WIP- Painting/sculpting/converting General

I think I just want to make these guys look nice, because they're unpainted and neglected but I think the models themselves look cool. Maybe I'll get back into it but it's also possible the paint job will turn out shit and I'll get demotivated.

Working on a converting a chainhammer (similar to what was in the Black Crusade:Tome of Blood splatbook) for my Carcharodon deathwatch vet.
I'm thinking it might be making the hammer head too wide, but I'm not sure how to go about fixing that.
Chainblades are currently only attached with a small amount of super glue so they can snap off easily.
Thoughts and opinions?

My first Blood Drinker

Cool idea, the "best" way I can think of doin it would be if you could hollow out the hammerheads and insert the blades there so there are chain blades where the striking face would be, but maintain the shape and look on the side

i like his cloak and goldy bits. what color did you use for the cloth?

So, I just started painting and I'm making sure to thin my paints, but I think I might be overdoing it. I've watched several YT videos and read various forum posts on the subject, but it still takes me 3-4 coats to get a uniform coverage of black. Is that normal?

When I try to use less water I end up with bulges of dried paint.

Is there a general rule you guys follow?

i usually do about 3 coats before i move onto another color.
generally, using a #1 size brush, i take 3 drops of paint and 1-2 drops of water, mix and play with that combination till on my fingernail i get a uniform line that isn also decently thin so that the details of my nail is fairly visible
someone else may be able to explain the fingernail better. heres a duncan video as well
youtube.com/watch?v=M7vMyAk6Lf0&list=PLEaPE4sLDA7sNLQTkuFBH71w4sbDeoy6t&index=2

So, in general, all things being equal, the thinner your coats the better. Ten ultra thin coats is better than five super thin coats, which is better than three thin coats, which is better than one thick coat. People doing competition painting will be doing 15+ absurdly thin coats for their basecoat, slowly building up to this extremely smooth candy finish.

In practice, however, the return on investment in terms of time drops off really hard past 3-4 coats. And so, honestly, 3-4 coats is what I go for. You could get very slight improvement by thinning further and taking literally twice as long to do your basecoat, but in practice 3-4 coats is a good happy medium.

The most important thing with overdoing thinness is in not overloading your brush. If your paints are running everywhere when you apply it then the problem isn't how thin the paint is, it's having too much paint on the brush. The thinner the paint, the less of it you want on your brush.

Where do we get Johnnys from? I can't find them on ebay.

His official name is "Brother Craig".

Do people even recast stuff that old?

>Dont clean moldlines
>Dont fill gaps
>Paint to a higher than average degree
>Post revealing hd pic of models
>Nobody notices or mentions it because of the really good paintjob
Feels good

Metal recasters
They do exist, I know one. He's older than dirt and is going to die of diabetes soon but he does it.

Basing;
I'd like to keep a uniform scheme, but im also terrified of being locked into a single style. what do?

White then washed with nightshade

I have a bad habit of getting paint up at the very top of the bristles. this of course is ruining my tip and the soap isnt doing it to get all the paint out. would paint thinner be acceptable to get that crusty old paint out

Choose a varied sort of terrain? Some place that would offer a lot of options while still looking uniform when viewed as a whole?

City ruins are often good for that. You can have bits of statue, sections of paved road, cobbled streets, chunks of buildings, loose metal, lengths of razor wire... whole bunch of options.

What's a good fairly simple basing scheme? Playing storm cast eternals and want to do something a bit better than dry brushed astrgranite.

Got some traitor Imperial Guard (Tzeentch worshipers) that need a good fluffing. Anybody wanna help me out? Psykana detachment with a whole lotta infantry/heavy weapons backing them up with 3 Knight Titans. 1 lancer, and then 2 with interchangeable weapons but for simplicity's sake let's say they're a Paladin and an Errant.

Gold models should be primed white if you want the brightest gold possible, right?

I really want to try to get my Sanguinary Guard painted up in celebration of the new BA supplement.

Rhino is bigger than a baneblade?
Well that's interesting.

I feel like a 3m scale is still too big for SM's.
2.4ish seems more right.

Painting gold onto white is good, but painting gold onto brown is better. Gold is basically just shiny brown, after all. When painting gold on white you run the risk of it looking a little thin and weak, but gold on brown has great coverage and lustre.

What's the best guide to assembly/production line painting?

Innest-to-outest; Darkest-to-lightest?

What sort of models are you using? Cadians? Catachans? Chaos Marauders w/ IG bits?

That'll do wonders informing the type of fluff to give 'em.

A mix of Cadians and Catachans. I want them to have the same color scheme but I didn't want them looking too uniform since they're pretty far gone. I mean still perfectly functional as soldiers, but just took a dive into the deep end of Chaos.
It's a budding idea in my head so I'm still working on conversion ideas, but I was thinking of marking out officers, sergeants, and other important dudes with some outlandish Tzeentch stuff, maybe odd tints to skin color, mutations here and there, Harlequin masks, that sort of thing.
That's for the Guardsmen.
I'm thinking of using pic related for the psykers. There are no GW stores near me so I don't ever have to worry about getting kicked out of one for trying to use Privateer Press minis in there store. I'll chop off their hands and use staves and other such weapons/proper chaos stuff. No idea what sort of Chaos stuff to do for the Commissar in their detachment. I've never even heard of a Chaos Commissar.

As for the Knights, feathers out the ass. Lots and lots of feathers. I was thinking on my Lancer I might take a couple of his armor panels and sculpt eyes all over it.

>there
I meant their. I hate fucking that up. Here's a cool Tzeentch marine.

What about priming gold?

when going through my stuff I found my Guard from forever ago that's not finished. I want to share 4 things I found one done and the other 3 are WIP.

First is the Plasma Russ. It has all the plasma and a Lascannon, so I felt it needed a larger back end to hold a bigger reactor and feed all the power it needs.

Next I took a Valk and added working fans it looks kinda cool and runs off a 9v battery.

These next two are not done one is a tank killer design that is low to the ground. All the guns still move so that's neat.

And last is a Morter design. I really like how the gun looks on this. Plus it's a ball joint so it has a lot of movement.

Alright, brown it will be then. I assume I should go for the lighter shades of brown rather than the darker ones?

I usually use a spray can to basecoat my guys, so should I go with the Mournfang Brown one rather than the Rhinox Hide?

Are these sprays both primer and basecoat, or do I need to prime first, then spray them brown, then spray them gold or I am okay to just spray them brown and then spray them gold?

Good effort on those conversions. They look pretty intensive.

Cool!

Just finished assembling my last veteran. 1760pts of this junk. Time to get painting i guess.

So is anyone willing to share watchers in death?

You're okay to just prime brown or black then spray them gold. If you were brushing on a gold base I would suggest a brown or black primer. You don't really need anything else if you're spraying a base layer on other than primer.

Just finished this

9.9/10

Loses the fraction because top mounted missiles look dumb

I want to make hanging vines and Moss on my tanks main gun, but I don't know what to use, can anyone help?

Thanks I should probably get the new codex and maybe play some games.

Not to sure the algae/moss works, but he looks bitching.

Reminds me of the Colossus of Rhodes in a way, and the paint job definitely screams " brass statue standing watch over a port city so long its almost nothing but verdigris"

On another note, how common is Mark 4 armor in a Second Founding chapter? I have about a battle company's worth of marines, and while about 70 of them are the standard Mark 6 and 7, a little over 30 of them have Mark 4.

Is this out of the ordinary for a non-veteran Company of the chapter?

Also, whats the best way to get chainaxes and chainbayonets for loyalists? I want a ton of them in my army. The chain axes from Forge World seem like and absolute pain to work with and I'm not sure I have enough money to buy berserker chain axe bitz in bulk on ebay.

Anyone know any good third party chainaxes in a similar style to pic related?

Statue of Liberty's husband?

It depends. Gloss Black could work for reflectiveness (and is standard for specialized metallic paints such as Alclad), but a red-brown probably results in the richest gold colour.

green stuff for the big ones and the kind of webbing/netting you get oranges and other fruit in for creepers

love the quality and hope you'll have the motivation to keep it up through your whole project. Better fix that eye-lense though, that's all I can add.

Ooh, Seconded on the chainaxes.
Trying to mod my Sigmarines to be chaosy.

c-can it fly?

>make a quadcopter out of 40k parts
>program it to make legal moves in the game itself
>have a flying unit that doesn't need a base
I believe in you /WIP/. You can make this happen.

is there any consumer-grade inertial navigation hardware on the market that's accurate enough to program it in inches?

Just get it to hover and then push it.
Although the downdraft would probably knock over everyone's minis.

Looks awesome.

Shouldn't the sword and the whole shield and the other spots without green tint oxidize just like the rest of the statue? I guess you wanted to have some contrast and i think it looks better the way you did it, but the other way would be more realistic i think.

anvilindustry.co.uk/Close-Combat-Weapons/Wargaming-Chain-Axes

And honestly,you don't have to give much of a shot about the armor Marks.
Unless you end up playing against a super sperg, no one will give a shit.

kromlech has a set of chainaxes but finding a bulk lot of zerker chainaxes might be cheaper than you think

personally i would go out and get some roots from plants, gently clean them off, press them in a book to flatten them out into the shape you want. see if you like the natural shape and formation of the roots, then spray paint it green

/wip/ I need some help adding some fancy detail to my BA commander's stormraven
Any suggestions?

show us a pic maybe?

its a stormraven with the chapterhouse mod on it, there is nothing to show, I was asking for suggestions because I have no experience with vehicle modding

Can you share your list?

Testing out a forstbite-like colour scheme for my Nurgle Beastmen. It'll be this, a less blue version of this, or a pinky/red mange inspired look. Watcha think?

Haha no but that would be the dream. They are 12v case fans by running them off a 9v you get a nice spin bit very little wind that would blow over models. Plus sticking your finger in the blades does not hurt eather.

In other news other then eBay are there any sites that sell bits. I am not looking for anything right now just wondering.

looks neat.
Thumbs up for beastmen and non-green nurgle minis from me.

Proper frostbite is black so maybe add some to extremities. Might be pretty hard to see because of the black base.

so, is this workable or not?

Theres bitzbox and I guess any other iteration of the word bitz

Ok let me try a second time.

What sites have you people bought bits from and it was over all a positive experience. Prices were good items shipped fast shipping cost was not garbage. They did not take your money and laugh there way to Russia.

Where are you user. That lets us decide to link UK or US sites.

Ohh good point. I am in Canada. So US sites are probably best.

I ordered from:

The bitz barn (they used to have a website, now they seem to trade over facebook)

and

bitzstore dot com (they sit in france)

and

bitzbox dot co dot uk

I can recommend all 3 of them.

Thanks, trying desperately to steer clear of any greens.

I did consider this, but I went for a more cartoony vibe in the end. Wasn't sure wether it would translate too well on a miniature, might try it with the next test model.

Know them feels

Show me. I'm curious.

so /wip/ I have a problem.
I'm not sure why but I always have to put 20+ coats of paint on something before it looks like a complete coat. I'm really not sure if I'm thinning too much or if it's the quality of my brush but I've tried under-thinning and I pretty much get the same result. Every video I watch, the guy painting puts 1-2 coats over his primer and gets a perfect flat colour instead of still seeing some primer underneath.

What paint are you using?

Pic related from some three Wip's ago.

Alot of different ones.
So far it's Incubi Darkness and Stegadon Scale green base paints.
I've nearly given up brushing on my base-coats but my airbrush is pretty cheap and trashy.

how stiff are your brushes?

They're cheap synthetic but I keep them well conditioned so they're pretty soft. Have ordered some good sable ones and will see if that makes a difference.

and how much are you thinning your paints? Citadel should have more than enough pigment for a good amount of thinning, especially their Base line of paints. Are you going over white or black primer? Are you seeing lines sort of scratched in the layer as you paint, or you just aren't having good coverage and can still see the base color through the layer after it dries?

Yeah something is going incredibly wrong if it's taking you 20 coats.

The paint isn't watery or runny and it seems fine when I get it on my skin or palette. I may be overthinning, everyone says consistence of milk but I try to go a little thicker. I can vaguely see brush strokes in the paint but they disappear when dried, the base colour is still visible when the paint dries and it takes a few coats before the primer begins to disappear.

Using black primer

Milky is usually good for airbrushing, but I would go less thin for actual brushwork.

>revealing
>hd

Mate I can barely tell what the quality of the paintjob is like that pic's so blurry.

Not really a list. More like all muh dudes added up to see how much I have total

Can totally spot the mould-lines though.

Yeah milk is bad. You want the consistency of paint.

Isn't it better to change your habits?

what are you using for primer?

Be honest guys, how bad is the highlighting?