WIP Work In Progress General

>I'm getting some Blood Bowl guys in the mail soon, and I want to do "football field" like basing for them as well.

What kind of panzee team plays on grass?!?

>Jim: He sent him down for 'chat' with the Astrogranite!
>Bob: Yeah... looks like our 'star player' has developed a sudden interest in the state of the pitch!

>What is the original mini you're using for the conversion?

He's using a Skaven Verminlord.

I'm debating adding them. I would need to find a good way to fit them on the hunched over body. Either way I'm not done with the chest yet.

Gracias sempai. Original kit is the skaven vermin lord.

This is looking really nice so far. Will the rest of your army get similar Blanche treatment? I remember another user used to post his vermin-Keeper here a while ago but I don't know if he finished it. Do you plan to sculpt the feet into hooves?

I have a certain problem in painting vehicles and big models, in that I'm unsure at what point to stop assembling them, and leave the components to be painted separately.

I've got a drop pod, a land raider, and a bunch of Necron vehicles that I have no idea when to stop assembling so I can actually paint them properly.

Cadianfag here, almost done with my first Basilisk.

Just got the transfers and laquers to go. I also magnetized the gun deck for easier storage, since the model doesn't exactly fit in foam trays very easily.

Looks good, very clean.

>I remember another user used to post his vermin-Keeper here a while ago
Was it this one? This partially inspired me to make my own. When the kit came out people said it looked like a keeper of secrets, but this was the first conversion I saw that wasn't just hypothetical.

> Will the rest of your army get similar Blanche treatment?
Most of the rest of the army is done. It's not especially blanche-y. I kit bashed some of my daemonettes with the witch elves kit, so they have masks like this will, but that's about as far as the similarity goes. Maybe I'll post them eventually.

>Do you plan to sculpt the feet into hooves?
I wasn't going to. The feet are close enough for me, I don't really feel like risking fucking them up.

Hey guys I need some painting suggestions. This is a skaven-talos conversion for my haemonculus covens project. He is supposed to be some tyranid hybrid. Pretty much it's all done painting but the big talons and claws and the bone rack on his back.

Any suggestions on what colors you think would look good for his claws, talons, and bone rack?

Don't know why but i am really enjoying painting skellies

Would I be a humongous faggot if I painted my skellies as pure ghostly glowy shit, like Spirit Hosts? Mind you most of the army would be this way, too. Black Knights, etc. Only vampires, necromancers, Nagash, etc would be corporeal.

not even a little

That sounds rad as fuck. Mind be difficult to pull off effectively though, without them just looking like regular, albeit squeaky-clean skellies.

For that reason I'd recommend not trying this with white. A nice cold green or blue would work great.

I was thinking like how Spirit Hosts are painted, but blue, as its not a color found very often in nature and usually has connotations with something being unnatural or spooky.

I'm trying to replicate one of this Navigator Exo-Suits made by Werdingway, but I can't seem to identify all the pieces used in this awesome conversion.

I can see Sanguinary Guard pieces (pauldrons for the dome/head), Death Company (chest piece), power armor arms, tau pieces for the visor and the cod piece, assault jetpack for the leg armor

WIP picture here

I think Tau Stealth Suit for the legs and the back of a power armor torso.

>I think Tau Stealth Suit for the legs
looks like in this photo
this one however looks like it's the bits glued to a chaos plastic raptor

personally i'm not a fan of the conversion though.
Check out the Anvil Industry and PuppetsWar range for some nice models in exosuits.
Pig Iron has some too irrc.
Might turn out to be cheaper just to buy different models than trying to get all the pieces unless you collect the armies anyway.

I've been trying to put together a Wraithseer for about four hours. This has probably been the most gruelling model I have ever attempted to assemble. And I still can't figure out how to attach the drapes of cloth that go on it.

Testing my stormcast paint scheme!

Holy shit, calm down with the verdigris.

Middle one uses chopped up death company jump pack for the legs and chest, left has it on the knees, and more (maybe sanguinary guard) for the torso and those pipes.

I like the verdigris, gives it the look of an old statue. It could maybe use something to darken it down a little, or to give it less of a dusty look. The whole model looks kind of dusty, to be honest, maybe varnish or a fixer would help. I don't know that the sword should be in that colour though.

What said.

You should retouch the upper layers of metal with a strong edge highlight to tone done the dulling effect of the verdigris.
And using the same tone for the weapon effect is a bad idea.

The purple is a nice touch and well done.

Regarding the weapon you could go for a really strong off white main color, with a simple edge highlight of either electric blue or light purple, with a soft blending between the white and edge.

Oh and if the armor is old and weathered, the rest should look similar. Dusty tattered cloak to the bottom, dust on boots.

If you were painting scenery it would be alright.
Though since the verdigris collected in all the moving parts and between recesses like the fingers for example it doesn't look like a guy in a suit of armor anymore.

You need to be a lot more careful with your application here.

I intent to convert a River troll into a "count-as" for Throgg (on the right), but I need tips and more ideas on how to add height, to make unique markings, etc.

Really, any tips I can get will be super appreciated!

Throgg is quite a bit larger than a regular Troll if I'm not mistaken.
I never took the plunge to buy the model cause it was 50 €urobucks for a chunk of Finecast, but the store picture sure looked great.

Anyway I think you'd be better off working from a plastic Minotaur as base or something like that and just swap the head.
If you are set on using the river troll I'd still try to get my hands on some different legs and arms, like from a bigger monster, since the body is massive enough to support that unless you are comfortable with sculpting them yourself.

You can get 3rd party trolls too btw, Gribbly makes this 'Troll King' for example.
Mom Miniaturas sells some pretty large Trolls for only a few bucks as well and there is a whole bunch of companies that do Blood Bowl Miniatures, some of those might have a nice Troll sculpt as well.

>Throgg is quite a bit larger than a regular Troll if I'm not mistaken.
quite a bit, actually. I got in as a gift from a friend when he first came out, but I fucked up painting him on several levels, hence why I wanna make a new- home-made one.

I do want the River Troll as a main base, but I agree with the arms and legs. I'm considering cutting the legs at the joints and groin, then make them more standing up than hunched over. As for adding a bit more height to the torso, I think I might saw it in half, up until the back, the cut along the backfat, then add some "patting" with bits of plasticard to make him longer and finally use greenstuff to make it more natural.

Still need to fix on a weapon and try to make one of the heads a bit more ferocious, as well as add a great deal of trophies and shit.

Hell, you can even make a Word document and use save as PDF these days or take any other kind of printable computer file and use a pdf printer.

It really depends on how much time you're planning to invest in it. I know a few lazy fags who did similar things but all they did was drybrush two colors and say "look, it's painted now"

It's hard and time consuming to do it the right way.

WB Sicaran

>It's hard and time consuming to do it the right way.
I think the LOTR army of the dead miniatures are a pretty spectacular example of how it's done well.

If it's supposed to be tyranid hybrid then I would think typical tyranid colours would be good to make that obvious, purples and reds would contrast with the rest of the model too adding more interest.

looks great

Paint the talons black, the carapace on them purple and the bone.. bone?

welp, posted wrong photo.

This is what i'm working on!

nice goblin

niec goblin, would paint the face a bit better though

Looking good!

I found a thing

The older I get the better the LotR minis look to me.
I never was a big fan of the book or the movies, but I love their down to earth look and truescale proportions a lot.

Wish they weren't quite as expensive these days.

D-dayum, those highlights...

Any way to do this without an airbrush? I've tried but failed horribly but I suspect it was just my lack of talent.

Veeeery thin paints and a lot of patience

I used washes but sadly gravity and round barrels of battle cannon size do not work well together.

I'm dreading starting over since I've managed to get a good looking grime and oily look on the rest of the knight.

Washes are meant to run away, you want glazes or paints with a lot of glaze medium and some flow improver.

Great job user
Looking good, +1 for lopsided titties.

For the head tentacles, you could pin in some paper clips or similar as a solid base for the green stuff extensions.

looks good, are you planning on doing any weathering?

where did you get these skellies? are they GW ones? i want some skellies but i couldnt find any thast looked good, and those are great. are they plastic?

It looks like these are the plastic GW ones.

working on an assault ram firing its meltas before an attak, might need to adjust the angle and length a bit …

You are a faggot or you are not. Despite what tg thinks it ebbs and flows, you don't simply come one by contemplating doing something faggy. You already were thinking about it like a fat dong.
You were already a faggot all along. Doing it or not doing in now won't change that. Might as well do it.

The chalices are upside down tho?
Blood Spillers? Hemo-Tippers? Blood Angels would not like the wastefulness.

I don't think he is going to have time to pull up. Kamikaze Wolves.

anyone know of a company that makes scenic bases larger than 120mm?

Latest progress on my first rhino. Next step is to do the non yellow parts of the front/top.

bitsofwar.com/home/431-windfall-bases-round-130mm.html

sarissa-precision.com/130mm_Round_Base_Pack/p1603368_15453221.aspx

base-x-of-war.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=718

ebay.ca/itm/130mm-round-resin-urban-industrial-scenic-base-mechanicus-onager-dunecrawler/222038052724?hash=item33b27fcf74

secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=79_30_105&products_id=915&zenid=b6bb47590962c83ea4b55ee3a5b8ab05

After a quick google search. Or you could pay me to make customs ;)

Anyone know if I should highlight the edgeplates like I do for my infantry? I use a light yellow, similar to GW dorn yellow.

I need to find a way to use putty to fill in the cracks in the plates for my next rhino, I am not happy how these turned out.

For some reason when I left the two top plates out to dry from me magnetizing and gluing them, the paint bubbled a little bit and they look kind of shitty.

The starboard one looks especialy bad...

The black lines that some other sperglords gargled sperg over previously really just need some definition and depth. Some "carefully" placed leadbelcher on the inner portion of all the black will do wonders with a tiny highlight on the upper edge of the black between it and the yellow armour for that depth. Dark Reaper would be a good colour for that, but grey with black mixed to just shy of black will do in a pinch.
Otherwise, coming along nicely.

Yeah I was really bummed out to that reaction and I am making a real effort to fix them.

I was going to use runefang steel at the end like in this video: youtube.com/watch?v=uLqi6yyGt-k

What would the dark reaper be good for? I'm afraid I don't know that color.

Pic attached is my idea of what you are talking about.

Also, a graphite pencil is great for adding damage. You may even get away with using a nice sharpened pencil to do the work in place of the leadbelcher paint recommended above, just be aware that it will easily smudge (which can be useful if used appropriately), and you will have to clear coat seal your model when done. But it might be easier for you to control your application within the black areas.

You can also run the edge of the pencil along choice edges of the armour that you think would see the most wear and tear from regular usage. Even make tiny asterisks like bullets that pinged harmlessly off the armour, but still chipped the paint job.

Some examples on my own recent rusty terrain are attached.

Don't worry about it, mate. I do that kind of chipped paint on all my vehicles. It's going to look better once it's done.

>door, old stormbolter, keypad, skulls and lights completely uniform yellow

But why would you do that? That piece of scenery looks great, why not take the extra time and paint it properly?

thanks, i guess i was too tired to look properly

Anyone have a good tip on painting vehicle lights to make them seem luminescent?

paint the darkest shade of the light softly on nearby panels or metals to make it look like it's reflecting

The easy and in my opinion bad looking option:
Point airbrush at the surrounding parts and pull trigger.

The slightly more arduous solution:
make the light bright in the middle with darker shades towards the edges, a dark shadow directly around it and then a light glaze on surrounding parts.

I has no airbrush.

I think I will try this On the subject of those laser beams....

Is it possible to do something similar with a bolter round for my picture here?

The IW underfoot seems so..... inconvenienced, I want him to look like he is really being smashed. Maybe firing back at his enemy?

sand down his back a bit to make it look like he's being pressed or crushed into the ground, maybe throw his arms out a bit at unnatural angles

Better shot.

>What would the dark reaper be good for?

To add depth to the chipped armour paint.
The upper highlight will give the illusion that the yellow paint is higher, then the black Manufactorum basecoat, then the exposed armour below.
Simple edge highlight to break up the border between the upper part of the black and the lower part of the yellow where there is damage.
Just to top though edges/lines.

>I'm afraid I don't know that color.
>RE: Dark Reaper

That is okay, as I said, you can mix what you have.

Take your gray, cut it with a bit of your darkest yellow used on the tank and then add a tiny bit of black.
So, like 10:2:1 grey:yellow:black
Add a bit more black in there slowly til it is shaded nicely. *Almost* black, but noticably different with a hint of that grey still apparent.

Thin sufficiently and then apply with your tiniest brush.

When I get around to basing all of my stuff, I am thinking of doing this: youtube.com/watch?v=6qlI4I9Ziu0 , I will make this model crunched into the pavement.

The bolter arm is what I am not sure what to do with.

>completely uniform yellow
Not only was no yellow used at all, it's not even remotely uniform. Thanks for the input, but I will save the salt for later weathering techniques.

Oh cool, thanks for the pic.

it might be tricky to do firing effects with a non-laser weapon, maybe look up some winners of Golden Demon since that kind of stuff tends to get picked often

Alrighty, I don't have to catch the actual bolt.

What would be cool is a big gash in the leg or a bolt crater.

maybe like a line of armour chinks and smashes running up the leg like he was firing as he was knocked down

Nice idea, I'll take a look and see what I can do.

After some 15 years of doing Ork skin a certain way I mixed it up and went for a more natural tone, I'm quite happy with it

You should be.
Look pretty great.

What happened to his nips?

all hail Nicegreen, the Needless of Nipples

Bretty gud

His Chestplate still needs to be fixed on :) would have been too tough to paint his face

I think I may name my Wolf Brother Summoning Sorcerer similarly.
Asgeir Halkell, the Needless of Nipples, Prince of the Eternal Crimson Drip.

in my group we informally refer to any unit larger than a standard infantryman as a 'big boy' be it tank, dragon, or whatever
"I'm going to buy some bigger boys because the big boys im using arent as big as your big boys'
'woah look at this big boy'
'whos shooting? those big boys at the big boys over there'

First attempt was pretty much a failure. These are the only decent 4 of the 15.
Pretty sure I know what to do to fix it.
Also, what ratio of yellow to blue GS would you recommend for this? Traditional 60 40 mixture?
I did maybe 80 20 or 70 30 for this attempt.

imo you should invest in a little silicone and resin.
Casts are gonna be way, way better and production would speed up as well, which is a factor to consider if you do this for your entire army.
The masks themselves are also fairly simple, not a lot of places airbubbles could be trapped, so they are a good place to start with building molds too.

I feel like he's more metal than a measly breastplate