos or something? And which line are you looking at? Panzer Aces certainly isn't the same as Vallejo Game Color.

>loudly proclaiming that the paints are exactly the same and claiming that there is a marketing conspiracy out to get you instead of providing valid arguments is really what makes the entire thing such a nuisance.
no one here has been able to provide valid arguments or proof its just a circle jerk of "muh pigment muh flow y..you wouldn't understand." If vallejew was objectively better it would be easy to prove, obvious even but it isn't and they aren't.

>not using gunze paints for everything.

Prove reaper is the same as vallejo.

I've used Citadel, Vallejo, Reaper and Tamiya over the years, all are good and bad in there own ways.

Anyone hating on anyone for not using the right brand is stupid as shit.

Being a good painter and modeler are far more important than which brand of paint you use.

I still use Reaper and Vallejo, and I like some of the new Citadel "technical" paints and stuff.

I'm in the process of transitioning from citadel to vallejo. I like them for the dropper, but there are a few things i think Citadel does a lil better (washes, a few of their base colors, metallics are really good).

did he even use craft store paint in that video?

I'm pretty sure it's part of Bones 3, meaning it'll ship sometime this fall/next year.

Vallejo is hit-or-miss by color
The poor-coverage colors in particular are the WORST of any brand I've tried, eg Yellow

When people say vallejo 99% of the time they mean vallejo model air and vallejo model color. VGC is shit.

i just use gw paints

anyone try ammo of mig paint?

Whats the difference between model and game then? Why would they bother producing a shitty line of paints?

Am looking into Vallejo for my next project. Little confused.

Great video, but it was Privateer Press paint, not cheap-o craftstore paint. That stuff isn't really meant for anything beyond half-assed school project poster board painting and letting young children who want to paint as well go crazy with some junker models.

Reaper miniatures are just as good as GW, why all the hate?

Another fag trying to paint light yellow on black primer with a single layer.

Game Color are more saturated, which suits better fantasy miniatures. I don't find them that bad, they're just less covering than GW, nothing you can't solve with just a couple more layers of properly thinned paint. It's even more useful for gradients and if you want to build several highlights/shades levels.

I like reaper paints only because of the of the color triads and the dropper.

This.

>Game Color has been developed for tabletop games. The range consists of 119 acrylic colors, washes and inks; designed for painting small figures, the formula has a lower viscosity than Model Color and a resin more resistant to frequent handling. The colors provide opaque coverage without loss of minute detail.

speaks truth. In my experience: VMC are nice, smoother, opaque and have better coverage than VGC, but with limited palette (military-oriented, so greens/browns/greys out the wazoo but poor choice of really bright and cheerful colors) and they rub off much faster, so forget about touching the WIP mini before varnishing.

So can someone explain why this paint named Brown Violet is green?

I actually went back to citadel's metallics because VGC metallics are fucking horribad.

You should look at Vallejo Liquid Gold, that stuff is top notch.

Metallics and their Technicals line are the best things about Citadel.

Possible options that come to mind:
- it changes color after drying
- it's separated in the photo and will change color after shaking
- it's named after violet the flower, not the color, and resembles the color of wilted flower
- there's some historical military paint naming reference I'm missing
- the paint is mislabeled
- Vallejo's naming policy had another brainfart
- who the fuck knows
- OTOH, Vallejo Air metallics are amazing, also Liquid Metal (they're alcohol-based though, but I've heard good things about their Metal Color line that are supposed to be Liquid Metal's water-based equivalent

>Vallejo's naming policy had another brainfart
This seems like the most likely one

>why all the hate
I have only ever heard Veeky Forums say nice things about Reaper paints Except that they're not really viable to buy outside of the US of course.

>I can't read!

Poor-coverage colors, asshole. I know what they are and called them out. Vallejo's formula is inky as fuck. Other end of the spectrum eg Army Painter I don't have to plan as far ahead using yellows.

I use a lot of AP due to using their primers. Sometimes I get a dropper that's fucking perfect. Squirts out of the bottle almost pre-thinned, and covers great. Ran out because it was such a joy to use. Buy a replacement. Squirts out like fucking cholesterol out of an artery.

Vallejo Model Air and Vallejo Game Air are the only Vallejo colors you need.

Some of the best miniature artists in the world use reaper paints. If its good enough for them then...
Skill lies in the hands not in the jar.

And many more use Vallejo, Scalecolor, etc.

>he thinks Derek Schubert, a Reaper employee, would admit to using non-Reaper paints on the Reaper website
>he thinks Derek Schubert uses only Reaper paints

>Local hobbystore only stocks Citadel paints

I've been using Reaper for years now and haven't had any problems with them.

I'm not autistically attached to any particular brand either. A good chunk of my paints are Reaper, but I also have Vallejo (mainly for, as already mentioned, their superior coverage), Citadel washes and metallics, and even a few Army Painter pots which I picked up by chance.

Anyone telling you your painting will dramatically change because of your choice of paint brand is a liar or shill, and bringing enamel or oil paints into the discussion is just being facetious. You can do great work with just about any acrylic meant for modelling.

I own a few MIG wood shades, they're pretty nice in terms of consistency, and have a ludicrously matte finish.

Same reason Cavalry Brown (Centre) is red I suppose.

I have Citadel, Vallejo, Ak Interactive, Tamiya, Reaper, Humbrol and Lifecolour paints, there is nothing wrong with any of them, you just need to use them and find out what suits your style and the little nuisances between them

>Tamiya/Humbrol/Lifecolour
>Nothing wrong with them

I LOL'D
Sir, you made my day.

I use Reaper paints all the time, because I got a decent collection of their new ones cheap from their kickstarters, and a lot of their old pro paints range when they were discounted before being phased out. Like any paint range, they vary. I am in love with their walnut brown, and the old pro paints aged brick. I'm going to cry when my aged brick finally runs dry.

I haven't used Vallejo much, but I've used a lot of Citadel paints, and if you put a gun to my head, I'd pick Reaper over Citadel, although each has some great paints.

Pic related is an example of my work, you can decide if my opinion is worth a damn.

>Scalecolor
Has anybody here actually used this? Shit is expensive as fuck, was wondering how it possibly could be good enough to justify the price point.

Scale 75 metallics are the best metallics I've ever used by far. Smooth, fine particles - just a joy to paint with. They're pricey, but not outrageous; they're like $5 a pot - how much is Citadel these days? I've never used their non-metallics, so I can't comment on those.

Citadel is typically $4 a pot, but their pots don't come with as much paint as most companies containers do.

Works fine on bases, though.

that is a deep red brown. Get a decent monitor or an eye test

Shake, apply, and be amazed. Its a brown

If you cant appreciate the subtle differences between colors then just get some primary colors and fuck off. If you are into historicals you will learn to love the range of different colors available to splurge on. Also see color chart attached.