/wipg/ WIP in Progress - Painting, Conversion, Sculpting, Duncan Rhodes General

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Quick question.

Will a "tabletop quality" paintjob ruin the resale of my Warmachine miniatures if I decide to sell later?

As opposed to "Paid commission" quality.

Basically I'm wondering if I should hold off on painting them.

Most people want to buy either pro-painted or not at all. It's just work to strip something that doesn't look A++

Isn't war machine mostly metal?

removing paint from plastic is easy, but removing from metal is even easier.

I've heard of people who will buy "pro painted" and then try to salvage to model to tabletop quality

any kind of painting (even putting the model together) hurts re-sell.

please tell me you aren't painting it with the cloak attached

>Even if you use them with a regular brush.
Better off painting them black and adding a white dot on both sides of the iris (or on one side if looking to the side). Easier than doing a black dot over white, imo.

Also, small brushes do dry before you get there. So you want a standard-sized brush that's new enough to have a fine point.

>painting them black and adding a white dot on both sides of the iris (or on one side if looking to the side). Easier than doing a black dot over white
Actually what the masterclass suggested but I might try a bigger brush, or some retardant.

I find its better to do no eyes than to do eyes poorly. You can barely tell anyways. Or do what I do and play Salamanders so all your guys have glowing red eyes.

>People complain if I play w/ unpainted models now
>People complain that I painted the models later

Fuck this gay hobby

Warmachine is mostly metal stuff right?
Or has that changed?

If its metal the paintjob won't matter.

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just paint he models now, but strip the models before you sell them

>finally after half of an hour of googling I found this:

youtube.com/watch?v=6kAKWgDFcXI

Hope it helps fellow ork players : a really nice step by step tutorial for meganobz conversion.

This. If you're not painting the models so you can sell them, then why have them in the first place? Metal is so easy to strip.

>Just cremate your own child
>It's cheaper

please don't

they're big enough that any missed parts will stand out hardcore

No worries man, it's easily removeable.

Why are you buying models and then reselling them so often anyways? I don't mind buying painted models, especially if I can get them cheap. I just recently bought an AoBR dread for 13 bucks that looked like it had been primed black and partially painted blue. In reality it had been primed, painted, primed, and painted again. It was a bit of a project, but I managed to salvage it.

>not having helmets
why do people choose the butt ugly exposed heads on models? Seriously it looks stupid as hell and helmets look 1000x better. Also helmets are practical.

I like the head option, but I like the helmets more. Don't worry, he only lacks his helmet because in a squad of 10 I want my Shield-Captain to stand out.

Only units without helmets in my army are my space marine scouts.

>not giving the leader the most impressive hat
would not follow into battle/10

Do you find this satisfactory?

much better

Hm, quite. I'd also put a led on it, if it was an actual model.

You should only be getting attached to a painted model if you're a skilled artist. Otherwise it's like caring about a rat fetus.

If you're only treating them as gaming tokens you believe you'll sell later, then just netlist and get those models, since you're obviously no in the game for the hobby aspect, so you don't care about what the models look like.

Doing some basic basing this morning, any tips for getting more creative with infanty bases?

Infantry*

Would this bit make sense for conversion? This is a part of vanquisher cannon, I want to turn it into killakan grotzooka.

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My first attempt at a few Alpha Legion marines. I'm not too happy with how the base turned out though. It's Valhallan Blizzard over the older snow texture. Any suggestions?

I don't know why that uploaded sideways.

Waste of a boomgun or killkannon if you ask me.

I quite like it honestly. Looks like properly churned snow after a lot of marching and frantic maneuvers.

Alan Davies looks like the like the master of those Tyranids, surveying their advance.

That's a truly terrifying thought.

My advice is use snow sparingly, in smatterings on a base,

Yours doesn't look bad really

Finally getting some work done on my Khador army. Im going to do the other half of the dragoon next then work on fenris. Im trying to make the base look like a steppe or tundra or something. How does it look?

You are supposed to do the eyes first, before you do the face.

Has anyone tried this scheme on vehicles? I'm wondering whether glazes work well on flat surfaces.

Oh man, why do people do this to their models. I bought a chaos army off a guy quitting whfb when AoS came out and it was in hideous shape.

Some of the chaos warriors were primed black, painted red, primed white, painted blue etc. Some had been literally painted with liquid greenstuff (pic related).

But the general of the army, whoa nelly, there was a paintjob that would have made Duncan throw minis.

Heres the chaos lord on foot... I do not know how you can pour this much paint on a single mini, but it had been primed, first white, then black, then painted almost completely green, then primed black, painted completely red, partially primed again and then had the gold, bone and other colours haphazardly slapped on top in thick globs.

It took me about two weeks worth of soap baths, nail polish remover and furious brushing to get this army cleaned up. But hey, at least it was cheap af.

I've got this thing, if you want it.

i fucked around with all those shitty glittery GW standard golds for ages and never found anything i liked, then i got that expensive high-pigment one they brought out for AoS- Retributor armour. it's a base coat, and one layer gives me a nice gold. pic related, the hook done with retributor.

What's that thing called when you have the model in sub-assemblies on pins so you can paint before finishing gluing it together?
BoP is my first box of minis

Really looks way too blue to me, Alpha Legion need those sexy green tones in the highlights.

how bout this one?

This is the method I used for the ones I posted further up. I think it turned out quite well.

What thing do you mean?

A piece of wood with some bluetack on it so you can stick your parts on for painting?

I like their new painting guide from the BoP guide.
That result looks way better than the metallic Forgeworld style. On the other hand i think MK 3 armor looks like shit for AL. Personal preference i guess.

I guess it's a good thing warmachine isn't known for well painted miniatures. Yours will fit right in with the unpainted or primed shit looking models.

I'm not the guy you replied to but you could at least try to be constructive with your criticism instead of just saying 'i dont like it'

Wow! Cool, thanks for the constructive criticism and input. Because of you I will be able to improve in the future.

KYS

Another user here. I think they look good, but the light doesn't help.

Okay, so you go buy some plasticard from a hobby shop. Anyplace that sells models or train stuff. They usually have a rack of different shapes and thicknesses, you can browse and get a sense of what you need. I would advise getting a pack of plain sheets with multiple thicknesses, and a pack of assorted tubes/rods. They should be less than $5 each.

Generally you can cut plasticard like paper or cardboard. You'll want an x-acto type knife and a metal straightedge. The same glue for your minis will work with the card. You can pretty much just start cutting and playing with different shapes.

A couple tricks...

Orky rivets. Take one of those slender rods, and use your craft knife to cut tiny discs off the end. Press the blade down with your fingertip to keep the bits from flying off into space when they cut. To glue them on, I put a drop or so of superglue on a scrap of paper. Then pick up a "rivet" by poking it lightly with the tip of the x-acto knife, and dab it lightly on the bead of glue. Then just poke it into place.

Hydraulic piston gubbins are easy to make by nesting a pice of rod inside a larger tube.

Thanks for the tips dude. Have you tried bending it? Do you need to heat it up before it is capable of bending, or bending it is out of question?

I know, I need to make a lightbox. Ive been putting off starting (these are some of my first dudes) but today I finally got started. Ill see if I cant take a better picture.

Right, I'm trying to do this tissue paper cape thing I got linked yesterday and I thought it'd work but the superglue/tissue is not adhering to the packing tape. I'm clumsy, so I went through 2 tissues just trying to position it, so I'm not going to risk supergluing a bunch tissue on my models while I attempt this.

Why isn't it sticking? Why does it stick for everyone but me?

It has some bend to it. Thin sheets will bend like paper. Rods and tubes have to be heated to bend. Just a second or two with a lighter will soften it enough to bend under its own weight.
Insulated electical wire is often easier to use for creating tiny hoses or conduits.

Am I a bad painter WIP? I feel like this could be way better considering some of the stuff I've seen on here.

Alright, last question: is it harder to paint then official GW models?

Alan Davies confirmed as swarm lord

well no, not to paint, but standard plasticard is lacking in all the detail that a GW model has, so if you want it to actually look like something you're going to have to carve the scratches, chain links, bolts etc that you'd expect to see on a model equivalent

Genestealer Cult coming through!

First stages of weathering on the Goliath.

Fair enough. Does not seem that hard with orks in theory, just add chips and rivets everywhere)

Thanks for answering my questions.

Its pretty sloppy, but if you are just starting that is to be expected. Take your time and use thin layers so that it is easier to fix mistakes as you go.

the hard part is in being creative enough. i ended up scrapping my attempts at doing up my orks

Tyranids are organic in every aspect smooth skin and carpace with lots of natural patterns and shapes (very few straight lines). Orks are very material using lots of metal and "man" made materials. Lots of straight edges and contrast. Tyranid bits look better as trophies or scenery. Same deal with Eldar. They are smooth and elegant, to counter it you need to use small quantities, maybe one feature part and then make the rest propah orky. Ork conversions are the best though so don't feel disheartened, just take some perspective and keep trying.

Best part about orky conversions is that you don't need to follow any rule. You need to think like a Mek. "I'll bolt some shit on here! and then stick this pipe out of there! Fuck yeah, gubbins!

I think they are not bad, but you could take the red up a notch and highlight it with something stronger.
Right now it lacks definition and seems very uniform. Up the contrast a little and these should look much better.

Like the bases btw.

>Fuck yeah, gubbins!
Sounds like a proper Deathskull clan member warcry!)

Yeah exactly. Kinda adds to my point, you need lots of random stuff to make it crazy and all bolted together.

I'd love to make an ork kill team after I've done my necrons. Dunno how viable killakans are or if they're even legal. (Are they even called killakans anymore?)

I did basecoat in Khorn Red, highlighted in Mephistion red, and did some shading that doesn't show well in the picture in Screamer Pink. Should I use Evil Sunz Scarlet or an orange for then next highlight?

They seriously need subtle orange edge highlights on the red for starters. Do that, then come back with a better picture.

Have been trying to get the tissue cape right for the past hour. Can't do it. Didn't even get to the PVA part. The tissue won't stick to the tape with superglue. It's also too absorbent to even stick to the MODEL directly with superglue! I give up on this shit, fuck capes.

They are legal in HoR Killteam, and they should be legal in vanilla KT (11 armour on front and sides, 10 on the rear, 2 hull points, 50 pts).

Orks are amazing because almost anything can work for their models and vehicles. I was working with wall plugs yesterday, then I thought to myself "hm, if you cut them and stick some gubbinz on them they'd look like powercells for orky energy weapons/generators". I've seen someone here making orky artillery from garden hose parts.

It's not terrible, it just need another 900 steps to get there. What's with the hair though, did you drybrush it?

The claws are actually made out of metals though, and the carapace armor they have is also made out of reinforced bone. Some of the books describe marines disassembling nids, I think in the horus rising trilogy Lucius the Eternal even uses a claw as an improvised weapon.

You're making me want to spend money! Post wallplug conversions!

I tried to, yes. I'm kinda still just starting.

NMM its hard, first time trying this technique, wish me luck

Yeeaaaah, I'd avoid drybrushing. The rest looks good but the hair is a mess. You can fix it with a thinned black wash and some grey glazing to create proper shadows.

Well, I obviously can't post any wallplug conversions, but since user never dissapoints I'll post whacky orktillery conversions I've seen here.

looks alright so far

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Very cool indeed.

To clarify, hair *and* beard, or just hair? And how do you thin a shade, water right into the pot?

Both.

Use a palette, mix some water into your wash and go over most of it, maybe leave a little bit of the bright grey unwashed where you want the highlights to go.