/hwg/ - Historical Wargames General

First Ashore On Guadacanal Edition

Previous thread: Get in here, post games, miniatures, questions, whatever you like.

List of mini providers:
docs.google.com/document/d/1uGaaOSvSTqpwPGAvLPY3B5M2WYppDhzXdjwMpqRxo9M/edit

List of Historical Tactical, Strategic, and Military Drill treatises:
pastebin.com/BfMeGd6R

ZunTsu Gameboxes:
mediafire.com/folder/yaokao3h1o4og/ZunTsu_GameBoxes

/hwg/ Steam Group:
steamcommunity.com/groups/tghwg/

Games, Ospreys & References folders:
mediafire.com/folder/lu95l5mgg06d5/Ancient
mediafire.com/folder/81ck8x600cas4/Medieval
mediafire.com/folder/w6m41ma3co51e/Horse_and_Musket
mediafire.com/folder/vh1uqv8gipzo1/Napoleonic
mediafire.com/folder/bbpscr0dam7iy/ACW
mediafire.com/folder/bvdtt01gh105d/Victorian
mediafire.com/folder/b35x147vmc6sg/World_War_One
mediafire.com/folder/z8a13ampzzs88/World_War_Two
mediafire.com/folder/z8i8t83bysdwz/Vietnam_War
mediafire.com/folder/7n3mcn9hlgl1t/Modern

mediafire.com/folder/8tatre3vd10yv/Avalon_Hill
mediafire.com/folder/pq6ckzqo3g6e6/Field_Of_Glory
mediafire.com/folder/r2mff8tnl8bjy/GDW
mediafire.com/folder/whmbo8ii2evqh//SPI
mediafire.com/folder/ws6yi58d2oacc/Strategy_&_Tactics_Magazine
mediafire.com/folder/lx05hfgbic6b8/Naval_Wargaming
mediafire.com/folder/s1am77aldi1as/Wargames

Other urls found in this thread:

mediafire.com/download/cghxf3475qy46aq/Wargaming Compendium.pdf
mediafire.com/folder/alj31go19tmpm/SAGA
mediafire.com/download/o5x6blwoczojmfr/Black Powder.pdf
mediafire.com/folder/n7jmdnlv1n0ju/Bolt_Action
mega.nz/#F!XsVD0KgT!twB1NWiFE3aKXK_O1EZ4pA
mediafire.com/download/uttov32riixm9b0/Warhammer Ancient Battles 2E.pdf
mediafire.com/download/ta7aj1erh7sap1t/Warhammer Ancient Battles - Armies of Antiquity v2.pdf
mediafire.com/download/cifld8bl3uy2i5g/Warmaster Ancients.pdf
mediafire.com/download/3emyvka11bnna1b/Warmaster Ancient Armies.pdf
mediafire.com/folder/d9x0dbxrpjg48/Advanced_Squad_Leader
mediafire.com/folder/28i9gevqws518/Impetus
mediafire.com/folder/cb83cg7ays4l1/Battleground_WWII
mega.co.nz/#!jxgCWTYD!FCp52DAqIUc-EM-TsRsWv7fB92nJ3kkzKsNcD_urI5Q
mediafire.com/folder/7b5027l7oaz05/Modelling_&_Painting_Guides
mega.co.nz/#F!C9sQhbwb!NVnD4jvUn5inOrPJIAkBhA
mega.co.nz/#F!b5tgXRwa!mzelRNrKPjiT8gP7VrS-Jw
mediafire.com/folder/eupungrg93xgb/Next_War
mega.nz/#F!SolyxarJ!GUg6zWBStfznr6BvYedghQ
mega.nz/#F!i1N3xZxL!C6fQ3Z8o2U0gtk5kdXuVcQ
mediafire.com/download/odifq18ccefj1ia/Osprey - CAM 018 - Guadalcanal 1942.pdf
mediafire.com/download/9t17po82xwc0x3l/Osprey - CBT 008 - US Marine vs Japanese Infantryman 1942-43.pdf
mediafire.com/download/uc14gdpupcbcjju/Osprey - WAR 095 - Japanese Infantryman 1937-45.pdf
mediafire.com/download/5n6m5mnhmbzy85n/Osprey - WAR 109 - US Marine Corps Raider 1942–43.pdf
mega.nz/#F!CJcFhCAb!sAPQmmdqPRemd7p6fDfXKA
plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=835
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_Cambronne
airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.org/1_72_Waterloo_1815_about24719.html
youtube.com/watch?v=MqLoLKlbVuU
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

>Wargaming Compendium
mediafire.com/download/cghxf3475qy46aq/Wargaming Compendium.pdf
>Saga
mediafire.com/folder/alj31go19tmpm/SAGA
>Black Powder
mediafire.com/download/o5x6blwoczojmfr/Black Powder.pdf
>Bolt Action
mediafire.com/folder/n7jmdnlv1n0ju/Bolt_Action
>Hail Caesar
mega.nz/#F!XsVD0KgT!twB1NWiFE3aKXK_O1EZ4pA
>Warhammer Ancient battles 2.0
mediafire.com/download/uttov32riixm9b0/Warhammer Ancient Battles 2E.pdf
mediafire.com/download/ta7aj1erh7sap1t/Warhammer Ancient Battles - Armies of Antiquity v2.pdf
>Warmaster Ancients
mediafire.com/download/cifld8bl3uy2i5g/Warmaster Ancients.pdf
mediafire.com/download/3emyvka11bnna1b/Warmaster Ancient Armies.pdf
>Advanced Squad Leader
mediafire.com/folder/d9x0dbxrpjg48/Advanced_Squad_Leader
>Impetus
mediafire.com/folder/28i9gevqws518/Impetus
>Battleground WWII
mediafire.com/folder/cb83cg7ays4l1/Battleground_WWII
>By Fire And Sword
mega.co.nz/#!jxgCWTYD!FCp52DAqIUc-EM-TsRsWv7fB92nJ3kkzKsNcD_urI5Q
>Modelling & painting guides
mediafire.com/folder/7b5027l7oaz05/Modelling_&_Painting_Guides
>Twilight 2000/2013 RPG
mega.co.nz/#F!C9sQhbwb!NVnD4jvUn5inOrPJIAkBhA
>Phoenix Command RPG
mega.co.nz/#F!b5tgXRwa!mzelRNrKPjiT8gP7VrS-Jw
>Next War (GMT)
mediafire.com/folder/eupungrg93xgb/Next_War
>Battlegroup
mega.nz/#F!SolyxarJ!GUg6zWBStfznr6BvYedghQ
>Fleet Series
mega.nz/#F!i1N3xZxL!C6fQ3Z8o2U0gtk5kdXuVcQ

Desired scans :
Black Powder supplements
Rank and File supplements
Harpoon 3 & 4 supplements
Hail Caesar! Late Antiquity to Early Medieval Army List
Force on Force supplements
Hind Commander
At Close Quarters
War and Conquest
Germany Strikes!
Bolt Action: Empire in Flames

August 7th in military history:

322 BC – Battle of Crannon between Athens and Macedonia.
626 – The Avar and Slav armies leave the siege of Constantinople.
1427 – The Visconti of Milan's fleet is destroyed by the Venetians on the Po River.
1461 – The Ming dynasty Chinese military general Cao Qin stages a coup against the Tianshun Emperor.
1714 – The Battle of Gangut: The first important victory of the Russian Navy.
1782 – George Washington orders the creation of the Badge of Military Merit to honor soldiers wounded in battle. It is later renamed the Purple Heart.
1789 – The United States Department of War is established.
1791 – American troops destroy the Miami town of Kenapacomaqua near the site of present-day Logansport, Indiana in the Northwest Indian War.
1794 – U.S. President George Washington invokes the Militia Acts of 1792 to suppress the Whiskey Rebellion in western Pennsylvania.
1819 – Simón Bolívar triumphs over Spain in the Battle of Boyacá.
1940 – World War II: Alsace-Lorraine is annexed by the Third Reich.
1942 – World War II: The Battle of Guadalcanal begins as the United States Marines initiate the first American offensive of the war with landings on Guadalcanal and Tulagi in the Solomon Islands.
1998 – The United States embassy bombings in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania and Nairobi, Kenya kill approximately 212 people.
1999 – The Chechnya-based Islamic International Brigade invades neighboring Dagestan.
2008 – The start of the Russo-Georgian War over the territory of South Ossetia.

It is 74 years since the Battle of Tulagi and Gavutu–Tanambogo, a land battle of the Pacific campaign of World War II, fought between the forces of the Imperial Japanese Navy and Allied (mainly United States (U.S.) Marine) ground forces. It took place during the initial Allied landings in the Guadalcanal campaign.

In the battle, U.S. Marines, under the overall command of U.S. Major General Alexander Vandegrift, successfully landed and captured the islands of Tulagi, Gavutu, and Tanambogo among which the Japanese Navy had constructed a naval and seaplane base. The landings were fiercely resisted by the Japanese Navy troops who, outnumbered and outgunned by the Allied forces, fought and died almost to the last man.

At the same time that the landings on Tulagi and Gavutu–Tanambogo were taking place, Allied troops were also landing on nearby Guadalcanal. In contrast to the intense fighting on Tulagi and Gavutu, the landings on Guadalcanal were essentially unopposed. The landings on both Tulagi and Guadalcanal initiated the six-month-long Guadalcanal campaign and a series of combined-arms battles between Allied and Japanese forces in the Solomon Islands area.

At 08:00 on August 7, two battalions of U.S. Marines made an unopposed landing on the western shore of Tulagi about halfway between the two ends of the oblong-shaped island. Beds of coral near the shore kept the landing craft from reaching the shoreline. The Marines, however, were able to wade the remaining 100 m (110 yd) without hindrance from the Japanese forces, who were apparently taken by surprise by the landings and had yet to begin any organized resistance. At this time, the Japanese forces on Tulagi and Gavutu, a detachment of the 3rd Kure SNLF plus members of the Yokohama Air Group, signaled their commander at Rabaul that they were under attack, were destroying their equipment and papers, and signed off with the message, "Enemy troop strength is overwhelming, We will defend to the last man."

Marines of secured the northwest end of Tulagi without opposition and then joined Edson's Raiders in their advance towards the southeastern end of the island. The Japanese defenses included dozens of tunneled caves dug into the hill's limestone cliffs and machinegun pits protected by sandbags. The Marines reached these defenses near dusk, realized that they did not have enough daylight left for a full-scale attack, and dug in for the night.

During the night, the Japanese attacked the Marine lines five times. The attacks consisted of frontal charges along with individual and small group infiltration efforts towards Edson's command post that at times resulted in hand to hand combat with the Marines. The Japanese temporarily broke through the Marine lines and captured a machine gun, but were thrown back soon after. After taking a few more casualties, the Marine lines held throughout the rest of the night. The Japanese suffered heavy losses in the attacks. During the night, one Marine—Edward H. Ahrens—killed 13 Japanese who assaulted his position before he was killed.

At daybreak, Japanese infiltrators hiding under the porch of the former British colonial headquarters shot and killed three Marines. Within five minutes, other Marines killed them with grenades. Later that morning, the Marines, after landing reinforcements, surrounded Hill 281 and the ravine, pounded both locations with mortar fire throughout the morning, and then assaulted the two positions, utilizing improvised explosive charges to kill the Japanese defenders taking cover in the many caves and fighting positions spread throughout the hill and ravine. Employing the improvised explosives, the individual Japanese fighting positions were destroyed. Significant Japanese resistance ended by the afternoon, although a few stragglers were found and killed over the next several days. In the battle for Tulagi, 307 Japanese and 45 U.S. troops died. Three Japanese soldiers were taken prisoner.

The nearby islets of Gavutu and Tanambogo housed the Japanese seaplane base as well as 536 Japanese naval personneland Korean and Japanese civilian technicians and laborers from a construction unit. The Japanese on both islets were well entrenched in bunkers and caves constructed on and in the two hills. Also, the two islets were mutually supportive since each was in machine gun range of the other.

Gavutu was assaulted by the U.S. Marine 1st Parachute Battalion consisting of 397 men. The assault was scheduled for noon because there were not enough aircraft to provide air cover for all the landings at the same time. The preceding naval bombardment had damaged the seaplane ramp, forcing the naval landing craft to land the Marines in a more exposed location on a nearby small beach. Japanese machine gun fire began inflicting heavy casualties, killing or wounding one in ten of the landing Marines as they scrambled inland in an attempt to get out of the crossfire coming from the two islets.

Surviving Marines were able to deploy machine guns to provide suppressing fire on Gavutu's caves, allowing more Marines to push inland from the landing area. Seeking cover, the Marines became scattered and were quickly pinned down. Marines began suppressive fire with machine guns and mortars on the Japanese machine gun emplacements on Tanambogo. Shortly thereafter, American dive bombers dropped several bombs on Tanambogo, diminishing some of the volume of fire from that location.

After about two hours, Marines reached and climbed Hill 148. Working from the top, the Marines began clearing the Japanese fighting positions on the hill, most of which still remained, with explosive charges, grenades, and hand-to-hand combat. From the top of the hill, the Marines were also able to put increased suppressive fire on Tanambogo.

Most of the 240 Japanese defenders on Tanambogo were aircrew and maintenance personnel. Many of these were aircraft maintenance personnel and construction units not equipped for combat. One of the few Japanese soldiers captured recounts fighting armed with only hand sickles and poles. Incorrectly believing that Tanambogo was only lightly defended, Marines attempted an amphibious assault directly on Tanambogo shortly after dark on 7 August. Illuminated by fires started during a U.S. naval bombardment of the islet, the five landing craft carrying the Marines were hit by heavy fire as they approached the shore, with many of the U.S. Navy boatcrews being killed or wounded, as well as heavily damaging three of the boats. Realizing the position was untenable the Marine company commander ordered the remaining boats to depart with the wounded marines, and he and 12 men who had already landed sprinted across the causeway to cover on Gavutu. The Japanese on Tanambogo suffered 10 killed in the day's fighting.

Throughout the night, as the Japanese staged isolated attacks on the marines on Gavutu under the concealment of heavy thunderstorms.. At dawn the Marines prepared to assault Tanambogo. The Marines on Gavutu provided covering fire for the attack. In preparation for the assault, U.S. carrier-based dive bombers and naval gunfire bombardment were requested. After the carrier aircraft twice accidentally dropped bombs on the U.S. Marines on Gavutu, killing four of them, further carrier aircraft support was canceled. San Juan, however, placed its shells on the correct island and shelled Tanambogo for 30 minutes. The Marine assault began at 16:15, both by landing craft and across the causeway, and, with assistance from two marine Stuart light tanks, began making headway against the Japanese defenses.

One of the tanks which became stuck on a stump and isolated from its infantry support was surrounded by a "frenzied mob" of about 50 Japanese airmen. The Japanese set fire to the tank, killing two of its crew and severely beat the other two crewmembers before most of them were killed by Marine rifle fire. The Marines later counted 42 Japanese bodies around the burned-out hulk of the tank, including the corpses of the unit's executive officer and several of the seaplane pilots.

Throughout the day, the Marines methodically dynamited the caves, destroying most of them by 21:00. The few surviving Japanese conducted isolated attacks throughout the night, with hand to hand engagements occurring. By noon on 9 August, all Japanese resistance on Tanambogo ended. In the battle for Gavutu and Tanambogo, 476 Japanese defenders and 70 U.S. Marines or naval personnel died. Of the 20 Japanese prisoners taken during the battle, most were not actually Japanese combatants but Korean laborers belonging to a construction unit.

The Allies quickly turned the Tulagi anchorage, one of the finest natural harbors in the South Pacific, into a naval base and refueling station. During the Guadalcanal and Solomon Islands campaigns, Tulagi served as an important base for Allied naval operations.

This is a quintessential Pacific War battle, with Marines storming ashore in the face of solid Japanese defence, and fanatical fighting breaking out in the jungle. Perfect for any scale from skirmish to strategic, with air and naval elements too.

mediafire.com/download/odifq18ccefj1ia/Osprey - CAM 018 - Guadalcanal 1942.pdf
mediafire.com/download/9t17po82xwc0x3l/Osprey - CBT 008 - US Marine vs Japanese Infantryman 1942-43.pdf
mediafire.com/download/uc14gdpupcbcjju/Osprey - WAR 095 - Japanese Infantryman 1937-45.pdf
mediafire.com/download/5n6m5mnhmbzy85n/Osprey - WAR 109 - US Marine Corps Raider 1942–43.pdf

please no shitposting in this thread

glad you got it, worried that you wouldn't see it before the thread died
also, if anyone wants all of the old challenge magazines, here they are
mega.nz/#F!CJcFhCAb!sAPQmmdqPRemd7p6fDfXKA

...

would you rather be a pikeman or a musketeer?

A pikeman, because you get to carry a big stick and don't have to worry about blowing your face off.

No, you'd just have to worry about getting a big stick in your face ... as well as having my head blown off. (Pikemen were primary targets, remember.)

I'd rather have mine blown off, if it's all the same to you.
Preferably as a Dragoon in some raid on enemy supply lines (if you know what I mean)

I should have linked it here myself, thanks for posting it again. Definitely worth a look if you're a GDW fan.

I guess it depends on where and when? Early in the period it would have to be a pikeman, with musketeer becoming more popular as it wears on.

reminder that pikemen got paid more than soldiers carrying firearms, if that colours the decision at all.

pike and shot

In that period, pikes could get up to 17lbs. That's way too heavy for a big stick that won't help me much.

Besides, my job would be becoming obsolete. Maybe stick with pike until flintlocks rolled around, though, because matchlocks haha fuck off.

...

Unless we're talking landsknechts, where the arquebusiers received double pay.

I think in the TYW period most pikemen either cut the shafts down or simply threw it away and became musketeers. Not that a matchlock musket is that light to carry around.

Continuing East Front climate discussion from very end of last thread

Can anyone living in Dfb climate zone (purple color along the US-Canada border) comment on what color grass is throughout the year in un-irrigated areas?

Grass in Dsk such as eastern Ukraine will be tan or brown for most of the year

Most Doppelsöldner didn't carry ranged weapons, but some did.

Forgot pic

Napoleonic Newbie here - could anyone help identify the make & troops in pic related? Also what paints are recommended for painting these sort of plastics?

Those are the famous Grenadiers of the Old Guard. I'm going to take a guess that they're the Airfix Waterloo set. The standard bearer is missing his Eagle, for shame!

Thanks based user! Any tips on paints?

These days that's something I'm not an expert on, although there are definitely some knowledgeable anons around here somewhere. Lots of info online too, plenty of differing opinions. I do know that old tip about sealing them in detergent or similar first, to provide a nice seal you can then paint on. Looks like there's not a lot of flash to worry about, either (a little bit on one guy's foot there); I have a box-and-a-half of those guys myself from the early 80s, and they were pretty messy.

Undercoat with spray paint that is made for it. Army painter, Citadel or some other miniature specific undercoat spray is best. You can use other brands also, but beware, it might be thick enough to obscure all details. Spray couple of thin coats. You dont need complete coverage but try to hit as much as possible.

I recommend Vallejo paints. They come in handy dropper bottles, they have good selection of colours, and most importantly for me, they are acrylic. I hate usin enamel paints, thinners are just so much extra work when acrylic paints are just as good. Other good choices are Citadel and Army Painter. There are some others but I have no experience with those. Go check your local games shop for what they have. And remember to thin your paints! Milk-like consistency. Make a wet palette, it makes your life lot easier. Just google it and youll find easy instructions to make one, and ill bet you have everything you need at your house.

Check youtube for some instructional videos. WarhammerTVs videos with Duncan are good, he paints Warhammer-minis but techniques are pretty much same in historicals. Other good channel for painting tips is Doctor Faust's painting clinic.

Of course, if you dont want to get that involved, just get can of primer, some craft paints in colours of your liking, couple of brushes and get in there. Almost anything is better than grey plastic.

Every time I read about the fighting in the pacific it astonishes me how absolutely fucking brutal it was. Particularly this part:

>One of the tanks which became stuck on a stump and isolated from its infantry support was surrounded by a "frenzied mob" of about 50 Japanese airmen. The Japanese set fire to the tank, killing two of its crew and severely beat the other two crewmembers before most of them were killed by Marine rifle fire. The Marines later counted 42 Japanese bodies around the burned-out hulk of the tank, including the corpses of the unit's executive officer and several of the seaplane pilots.

Like what the fuck. It's as if the men from both sides just lost their fucking minds and went at each other like animals. If they mad a movie about that sort of shit people would call it out for being unrealistic.

This is the local (bolt action) japanese player's tactics down pat.

Thanks to your identifying, I found this review site. They recone these are the most accurate, but I actually like the face sculpts on the Airfix better: plasticsoldierreview.com/Review.aspx?id=835

I use to paint with citadel (on mainly warhammer), but their price & complexity of their new system puts me off. Vallejo & Army Painter were the sort of names I was looking for!

Actually, their new system is really easy if you are just going for tabletob quality for gaming purposes. You basically pick a color you want your mini to be, like red. Then go Base red -> red wash -> Highlight red or Drybrush red -> done. Fast and looks kinda ok from far. Also washes are nice, especially Agrax Earthshade, I use that for tons of stuff. And Citadel metallics are best there are.

But yeah, anything else and it just wont work. I've been changing from Citadel to Vallejo, I only buy Citadel metallics and washes anymore. And they use those damn pots. Even for airbrush line of paints. How am I supposed to get that paint from a pot into my airbrush?

>Then go Base red -> red wash -> Highlight red or Drybrush red -> done.
Three entirely different paints for one color instead of using orange to lighten up the red and dark brown for making a basecoat with red.

Works wonderfully. Buy PP's metallics, they are far superior, you get more for less. For washes, either Vallejo or Army Painter.

That epic clip has got me into Cambronne now! I think I'll have to paint them up as the last of the Guard!

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_Cambronne

forgot pic

Depends what you want to achieve. For more realistic colouring, yeah, oranges and browns with red. For more vibrant, deep and "clean" red, different shades of just red. And for those centerpieces, go from reddish brown, layering through many shades of red to couple of oranges, and bring it all together with red wash. Or wetblend them.

I could manage with just "red" mixed with off-white and black for shades, but for consistency I like to have many shades of red straight from a pot.

Never tried PPs paint, no store here supplies them to my knowledge. As for Vallejo/AP washes, contrary to paints, I use washes 90% of the time straight from the pot. Dropper bottles are not good with that. Exactly opposite problem that I have with Citadels paints... Tried some AP dipping stuff in big bucket once, was not to my liking. Might be that I wasnt using it properly, but I like to have control, even when washing over whole figs.

>Tried some AP dipping stuff in big bucket once, was not to my liking. Might be that I wasnt using it properly, but I like to have control, even when washing over whole figs.
Use the stuff with a brush.

Southern Ontario here, it's mostly green in the spring and summer from maybe April?, starts to turn brown in about October. It also gets brown in the summer if it's too hot and not enough rain falls, obviously

>How am I supposed to get that paint from a pot into my airbrush?

You're supposed to spill/waste a bunch and buy more paint

...

Yeah, tried that. Wastes lots of paint.

I'll just take the dropper bottles, thank you.

Then I can advise you to git gud, I had no problems with it whatsoever.

Literally how?

> suck paint out of pot
> put some in airbrush
> put the rest back into the pot

Not sure where to take it from here. I am thinking:
- another flesh wash and then highlight?
- Painting color emblems, white?
- Painting weapon slings & backpack slings black?
- Is it worth painting the ammo pouches?
- The backpacks need painting, will do the gas canisters and breadbags
- Paint a set of paints in camo
- Paint some jackets in camo

Also any tutorials for the heads? Something simple if at all possible.

Any advice on which camo to pick? What was the first camo in use after early war camo i am painting?

Currently using the Painting War issue 1 German Army.pdf from OP to great effect!

They look really good, but I'm not a huge fan of the skin. It looks like you have painted it all the lightest skin tone you have and are trying to shade down from there. I think instead you should work up from brown/your chosen darkest tone up to the skin colour you want.

>- another flesh wash and then highlight?
Start from brown, medium fleshtone, then medium fleshtone+light fleshtone
>- Painting color emblems, white?
I guess
>- Painting weapon slings & backpack slings black?
I guess
>- Is it worth painting the ammo pouches?
Since they were black, then yes.
>- The backpacks need painting, will do the gas canisters and breadbags
>- Paint a set of paints in camo
>- Paint some jackets in camo
I don't really see amy camo smocks.

Impressive Airfix Waterloo setup I found here:

airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.org/1_72_Waterloo_1815_about24719.html

wow, wonder how much time went into that already.

too much?

>the squares are hollow

that's correct.

The British formed hollow squares, these arent austrians.

great info about the pacific, thanks OP!

...

I live in Southwest ON. this is a pic from April 2015

and this is Nova Scotia, still Dfb, in July 2015

you should use google maps street view to get an idea. pick a few random places and see what its like

You mean to tell me you've never seen Waterloo, user?

If you like triads, Foundry do it better. And cheaper. And in 20ml pots.

Some people prefer having a paint range that calls out shades and highlights as a default rather than choosing everything themselves - it really helps if you're bad at colours.

True. A System like that has certainly its benefits.

This guy seems to like painting redcoats, having 25k of them:
youtube.com/watch?v=MqLoLKlbVuU

Vallejo is great, Army Painter just as good. When you get spray paints, I always advise going to a motoring place and getting auto primer (make sure you get primer and not paint) which is always the first layer that should go on bare plastic. It makes a massive difference and because its cars they're cheap and come in colours, while being pretty much exactly the same stuff in the can as for minis.

I LIKE TAMIYA PAINTS

Holy shit that's some dedication.

So, what's the /twg/ opinion on morale-based wargames?

And, yes, I know there's at least some representation of morale (and it's effects) in almost every wargame.

I'm talking about wargames in which (having or having not) sufficient morale determines Initiative, Activation, Orders (and the ability to carry them out) as well as the mundane stuff like routing & rallying ...

So far I've encountered The Perfect Captain, Two Hour Wargames, Carnage & Glory and Dark Age Infantry Slog systems with such mechanics, and neither is being talked about much.

IMHO, morale (i.e.will to fight) is the most important part of warfare - weaponry (in all it's variations) being there to provide new and interesting ways (tactics?) to 'make or break' it.

And I'm not saying that there shouldn't be massive differences between weaponry (i.e.rifles vs spears) - I'm just in favour of giving morale it's due instead of using alternative (and artificial) methods of determining it's effects.

What are some of the systems folk are using for medieval minis?

I've heard mixed things about Lion Rampant.

Dont even mention that game here kek

What size of game? There are quite a few options from skirmish up to mass battles.

I personally prefer 28mm, small ranked units would be nice

Perhaps look at SAGA for smaller battles, and Warhammer Historical or Impetus for larger stuff.

I've heard good things about Chevauchee!

>I'm just in favour of giving morale it's due instead of using alternative (and artificial) methods of determining it's effects.
This is nonsense. All methods for determining it's effects are going be artificial, because they are figures and aren't real. Most wargames try to avoid "your whole army are scared conscripts so this turn you have no control over 80% of them"

> Foundry paints

They've got some cracking names.

Under artificial I meant
"roll 2d6 & score Initiative or under (+/- modifiers) to move a unit - but if you fail, you can't move any more units"
or "roll 1d6 to see how many groups of units you can move"
kind of thing.

I'm talking about Initiative and Activation (and Orders - if used) here - which is Officer territory (so to speak) and which produces most of the Command & Control 'fun' (in Dwarf Fortress sense).

You still get to be (mostly) fully in control of your Conscripts.

tl;dr: it's the "the CO's hammered while the bombs are falling" episode.

Limited command control can be implemented without it being influenced by morale. I'd say that often orders can't be carried out because the runner dies, or a general just can't get all the orders out that he needs to in a given time period, so some units dont get any orders and end up standing around for half an hour (or longer... it did happen especially in pre-radio times)

I love games with limited command control, and morale should always be important, and is usually modeled depending on the period - most games at least include it when a unit is under duress, taking casualties etc.

In the games I design if the period had limited command control I make sure I model it, for example in this TYW ruleset you can only move a certain amount of units per turn, you draw playing cards from a deck and numbered cards allow you to move a number of units (half the value on the card), and face cards allow you to move up to 6 units and also declare charges with any or all of those units. I employed a similar set up with my Russo-Japanese land wars game, with cards being drawn that represent orders from above, or orders you can give out yourself. It works pretty well, and is a nice change from the usual "you can move all your units as if you were in complete control at all times" style of wargames.

The PDF related is also heavily focused on morale, moreso than casualties. Units will flee long before they've taken 50% casualties or more, and its rare that a unit will be completely wiped out.

In my NZwars game I did combine the limited command control with morale as militia must take morale checks to carry out orders - if they fail they waste the officers time and are unable to carry out the action - something highly accurate for the period and lack of training.

Hey, man!
Loved your WW1 Dogfight! rules - one of very few fighter sets I ever saw that had 'how many bombers & scouts got through' as a victory condition.
Kudos!

Anyone else have a problem with Vallejo paints setting like fucking plaster? I water them down and they some how manage to go on worse than Citadel paints. Hell, Citadel seems to give a better result in comparison.

Are Vallejo paints just meme paints?

Never had any issues with Vallejo as long as I properly mixed the paint by shaking the bottle before using it.

What´s the exact nature of your problem?

Cheers! Its a fun ruleset, we had a game recently. It could probably do with some tweaking and clarification but the core is solid!

Wait, what? What the hell did you do with your paints? My only problem with Vallejo is that some colours might be a tad too runny if you don't mix them enough (and enough was apparently more than I thought those few times).

The paint comes on lumpy and is a hell to use on small areas like faces. When it sets it has a texture similar to plaster.

Nothing, I just shake 'em before I use them and water them down 1:1.

I have no clue how the fuck that's happening.
Are you painting with certain extremes of heat and/or humidity?

Might want to contact customer support otherwise, since I've never heard about anything like this with Vallejo paints.

Have you got some white metal sprue from any figs? Nip a piece off and put it in the bottle as an agitator, and shake the hell out of it for several minutes. It sounds like you're getting globs of pigment and little else. When you squeeze out some does it seem like it gets stuck?

They're cool. Sometimes I just want to line up toy soldiers and move a regiment 8" and shoot by rolling a die for everyone in it and they they hit on a 5+ and the enemy roll to save and there's no morale, but sometimes not.

Lion Rampant, various bits from Two Hour Wargames, and Mighty Armies (the 2nd edition, fantasy version, although it works just fine)

>When you squeeze out some does it seem like it gets stuck?


Yeah it does, annoying as fuck when a whole bunch of it comes squirting out all of a sudden.

I'll try what you suggested. Thanks man

>white metal sprue
Is that recommended? I've seen people suggesting stainless steel ball bearings, and other people pointing out that "stainless steel" doesn't mean "won't go horribly fucked-up in a pot of paint" and posting pics of unpleasantness. At least metal used for miniatures probably won't do that.

Some sort of smooth glass bead would seem good to me, but then I'm not an expert.

White metal won't react with the paint, same as stainless steel. Plus it's free if you've got metal figs.

Pretty sure Reaper use white metal, except they have a custom skull they cast and put into their pots.

Stainless steel can be a bit dodgier though, for various reasons including cheap ebay shit and the definition of "stainless steel" - I've seen it go all rusty and shit in paint. Probably not actual rust, but something nasty.

Anyone have PDFs for Hordes of Models and Buckets of Dice?

Anyone have the PDF for Mighty Armies?

Bad batch? I've never had anything like that happen. Is there any indicator when it was manufactured? Maybe it sat on a shelf in a warehouse with poor temperature control for years. In my experience once paint gets frozen it's basically useless.

Tamiya is best man

When you have a figure with special equipment like a LMG do you base them differently or otherwise mark them to aid in identification during games or do you just rely on the figure sculpt?

I just rely on being able to look at the model.

Usually I write on the LMG "LMG" to know it's an LMG.

(No. They look different enough.)

tiny speaker built into the minuature that plays the sound byte "heavy machine gun" from metal slug every time you pick it up

rawket lawn chair

I color code them with strips on the back and then forget what the code is.

Didn't know that. I thought all squares were hollow. Gonna have to read up on that.
I have not actually. It's on my to do list

Small BMP