WIP - Painting, Converting and Showcasing your work General

Faggot confirmed.

Asking again if anyone has used GW gemstone paints. I don't think they look that great and I haven't seen anyone other than Duncan use them here. m.youtube.com/watch?v=XUBtItceuec

What's an effective alternative to painting gems that doesn't involve blending little dots?

woot for actually really useful intro pic.
I've had very mixed results with Green stuff and that's super helpful.

They're just candy coats, they don't look like gems.

I think to use them properly you have to paint your gem white, then the top quarter (in the upper right) black. Then use these things.
I haven't tried them and likely won't. I prefer to paint mine by hand with regular ("Layer" within GW) paints.

Is this too big for a Kustom Meka Dredd?

Sounds like more effort than just painting gems the old way. I see a lot of "I don't want to paint gems" people use them though and from a distance it looks acceptable so why the hell not. Not recommended for people who want good looking models.

I bought them because I compulsively buy all new GW paints to keep the entire sortiment full ever since I got that goddamn 'full range box'.

They don't come close to handpainted gems, but if you aim for tabletop standard it's a quick and easy solution. Actually that's an understatement. You could just as well paint the gem any base colour and gloss varnish it and it'd be about as good a result.

But the sparkles user, THE SPARKLES

Fuckkk the sparkles. My gems, like my lenses, optics and shit get 4 to 6 layer colours and their fucking white dot in the top corner.

Not that guy, but if you can't use basic grammar people will think you're an idiot.

You, Sir, are and idiot.

Also, you forgot a comma.

Working on this guy right now, about to apply the finishing touches. Nothing too fancy, obviously. Same goes for the basic conversion. The pointing hand was nicked from the Grey Knight Terminator kit, since the stormcast are really lacking in terms of open hands.
In retrospect, I probably choose the colors for the bird poorly. The wingtips are too similar to the knight's wings and clash with the purple in a bad way.

I like it, I think you're right about the bird though. Maybe consider painting it the same color as the wings, or if you don't want to totally redo it then just repaint the purple slightly more blue ish.

I've used them more for effect paint than I have for gemstones. They work alright I guess.

Friendly reminder to report intentional shitposting, the more reports it gets the faster it gets dealt with

I think you're an idiot by virtue of just being you. Grammar is far from relevant and I certainly wouldn't think otherwise if you put an apostrophe where required or not.

Since this is the only painting thread up I figure I can throw this up here.

I'm looking at making some painting tutorials for the upcoming Dark Souls board game (and maybe other cool Vidya board games like Doom and X-com).

I'm planning a bunch of basing tutorials to fit different dark souls locations. Would it be better to just make a tutorial for each area and then link them in the video description (Bob appears in X Y Z location, click the link for the one you want to copy) or to include the basing tutorial in each of the videos and just selection a location myself?

I wonder how those would look near the cables of power weapons.

Size is a little on the small side and skinny. Biggest problem is that it looks to be made of nothing but junk you had lying around. It really doesn't look very good.

There's a bunch of stuff left to do, this is just an early mock-up.

>Add more plates to side of gun
>Add bracing metal arm and backpack
>Greenstuff face-covering visor
>Fix chainsaw handles
>Fix left hand to hold said chainsaw

Green armour, gray helm, black visor. Gun glows green, chainsaw is yellow. Red, sandy base with skulls and dead daemon.

I hope I'm close enough that there's a resemblance at least.

Anyone got any good ideas for Cephalyx colour schemes? dont want to do just the black on black colour scheme the studio does

maybe go for really dark reds and browns instead

Links at bottom of page.

privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?210793-Cephalyx-painting-schemes

>Biggest problem is that it looks to be made of nothing but junk you had lying around.
>Dis iz a problem

The picture isn't great but it looks fine to me. I would suggest adding more scrap plating and rivets though.

>it looks to be made of nothing but junk you had lying around.

Literally the best part of playing with or against Orks.

It looks like it was made up of junk YOU had lying around, not like it was made up of junk the Orks had lying around.

There's a huge difference.

i guess the first one, but remember to mention it at the beginning of the video so that even retards know

I'm not the guy who posted the original model mang, I just like how it looks

>Biggest problem is that it looks to be made of nothing but junk you had lying around. It really doesn't look very good.

Non Ork detected. Advice garbage bound.

It looks great. This guy has no Ork vision. It's not even base coated ffs.

It looks terrible. There is a difference between Orky and "he just slapped shit together"

Here's a better picture.

Which brand of paint tastes the, and why is it Vallejo?

>Non Ork detected. Advice garbage bound.
>This guy has no Ork vision.

Prepare for 20 posts of anger by this guy. I mean that guy, sorry.

>You must take my advice/opinion or I will yell at you!

This is the first time I've ever made a model that I didn't just glue together from a kit. What would I need to do to make it look less like it's component parts?

How about not making it random parts just slapped together in a rough shape?

Is not base coating an issue? Should I have done that instead (I thought I did)? And what effect would it have on the final paintjob?

Mind, he's not done being painted yet and is missing a missile.

This is another one I'm working on. Any advice or critiques?

You're again just gluing random shit together. It doesn't look like anything but random shit glued together. It has no logic to it and it looks bad because of it. Why is there a pen top there? Why the lego bricks? None of this makes sense in universe or in scale. It's just.. there.

i am not the mad/trolling guy, but the main problem to me is the body, the rest looks ok, but the body is a big chunk of polished metal, it really looks like you made it out of a can, you should cut it up and or add metal parts,if you want to make it even better consider every part you used and hhoe the orks could find it, for example the screw also doesn't look natural vbecause it's man sized not model sized, but that's not much of an issue.

Well I plan to put little steel plates on him.

Last I checked this is a Work in Progress thread.
If it's a wank at beautifully painted and complete minis thread then let's just call it that instead.

How about you tell me what you would have done so I can become better and you have more shit to wank about in these threads.

Here you go. Harp away. 19 to go.

But they only count if you say something new.

Harp harp harp.

>Non Ork detected. Advice garbage bound.

The left leg doesnt make sense. I feel like it needs something to make it look both sturdier and more flexable.

I use that yellow grey type too. I don't find it to be a suitable gs replacement though. It's good for gap filling, bulking out something to put gs over later, terrain, that sort of job but its a bit too "crumbly" to do fine details with. And by crumbly I mean it will crack apart if messed with compared to greenstuff having a bit of a rubbery response to being messed with.

How do people make all FW armies? Or honestly even assemble all-FW models? I'm fucking baffled.

I tried to put together a FW conversion kit the other day, a wraithseer if you must know, and I wanted to fucking kill myself by the end of it. The resin looked like shit, I had to fill in all kinds of bubbles and file off mouldlines the size of your ass. Nothing would stick to anything, which was a lot of fun when it came to very small pieces, and trying to get it to stand on the base.

And I got a supposedly good kit! Nothing was really bent too badly, and it came with all of the parts, though much of it broke when clipping the pieces off. What a goddamn nightmare.

1. I use Gorilla glue oh and a de-greaser dish soap warm bath before assembly
2. You can get replacement parts, FW has very good consumer service, just provide pics of said fucked up items and I imagine some proof of it actually being FW.
3. FW is expensive stuff and it's in your best interest to look up guides to working with either resin or FW specifically so you don't make mistakes. You've gotta be extra careful with the stuff, even removing pieces from the Jersey barricades

>Last I checked this is a Work in Progress thread.
The end result of your previous combination of glued together garbage looked like shit, and your new combination of glued together garbage is shaping up to look like shit, both because of what the less constructive user mentions here Instead of gluing household items together to create what looks like a 5-year-old's arts and crafts project, take a moment to look long and hard at pictures of Ork kits and art.
They look ramshackle, but they're still completely logical. While there are armor plates of many different sources and materials, they're all properly hammered and riveted to actually function as armor and have the textures you'd expect to see on metal pieces. The legs and arms actually have pistons, cables and cogs that serve the purpose of rotating joints. There are engines, complete with exhausts and sometimes intakes depending on the type of vehicle. Weapons have muzzles, triggers, ammo storage and all the mechanisms you'd expect from a gun (unless you're a gun nut, then I guess you could find all sorts of minuscule details missing).
Pic related, the famous Mr. Potato Head Stompa. It's one of those "crazy Ork ideas" and he's almost completely scratch built but he still seems to be a completely functional robot that will match the Orky style of the army that surrounds him.
While the construction of him is quite advanced, you can still find inspiration and tips from the build process found here: irondogstudios.com/images/tater/mek_tater.html

My point is that there is a sort of controlled chaos to Ork vehicles that actually makes sense. If you want your models to look good, you should strive to achieve that style.
I say this as a longtime Ork and Skaven player: I'm tired of seeing ugly scratch builds get justified with the flawed logic of "if Orks make things out of scrap, then I can make something out of scrap and it will automatically look good because Orks".

...

18 to go!

i rememvber an user made something like that some time ago, did he/you get inspired by the blog or is it the same person?

It's not that 200% mad user's, he posted it as an example of how the other user's kans should have looked because of his superior tastes.

i meant posted something like the model,not the arguement he is making. Looking at the pics i am pretty sure it's the same person

Current WIP of my first LR. I am painting the inside first.

My steps are:

Paint inside
magnetize for mockup like this: youtube.com/watch?v=FL-mLy71Wnk
assemble hull
prime/paint hull

How easy is it to glue normal ball joint ork heads onto the snapfit AOBR orks? Little greenstuffing maybe?

...

Are there decent guides to sub-assembly around? I'm starting to get into working on vehicles, and I'm having trouble wrapping my head around it.

In general for say, imperial vehicles/tanks, what would be good pieces to leave unglued before starting to paint them?

you need to cut and or carve, depending on how well you do that you might only need to make a little gap filling, or not even that.

i don't understand the point of the question, there is no real perfect spot, you can do however you want, some people even paint full assembled or still on the sprues.
Just keep in mind that the more you assemble the more parts will become harder to reach, though those same parts will be hard to see so you can just make them badly,but if you want perfection you can do like this loving user who wants every crevice to be painted,but keep in mind that painting before assembly makes it a bit harder to make coherent highlighting if you choose a source of light. Really it's a matter of preference , there is no wrong, just what you feel like doing,even if you don't like the way you assembled it won't be a tragedy.(also consider using blue tack or magnets to get the ability to change your grade of assembly and the best of both worlds

Ohhhh you!

I made the mistake of painting the exterior of my rhino before gluing together.

This time I am going to assemble the hull so that I can GS the parts that don't line up.

Pic is finalized rhino.

I just feel like I won't know what spots will be difficult to reach until I assemble the model, and by then it would feel like it's too late to bother.

I'm mostly just looking for advice or a rule of thumb on when I should stop assembling a model, so that I can still paint all of it effectively. That way I know when to stop without having to fuck up my own model first.

it alfready looks good, but you could use some better yellow glazing.(or are you still working on it?). what did you use GW's yelow glaze?

Cassandora yellow

It's the same one I have on the LR, the difference being I didn't realize washing large plates like that would look different.

So I have to be careful.

Can I get some advice on how to make a color look faded? Worn out by sun or dust or what have you. I've been trying to work out a color scheme for my Eldar for ages; I like Iyanden's lore, but their color scheme is horrible.

I saw on the back of a Wraithlord box an Iyanden wraith colored bone instead of yellow, and that gave me the idea to do "ancient" wraiths that have maybe been sitting dormant on some crone world or something. So now I'm looking for what I can use instead of blue to go with the bone that's replacing yellow.

find a reference pic first, it will help you and us helping you. But maybe mixing some grey and white to desaturate colours will help.

This is the picture I was talking about. If you compare it with GW's usual scheme for Iyanden, you'll notice the stark difference between the yellow there and the bone color seen here.

I'm trying to bring that blue in line with the bone color in its... I guess desaturation.

I want to paint warhammer 40k figures for fun but I am a beginner and I feel that I would fuck up so many figurines. Also, I live in a pretty enclosed environment I hear spray painting is needed for this kind of stuff. Fuck.. Is there any hope?

It's just well shaded. copy what they did with slightly darker version of the color you use for the base.

Use paint on primers

Paint Space Marines. They are very forgiving and good for getting a handle on brush control.

are necrons forgiving? They are the only 40k race I am interested in. Possibly orks but orks seem really unforgiving.

orks are ez

>paint green
>wash green
>highlight green
>brown wash on everything else
>simple highlights on the obvious edges

Orks are easy to paint

That was me, and yes the original Tater Titan inspired Mr. Potatork Head

I see.. but don't orkz wear clothing which makes them a bit more... diverse than green?

Necrons seem the easiest to paint to me. Maybe I am not seeing something about them though. My goal is to eventually become skilled enough to paint rusted necrons

Who's ready for some KKK?

I made all the fabric cream on all of these models so it's just by chance that my executioner came out with a KKK hood, it wasn't intentional.

I have the full Justice crew done except for the scales, who I need to convert. Justice and Judge need their leg pegs painting. 2 Death marshals and Austringers need an ink wash and they're pretty much done.

I think I might need to build the other Death marshal as well so I have Justice's intro box.

well yeah but you just paint the clothes then wash them then do a gentle highlight on the folds. Its ez.

as for
>rust

theres 2 ez ways to do rust

either buy a rust weathering liquid, or you dry brush metal and orange over a metal base

Round 2 of the GS duplicates with the flash removed.
The Milliput ones are still curing, but I am not expecting much... the material seems more crumbly.

I would say just slap some more armour into a face looking configuration (eyebrow armour is very fashionable) over where everything joins to hide the seams a little there.

Needs more random bits of plate bolted on.

Either way, I'd be happy to see that as is on the other side of the table.

>greenstuff

/toy/ reporting here from Scale Models and Customs Generals. That greenstuff is overpriced as fuck for what you get at a time.

Do yourself a favor and buy the two part Aves Apoxie. It's not as toxic and you can smoothen it out with plain water too. Seriously, the smallest you can buy it in is two tubs. TWO. TUBS. For minis, that's nearly a lifetime's supply worth. A damned lifetime's worth of greenstuff equivalent.

lel unless it was a direct reference

i am interested, how different do they behave?(also greenstuff is not toxic)

Hello fellow modeler-kun

Milliput is also very good.

If you know how to use both, then Apoxie Sculpt is the same.

The more diluted it is when the two parts are blended, the softer it takes to sculpting. From what I've seen others do, you can build up the sculpt in layers this way, with general shape done and hardened, and then another smaller layer of detail.

It can be sanded and chiseled away with when it's hard.

I haven't tried molding and casting with it, but the long curing time means that you pretty much have a one (to one and a half) hour window (or more) of sculpting I guess? The last time I did so, it was using putty molds of another kind (Milliput or plumbers?) and then the actual stuff I put in was Apoxie Sculpt.

For the most part, you can get like, a one pound tub of this stuff for about $17.

So about $20-30 for a near lifetime supply's worth. Cheaper than Milliput or Greenstuff for equivalent weight.

Without shelling out for resin bases, how could I make some "eldar ruins" themed bases?

I've tried looking for some generic pieces that I can just glue into my models, but I've had very little success in this venture.

Tiny wraithbone churches?

If only it were so easy, user.

Is plasticard decent for "shattered" bases? I've never worked with it before.

Just think of it as stiff cardboard sheets that need to be stacked for thickness.

Shouldn't be too hard then, with any luck.

Greenstuff world do some nice textured rollers you can use on putty that would make idea Eldar ruins.

wut?