WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

>have one too many big nights out
>hands are all shaky for 4 days now, fine motor control is iffy
>can't paint

I think I've given myself neurological damage boys

not the greatest feeling ever

sounds more like withdrawal, mate.

apart from plastic sawdust and regular dust there won't be anything
i don't eat on my keyboard, it's gross

This is derailing the thread somewhat, but you'll find skin, hair, dust and everything that lives inside of that.
You shed. Even if you exfoliate everyday before using your keyboard Gattaca style, you'll still leave pieces of you all over the place.

Eating would just add a few crumbs now and then. The dirt is you.

Reposting my Necromunda/Inquisimunda gang.
A few more guys to go.

This is actually pretty dope user. Reminds me of a Cromwell tank in a way.

cyberpunk made me do it

putting heavy strain on the old bitz box

bashed up this deck jockey for a laugh

Finished manhunter for KD:M, maybe I will fix some highlights and shadings

Started dung beetle knight, finished resin ball, knight still very much wip

So I want to make some Necron Wraiths. Terrifying old school wraiths, but better than the old metal models that snapped in half all the damn time.

I'm just not sure what bits to invest in. The heads and tails are obvious enough. I think some converted ruststalker legs would make good spindly arms. It's recreating the torso and looming shoulders that I'm stuck on.

Any suggestions, or am I gonna have to try making them from plasticard or something similar?

You seem to have the skills... but your paint is very grainy. Is it related to your primer?

Yes, the white spray I used shat all over the minis.

Depends on what/where/how much you wanna spend.

Destroyer bodies work nice, they're bigger than regular necron bodies, their arms are bigger too plus they get the nice big spine bits. If you got destroyer torsos, spines and maybe a wraith tail you could easily make something cool looking.

Squid related.

Addition is too thick. Thin it down from left to right, then it will be better

I would want the flat side to terminate at the angle by the hatch.

Hi /wip/, I was wondering if anyone had any tutorials or links to make up some books and barrels??

I've got some d&d miniatures from reaper to customise and paint up for some friends, but I'd like to have a go at making them myself rather than making some.

puppetswar sell some look alikes.
Though to be honest I'm rather fond of the original models and I'm a firm believer in 'pinning makes things indestructible'.

Thought I was so close to finished, then I take a pic and I see so much that needs touching up...

sandwich some plastic card between some other plastic card to make the body and the covers. Use GS to add the spine and sides of the pages.

The barrel is a bit more tricky. If you got a bead the right size or some cheap putty to make the general shape out of it's just a matter of covering it with you putty of choice and carve the woodgrain. Then you add the metal rings.

I did that for a mini I sculpted from scratch once and the barrel he was resting his foot on took forever to sculpt.

I mean if you already got reaper minis you can just buy the reaper accessories. Or some renedra barrels.
I think it was Juan Diaz, who recently started his own company, Tiny Tales. You can get loads of decorative bits and dungeon furniture for very little money from his range too.

First impression is that the yelllow misses a shade between the base and the white highlights.
Painting that now after you already started the freehanding might be difficult. Maybe you can just use a brownish glaze to shade it instead to introduce more contrast to the piece.

Black parts around his head look spot on though.

You could check out Vallejo Train Color Basic Rust. (number 73001), it's an orangy red-brown, which may be exactly what you're looking for.

Yeah I was thinking the same thing. Either tone down the yellow, use less, or whatever on the highlight.

If you want to be safe, dunk the primed Rhino in some Castrol Super Clean or other preferred (but strong, use gloves!) paint stripper.

That said, primer coats tend to be very thin if they were applied correctly. I'm 90% sure you could get away with just priming over it, especially with a colour that is presumably fairly close to white.

Yo /wip/, what's a good matte/flat varnish I can brush on? I tried Vallejo's but it just ain't matte enough.

If you're in the US, brush-on Testors Dull-cote maybe?
Just googled it mind you, no actual experience, but it seems to be mentioned on a fair number of miniature forums (Dakka, Reddit, that sort of thing).

As a third opinion i think that the yellow is too dark as is. I wouldve layered it up a bit more to contrast the neutral and black colors.

Also skin seems a little flat. Like one tone. Might be the lighting/angle though

they weirdly remind me of hunters from halo since they're sorta worm looking

Maybe this isn't the place for this question, and if so I'll start a separate thread. I'm planning for an eventual D&D campaign, and I'd like to paint some miniatures for it: at least player characters, probably major villains, maybe some common foes, too (like spooky skeletons).

I know about Reaper Bones (and even picked up a couple yesterday, and they don't seem nearly as bad as their reputation). Are there any other relatively cheap, decent miniature lines on the market with about the same scale?

I'd recommend checking out Avatars of War

Hasslefree might be worth a look

The thing is Reaper probably has a miniature for everything.

More expensive 'high end' D&D minis are otherworld. Really worth it for some of the minis imo.

Another cheap option to look into is Northstar miniatures.
They do Frostgrave, which comes with several plastic kits, including one for gnolls like in your picture. Aside from Frostgrave Northstar has a really big catalog too though and is pretty cheap as well.

Copplestone castings is always worth looking into imo.

Foundry might also be useful. Mainly historical minis, but like Northstar the company just has a hugely versatile catalog. And most historical ranges work just as well for fantasy games after all. They do have some mythological creatures though and a lot of fun characters.
Age of Sail, Vikings, Early to late middle ages, Renaissance, contemporary, african natives, basically everything you might find on an adventure.
Between Northstar and Foundry you should be able to find just about any animal you could possibly need. Unless you need an Owlbear then use Otherworld and Reaper.

Thanks for the tips. It looks like I'll mostly want Reaper Bones, though. They're cheap, they seem more readily available in the U.S., and - as much as I like the heft of a metal miniature - there isn't nearly the risk of something breaking or detail getting smashed if I drop one.

I'll shill for Reaper Minis all day because I like their product. The selection can't be beat for fantasy stuff, but the sculpts can range from amazing to "holy fuck what were they thinking" and if you order online nine times out of ten they'll throw some free shit in your box.

>there isn't nearly the risk of something breaking or detail getting smashed if I drop one.
Unless you're being hamfisted with them, that's really a non-issue. The exception of course are thin, spindly pieces like bows, but I've had a few reaper metal pieces that have seen weekly use for a few years now and have not had a single problem with breakage. If anything, and I'm speaking from experience, you have to be more careful when handling/storing Bones minis after they're painted because once the paint dries and the miniature gets bent the paint will come flaking off in large chunks. I've had more issues with paint staying on the plastic Bones polymer than I ever have with metal.

I guess I hadn't looked at their metal stuff before. For the human-sized stuff, it isn't that much more expensive than Bones, and it looks like they have an even bigger selection in metal. I'll keep that in mind.

I haven't bought any of their bones stuff, but I've had a long hard look at a lot of pieces in my FLGS.
I'd say for infantry and human sized pieces in general bones isn't very good. Washed out detail and a rubber material are not really worth the few quid less you pay considering how much less quality you get.
However if you have a look at Ogre sized stuff or anything bigger, stuff that normally would belong on a 40mm base and cost you 15 or more bucks, bones becomes much more attractive.

Face and upper arms are the only skin done. Still need to do the hands. Thanks for the tips though guys, gonna go over that collar again.

nice! keep us posted on progress

work on the predator continues, next up is a wash for al the metal parts and painting veins in the marble front armour

Colourblind De/harlies/eldar guy here, do the check colours match the other colours of the bike? Cheers

The checks seem more of a green with a little bit of blue than the actual turquoise of the bike.
Not that it is a bad combination mind you...

They're green, according to the name on the pot! Kabalite Green from citadel. Not trying to match the bike, figured the green contrasts the red while the beige is a neutral tone!

Where did you learn to paint so well user?

on /wip/. I've been asking about colours the last few months on here. My painting before was garbage. I did white and blue sisters of battle before this because I could tell the colours apart but wanted to test myself and see if I could do it properly. Glad you think it's good!

My apologies then user, I misunderstood.
The colours don't clash and form a decent complement to the blue and should contrast quite strongly with the more muted red.
The beige (I thought they were white or cream to be honest) does the job of being the counterpoint to the green.

It's Rakarth Flesh for colour reference, not sure how well the picture reflects the real life colours, I'll highlight it up with Pallid Wych Flesh, the same way I did the skin on my Talos!
Thanks for the kind words

Rough wip of one of my Moon Shinobi.

Ha! I did this exact conversion

Deathwatch Watch Master - headswop with a Deathwatch Vanguard Vet.

I'm wondering how to base him, (he's on a temporary base at the moment) Does GW do any nice scenic bases anymore? (I don't think they do)

>Does GW do any nice scenic bases anymore?

That's a loaded question, user. I've heard from more than one person that their "Sector Imperialis" bases look like crap in real life.

Testors Dull-Cote, my friend.
I've used it on a bunch of models and it's worked wonderfully. Pretty much everything you could want from a clear matte coat, aka it's not shit.

I don't think they look like crap, but the production models are a little less defined and blurry than the ones you see featured in pictures. They're still nice and I think still worth the price compared to the alternatives, but if you want that crisp nice details regardless of cost (or effort to sculpt), there's other options. I'm perfectly happy with what I got.

I got myself a bottle of vallejo crackle medium. I already painted my minis with rusty base and wanted to make an effect of paint that slowly falls from old armor plates.

Unfortunately all of my tests Ive made on sprues and boxes were super failures. I painted brown base, let it dry, applied layer on medium and then later of pait that was supposed to crack. I tested it with several stages of medum: wet, almost dry and fully dried. Still no cracks. When i brushed it with paint i diluted with water it instantly went off leaving blobs of medium and paint i painted over.

Any hints?

Look at microart bases. They make them in plenty of sizes and patrerns

never used vallejo's medium.
But what creates the cracks is surface tension when the paint dries. So maybe you need to apply a thicker coat of the medium?

I have been painting the minis for my group's d&d characters. (Pic related, my progress so far)

All the figures are from Reaper - most from their Dark Haven Legends line, and one player ordered a completely custom figure from Hero Forge.

Honestly I would just go with Reaper. With all the different lines they offer, you're bound to find something close to what you want in a specific figure.

I'm personally not a fan of their Bones figures because I find they are kind of low quality and have poor detail. The metal figures from their dark haven legends line or others are almost always fantastically sculpted with lots of detail. They also often have different weapon choices.

Just as a heads up you will probably also want to order some bases to put them on because they tend to come on rather small basses that make them unstable on a tabletop.

Got a picture?

Actually I forgot, one of the minis in that collection is actually a Games Workshop model, a Harlequin Solitaire that I repurposed as a tiefling rogue.
I would not recommend purchasing GW models for d&d though because they are fucking expensive.

Stripped all my tau, because my backlog wasn't big enough.

And some flesh hounds I'm working on.
Need a second highlight on the skin, for taking pictures how many white lamps should I use? I only have one atm and it doesn't do so well.

>And some flesh hounds I'm working on.

Looks like a great start, user, but there's no need to smear vaseline on your camera lens before you take your pictures. This isn't that part of Veeky Forums.

Do you varnish your bones after painting them?

Anyone have any idea's for a White Scars Contemptor? Primed this guy last night, I scored a BaC box a few weeks ago really cheap and decided to add to my existing White Scars force.

Sorry for the blurryass photo. Working on building a display board for Armies on Parade, Need to break up the square-ness of the diggy hole my hades drill will be coming out of, but otherwise looking for opinions and such, from what can be determined, at least.

How cheap did you get it, and where from

On the note of dull coat.

Tried using a dull coat spray on this guy and it ended up giving him a really dusty finish.

Probably laid it on too thick, not sure if it's the brand (Testor's spray lacquer) or all dull coats.

Tried to rub the dustiness off with some medium and it just fucked up his face paint.

Anyone else had issues with dullcoat?

>Thumbnail:
"ZOMG Police box!"
>Full pic:
"Aww..."

Anyone have guides on scratchbuilding ruins, destroyed buildings and terrain?

Looks good so far but I have been advised against using popsickle sticks as wooden planks when making terrain. Can't remember the reasoning behind it though. Sorry user

reddit.com/r/TerrainBuilding/
youtube.com/user/TheTerrainTutor
His videos are pretty good.

I've had similar problems with mine after I paint them. If I leave them in a box/container and the models happen to be leaning on one another their paint will come off and stick to the other models. Usually it's just small pieces but it's extremely frustrating. I was spraying them with a matte finish and I don't know if that contributes to this problem.

leave

go with GW user.

...

user

...

some people did get what appeared to be a bad batch with muddy details, easy customer service call to get replaced

...

>pic related
to you

either you sprayed too much, or the conditions were wrong, was it either very hot or had recently rained?
if you give it a spray with gloss varnish that should help fix the problem but you might need to repaint that bro

Wouldn't gloss varnish make it... glossy?

respray with matte varnish again, and properly and you're set

What did you use the strip them? Did you scrub them clean?

Getting back to work on my csm. I've been behind for two years and I'm half debating stripping

I do. For Bones minis I wait about a day after painting to allow the paint to cure and completely dry. I do one coat of Testor's Dullcote on them

If you're waiting for paint or glue to dry, it's a WIP.
Everyone else, quit being lazy and go work!

I just got started on these two, how the hell do people get such smooth blends? It never looks right when I do it.

Humidity usually causes that. I can't spray prime or spray varnish anything here in Lousiana

An easier way to do those cables is winding a small wire, like 26ga or so, around a larger one, I think 22ga is the one I had, and then clipping the ends.

Used superclean, worked great minus some few paint in cracks. Ate the primer off, barely had to scrub.

>superclean
Mind if I ask your process?

Paint looks pretty good, my biggest complaint is the mold lines on the mini.

Made a rocky base for my old Assault on Black Reach Dreadnaught.